Eight tourists not including a guide

Written by Олег Гапоненко из Мелитополя « The main advantage of our book is not its(her) literary style and at all(even not) abundance of a different sort of useful data containing in it(her), and its(her) truthfulness. Pages of this book represent the impartial report on really occuring(happening) events. Work of the author was reduced only to some(a little;a little bit) to recover a narration, but also for it it(he) does not demand to itself(himself) compensation »
Dzherom K. Dzherom
« To Troy in a boat not including a dog »

So, in one of December preNew Year's days, your obedient the servant has like an idea on necessity to go … .mmm … well, even in a hike. Long fluctuations in occasion of that it will be Crimea, I did not test, it was necessary to be defined(determined) only with what it will be a hike. Here in me actually doubts, not from an abundance of variants of hikes (them at me actually was two), and from what to prefer also have arisen. I chose between velopohodom and the pedestrian hike. A greater(big) role in a final choice, all - taki, the site outdoorukraine, namely responses of participants of hikes has played (it is interesting, moderators delete frankly negative responses? =)

About what that is I? … .a, yes … and so, having defined(determined) with a choice and having stopped on a route « Water and Stones », I have begun the, it is possible to tell semi-annual preparation. As has shown experience, I have made it knowingly. From equipment there was practically nothing therefore the stock of time has helped(assisted), not leaving holes in the family budget to get all necessary.

Half a year have flown by as one instant, and here with a backpack I already at the Simferopol station. Having reached up to uslovlennogo places, I to admit in the beginning was struck dumb also the first idea was such: « as I here have got and where my things? » Actually was to that to be surprised - I have reached a place, organizer Svetlana have found, but group …. About nine person in the age of from 10 till 13 years with mums … Having taken in hands I all the same have decided to wait and see myself than all this to end. As it has appeared, the panic was vain as it has appeared, it was one more group going on our route, only a nursery. Seeing as mums and children charge themselves with huge backpacks, I, fairly, have admired to their courage, high moral spirit and physical endurance ….

By this time began to be tightened and other participants (already by mine) groups. The command(team) has appeared international: Russians (Inna, Masha, Anja, Andrey) and ukraintsy (Alla, Oleg, JUlja, Oleg (it already) and here … .pojavilsja it(he).


Our conductor. Courageously gleaming glasses of glasses(spots), in trousers-transformers (which were transformed practically to everything, beginning(starting) from shorts and finishing(stopping) small tent in which it is possible to wait not strong rain) in Buffe on a head, it(he) personified the standard of the CONDUCTOR. For six days it(he) became, it is possible to tell, our father. I do not think, that we were the most good children, but the sense of humour at Andrey (our conductor) has sufficed on all six days while it(he), at last, has not got rid of us in Alushte. But about all under the order.

Having divided(undressed) meal on backpacks we have gone on a trolley bus. (it was our last vehicle on all the following six days).


In a trolley bus we did not miss: Andrey told cheerful histories about ticks and a flower-murderer which leaves huge voldyri on a body, and then eats you still lukewarm (a joke!) . And Oleg with Alla tried to distribute among us a citric acid (that at them eventually has turned out), assuring, that it(she) (acid) added in usual water from a source gets directly magic properties. Cures all illnesses, beginning(starting) from a diarrhea and finishing(stopping) easy(light) dislocations and stretchings. With songs having reached up to Perevalnogo and having unloaded from tralika, we in dense have approached(suited) to our first test - terrible and awful Ishachej to a track. Andrey has pleased us, having told, that usually it(he) prefers to not scoff at tourists and conducts them absolutely other road, but considering, that someone in our group became the hundred-thousandth client of firm, it(he) has decided to award all participants walk on a lovely Ishachej track. Not having stepped yet on a hard path of the pedestrian hike and not knowing about how at times happen conductors are artful, all have naturally rushed to thank a generous conductor, and Anja even has given the tent.

In general, magic abilities of a conductor deserve separate clause(article), and there can be even books. So, after words of a conductor, hundreds meters of a way turn to tens, and kilometers in hundreds, usual sources turn in "Arabian", and bankoj tushenki and pjatistami in grams of vermicelli the wizard - the conductor is capable to feed with one a minimum nine person and thus, can be assured, nobody will ask the additive. It(he) kindles(heats) a fire by means of one match and three litres of fuel and knows names of the most important mountains of Crimea, strange tablets on a kind in its(his) skilful hands turn to sugar, and a suspicious powder I shall merge. And still it is a lot of - much all.

However, we shall return to our megabonus Ishachej to a track. We vigorously walked upwards on a first coat in an environment the woods adjusted by mosquitoes, songs did not sing, as everyone considered all advantages of the received prize.


