Deja vue in a marching way

таня у водопада в Хапхальском ущелье Cубъективное opinion on a hike " Water and Stones " on June, 21-26st 2009.
 Probably I am not strong in an epistolary genre, but the subjective opinion-response on a hike I shall state. Basically, all reports very different, but at the same time are very similar - well would like because the narration goes plus-minus about the same places (at me, for example, on each site of a way in a head I emerged chyo-nibud opisanee this place from responses, and nachitalas them so many that such impression, that I already there was, … and not time) I shall not be original - for the beginning background. In a hike across mountain Crimea I gathered years edak 10, I am especially active there gathered last years 5, and here it happiness, at last that « other time » on which this all was transferred(carried), have come. Considering that in most cases the hike was impossible because of absence of the marching company including the person knowing where to go and how then to return back I have started to search for this all in the organized kind "ready" by someone (well here naturally it is impossible to overestimate the Internet and a site on which have solved will stop, that is this). A route has chosen being guided by a uniform principle - places which for a long time wished to visit(attend), but for any reasons did not visit(attend), with which have appeared cave Emine-Баир-Хосар, the Valley of Reductions, a falls "Dzhur-Джур" and directly mountains; the responses which have been preliminary read through, have assured me of correctness of a choice of a route. vobshchem, it(this) I have started to be engaged in all even in the early spring so - that to late spring and the husband has ripened on a hike in a hike))

на нижнем плато Чатыр Nachnyoms … as well as it has been stipulated by a place of a meeting there was a Simferopol station and by that moment as we there send(have approached;have suited) there already there was a sufficient congestion of people, greater than I expected that, but here there were conductors and have started us to divide on two parts, we in turn divided products and stuffed them on backpacks (in a head one turned - it is necessary to take how many but to not pick up superfluous))). In it(this) fascinatingly-делительном process it has appeared that two person in our group does not suffice, and Vladimir has started actively them to search for our conductor on means of telecommunication and has found … in meter from us adjoined to group Tarasa. Vobshchem, having understood who with whom where goes we have moved on marshrutku which us has brought in Perevalnoe-last civilization the nearest 6 days.

The route should begin with preslavutoj Ishachki for which I was morally prepared still at home, well in the first comrades, rasslabljajtes-such "ishachek" on a way still there will be one and it(she) the most terrible is far not, and in the second still it was necessary to reach it(her), than we and have borrowed(occupied) first of all - pokarabkalis minutes 20 upwards (can and more - warm-up impressing enough), up to a spring where we have got the first stocks of water and for the first time had in common dinner, and during preparation of a plain dinner have started to get acquainted.

над Долиной реки Ангары Here, probably, it is necessary to write about our marching company. There was us 8 person, i.e. 4 pairs (in sense the boy-girl, the boy-girl) - two pairs from Ukraine (Kiev) and 2 from Russia (Moscow and Vyatka). Vprintsipe, everyone were approximately one age with pljus-a minus identical marching opportunities. No, well boys were certainly more feasible, the public kettle was especially allocated Glory which went « ahead of a planet of all » that bore(carried) constantly a lot of water, and two canvas plashchpalatki (tselesoobranost which captures it was discussed not time during a hike))), thus it(he) reached there where it is necessary threw off the backpack, went down and took away backpack Kiry that it(her) to unload. While glory and Seryozha we moved rather quick rate with Kiroj most often « grazed back », but at once I wish to tell, it is not necessary to try to catch up with the one who goes more quickly - have caught the comfortable rate in it(him) and go, to sense will be more and forces will suffice on longer. At times certainly I lagged behind intentionally, for example to admire the nature, or during gathering grasses on jajlah, and then caught up 8 ahead of going backpacks on legs.

подъем на Ангар Бурун Extraordinary plus was that nobody nyl in occasion of weariness, weight of a route and did not demand change of a way of movement aside easier(lighter). (though I think a secret is simple - all complained, but simply friend-friend, "vnutrisemejno") Among us was not smoking and thirsting to drink pivka or others garjachitelno-pleasure drinks, rose early, went quickly …..))) Eventually the plan have executed and have exceeded))) Probably ours « the group of health » would seem to someone rather boring, but looking from my belltower - the person going to a hike, actually for the sake of a hike, this company rather successfully has been picked up.

