August in Carpathians

the Report on a campaign across Carpathians on August, 15-20th 2010г, a route "Above falls".
I have got to Carpathians unexpectedly enough. In a campaign gathered, it is true, but to Crimea. And here, when tickets already were on hands, with holiday the question is solved also things are almost combined, in connection with fire-dangerous conditions access to the Crimean woods has been closed. What to do? Cyril has recommended to look at Carpathians, the blessing exit date on a route coincided. In Carpathians I was not, and, after some fluctuations have decided that it is necessary to visit there. And here, at last, after vanity with an exchange of tickets, gathering, moving - Ivano-Frankovsk. On station divergently, being sometimes crossed, groups same, as well as I, fidgets with the backpacks, everyone behind the conductor scurry about (it was thought: as chickens for a brood hen))))). Tourists I Simultaneously am so much still anywhere did not meet. The most part with backpacks, but, I look, to a left-luggage office children bicycles have dragged - at them the program. And, of course, does not do without «матрасников» - beach umbrellas, shorts, hats, a heap of things - a full set! Where, interesting, they are going to sunbathe? Has decided not to ask))))

In the appointed place I find the group. It appears, the company at us has gathered basically the female. We get acquainted, I shift things in a backpack (at me the while is not present so children have rented). After Sashej is our conductor - we stamp to parking of minibuses. We are loaded into one of them - the driver while is not present. But here it, at last, appears with pies in hands, sees decently so the loaded car (backpacks on hands and in passes) eyes are approximated: «It шо? It to me? And where we go?» We explain - where, he calms down and even kindly agrees to bring up us to the route beginning. Here thanks! So, - in a way! Quickly enough we reach to Pasechnoj, from here and our travel will begin!))))



Here we in the beginning of our way. We keep within, once again all we check, we change the shoes, for whom it is necessary - and we stamp at first on a dirt road, and then on a stony channel of the river. The uprooted trees, the broken branches - see come across, what strong here there is a current! But now all silently. So, not especially hurrying up, we reach a place of our first spending the night at falls of Buhtivets. Without reaching we do a small stop at a well a little - to drink водички. Tasty!)))) we take a little with themselves.

Here it, - Buhtivets, - our first falls. Grows dark, after a supper we go down to bathe in obzhigajushche-cold streams of its grey-haired beard. Noise of 11 metres of streams falling from height muffles all other sounds around, is reflected from stone walls of gorge. In raging water stream appear and freakish outlines of any images, unsteady and constantly changing disappear. In coming twilight all it creates what sensation of presence - the ancient forces from time immemorial storing these places.

Absolutely nearby, if to face Buhtivtsu on the right, there are one more falls, which name, I, unfortunately, do not know, but which was pleasant to me even more. Gorge walls part also with a stone semicircle surround it. If it and below the basic falls, ненамного. Squirts gracefully fall in a small lake. If nymphs in these parts live (and, can, повитрули?))) they have for certain lodged here. In twilight falling threads of water seem blue. Silent murmur of a streamlet. Зависшая in calm a water dust, dew settling on leaves, mosses both our hair and clothes. So it is quiet and so it is beautiful. Two falls nearby - and such different …. Wild force of raging Buhtivtsa and gentle grace of these mysterious anonymous falls. Инь and Jan.

The first our spending the night has passed rather easy. Rather - because at night near to tents someone rustled with the garbage which has remained from our predecessors, something dug and dropped (judging by sounds). To leave tents we did not become, so the night visitor and remained the unknown person. In the morning near to a wooden bench we have found out the crumbed rests of small loafs which we have forgotten to clear the table. The mysterious visitor the hungry has not left.)))))))

Next morning - in a way. There were we on spurs of a ridge of Chertka. The weather pleased, looked round on the parties and enjoyed opening kinds. Today we were waited by a pleasant surprise: slopes of mountains are covered by blackberry thickets. Just up the time of our campaign of a berry have kept up, were poured by sweet juice. On the way we some times did stops and regaled.



Whence from the childhood the forgotten poem was remembered for a long time:

On a footpath with a blackberry
The hedgehog has met Vikoj.
You what for, - have asked Vick, -
So колюч, how a blackberry?
And then, - the hedgehog has answered, -
With a blackberry we are similar,
That girls and wolves
Did not pry into needles

Needles really were, but not too prickly so they to us at all did not disturb)))) this day we have bypassed Bzinkovachku and left to Manjavsky falls, the biggest on our route. I all tried to photograph it, but completely it in any way in a shot did not hold, so I have made a panorama. Here it what. Near it we were photographed.



To talk close it is absolutely uneasy - noise of falling water muffles all sounds - it is necessary to shout. The wind walking on gorge, picks up a water dust and throws on us. On slippery stone walls here and there - small, hardly exuding streamlets.

Hardly above on a current of mountain small river - some more small водопадиков. It is pleasant to be freshened after a difficult way to a secluded creek. Here we with pleasure have bathed.)))) at night, when fires any, in impression gorge absolutely fantastic. The falls rumble penetrates all surrounding space and it at all do not hear, and perceive all over. In dense mobile darkness - constantly moving whitish contours of a falling raging stream. It is a little imagination - and it is possible to see everything, everything. And to feel. On the present. It becomes a little horrible. Somewhere away above - a small slice of the night sky with bright scattering of stars. On the way back small lamp light snatches out from darkness a wreath and a dagger on a rock ledge - the name is not present. Someone's way has ended here ….

