Carpathians etudes

Ирина Шартавская в походе по Карпатам briefly about a hike on the highest tops of Ukraine on August, 02-07nd 2009
The idea of a "joint" hike with the 12-years nephew was born long - almost year. But, we have been assured, that we shall go together to Crimea and if it is pleasant, - on following time already in Carpathians … I began a camp life with Crimea - time in a year in the summer, then two times in a year - in the spring and in the summer. And in the past to year has changed traditions: has gone to Crimea, in the summer - in Carpathians, on CHernogorsky a ridge in the spring. That karpatsky a hike of 2008 year was so sated(saturated) natural cataclysms (a storm storm dlinoju on the night of slope Petrosa; a gale-force wind near lake Brebeneskul) and emotions, fortunately, basically, - positive, connected with friendly dialogue and perception(recognition) of beauty of the surrounding nature, that when has come back home - spoke almost only about Carpathians, about our group, that necessarily there we shall go still … And so has developed, that for all spring and the beginning of summer we and have not got out in Crimean "pohodenki". From time to time I called up and corresponded with friends, looked out on sites and forums who where gathers and has come across(is going and has come across) yours « the highest tops ». - to convince and collect yourself (that is to pull out from working bog), to convince and collect that guy - Svitozara (you are capable of it!), - and everything, - our reflections and gathering were short.

первый привал в горах

Has impressed (at once, on Ivano-Frankovsk station) group - greater(big), motley and very "non-uniform". The idea has flashed: how our conductor will cope with such a great lot of people? Suddenly someone will be "uncontrollable" or completely not sociable? Has there and then calmed down: the conductor has an assistant, all participants on a kind adult people (if were solved in a hike, means will go, - where from "submarine"?). Two have adjusted marshrutki, have plunged. Before loading have learned(have found out), that already, initially we go the changed route (not from village Kvass as it was planned, and from village Dzembronja), - that is from other end CHernogorskogo of a ridge. I remember, in the questionnaire specified, that for me important to pass(take place) on the declared route. And when has heard about the changes, to itself it became clear, that the plan is absolutely not main (there was no neither disappointment, nor a regret, anything similar).


I was already happy - because was pulled out(has escaped) from work that I cost(stand) not on the dusty, fused asphalt of native Dnepropetrovsk, and on other end of the Ukrainian geography - for one thousand kilometers from the house, with hotly favourite nephew; what exactly for us adventures, any new experiences, new acquaintances, cheerful alive dialogue, - a word, that life for the sake of which we and have run away from hot years(summer) city today begin.

The slice of road in Dzembronju (the last of kilometers ten) is was the present of rodeo: the narrow first coat, one party(side) leaving downwards to the river, all pitted by holes and usypannaja a stone talus; pylishcha from under wheels, - I do not know, whether the same drivers there still will dare to bring up someone, or "zabjut" on such earnings for ever??

сыроварня Свитозар

While went, have got acquainted with a part of group - fellow travellers from ours marshrutki: - Greetings, my name is Ira. - And my name is Ira! - And you whence? I - from Lvov. - and I from Dnepropetrovsk. - as whom you work (I is a chief accountant)?-!!! (And I am a chief accountant!), - absolutely unique dialogue if to consider, that Ira from Dnepropetrovsk, that is, I, - almost always speak in the Ukrainian language, and Ira from Lvov - Russian-speaking! - in the original the conversation also was conducted in two languages). This opening seems, what not all people in Lvov speak on-украински and not all dnepropetrovtsy in Russian, has firstly caused a condition of an easy(a light) cultural shock in other participants of a hike (have not got used yet). First it was very ridiculous …

Dzembronja has met us loose rural wedding - from local selpo « Карпатські zor і » the crowd of very cheerful huzuls in picturesque ethnic clothes has thrown out(has rolled) - they have gone(send) on the middle of road and have got(started) a song about local hero Olekse Dovbushe. The song was sad and, therefore, the laughter and barrackings of executors sounded any wild discord. We have quickly uncovered cameras - to embody alive folklore, and have set further - all time upwards - to the highest tops of Ukraine.


In the past to year I with friends went down with CHernogory from Smotricha to Dzembrone, whence we leaved marshrutkoj; in it(this) to year - here all only begins: familiar places have started gleaming, as the staff of film at return viewing.

The first and second days are there was almost continuous rise upwards. I was afraid of the house, that Svitozar "zabuksuet" if it will be very difficult, but it(he) has appeared the good fellow, and I - "rediskoj" (the first day and the half second day hardly crept upwards, yet has not returned to normal). The most difficult for me was for all time of a hike rise to Smotrichu (chutochku has overloaded a backpack just as and it is not essential, but it is quite enough for such heat to puff over rise as a steam locomotive). Retinues has told, that for it(him) the most unpleasant was crossing(moving) marshrutkoj to Dzembrone (and that was used up in memory by the end of next day).