Soon the wood has ended, and the stone track upwards on mountain has gone. SHestnadtsatikilogrammovyj the backpack behind a back at all did not prevent to observe of opening kinds at you under legs(foots), and vigorous puffing sogrupnikov confirmed, that there is nothing better, than sweat which slides from you a hailstones and irrigates stony tropku. And still Ishachja the track costs(stands) that on it(her) to rise only because having appeared above, you cannot allocate(remove) eyes from opening kinds: lakes, tops of the mountains tightened(delayed) easy(light) bluish dymkoj, settlements which have picturesquely scattered the toy small houses below …


And still, it certainly air. After a dirt and you simply do not feel a dust of city as it(he) enters into your lungs, such sensation, that the breast is not filled with it(him) absolutely and this very surprising impression. Having given(allowed) us it is a little to feel subjugators of mountain tops (not for a long time) from mountains two active grandmothers have gone down, having declared, that they somewhere drive herd of wild wild boars and in general, are not measured(going) to communicate with such puny creatures as we.


otdyshavshis, have moved further, already on mountain jajle. Surprisingly - among mountains and suddenly steppe. Here we have met recent "children's" group. Conveniently having settled down under the unique bush, giving a shadow, they have already started a dinner. Looking at this inadmissibly weakened condition, Andrey (not the conductor), has told a phrase which refutation became the purpose of all further hike of "unfortunate" children. « Look at our persons(faces), now you will see only our backs », - has thrown Andrey on the move. Since this moment the consciousness of children has turned over. Children have pledged, that there will be 24 hours per day, but will not dare to look at our backs. And race on a survival (fortunately nobody has suffered) has begun. In a consequence, on each parking where we met this group, they remembered to us our phrase. As a result, that business is not has reached(not cunning) the open confrontation we have made a decision to disappear in woods.

Whether it is long short, but at last, we send(have left) to cave emine-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ. This cave really that, on what it is necessary to look, and the guide that which it is necessary to listen. However, at them in caves, probably shortage of men as the guide all threatened to leave one of participants of group for updating a genofund.

And so, caves is abruptly. Temperature inside in the hottest heat +5, humidity of air of 100 %. emine-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ it is stalactites, stalagmites, bones of mineral animals, cave lakes, huge poteki by the form reminding fruit candy, freakish forms of stones in the form of animals and people. In general, words to not transfer(transmit), to see most better.

Having got out of a cave after hour excursion and having charged already become native, about because heavier backpacks, we have moved to a place of our first parking. We have settled down near a grotto in a rock, the most curious even have tried to investigate(research) it(him).


But, as has shown research, mammoths and saber-toothed tigers there already povyvelis, and bertsovye and rather impudent black bugs of special delight have not caused a bone of cows. Having pitched tents, we have begun to collect fire wood and to make the first supper in Crimea. By the way, from an easy(a light) hand of a conductor and application of the most unpretentious sorcery - the double tent has turned in three-local, where we three together (I and two Andreys) all and slept(burn) during all hike.

Having refused the offered matches and poterev (not long, somewhere about an hour) two sticks the friend about the friend, Andrey - the conductor has started to prepare for a masterpiece of culinary art - grechku with tushenkoj.


The porridge prepared on a fire, it at all that, that is prepared on gas komforke. Eating of the porridge prepared on a fire, demands special ritual: it and podbrasyvanie vetochek in a fire, and sparks which it(he) scatters around of itself(himself), and the weakened wind which softly strokes a falling asleep grass and miriady on years(summer) bright stars, and, certainly, bubnjashchy the voice of a conductor telling about tshchete all real, and many other things that it is possible to feel only when eat a porridge prepared on a fire.

The first evening was evening of acquaintances. As it has appeared, all in group were approximately identical age, probably, therefore personally to me it was comfortable with these people. Having told pair baek about reductions a grotto, the conductor ordered to clean all a teeth, to wash and go to sleep. The most whimsical, has promised next day to leave without chocolate.

Morning has begun with pobudki which was organized with our lovely conductor. Having selected three strongest men, it(he) has headed a hike behind water. Near to a grotto we have gone down in a "wild" cave. And again low temperature, damp walls and the outer darkness dispersed only by light of our small lamps. Walls of a cave were is grey - black color and Andrey has explained to us, that when cave explorers open a new cave, its(her) walls of white color. However, the is more often it(she) is visited(attended) by people, the its(her) wall as the microclimate of a cave changes become more dark and there are new microorganisms.