Let's return to "Ishachke" … what exact name … - we loaded, under the scorching sun, long cheredoj we last upwards. And here it(he) the first kind with what-any but heights, naturally "photosession" and a halt (neotemlimye sostovljajushchie ways) and coming sensation of the Crimea. And further again in a way, rise, Bottom plateau CHatyr-Daga on which we also have reached our first parking. It(she) should be (proceeding from the information on a site) in any cave, but Vladimir (our conductor if I about it(this) did not speak) has told, that there for a long time all is already dirtied having a rest, and sense there to go is not present. It can and to the best as our parking lot has appeared very beautiful, in lozhbinke, and around all zelyonoe-prizelyonoe (as I live in new sleeping area where the greens is not present in general, practically any vegetation in aggregate being a wood, a meadow and so forth results(brings) me in wild delight).

скала над облаками Bystrenko having broken camp (we with it(this) not to time did not have any problems, tent to put in a condition were all), having warmed we have rushed to excursion in cave "emine-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ", I shall not describe all this beauty, and only I shall recommend necessarily to descend(go) that who there was not. It can seem strange, but on me greater impression stalactites and stalagmites, not have made not lakes, and the bottom view on a natural input(entrance) in a cave, (there was no only a head of a dinosaur looking in it(him)). Time as to us guides also have told, in caves flies more quickly than on a surface and have not deceived - polutorachasovaja excursion on sensation last hour a floor. Having returned from a cave we have waited ours tushyonochnogo a supper and not for long having communicated dispatch(deliver;have missed) on tents, send(have departed) to a dream early.

Morning too has begun early … at everything, I think in most cases for the same reason as at me - have frozen .k to that moment as we povypolzali from palatok and have started to gather us already the breakfast - a porridge which was in good time welded(cooked) by Vladimir waited, and in general it(he) to us all time all cooked (for what to it(him) many thanks), and on our shoulders laid down only narezanie sandwiches on a dinner. In occasion of meal - all is good, classical pantophagy in a hike, I think, wakes up at everything, but here morning porridges it for me it was any test as I did not strew it(her) saharkom, did not wash down chajkom there was no it(she) to me, did not go. (in otlichae from suppers and dinners). By the way with saharkom there was a puncture, saccharin have forgotten to put and the small amount of sugar was necessary to stretch(drag out) on all days, basically for porridges, and tea tried to drink without sugar.

спуск в Хапхальское  ущелье Second our day has begun with « water procedures » at a stream. In total any a floor of hour from parking and here it happiness. As the dirt on a body was distinctly felt since yesterday's evening low temperature of water has not affected(influenced) in any way desire to find cleanliness of a body (by the way, at all on long) and vivacity of spirit (it(her) sufficed for longer period). Our way laid in Yew gorge. And here I have seen such nature which in any way at me did not associate with Crimea (basically the sight at Crimea from a beach plank bed very much differs from a sight from mountains) - the highest beeches and yews, the stone crevices, the tumbled down trees all it, for some reason navivalo ideas on any prehistoric period (besides did not suffice small travojadnyh dinozavrikov on « kurih legs » peacefully chewing greens).

Having left a shady wood I have noticed that we gain height. Landscapes simply shook(amazed) - pleasantly green, soft on a kind slopes of mountains, still it is a little on a footpath along rocky breakage and we at bottom of top plateau chatyr-сбъб - mountain the Hangar the Breaker our purpose. And here has begun … rise was not from lungs. First I went from "purpose" to "purpose" with which stones fallen down in heaps and small derevtsa served, but having passed(having taken place) third of way rise in my execution(performance) looked(appeared) as - 5шагов I do-cost(do-stand;make-cost), 5 steps I do(make) - I cost(stand) … Pleased that that owing to a wind the scorching sun so was not felt. It was a unique place where in my head has flown an idea « well and what for itself so muchat? », has flown and did not appear any more in spite of the fact that it was not last difficult rise.