CHernogorskie tops have met us a strong wind, as well as it is necessary at such height. Having scrambled upward, we have decided to be divided(ed undressbe): the part of group has remained to have a rest and wait the lagging behind fighter, and a part (and I including) - nalegke have run to mountain Priest Ivan (its(her) second name - Black mountain), height of this top of 2028 m above sea level. It(she) is interesting, first of all, the rests of the thrown Polish observatory - from afar the structure reminds the ancient lock; close it is visible, that it all the same "box" from tesanogo a stone and a brick. Surveyed ruins of " the fantastic lock », have admired the kinds, opened to us from height of Black mountain - and, in a way back.

крест на черной горе развалины обсерватории руины обсерватории

The observatory has made upon me depressing impression (as well as the majority of the thrown buildings which I saw earlier) - dust, absence of a part of ladder flights and interfloor overlappings(blockings), inscriptions « Here were … ». But has not regretted, that has gone with « initiative group »: I consider(count), that it is better to go and be convinced personally, than to not go and then to be tormented with an idea: « And suddenly there something indeed interesting and unusual? » (in the past to year I have already overslept Priest Ivan - rolled in tent while people have run there-back).

Svitozar at once has defined(determined), that Priest Ivan and any observatory to it(him) are not interesting basically. With us there were three young girls from Canada - Alexander, Mary and Elli - and the nephew gave all free time to dialogue with them. And as they ustali also have not wanted to run to an observatory, that, naturally, as Svitozar has remained to talk to them (the blessing, with English language at it(him) at school is almost brilliant, and Alexander speaks Russian a little).

By the end of the third day all at last have got acquainted, have realized, that in the evenings, after a supper, a good form is vigil at a fire, instead of early zaleganie in the tent. First two evenings almost nobody sat in the evenings, did not sing, did not play the fool, - whether weariness and a heat so affected, whether still something personal (I do not know, but it was very unusual, that people not tusuetsja at a fire).

Also ate firstly very badly - a significant part of a porridge, especially morning, left to "birdies". With pleasure ate greedily only a day time ration - bacon with black bread and garlic. Many thanks to organizers of a hike for this delicacy, BACON was excellent, never with its(his) such pleasure ate (and houses almost I do not eat). It was true « fua gra » our marching everyday lives! And then, the next days a hike when already all have started to eat both a porridge, and fish canned food, and all everything that was still edible; bacon all the same remains a constant hit. Communication(connection) between high-grade filling of a stomach and good mood, undoubtedly, exists. When the attitude(relation) to meal has changed in the best party(side) - the tone of group has noticeably risen also: evenings became substantial, cheerful - with games, songs, pobasenkami.

In one of these normal evenings JUra, the assistant to a conductor, has sung to us a song about Dovbushe which we already heard in execution(performance) of huzuls. It(she) has appeared longer and sad, than it seemed to me then in village. (it is absolutely not clear, why it(her) sang on a holiday? And why laughed thus? Whether the quantity(amount) of the certain drinks has exceeded quality of their influence on singers??).

The third day of a hike was remembered also the changeable weather - we saw, how somewhere beside lightnings sparkle, on other mountain ridges it is raining - there there were black clouds with storm streams, and above a head in all the bright sun sparkled. From time to time above us some drops of a rain, but really this time, fortunately, were broken and has not watered. Had time to pass(take place) dry though a part of a route.

Day time halt have made near lake Nesamovytogo. And again I have recollected the last year: here we were in the end of June, 2008, on slopes the snow somewhere else laid, people almost did not meet. In August 2009 all here as in a bad dream: city park in the day off - picnics, shish kebabs, squeals, dust. But have quickly found to itself "photographer" in this bedlam to make the general(common) picture of group on a background of lake.

While had a rest, weather was seriously impaired a little (the sky has tightened(delayed) black clouds, droplets of a rain) have more persistently started to fly by all - it was necessary to go down hastily downwards - through Turkulskie bogs in a wood. Parking Glory has chosen remarkable: huge smereki, the river with beautiful perekatami, completely not complex(difficult) flat descent(release) to water, a ripe bilberry and a raspberry near to camp, an abundance of fire wood. We with Svitozarom were ran on vicinities in the evening - the wood, especially that part which is closer to the river - huge old trees, thrickets paporotnikov has very much liked, the ground ustlana a bright green carpet of a moss, here and there from it(him) looked through is bright-pink mushrooms (russulas).

The late evening was marked pereplavkoj the rests vurdy (the soft cheese bought(purchased) in the beginning of a way in handicraft syrovarne on a slope of mountain) on … paste. Under kastrjulku the cover of a can, it(he) a marching boiler has been adapted; it is added chutochku vegetable oil, chesnochka, spices. Remarkable idea iry-львовянки which on advantage have estimated(appreciated): have eaten very quickly and without the rest (both cheese was not gone, and bread "superfluous" podeli, and a variety in a feed(meal) have brought).

