Memoirs of the trading clerk on a hike on June, 18th, 2006

на Демерджи I was not going to analyze the reasons which have pushed me, the homebody and even worse - the computer homebody, on such desperate step, as a hike on mountains for the whole week. But Cyril's question, our instructor-conductor has wakened memoirs on it(this). The decision ripened gradually, but vague desire to travel on foot (to be on the tramp?) was, apparently, always. After holiday in 2005 (lead extremely worthlessly) I have felt a sharp regret, that again I postpone all " on then ". Approximately then I have firmly solved, that following holiday I shall lead in a hike.

глубокий вдох the Route at me never caused doubts - mountain Crimea. The reason of such definiteness was impression of fleeting acquaintance to a plateau Ah Petri, owing to kanatnoj to road not-јЎЇ-in-каком-year. Me has amazed(struck) then contrast of cool, fragrant, dry air of a plateau in comparison with damp, hot, dense air of coast. And when I have seen any small houses on a plateau - envy forever has lodged in a shower(soul) at me to those who in them lives. And the desire is obligatory to visit these mountains once again.

If I had an experience - I would go itself (sometimes I love absolute loneliness). If I had friends or friends who love hikes - I certainly would go with them. Still it would be possible to look for adherents in city - but it demands time for searches of fellow travellers and confidence of the ability to keep up(get ready) in a way for skilled travellers.

на Чатырдаг Holiday, as always, has fallen down a head unexpectedly. Therefore for first time it has been decided to go to a "paid" hike. Having rummaged around on the Internet, I have come across this site. Conditions very much arranged me - and by and a guarantee of success for unprepared travellers and flexibility of a route.

I think, all told helps(assists) to understand, that besides aspiration to aesthetic pleasure from sensations, me moved desire to test and to find confidence for the future hikes.

Relatives and friends - same zashorennye people as well as I, dissuaded me very much: there one vagabonds, alcoholics and maniacs on mountains shljajutsja. To hear it it was ridiculous, for all similar categories of citizens will usually mix a little, moving on the closed trajectory of "cares". At the best - collect bottles at coast. But into mountains them you will entice nothing.

However poison of their doubts has filtered even through my impenetrable optimism, and at station of Simferopol I felt a little more nastorozhenno, than would like. Expected a dirty trick.

But fears have appeared are vain - appearance of our instructor - a conductor coincided and with my representations about normal skilled tourists. Comrades on a hike - pair from Moscow - too on vagabonds are not similar. Unless slightly on maniacs of tourism :-)

So, four together (Cyril, Ilya with Masha and), having bought(purchased) missing container for water in the form of two-liter bottles with mineralkoj and having distributed(allocated) products on backpacks, approximately at 14-00 have gone on marshrutke to village Perevalnoe. Before it(this) Cyril has insisted, that we have handed over superfluous tent in a left-luggage office. Us was four, and palatok - already on seven places. Cyril has given the double tent to Ilya and Masha, and my double has remained for me and Cyril. Firstly it seemed to me an excessive thrift - will think, only 3-4 kg …

дикие байкеры Marshrutka has taken us almost to the beginning " Ishachej tracks " on which we have risen on plateau chatyrdag-n®Ѕб. To me it was very heavy. The reason as it has appeared there was not only that I not a donkey, and not only in weakened(easied) the keyboard health, but also wrong carrying of a backpack. The backpack at me hung on shoulders, not leaning(basing) at all on a basin and krestets. It not only loaded shoulders but also complicated breath that is very important on rise. Except for that it has appeared, that rising on an abrupt track with a cargo behind shoulders it is impossible to walk widely is forces down breath and speeds up pulse. As a result of all my mistakes(errors), I probably looked(appeared) so painfully, that Cyril had to take away halfway up to a plateau from me a kettle and to give out a cargo easier. Here here with pleasure the tent left in Simferopol was recollected.

Rising upwards have met two motorcyclists-экстремалов who moved downwards. In my opinion it were absolutely mad people. Here with a backpack hardly you consult, that downwards has not dragged off, and they on motorcycles drive about!

