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This report is about the tour: Ghost Valley 🗓 September 5, 2008
Almost a month has passed since I returned from Crimea, where I went on a 6-day hike called “Water and Stones”. Looking at the photographs for the 10th time and remembering the trip, I thought, why not write about it.
So, I’ll dwell a little on how I got into this hike. Once, on an unremarkable working day in June, during lunch we got into a conversation with a colleague about the topic of vacation, from which I learned that the colleague was going on a 6-day hike in the mountainous Crimea in August, that he had found a suitable site and was choosing which hike to go on.
My reaction was immediate: “AND I WANT!” I immediately asked for a link to the site and literally fell in love with this site. I read everything, what hikes are offered, what happens, reviews. I was most interested in the “Water and Stones” hike and seeing that the next one would be in 2 weeks, the thought immediately arose whether I should go in 2 weeks and not go on vacation. The thought that it wouldn’t be dangerous via the Internet, without knowing the people or who leads these hikes, did not even arise, firstly, I read that registration is carried out with the rescue service, secondly, no prepayments were required at the end of the hike, and thirdly, well, scammers don’t go to the mountains:-) this is not their business.
And in the Crimea, in the mountains, I was three times before this trip, but in one-day trips, twice we conquered Ai-Petri from the Alupka side and once, from the Foros side, along the damn stairs to the Baydar Gate. But all this was 8-10 years ago, and I wanted new sensations.
Preparing for the hike.
I went to get tickets, but it turned out that there was no reserved seat or compartment for the date I needed on the Donetsk-Sevastopol train, there was only one on the Lugansk-Simferopol (going through Donetsk), but it arrived in Simferopol at 12:35, and on the website I read that the group usually meets at 10-11. I decided to take a reserved seat on the Lugansk train and SV (with the hope of later returning it) on the Sevastopol train.
The most necessary purchase I made before the hike was the poncho (for those who don’t know, this is a cape that covers both you and the backpack). As it turned out, later, our hike could still be called “Not a day without rain!” But more on that a little later. So, the cherished date has come, things have been collected, a backpack containing a sleeping bag, a tent, things, a poncho, a bowl, a mug, a spoon, a knife, along with a 2 liter bottle of water, my mother, who was very worried that her daughter would overstrain herself, weighed - 10 kg!
And now the train is carrying me to Crimea, on vacation. I’ll dwell a little on what I took with me and what I would correct in the list that Kirill has on his website:-) be sure to take soap and a sponge, as it turned out, out of the whole group, only I had soap, for example Camey;-). (in addition to the method described on the website, washing dishes using grass and toilet paper is excellent with ordinary soap and a sponge, plus you can wash things in the parking lots while camping). Be sure to take both a bowl and a mug, because during breakfasts and dinners, “whoever gets up first gets the porridge,” so as not to run with a mug (which fits less than a bowl) for porridge twice, but the supplement may not be enough.:-)
Take spare pants from your belongings. I took shorts, bicycle shorts and sweatpants, because if it’s raining, then in the evening in the parking lot, in order not to catch pneumonia, you need to change into dry clothes. I took 3 T-shirts, I had 2 spare ones, take a sweater, take windbreaker jackets, because the rain and wind in the mountains sometimes knocks you off your feet, not to mention the fact that it blows through everything.
Be sure to take capes or ponchos. And also take the “boot pads” - an awesome thing, our group was different from the others in that we all had them (we bought them before the hike in Simferopol for 15 UAH). And also take trekking poles. I am incredibly grateful to instructor Andrey for giving me his. Without them it’s just a pipe, especially on the descents.
The first day or the beginning of the hike.
The train arrived in Simferopol without delay - at 5:29 and until 10 I still had a lot of time before the meeting, having handed over my backpack to the storage room, I went to wander around Simferopol and have breakfast. By the indicated time, I was near the storage room, where people began to approach. As it turned out, 3 groups were walking along the same route, each with their own instructor. At the last moment everything was changed, including the instructors. A couple of days before the hike, Kirill wrote that Anya would be the guide, and sent her photo; later Andrey was the guide, and Anya led a group of Odessa residents.
And now the first peak has been conquered. The lower plateau of Mount Chatyr-Dag. Along the way we collected thyme and lemongrass to make excellent tea in the evening. Then a strong wind began, but fortunately there was no rain. Having made a stop for lunch near a spring and snacked on bread, sausage, cheese, bananas, dates, a can of pate and a can of bulls (we had such lunches every day), no one died of hunger:-), we set off along the plateau to the Emine-Bair-Khosar cave.
After the cave we went to our first stop under the arches of a huge grotto. Here is the first fire, getting to know each other. Two guys were sent to a nearby cave to fetch water. I will say that they gained a lot of impressions, the whole trip they remembered this outing, but, alas, they returned without water (they said it was slush, dirt), but there was no clean water. On this day, the conversation didn’t really go well, the people seemed shy, so, after wishing everyone good night, we went to our tents to sleep.