Actually, the impression of a cave in which we have gone down, was hardly probable not greater(big), than from visiting emine-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ. There were a projector and a voice of the guide, here at the switched off lantern it was not visible absolutely anything, dampness and slippery stones under legs(foots) was felt only. Having typed(collected) waters and having returned to camp, we have made a breakfast, have collected tents, backpacks and already about ten o'clock in the morning walked on a track. Having made a small halt and having filled up stocks of water from a source, we have "stealthily entered on territory of reserve. Hospitable foresters have met us with open arms for our walk through reserve has brought it(him) n-нную the sum of money.


Most was indignant GPS at Andrey since it(he) persistently approved(confirmed), that a track on which we go, does not concern to territory of reserve. Having said goodbye to hospitable foresters, we have gone further, all more close approaching(suiting) to our purpose - top the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker with height 1527 m above sea level. From ethical reasons I shall not result(bring) idiomatic expressions of participants of group while we overcame pjatisotmetrovyj rise. Practically having reached top, we got on the backpacks full of enthusiasm, but absolutely weakened(absolutely grown weak). Especially, as I have understood, rise on the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker has made on Andrey from Moscow. It(he) approved(confirmed), that somewhere from the middle of rise has started to communicate with the maximum(supreme) reason which as a sign has sent it(him) a ladybird.

Yes it, in general - that and is not surprising, considering what kinds open at height of one and a half kilometer. Especially I was amazed(struck) with the moment when because of a rock the helicopter has come up and flied simply at us under legs(foots) so highly we have got. While we had dinner, on the other hand on the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker really greater(big) crowd of people has started to rise. As it has then appeared this day there served something like molebna. From top the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker we have seen the sea in the distance and as on palm Alushtu. Having had a rest at top, we have begun descent(release). Again stony tracks, kamushki from under legs(foots), and so on, in general, romanticism. (besides not all could reach the end of descent(release) with the whole kolenjami).

Having gone down and having passed(having taken place) it is a little on jajle, we have again entered into a wood. Here to us there was a lost the way grandfather who true has set on a way besides our conductor. Our today's way to a wood, near a spring has ended. Perhaps, it was most "komarinoe" a place for all hike. In the evening at a fire, Oleg prochel all lecture on advantages and lacks of existing aqualungs, and also about diving as those. Andrey-conductor carefully summarized all, as it(he), among other things also the fan of alloys on the river on rafts. And as I have understood, the aqualung is necessary to it(him) if the raft will turn over. Having appeared in water to not lose time, Andrey could borrow(occupy) in diving in parallel.

Morning has again begun with a dairy porridge (morning, actually, always began with a dairy porridge). Having had breakfast, we have collected our belongings (at their all scarcity not clearly why they weighed so much) we again potopali through a wood. From mosquitoes us rescueed(saved) Moscow a miracle-spray. Through any time we were caught up with tourists - "matrasniki". They too were with a conductor, but without the backpacks, going on a simple route within several hours. However, grandmothers for sixty walked very much even rezvenko, and on rise where they have overtaken us, attributes of a short wind of them was not observed. Left a wood and thrickets of a nettle, we again send(have left) on the open district where the panorama of majestic mountains again has opened and it is tempting green valleys. Eagles (fortunately, they have bitten nobody, probably, they had business(affairs) more important) below soared.

Having reached mountain Bald Ivan, Andrey has shown to us, that the echo in mountains nevertheless is. And still long our wild shouts rushed among rocks, frightening wild birds, animal and not less wild tourists. Not far we have made a halt, have filled up stocks in a source trampled loshadmi, and have again got under way in a way. Have begun rise on not so abrupt, but enough narrow tropke with breakage on the one hand and a steep rock with another. On a way the conductor forced all to collect not clear travku, under its(his) statement it were mint and chebrets (I do not know, whether so it, but tea from it(her) became become bright).


Having passed(Having taken place) some more kilometers and having met lonely tourists, we, at last, send(have left) to a final point of our today's way. That speak, and the hike, is daily change of conditions. Here and today, we have stopped on coast of picturesque lake which was surrounded with a wood. At the left there was a source with unusually tasty water, and rocks on the right rose. In a combination to the coming sun, a kind, I shall tell to you, simply shaking(amazing;tremendous). Today we bathed and even with soap and shampoo. After bathing, the man's part has sprinkled on bushes - to collect fire wood. Because the code of conductors forbids to Andrey to take with itself a gas torch, and without fire wood, in this case, alas, a supper will not prepare. Having dried, the female half too has actively joined in process of preparation of a supper.