Anyhow, but I all have crept on a plateau. Masha and Ilya, vigorously walking ahead have forced me to be indignant own weakness and to not lag behind. I would rise on a plateau all the day, it is not less. Here that the collective means! :-)

Almost right after rise cave emine-нбїУ-¬«нб (with the loud advertising name " the Cave of mammoths ") was found out. Here there was also a buffet. We have visited(attended) a cave. What to tell about a cave? I was not especially impressed. I do not love when are laid a step, in the necessary places it is illuminated and music plays. It would be desirable let deceptive, but sensations of the pathbreaker to climb with a small lamp, clinging to natural ledges and not noticing, that they are polished by thousand hands and legs(foots). "Casually" to encounter underground lakes, stalactites and stalagmites and bones of mineral animals. And that there was no buffet and asphalt. But alas, there's nothing to be done, on all you will not please.

I do not know, that has forced Cyril to change a route. Probably my inept ascention on Ishachej to a track? Or my exclamation at a kind of a ridge the Chatir-Dag: " Really we shall climb there?! " Anyhow, but on a ridge we have not got. To specify "why" I was not solved - we do not go and thank God, to climb 500 more meters upwards that seemed to me then if not madness time(temporary) turbidity of mind.

сидя на камне By the way, about mind. One of first my sensations in mountains - sensation of the negligibility. In city, in vanity among similar, the self-conceit can be inflated till the improbable sizes. The sea knee-deep. Mountains put all on the place. Firm postulates of atheism and cynicism at once give a crack. At once it would be desirable to trust, that someone kind looks after even with half an eye the fussy creations and in case of what, will provide "roof".

Already in the end of a hike, having typed(collected) the form, tested a vague regret what the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker has not climbed up mountain, and in the beginning I and to give a hint was afraid - suddenly will drag again uphill? But anyhow, it is necessary to recognize, that have correctly acted(arrived), having for the beginning limited to a plateau - to get used to mountains better gradually.

 Тисовое ущелье After a cave of Mammoths have moved on a plateau on the Southeast, in a direction to gorge Tissovomu. In passing send(have come) to a spring near the educational center to refuel water. Whether to go what to work there as the watchman? It is a pity to vacancy are already borrowed(occupied). Even a sentry dog probably will not take. :-) And I on a plateau here so would like to live very much …

As if(As) in reply to my complaints about lifelessness of a plateau and impossibility to extract(obtain) here food, have seen a hare, and after a while (can already on demerdzhah-n®ЅбХ?) and kosulja gracefully jumping up light back has skipped away from us in roshchitsu. Having had supper, have stayed the night somewhere near to descent(release) in Yew gorge.

Next morning, having had breakfast (when what exactly then we ate I I do not remember but it was marvellously tasty and is nourishing, have begun descent(release) on gorge.

мы оттуда? Yews on a track did not meet. Cyril and has told, that the name differs from a reality enough. Can, if I knew as the yew looks(appears), I and have noticed though one. Probably almost all of them have cut down because of value of wood. So the name " Beechen gorge " now would be more true. Now, having looked on the Internet, has found some lines that yews like would meet to the north of the basic track on gorge.

The beechen wood looked(appeared) very impressively, places simply fantastically. Only elfov did not suffice. Many beeches on a kind had considerable age. There was no necessity to pick trees a saw or an axe to understand how much dense and strong wood at them. Was a passing on these giant trees with a smooth bark enough. On trunks, a thin layer covered by spots(stains) of a lichen of different shades from light grey up to green, bearing(carrying) a huge heavy crone, did not leave doubts in the durability. However I have quickly got used to this all luxury and is impudent poper downwards.

Finally to orient and imagine the done way it was possible only having left from a wood on Angarsk pass. Looking it was not trusted back, that somewhere there above there is a site flat enough to begin descent(release) with a plateau. It has appeared, that after descent(release) we have passed(have taken place) through a saddle between mountain the Sugar head and a ridge the Chatir-Dag. In a wood it was absolutely not clear. And to arrange a halt it seemed to ask a card(map) inappropriate. Except for that it is difficult to find reference points in a wood to define(determine) the position on a card(map). In general, it is useful to look back sometimes back …

And again a little bit we climb uphill. But the track here does not go so abruptly upwards, and to me is already more habitual, than in the beginning.

бездорожье it was a pity at me not cards(maps) and I did not mark(celebrate) our way. Now, sitting at home, I not quite distinctly(clearly) can recollect a trajectory of our movement to southern and northern Demerdzhi. Such forgetfulness is promoted rather by a plenty of distracting factors: any flying predator zakogtil a birdy small, the thrown plantation of roses with a smell surprisingly similar to spirits and the grandmother collecting tsvetki for jam. I was ready to give all of money for one spoon of such jam, up to such degree it was represented tasty (and money I in a pocket had a little :-) I already I am silent about panoramas of mountains with the rocks having intricate names and the forms. In general all has somehow mixed up. Now our movings are represented so: after small rise from pass the track after descent(release) has turned all over again in soil and then halfway between villages the Lavender and Radiant - to the asphalted road.