Second day, conquering Eklizi-Burun or swimming in the rain and hail.
It began to rain, at some point it came with hail and a piercing wind. I quickly took out capes and ponchos, and for the guys who didn’t have capes, I got the top part of my tent (less dragging:-)), we moved on. Poor guys who had to walk like a horse under this cape:-) but getting wet to the skin under hail and piercing wind is even worse. In general, I will say that the rain did not stop until the very top; it is not without reason that they say that Chatyr-Dag attracts rain, and Demerdzhi attracts sun. Looking ahead, it rained both here and there:-). As a result, we didn’t notice the most dangerous sections of the path (walking next to a cliff), because in such weather you only look ahead of yourself and see only the sneakers of the comrade in front:-).
Then we walked along the plateau, seeing strange objects around us and glancing cautiously at the passing clouds. Stop, lunch and hit the road again. Just starting the descent into the beech forest, the rain poured down with renewed vigor. And descending at 30-45 degrees on wet grass is still a thrill:-). I fell 3 times during this descent, driving part of the way on my side:-). This is where trekking poles came in handy. Our poor instructor, who ran first without poles, at the end of his run turned into a somersault over himself and a skinned knee.
Here we are in a beech forest, resting under a huge beech tree that protected us from the rain, healing our wounds (I’ll say that everything came in handy during the hike:-) iodine, brilliant green, plaster, calendula, bandages, cotton wool, and coldrex) and hit the road again. Having gone down a little more, we found ourselves in a stunning clearing, where there was a spring, and where we were to spend the night that night. The route that we had to cover from 10 am to 6 pm, we ran from 10 am to 2 pm. In the clearing we were met by cows, which the instructor was chasing with trekking poles:-). Cows are good, if only I didn’t have to throw stones at them later (those who know German will understand me, and those who don’t will guess what I mean:-)).
We dried ourselves, cooked food, and enjoyed the surrounding landscape. Having made a couple of calls to family and friends so that they wouldn’t worry about where I had gone (before that, mobile phones were only taken near the Emine-Bair-Khosar cave), leaving the guys to play cards, Yana and I went to wander through the forest, found mushrooms - porcini, boletus. Having brought them to the camp, taking photographs, we, since there were no experts in mushrooms among us, ended up giving them to Odessa residents from another group who had a frying pan (we only made do with a pot). But they didn’t even treat us:-(, only saying that the mushrooms were amazing. That day we burned a fire for a long time, talked. The people had already become more talkative, became friends. It was great. At that moment I finally realized that I was on vacation and, work, problems were all forgotten. We went to bed after 12, despite the fact that the most difficult day lay ahead of us, but more on that in the next chapter.
Third day of the hike. Valley of Ghosts, conquering Demerdzhi or testing a person's endurance.
And then, finally, we saw the SEA - it was so far and so close at the same time, the mood was wonderful. We moved to the foot of Demerdzhi, here in front of us are lavender fields, and here is a field of tea roses. Having collected a whole bag of rose petals, we then drank tea with tea rose until the end of the hike. Good stuff:-). Making our way through bushes and trees, we scratched all of our legs (I’ll say right away that by the end of the hike I had no living space on my right leg - everything was scratched) a couple of hours later we arrived at the foot of Demerdzhi.
It seemed so huge and it seemed like we would soon be at the very top. Further the path lay past the Funa fortress (one name is fair). We didn’t go to the fortress, since there wasn’t much to see there other than the fence. After stopping for lunch and collecting water from the spring, we approached the entrance to the Valley of Ghosts. Entrance to the valley is paid - 6 UAH. But somehow we didn’t see any tourists there. Either the people were afraid of the clouds or it was not the season yet.
The views are indescribable. The main thing is to use your imagination and each rock will appear before you in different forms. Cat, Catherine's head, etc. In 2 places Andrey took off my backpack and carried it himself. For which I was very grateful to him. We had to climb not only along the embankment, but also over rocks. Here I really regretted that I was naturally short with short legs:-).
At the next stop, my companions thought the load was not enough, they decided to conquer an additional stone, and they all climbed there:-). All I had to do was film everything that was happening.
And now the peak has been conquered! The guys climbed up earlier, I was a little behind, but I got there. After waiting for me, Igor asked: “Well, let’s go to the top to hang a flag.” At that moment I felt a new surge of strength and said “Yes, let's go!” While we reached the very top, and the guys climbed with the flag, strong wind and rain began. Therefore, alas, it was impossible to hang the flag (it was held in the hands of spruce trees). After taking pictures, we went to the Angarsk Pass - the Dzhurlu parking lot.