Morning of next day has met a rain and a wind - have decided camp to not assort in general (to remain on dnevku). Who does not wish to go anywhere - remains in camp, to whom not "jmetsja" - forward, on Goverlu! To Me, certainly, it was not sat on a place, - has gone. Fortunately, the nephew has appeared more reasonably, and that it should to hold it(him) for a hand at top that has not taken down(has not demolished) a wind, and to dry two pairs a boot, instead of one.

Send(Have left) we under drizzling accompaniment of a rain, in the sky - any light speck - only a grey haze. Waters under legs(foots) also became much more - both in the river, and in neighboring streamlets-streams, and on Turkulskih bogs. Soon at many zahljupalo in boots. We have still decided to not go upward on a "civil" footpath (around), and traversnut CHernogorsky a ridge from that place where we shall leave bogs. It has turned out completely not quickly (as it was supposed) - we practically do not send(have left), and have crept upward, being confused by legs(foots) in a dense high grass and kustarnikovoj young growths.

And at the top of us did not expect anything good - the rain has amplified, a wind from strong pereros in storm. It was necessary to hold all time a raincoat that it(him) did not inflate a wind as a parachute (it seemed, that just about, and someone from us will precisely depart from mountain). Certainly, ourselves have seen, that about any Goverle cannot be and speeches, - dense white-grey clouds have sat down(lodge) on tops, their pieces were taken down a wind by all below, densely shrouding in a fog of a vicinity. It was necessary to go down hastily downwards. We almost and have made (preliminary having left on mountain Turkul). Here there also there was a present(true) wind!!! Vetrishche! If to consider, that the rain did not stop almost for a minute it there was very cheerful walk.

But, with what eagerness we have gone down hardly below, - to small vpadinke on slope Turkula - have hidden in it(her) from a wind and have begun to eat a dry forage (dates, nuts, chocolate). I do not love all this and I do not eat never, but only not on Turkule (still as ate, such tasty all seemed). From we, probably, were looked very unusually (almost as aliens or, as wet hedgehogs in a fog) - group of people in long multi-coloured raincoats with the hoods pulled over persons(faces), all silent, concentrated on a theme: that, as though has not blown off a wind, that, as though to not approach(not drop in) on the fifth point downwards on a wet slope …

On a return way, hardly below bogs, there was a sun (as well as whence it is not clear - several minutes ago all around was grey, foggy, and, suddenly, such imperial gift of the nature). Most likely, we have appeared below and hardly away from that rain belt(zone) which has hung above ours « the highest tops ». By weather conditions as a whole and to that remains ahead two incomplete days, Goverla and Petros and will remain not passed(not taken place) marks on our way. (Petros the second year successively).

Well, also what? Has come to conclusion, that « has passed(has taken place)-not has passed(has taken place) », "was-not" the main thing was far not. It is important, as you went, with whom went; important our dialogue, pleasure; good mood which you have presented other participants. And "has not passed(has not taken place)" - should remain stimulus on the future - to arrive here once again or to arrive yet time and not two times (as it will turn out). - I Shall arrive to third time on CHernogoru and at once I shall get on Petros, that already for certain! (I joke, certainly, but of each joke...).

The sun accompanied with us before the parking and in camp, and later - till the evening. Boots and raincoats sohli around of a fire, we have dispersed on vicinities - once again to take a walk in fantastically beautiful wood; shared impressions later. It has ridiculously turned out, when at once after returning from our sortie, Glory has met us sarcastic: - « Still nobody was possible to run for such short time on Goverlu and back! You - the first! »

Last days of a hike reminded a plot « Ten negritjat » Christie's Agate, - the quantity(amount) of participants steadily decreased (fortunately, not in such radical way, as in the mentioned detective): that kanadki have left, and with them « the lagging behind covered with wounds fighter »; the part kievljan has pulled that per day before the termination(ending) of our action. End of a hike still was also very wet - on 6-th of August from the middle of day as zadozhdilo - and almost till next morning. All time went downwards - return to "civilization" has begun. Here my satellite already chutochku was depressed - nice girls from Canada have left, legs(foots) have got wet, from above too pours.

The mood has improved only on Zarosljake - have bought(purchased) souvenir kulon on a leather thong in the form of a canine with the cut out head of an eagle on it(him) (similar far not local handicraftsmen have modeled it(him), - more likely representatives of the fifth part of the population of the Earth, but it is not so important). My friends, for example, brought souvenirs which have been made … in Ukraine from Czechia and Poland. Here it was where more cheerfully and more unexpectedly.