Комсомолка, спортсменка, наконец просто красавица! it is a little having lead us on asphalt, Cyril has offered on a choice: to go through Radiant with call to shop or along a drying up stream to climb up a little upward and there to wait, while it(he) descends(goes) behind supplies in village. Asphalt together with village otvergli as inappropriate to spirit of an adventure. Having risen on a channel of a stream have made a halt for a dinner with a kind on the passed(taken place) way, a horse farm below and tiresomely high rocky mountain above us. It is necessary to tell, that all previous way I am internally constant nyl at an idea on forthcoming ascentions - city delicacy made itself felt. Sometimes my moaning broke through barriers outside in the form of playful (in process of forces) remarks such about maintenances(contents): " Well here, again uphill! ", " and on this way we precisely shall not lose the gained height? "

But after rise on plateau Demerdzhi adaptation has ended also to me already was almost all the same, uphill or downwards our way lays.

а до земли тут далеко? I Admit, I am egocentric. Therefore I pay attention on associates a little. But here should tell, that in my opinion, to Ilya has strongly carried with Masha. As comrade Saahov (see film " the Caucasian captive ") would tell: " Komsomolka, sportsmenka, at last simply beauty! " Alas, it is difficult to these out-of-date words to find a modern equivalent. But having returned to city and looking at girls of friends and not so, hardly I can present them in mountains, with a backpack above a head, on a steep slope and thus with a smile for the fifth day of travel.

The track on Southern Demerdzhi has seemed to me of the most abrupt and steep in a hike. It is a pity, that it proceeded not long. I so closely(attentively) looked under legs(foots) that was finally disoriented. When above, surveying picturesque rocks, we have met the tourist-single and peremolvilis with it(him) in pair words, I long could not believe, that we send(have come) from a slope opposite to finish. Северная демерджи Only having looked from above there and here, I was convinced, that our track surrounds a slope by a significant part of a circle. I do not think, that I shall strongly be mistaken, if I shall tell, that climbing up upwards we have described a semicircle.

Already for a long time and not I, had been beat a phrase " In mountains to eyes close, and to legs(foots) is far ". And for some reason on the contrary from above all seemed to me further, than is actually. With Southern Demerdzhi the distance up to the Alushta seemed to me equal ~30 km. Fellow travellers have assured me, that much less. I do not remember the figure named by Cyril, but the card(map) shows, that I was mistaken time in five. So next time when on other mountain to me have told, that in-about-it(-he) the sea in vicinities of Sevastopol there shines, I already did not doubt almost, that so it and is. And now I do not doubt.


            Here I with horror notice, that have missed outright in the grafomanskom an impulse. And whether will read up somebody up to the end?! Hardly. So I shall be brief.


Kameshki, travku, birdies and different odorous "florets-buttercups" I lower(omit).

купание в водопаде у костра was Northern Demerdzhi and its(her) plateau, mountain ozertso (moderately pure(clean) and moderately cold for dimensionless pleasure from bathing) Further. There was a descent(release) from a plateau to the whole river of potable water and along it(her) to falls Dzhur-Джур (for understanding it is necessary to tell, that I was gradually captured with water mania so having seen this a miracle-river I hardly have suppressed desire to lay down in it(her) and to drink, drink, drink even hour two. Water in the river, by the way drinking, and cold. Tasty. I so also have named it(her) - the Tasty river.) on a way to Dzhur-Джур we had an opportunity to behold a multistage falls which riches of paints and forms has liked me more than Dzhur-Джур. Smooth perekaty, a magnificent juicy-green moss on edges(territories) - all it to me is lovelier some stupidly falling water Джур-Jura. It is a pity only the tumbled down trees have impaired a little a kind a little. Though fellow travellers spoke on the contrary, that it is pleasant to them Dzhur-Джур more.

послеобеденный сон Near to a falls was wonderful poljanka where we after bathing in a falls have broken camp. Bathing in mountain small river, even in such concerning warm (I certainly understand, that our hike far is not extreme, and there are rivers more coldly) very much invigorates. To pass small river barefoot enough, and forces are restored by absolutely wonderful image.