While Andrei ran to call (and to call, he had to climb the plateau again). Sergei remembered that he grabbed 2 cans of condensed milk from home and we, without waiting for the instructor, kept the fire going with one spoon, passing it around, and devoured a can of condensed milk. It seemed so blissful at the time. The soles hurt so much that standing was painful, let alone walking, the wind was blowing so hard that it was impossible to stay warm in 2 pants, a T-shirt, a sweater and a jacket, and then there was condensed milk! I forgot everything that something hurt, ached, that it was very cold.:-) Andrey later remembered this condensed milk for a long time, that they didn’t wait for him:-). In the future, we did not do this, and he also participated in eating 2 more cans in the following days:-) Having cooked dinner and drank a pot of tea, despite the fatigue from the day, we did not go to our tents for a long time. We talked for a long time and at that moment we realized how lucky we are to have such a friendly company.
The fourth day or how we descended through the Khapkhal gorge to the Jur-Jur waterfall.
If 2 groups to Jur-Jur decided to walk through the forest along the river, “up-down-up-down,” then our instructor said that we would go the other way, along the Demerdzhi plateau, and then go down 600 meters. It was pleasant to walk on board, my legs were rested, I could walk in sandals. The sun was hot, despite the fact that we had put sunscreen on everything, the guys got sunburnt.
And at the very end of the path, another test was prepared, on the way there was a huge stone that could not be bypassed, it was necessary, like rock climbers, clinging to everything possible, to climb this stone, when I climbed and after that I looked down and saw a roaring stream of water, honestly, I became scared. Subsequently, I recalled this moment to Andrey more than once, asking if he was not afraid for people’s lives, because it is very dangerous to crawl over a rock with a 10-15 kg backpack on your back. But he assured me that since there were places where you could put your feet, it wasn’t so scary. But somehow he didn’t really convince me of this. And here in front of us is the bath of youth, from where the water is drawn. We didn’t go to the waterfall that day, but went to look for a parking lot. On the way we met security who demanded 12 UAH from us. for parking, giving us tickets with 6 UAH written on them. (such a mysterious country is Ukraine, and business is Ukrainian) but I didn’t want to argue with them. Therefore, we left it to chance and gave them as much as they wanted.
Day five, swimming in Jur-Jura, 18 km trek along the Karabi plateau.
After breakfast, the girls and I decided that we were going to the djur-djur to swim and wash our hair, the second Andrey (this is to film) and Sergey went with us. We reached the waterfall and, going right inside the waterfall, took a photo, and then Sergey and Yana took soap and began to lather their hair. When Sergei soaped his hair, out of nowhere, security appeared with a sign that swimming is prohibited, water is being taken away, they jumped up to Sergei screaming, what are you doing, are you washing your hair? Fine 1000 UAH. To which Sergei calmly replied, “No, I’m not doing anything.” They said, “Why are you covered in soap,” to which he replied, “I don’t wash my hair, just in soap.” We darted from this waterfall, and they reached their heads above the dzhur-dzhur:-). We knew for sure that water intake occurs higher up (in the youth bath).
As soon as we reached the lake, it began to rain, and everyone urgently had to hide in a cape from my tent. And then we remembered that we still have a can of condensed milk (!) The fatigue disappeared. Can you imagine the picture - 8 people, under one cape, open a can of condensed milk and pass it around in a circle, begin to burst it, and the rain pours around. However, here are the photos where everything is documented:-)
Sixth day. End of the hike.
The next day, millet - the only grain that remained - was cooked, but, alas, not eaten (somehow this grain did not go well in our group) and Andrei said that he would tell Kirill to remove it from the menu. I wanted civilization faster. The guys wanted meat, someone dreamed of borscht, it was felt that the campaign was coming to an end. Having calculated all our finances, reconciled debits with credits and collected our backpacks, we went to the people in Rybachye, past the vineyards.
Oh, it’s a pity, it was only the beginning of July, not September, then we could have enjoyed the grapes. After 2 hours we were already in Rybachye. Having found a dining room near the sea, we ordered lunch from the first, second and third, and enjoyed civilized food. The dining room overlooked the sea, but you know, we didn’t want to drop everything and run to swim in the sea, maybe because we saw a huge number of people (there was nowhere for an apple to fall) and during this time we had become unaccustomed to such crowds of people. It was both sad and funny at the same time. It's sad that parting is near. And during this time we truly became friends. And it’s fun to be proud of yourself that you could, you did it. Believe me, these feelings are special. And only those who go through this can understand them. It's worth it.
This is how the trip turned out. We must say Goodbye to the Crimean Mountains! Until our next meeting, God willing, we will meet again! Of course, I didn’t describe everything in my story, I just wanted to convey my feelings from this hike as fully as possible. And if you also manage to go on similar trips, I think you will understand me, and I will only be HAPPY for you! I hope my description will not seem too drawn out to you; all this was written in one go in 5 hours. This is how fresh the memories are in my memory, despite the fact that a month has already passed. Now I can say that I want more! Thank you all for your attention.
Kirienko Olga, Donetsk.