Last parking has appeared very original - two poluzabroshennyh at home without windows, but with doors; with added wooden lesenkami on an attic (the second floor!); with the laid out ovens. In one of small houses have found out any iron tightly closed box (a fireproof case, what?!). From time to time in these(it) "kolybah" as them has named JUra, similar there live the same tourists, as we, or foresters. It was visible, that ovens used; on floors - the rests of a laying from fur-tree branches. Have decided to take advantage of such haven and we: the rain did not stop. We were equipped on a lodging for the night not bad enough: one tent have put directly in a small house, in a distant small room; in the big room have laid kovriki sploshnjakom, and from above in a number(line) have laid sleeping bags.

The most difficult this evening have appeared to dissolve a fire - all around crude or frankly wet; the paper for rastopki has appeared absolutely useless - itself at once razmokla. "Magician-magician" had appeared JUra: has pulled out from bowels of a backpack a plastic bottle in which there were some usual stearin candles, and by means of such candle has kindled fire. Owing to it(him), even in such dank rainy evening we took place "posydenki" at a fire: with hot food and tea, with jokes and cheerful bajkami. And though it was not the most long supper for all hike and not all in it(him) took part(participated) directly (Elena from Minsk has flatly refused to go down from the « the second floor » - zabojalas heights! It was necessary to sons and the husband to submit to it(her) of "dish" it is direct there), - the atmosphere of dialogue was very warm, is much warmer than the damp crude air which has shrouded our parking.

In the morning comprehension of has come that already and candles will not help(assist) - the fire any more will not be. Anybody especially was not upset in occasion of absence of tea and a porridge, - we shall be in Ivano-Frankovsk (it is possible and to suffer) in the afternoon. Has amused and has helped(assisted) finally to wake up process of removal of Lena from an attic, that is, descent(release) of especially valuable cargo from the top apartments.

Brief and fast transition to road, last handful of a wood raspberry, - and everything, we in marshrutke, go back. All our hike now seems brief, but sated(saturated), an instant. It was pleasant? Mainly, yes. There was only a sensation, that all is somehow very fast, that "were not", that something had not time to tell or learn(tell or find out). "Incompleteness" of a hike already generates its(his) desire "up to-pass(to-take place)" in the future (Petros! - too to me, « inaccessible top »!); and the unique beauty karpatskoj the nature causes even greater aspiration to return and look new places.

We with the nephew have already agreed, that we shall arrive to the Western Ukraine again in the next summer, we shall go in karpatsky a hike (for example, on Gorgany), and then we shall lodge for some days in Ivano-Frankovsk and we shall go on neighboring villages and gorodochkam. This time we after a hike have removed(have taken off) hotel for two days and had time to go in Kolomyju, and also is closer(more attentive), than before a hike, to get acquainted with Ivano-Frankovsk. Svitozar, the truth, very much regretted, that there are no with themselves rollers - we have found out very equal partially foot street near to the historical center. On it(her) « the Tree of happiness » grew (shaped from iron) from a beautiful nursery kachelkoj on branches, on rollers local boys and girls there drove.

We have remained the organization of our "action" are happy(enough). Though I do not eat sweet (including-@-@-асную a sweet porridge with raisin), and taki did not eat it(her), - hungry have not remained never as always there was an alternative (a piece of black bread, for example). And once again many thanks for bacon!!! Probably it promoted my usual satiety. Svitozar, in general, ate everything, that was offered (though in house conditions is choosiest). I thank you also for it - that the hike "has thoroughly corrected" its(his) attitude(relation) to a feed(meal).

Separately I wish to tell many thanks to conductors - to Vyacheslav and JUre - for understanding, for tolerance, for optimism and skill always to supervise a situation. The group really was big, it not seemed to me then at station, - and all very different people both on character, and on a level of physical preparation and the general(common) state of health. And that the hike has passed(has taken place) in a benevolent atmosphere that all easily went on the compromise that in very deadline sides of contact between so different people have been found that the majority of us have very much become friends by the end of a route is, certainly, a merit of those who was « at a rudder ».

I well remember, how we sat at a fire and languidly talked on various themes, and here has approached(suited) Glory, has started to learn(teach) all to cheerful game « in contact » and as we then played it(her) the most part of night and laughed loudly(roared) on all camp; as to JUry, at it(him), in my opinion, optimism and cheerfulness simply « in blood »: it is so much times it(he) the stories cheered us up, as to not consider(not count;not read out). I shall tell frankly, in a following hike I would like to appear with such conductor as Glory or JUra, - they excellent(different) organizers and interesting people with whom it can be hardly boring.

Thanks all participants of our hike - are very glad, that have got acquainted with you, was cheerful, it was interesting. Let's be friends families! Give still together we descend(go) in mountains!

From Dnepropetrovsk with love, Ira SHartavskaja, Svitozar Marchenko

On August, 19th, 2009