Having eaten and having got drunk to tea, it has been decided to play a mafia (who does not know rules, descend(go) in a hike, there you will learn). Game has once again confirmed, that women continue to remain the most artful and artful, advancing on it(this) to a post of all panthers and lynces from family cat's (Masha, respekt and uvazhuha). Game has ended already in full darkness, the fire practically pogas and noise of a strong wind in crones of trees practically completely absorbed all other wood sounds.

Morning has as usual begun with noisy sounds which the conductor published, doing(making) zarjadku and pouring cold water (+5!!) it is direct from a spring. It is a lot of having seen enough on this sentimental show and having had a bite, we, with already facilitated backpacks (stocks of meal thew) were put forward in a way. Today our road laid through the Valley of Reductions and any vysotku on which jarye lenintsy have established(installed) a red flag. We with Andrey on this vysotku have got, but a flag to touch did not become out of respect for марксистко-lenin ideology. Having trampled around of a flag, we again began to go down (Alla regretted most, that we so easily lose the height typed(collected) with such work). Have bypassed a rock Ekaterina's Head and have gone down in the Valley of Reductions.


Actually it is any not a valley, but a secret I shall not open, descend(go) in a hike and all will see. A little having taken rest, we have begun descent(release) which personally has made the biggest psychological impression upon me for all hike. Imagine flat enough descent(release), which from top to bottom usypan kamushkami, reminding balls from the bearing which at each movement slide downwards carrying away you behind itself. Not time the fifth point of this or that participant of descent(release) adjoined with terrestrial tverdju. In general when I have gone down downwards, I have sat down on a backpack and in a head there was a ringing emptiness and a sight is stupidly directed to space. Having had dinner under the canopy of trees, we have moved further.

Again, going on a stony track, coming into a wood, seeing far below the sea. On road have met three equestrians on horses. I even could not imagine, that horses "creep" on rocks almost as lizards. Today our spending the night was assumed in pine to a pine forest at falls Dzhurla where girls with inexhaustible enthusiasm lapped in cold water. Falls Dzhurla completely not big, but any sincere and almost native.

In the evening to us on a visit send(have come) the Americans, two brothers, they too travel across Crimea. Dejv, one of brothers long did not trust, that tablets (actually a substitute of sugar) which we offered it(him) is possible to use as sugar (I too would not believe as all thus giggled). In general, evening has passed(has taken place) in adjustment of tripartite attitudes(relations) of Ukraine, Russia and America and has ended with sincere conversation on quality and quantity(amount) of the drunk spirits.

In the morning of next day yet has not punched ten bottles, and we already walked on road. Today we saw (the some people even so-called Crimean geysers which, in general, any attitude(relation) to geysers in the standard sense of this word, attitudes(relations) have no were redeemed). Actually it a little small vodopadikov.


And again we went that upwards, downwards, through a wood, on rocks. The general(common) weariness today has already started to affect - jokes any more did not make laugh, and opening kinds did not make such impression as in the beginning of a way. By the end of day, we have reached village General, and up to the first shop for all five days of our way. Chaotic plunder (for money certainly) shop has begun. All was bought up by the gross, beginning(starting) from morozhennogo, and finishing(stopping) nutlets in kunzhute. Again with fairly potjazhelevshimi backpacks, we have begun an ascention to falls Dzhur-Джур.

Having spent the rests of forces after long day time transition, we were tumbled down on poljanke before an input(entrance) on territory of a falls. However, after a while reserve power supplies and have been found, having left two persons on duty in camp, we have set to a falls. Having paid an input(entrance), we have got on a falls. Overthrown streams of water from height of several meters, a rumble of water and foamy sparks scattering in the different parties(sides) are still that show.


Dzhur-Джур was deification of all us seen and, actually, our hike as those. Last joint evening has passed(has taken place) and cheerfully and sadly. Cheerfully because a fire because send in addition(have reached) because a wood and the star sky. And it is simultaneously sad, because, that all has ended, because, that we have ceased to be group, because, that tomorrow we shall part and never probably each other we shall see. In the morning we any more did not cook a porridge, hastily having had a bite, we have exchanged electronic addresses and have begun descent(release) in General. Therefrom we have reached up to Solnechnogorska, and then in Alushtu. There we have already said goodbye to Masha and Andrey - a conductor. Having remained seven together, we have rented the apartment in Alushte. We still all together descended(went) on the sea and have taken a walk on city. Next morning I have left from Crimea.

I thank all participants of a hike for everything, that we have together gone through. Separate thanks Andrey from Moscow and to Oleg with Alla, that the photos have allowed to use in the report.

Andrey, thanks you, you the excellent(different) person and a conductor. If I as have embellished in the story about you it has been made only out of respect for you and your inexhaustible sense of humour. Thanks you once again and up to new meetings!

Gaponenko Oleg
Melitopol 27.06.09