по корням буков Having got on top before failing on the ground for rest to me it was necessary more to run about forward-back for broken by a wind from a backpack sidushkoj, making intricate hvatatelnye movements.))) continuation of a way was rather predicted after ljubovanija a landscape from height of the bird's flight we were waited with descent(release) - rather abrupt and long. Basically during any moment I have started to think, that on rise it was not too bad …, will think, was breathed more hard, and now breathed very easily, but here legs(foots) were simply was afraid for weariness, especially it was felt when stopped (not only was felt is that was clearly visible) During descent(release) of a leg(foot) and did(made) that started to move down with a talus of stones and kamushkov in a weighty cloud of a dense dust. I also did(made) that caught of myself a track a stick. By the end of descent(release) I was it is impossible is glad and happy and had in stock two wadded legs(foots) (as after epiduralnoj anesthesias) which already poorly could execute my commands(teams).

And again a dinner, tea, rest and forward. For me was surprising, that I not to time have not crashed down on descent(release), probably, therefore I have crashed down after a dinner and rest on an equal place. Plus a backpack I have dropped all trunk on one kolenku from what it(she), thank God has not broken, but was broke. Further our way laid to Angarsk pass. As practically all had an obsession to be bought (both from heat and from a dirt) a message about that that the lake Kutuzovskoe by which we shall go, still has not dried up pleased … .no exactly until while we up to it(him) went. The lake represented anything other as zarosshuju seaweed, a lukewarm pool, therefore pomochiv legs(foots), having had a rest on coast, having eaten on pair barbarisok, having re-stuck a plaster we all have moved.

трудный участок In process of descent(release) there were attributes of a civilization - the asphalted road, shop. We have crossed a line on Alushtu and we were waited again with rise - all have included the autopilot and silently stamped up to the appointed(nominated) place. The parking lot again was very beautiful-between two ruchyov in a wood (streamlets, certainly, were "zhidenkie" concerning quantity(amount) of water, but murmured rather uspokaivajushche), and a number(line) was the open glade with a kind on the sea and Demerzhi. On it(her) we have gone in the morning of next day.

We have reached a saddle Demerdzhi, and further it has been decided to study(investigate) vicinities nalegke, therefore having left the weighty belongings in bushes we have moved upwards … both upwards and upwards while before us simply fascinating kind … has not opened. A kind on the Valley of Reductions (I am a pity certainly that not prguljalas after it(her) below, but all it at all does not diminish pleasure received from contemplation from above.) from height and beauty grasped spirit.

спуск к морю Again taki not absolutely that in my consciousness was interfaced(integrated) to concept Crimean mountains - again taki vejalo doistorichnostju (and at me why associated about Sowing. America)) - ground, bashnepodobnye rocks between which turn green small derevtsa and greater(big) birds soaring below. To describe it it is useless, (since greater(big) literary abilities to transfer(transmit) this beauty at me are not present), it is necessary to go, climb and look at it(her). Having sat for a long time at edge(territory) of a precipice (when someone approached(suited) to the edge(territory), I for fear closed eyes) we have gone further behind impressions - destination was Northern Demerdzhi. Here we were developed peering through easy(light) clouds in the vineyards which have stretched below, could not, naturally to not climb on the highest point designated in a Soviet way by a red flag, ocherednroj time having tested a mix of fear for height and pleasure from beauty, having had a look (borrowed(lent) at the guy sat there) at coast we have returned to the field-glass on a saddle.

And further us the dinner and not simply halt waited, and privalishche probably hour or is more posleobednogo valjanija with conversations and provalivaniem in a dream.. And again in a way. This time our purpose gorge Haphalskoe - the beautiful piece of a way most in my opinion. And again we were waited with abrupt descent(release), business was in a beechen wood, therefore all slope has been simply penetrated by roots of trees which continually sticked out everywhere, and again taluses of fine stones plus we shall add the tumbled down trees which it was necessary to get, vobshchem in process of spuskanija legs(foots) became all more poorly and more poorly, and the nature more beautifully and more beautifully, we appeared all below and below, and noise of the river staval all more loudly and more loudly.