Having curtailed(turned) camp (after mountains to sleep here it was unusually stuffy), with pleasure "have run" on plateau Karabi. It has appeared, that there is a top plateau and bottom. We have certainly got all over again on top - the excellent(different) kind on the bottom plateau therefrom has opened. It was one of those cases when I have regretted that has not taken the camera. Though I also do not collect chubby picture albums as many my friends and colleagues, nevertheless it is a pity a little.

вниз в ледяную пещеру the Part of the bottom plateau with top seems covered by smooth green hills on which and it would be desirable to roll about. It has appeared, that it to put it mildly not so. On the other hand the plateau this district looks(appears) a heap of rocks. Business is probable in movement of layers of rock at formation of a plateau. They as crawled against each other, yes and have fallen asleep, pretending smooth for the southern observer and opening stony edges(territories) at a sight from the north. On beauty of landscapes I would put Karabi on the first or second place in a hike (one place of a halt though it can was in the same place can be compared on my taste only? Cyril, you do not remember, on what mountain there was a monument to guerrillas? You about guerrilla air station told.).

After so picturesque, however(as) and pleasant descent(release) to the bottom plateau along rocky breakage we had to make a fair hook on Karabi, trying to discover convenient approaches to a place of spending the night - above B.Buzuluk's cave.

лед в июне добываем воду в пустыне лагерь спелеологов the Cave has had very opportunely - even in June in it(her) there was an ice, having reached up to which without special work, we could fill up the stocks of water. Here so. Have combined business with pleasure, that doubles prijatnost from descent(release) to a glacier :-) to Me here it was pleasant much more, than in "Mamontovoj" to a cave. And it in spite of the fact that was not necessary even to shine a small lamp so superficially we have glanced.

For next day we have crossed a plateau, having met there one turistku " a foot kind ", one turistku " a racing kind ", and one turistku " a lying kind in a shadow ". However, I suspect, that two last - splinters of huge collective of the cave explorers, built to myself camp on a slope of a beam near mountain Irtysh.

купание в речке Passing(Taking place) through this camp, I could not nadivitsja validity, from which it(he) is arranged if to compare to our easy(light) stops on a lodging for the night. Though that here surprising, considering how many on Karabi caves. It is possible "to climb and climb", though the whole month, yet will not bother. I speak it as the notable cave explorer who has made whole two (!) approaches to this question - the Emin-Bair-Hosar and B.Buzuluk. :-)

Unfortunately, the lake by which we went on a plateau by June already has dried up. So I and have not heard singing of high-mountainous toads, alas. But larks is as much as necessary.

спасибо что подвезли As the further hike passed(took place) on a wood and on mountain roads - me it(him) to describe does not pull. For me the basic generators of impressions were mountain plateaus, springs, the rivers and falls. In a word, " water and stones ". The beechen wood amazes all over again. And descent(release) through a beechen wood from plateau Karabi was any more so is bright. Though it is abrupt enough in the beginning. Have gone down, expiated in small river, and have gone(send) from Krasnoselovki on road to the sea. To move further on the east, to leave to the sea in area Sea it seemed already an excess. All already have slightly got tired and satiated with impressions. So without special meetings it has been decided to leave to the sea in area Privetnogo.

спустились ПРЯМО к морю On Thursday passing drivers have not picked up us. We also have stayed the night on the camp " the Bottom Cook-бЯбЎ " which has appeared marvellously equipped. Possibly someone the VIP-persons or wished to feed there shish kebabs any simply "necessary" people. In simple sense of duty of corresponding(meeting) services it is trusted hardly. To Friday have again moved on road to Privetnomu, having a good time on road disputes on the nature of morals, logic and knowledge. OtakOt, neither it is a lot of, nor a little. It would be not known up to what we have agreed, what opening would make, but we were picked up by the kind businessmen gone the same party(side) behind a cargo of wine(fault).

кемпинг в рыбачьем And already from Privetnogo on seacoast we a jog trot have hopped up to Fishing. On this site of a way I have noticed only one sight except for the sea - somewhere in area botanical zakaznika from steep coast runs strujka fresh water of unknown quality. Having come in Fishing I one of the first affairs have drunk desired yoghurt (kefir has not appeared and to search it would not be desirable). Well and certainly, it was expiated in the sea. Slightly having become bored(having missed) on a civilization, we have put tents on a beach in tent small town. In the morning on Saturday Ilya with Masha have left to have a rest on more southern coast of Crimea. Cyril, last time having welded(cooked) the remarkable porridge, too has gone on the affairs. And I have remained to sunbathe and bathe.