на пляже в Рыбачьем And here at last it(she), present(true) mountain river Ulu-Uzen. On its(her) way there were falls and perelivy different size. Water was transparent so, that if not current it would be possible to think, that it(her) and at all is not present. I went along the river and enjoyed the nature. The parking lot was the most beautiful for all hike. It was a slope around there were very tall trees and boulders, tents put on one two on small concerning equal uchastochkah. Still this place was the cosiest and the most water since this time waters was though fill in, it was possible to bathe to erase and drink (though simultaneously), but there was one but … water was 8 degrees, therefore that that we bathed, probably, heard all gorge Haphalskoe.

The river in itself fine enough, but places is fonts but as to nearest of deep literally turn from ours sopohodnikov was built, we with Sergey have decided « to take a bath » without turn and is closer to "habitation", in my eagerness to bathe me has sufficed to reach up to vodopadika and to be photographed, on it(this) to feel legs(foots) I has ceased, and bathing which resembled any chaotic floundering in water (knee-deep) under own cries of invocation of mummy for the help from a cold))) was necessary still actually. It last minutes two, but okachenet all was in time. By the moment okanchanija water procedures darkness and a supper so we were warmed tushyonochno-вермишелевым by a supper and the stunned grassy tea already approached and have ripened on repeated bathing, but since morning.

By the way about tea - probably at all in the summer it(he) sdobavleniem travok, but we soon have ceased to use in general tea and practically all time drank(saw) simply chabrets with limonnikom both a dogrose, and for tea (contrary to the information on a site)) prepared and for a dinner. This time after a supper we were late a little bit longer usual and after debate on a theme of policy(politics) between us and muscovites we peacefully send(have departed) to a dream under persevering noise of the river.

Every day to rise all it was heavier and neohotnej, but all every day we left hours per eight has begun the ninth. As well as we gathered since morning were expiated (in a font more deeply) and encouraged by ice water have gone(send) along the river to Dzhur-Джуру. This time I have lagged behind intentionally to walk alone with the nature and have suddenly caught up with all at once. Because all hung on a huge boulder above the river (so it looked(appeared) from), they are more exact on it(him;them) climbed, tobish it was a certain obstacle in our way. Generally I cannot tell that it was difficult, but when lezish on slippery stones, and below there is nothing except for quickly current, very fine river and the backpack somehow from time to time pulls back sensations ticklish.

After overcoming so intricate obstacle our way for some time has interrupted at Falls Dzhur-Джур as it was even not later morning, to people from coast to come in large numbers still was not in time. Having examined this sight from below and from above we have again set out (a falls me so strongly has not impressed as the river as a whole). On an output(exit) from us have taken on 15 grn for visiting vysheupomjanutogo a nature sanctuary. Have again typed(collected) waters and in a way, Ah-бЅС¬Яї® for us already waited.

Having passed(Having taken place) through « pioneer camp » (tents and children in a plenty, - here this correct childhood) we send(have left) on a footpath on which merno walked until while us have not stopped the outdoor games, socially useful work goodness knows where from undertaken observers of the wood order who have started to demand with us a bribe at a rate of 4грн from the person for passage on tourist tracks, doing(making) special accent(stress) on a paper with a press(seal). But having noticed excitements in weights have started to bargain forcing down the price for trampling zapovednoj zones. Having received the 30 grn and having written out us the receipt foresters have gone something to measure, and we have gone(send) to a source - and as it was insulting - near the source and on a glade we were met with dust, places kuchkami (it is a pity that money knocked down from tourists go not on something useful (export of dust), and apparently on pollitru, vobshchem as always « for power is insulting ».

Having had dinner and having had a rest shady woods our immediate rate through pass Likon we have gone to source nefan-ТєСЎэ (our night parking) on which we send(have come) much earlier than it has been stipulated, therefore time for a sink(washing), washing, walks and a sit-round gathering was enough. The place was sincere, unique that it(him) spoilt it often meeting horse manure a little. All went on "nakatannoj" water procedures at a stream by way of turn, solar baths on a slope with a kind on the sea and mountains (before the first invasion of any insects), we have still found ripe wild strawberry on the same slope, gathering of fire wood (I nasobirala something not that) so business is has reached(cunning) and till a supper (this time we tushyonochnye everyday lives were brightened up by a sardine).

Perhaps, it was the longest and cheerful evening-we played the crocodile (pantomime) that has brought a lot of fun and pleasures. Night was enough warm, and to rise in the morning would not be desirable at all. Both again a porridge and again gathering and again in a way. Rises and descents(releases) was not, but there were kustiki … these(it) uzhasno-prickly bushes (beautifully, certainly, but it is impractical), that they are scratched it yes, but even more simply acted on nerves clinging for all podrjat. Vobshchem as we left early and there were quickly enough that "plan" we have executed and have exceeded, on this has been decided to be started up again in a hike without backpacks (which we have again hidden in kustikah) on mountain Jasan-Katran-Tepe which has got to us as "bonus")))

Absence of a backpack certainly facilitated rise a little, but as a whole the situation did not vary - to go was kapets as hard! We Rose on, it is possible to tell, to historical tracks - to the rests it is a lot of centuries back the paved road, to the next trading way. In process of rise we did(made) privalchiki and had a bite dried apricots and dates, was very much zharko, to me was and it is heavy and simultaneously a pity that it is last rise in this hike and in general this remarkable action approaches(suits) to the logic end. Having reached top to us there was one more source in the form of a well an inscription on which cover said about that that water in it(him) kazankami and legs(foots) to stir up it is not necessary from what we naturally and have refused (because of absence kazanka and necessity to wash a leg(foot))).

In Crimea it is a lot of sources and all of them different and water in them different and very tasty, and it is unique in which water was with any specific, marsh smack. Last (in this hike) a sight with it is high, on which we passed(took place) examining of places with bright examples in the distance and descent(release) through the Greater(Big) Gate to a place where we were waited with backpacks. This more than three-hour walk last under the scorching sun, that very much all has tired. Still we slightly with Sergey have lagged behind and on a fork slegontsa were lost, but « the call to the friend » has very much gained(helped) us also we have quickly caught up with all.

After rest we have gone down to small ozertsu where there was our last spending the night - here it was already possible and to swim for a while, though water all equally was cold. This evening we spoke about lead together five days about the heaviest and beautiful sites of a way and as it is not strange the heaviest practically for all there were different places on different sites of a way.

Morning of next day was early - to sleep in nagretoj sun tent was simply impossible. An exchange imejlami, calculation and through vineyards already through any pair hours, all in pyljuke we have appeared on sea I protect - heaped backpacks and we bathe in the sea - and up to what it is good when float, and nothing reduces from a cold)))

And further all as at all farewell and Kira and Glory have remained in Fishing, Marrying and Olga have gone to Nikolaevka, Anja and Misha to Simferopol behind things and in a camping, and We with Sergey have continued our travel that on the sea that overland up to Sevastopol …

As a whole a hike simply remarkable, impressions the sea, basically all positive (from negative pair callouses and broken kolenka which simply grow gim on a background positive, and still can be it would be desirable hear more about local places in more distinct stories) But as a whole both a conductor and the company and a route all is excellent(different).

At once pair advice(councils) for those who will be (if will be) to read it before the first hike Concerning footwear is probably, the most important. If go in sandaljah (even if it is sandals in which you for a long time go also they to you never rubbed as it was actually at me) at once dress socks - between a sole sandalja and the sweated leg(foot) popodaet a dust and melenkie kamushki and all it sooner or later leads to occurrence of callouses (they at me have appeared day on the third, on a sole). In general it is good to have trekingovuju footwear - poverte, on abrupt descent(release) very much chustvuetsja a difference when you change clothes of usual sports sandals on a sandal on vibrame. That's it then you understand in what "prikol" and why stand(cost) so much.

Concerning the first-aid set - take much, no, it is a lot of plaster, and good (legs(foots) wet and dusty the plaster both sticks badly and falls off before put) Rather palok - personally they have very much helped(assisted) me on descents(releases) and rises. Concerning sugar - if for you very essentially tea with sugar, take to myself slightly saharinchiku, and that zabyvanie sugar as I have understood, not a single instance)))))

P.S. Thanks organizers, a conductor to Vladimir and, naturally, all going company for sincere pastime)))))