Beside in tent there lived two girls from Kherson and Nikolaev. Possibly they szhalilis above the exhausted traveller and when I have offered them the rests of fire wood (the kettle at me was not and the fuel collected on the eve has lost for me the value) have directly insisted on that I usilenno ate (it has appeared they prepared " vegetable sote with mussels ").

море, как море the Sea was very quiet, water very warm and transparent. All is ideal. But something did not suffice. Having stayed all the Saturday long in blazhennom inactivity on a beach of tent small town, I have suddenly felt, that " the wind of wanderings continues to push me in a back ". That there is no habitual sensation of a backpack behind a back and a wet T-short from sweat. On Sunday in the morning I have collected tent and have prepared for an independent hike on coast in a direction of the Alushta. Girls have fairly warned, that I on a way to the Alushta am am trapped with two dangers: sanatorium " Moscow " on which beach of strangers protection and a wild nudist beach does not start up. I and have not understood, that they wished to tell it(this). Can " remain, kamrad, we marry you … "? More likely, by is slightly sympathetic(slightly sympathetically)-contemptious: " Probably you search for unifications with the nature in loneliness? ", they have accepted me for the potential nudist looking associates.

I have safely bypassed a beach of sanatorium of a strict mode, and here of a nudist beach me in vain frightened - on all way up to the Alushta I have counted only 5-7 nudists scattered anyhow on all extent of a way. And about absence of the camera has regretted only time - already in vicinities of the Alushta me has managed simultaneously with two (again, ah yes I!) Nice girls to choose a deserted site of a beach between two breakwaters. To not impose the society on a close beach, I have politely got on the middle of a breakwater and there have located. My surprise of what these two have decided to black out sunburn of 100 % of a surface of the leather(skin) was much weaker than my regret about incorrectly chosen disposition and absence of the camera. All previous nudistki caused only feeling of easy(light) fastidiousness. And here the chaos from muzhiks on quay which that collected resolved is indicative even. I was a pity far and did not hear dialogues. How it was possible to seductresses otshit "rascals"? However I not long remained the unique constant spectator of delightful calls "to be bought". Nabezhalo the big noisy family with children, nudistkam was necessary to put on partially, vopshchem " has passed(has taken place) love, zavjali tomatoes ". I have gathered and have left(abandoned) this spontaneously arisen sight of the Alushta.

врагу не сдается наш гордый варяг.. And up to the Alushta I have reached with a unique stop on a lodging for the night - it seems in area Semidvorja. There near to my tent there was a sculpture of an eagle, and on the next mountain - a sculpture something four-footed, probably a deer. Generally I wished to stop a little bit earlier. But there was the heat, promised the card(map) ozertse had appeared dried up not less than month back, and I have not dared to develop(unwrap) tent in such conditions I have understood how important precisely to time transition that the good parking lot was reached(achieved) by the end of day instead of to poludnju. Besides I have noticed new inhabitants of Crimea (before there were only birds, lizards, a hare and kosulja) - field mice. Being afraid for the grocery stocks has decided to move further. And has reached up to semidvorja and next day the Alushta.

The Alushta has strongly enough changed. I it(her) saw last time about 15 years ago. Directly the sea had different dear(expensive) institutions, sanatoria, hotels.

Whether I have underestimated speed of the moving, whether have overestimated distance, but by a dinner on June, 26th I have rested against the end of quay Alushtinskoj. Further to go desires was not, to come back to semidvorju - too, and other good parking to me did not come across. So popleskavshis in the sea till the evening, I have gone home.


Certainly, our hike can seem to skilled travellers Sunday picnic, but for me it(he) became test. Be it(he) though on third more difficultly - and I could surrender somewhere in the middle of a way.


Some moments which I have thoughtlessly neglected though realized:

- Before a hike it is desirable though a few(a little;little bit) to sunbathe, that the leather(skin) has learned to synthesize a protective pigment - differently it is necessary to refuse in order to prevent burns shorts and sleeveless jackets.

- Before a hike even month needs to be run intensively every day in the morning and in the evening.

- Buy(Purchase) in Simferopol last edition of a card(map) for tourists - "independently" to lay a route and finding out the mistakes(errors) much poznavatelnee. Not for disputes with a conductor, and pleasures for.

- Try to take with itself the camera.


At last I at home.

With impatience I wait for following holiday. :-)

On July, 04th, 2006