We come back to tents, to a fire, to light. In our world familiar and habitual. Fire wood cheerfully crackles, tells the stories. And we - the. Fiery сполохи dance on coals. Overflowed with impressions, we are bedded down. Tomorrow new day.



Since morning - a tasty breakfast, and - in a way, on a ridge of Chertka. Cloudy, grey shaggy clouds absolutely low go down to us. These places remind me a taiga - elegant russulas on soft moss bright green pillows, the cowberry, truth comes across, here it has not ripened yet.



Slopes are covered by dense wood, from different directions we are surrounded with harmonous trunks of pines and fur-trees, differently - смерек. They so densely to each other stand that light does not reach the earth, and the bottom branches dry up without sun rays. Sometimes in gleams to us the magnificent kind on mountains opens. We get out on Ripna in the afternoon. Here even since war the strengthenings combined from huge stones have remained. Had a little a rest on нагретых the sun boulders. Some so big that on them it is possible to be stretched to the utmost and to observe of running clouds. A silent rustle of a wind and singing of birds. Even to present difficult that in such beauty there can be any military operations. The blasphemy is simple.

Stones live, shake underfoot, in places are covered by a moss, therefore we go carefully. From mountain we go down in a small river Hrepeli valley, on the way again regaled on berries (a blackberry, a bilberry) and насобирали excellent ceps! Already on parking, in the evening, cleaned them.



In the evening have met the shepherds who have treated us with milk and cream, Vitaly and Vasily. Here thanks them big! Pair milk - simply super! Besides, it appears, in a marching kettle ceps with cream - improbably tasty thing! Not only «fingers you will lick», and you will simply bite off!)))) Perhaps because collected everything, can, because all prepared - who cooked, who - bore (for one evening have not coped) who cleaned and who extinguished - to everyone something has got. And can, all business in inexpressible charm of Carpathians, in warmth of an evening fire and the sincere company. But - I recommend to all!))))



Next morning we were waited by heavy lifting on Stanimir, but here to us has simply improbably carried - almost to the very top of us have thrown on local transport (I do not know how this huge car is called) the local residents who have met very opportunely. We were very grateful to the Novel and its friends, especially, when have seen, with their help we so have easily overcome what difficult site of a way. (Galja, thanks for a photo of this wonderful car!) as a matter of fact, it even not the way was at all, and any continuous obstacle))))))



In the afternoon have stopped to have a bite on a grief Katerina at родничка (water in it very tasty).Пасшиеся nearby horses examined us with unostentatious curiosity. All liked a naughty foal with an amusing tail - метелочкой, frolicing near to the careful mum. It seems, she tried not to admit it to us too close.)))) saw on the way as local residents collect a bilberry. Hands - too long so they have adapted small self-made boxes with frequent combs as though scoop berries them. The bilberry - a berry very tasty but to collect her hands on one - employment long and improbably tiresome. I had to do it and who did not collect - take a word, a comb much faster and more conveniently)))).



Around, where you will not look - the magnificent view on majestic mountains opens simply. They have published seem blue. Even in photos this colour is visible, I hope, after processing it will remain. Great pleasure after difficult transition (we before it clambered upwards on stone scatterings) to have a bite at родничка, glancing at the world from height of the bird's flight! Besides, such tasty sandwiches from canned food and картоннообразных хлебцов can turn out only in a good campaign!)))) fingers you will lick!

Have stayed the night on полонине Vivchina. Before us in all greatness Gorgany were stretched. That is surprising: in mountains when you look where it is necessary to reach, apparently, that it absolutely nearby - no distance. And then you go, you go - and the end-edge it is not visible to this way. So "approximately" to define distance it is very difficult. And here - here they, Gorgany, nearby absolutely and as I will present, how many it is necessary to pass, that all to see - no holiday will suffice!))))

On this parking it was far to a spring. To us have shown on the next slope - there on water will pass, there is closer. How to look - like and nearby, - and how to go - so half-hour, apparently, to one party. Well, or it so seemed to me)))))



Here the weather has a little changed: all the rain tried to break, but somehow did not leave at it. Before us the standing mountain as if planted dense thunderclouds over us in the parties, leaving over us a slice of the clear sky. The chilly drizzle broke a little, but under trees was dry, though is windy. Perhaps, to us carried in this campaign - both a weather good, and the local population concerned us very benevolently. Girls from the next farm in the evening again treated us with pair milk.))))) in the distance came back home косари, and over полониной the lingering Ukrainian song beautifully sounded. It is a pity, far, words not to disassemble was.



At a dawn we were woken by an inquisitive horsy - wandered on camp and tried to glance in tent. As a result, who of whom was frightened more - not to understand: little girls from unexpectedness, having opened tent and having seen directly before itself a curious horse muzzle, have begun to squeal, the horsy for the same reason quickly and has far escaped. Have got acquainted)))).

Strong having had breakfast, have moved further, on mountain Gavor, and further, on Korotkan. Here we were expected by one more remarkable adventure - гойдалка. Between two very tall trunks someone equipped a swing. On long cables, metres on 10, and, can, and it is more, between two very tall trunks have fitted a very narrow plate. Here it to all swing a swing! The spirit grasps! And apparently it is far! To keep only it is necessary more strong.)))))

Накатавшись and having laughed, went now downwards, to a small river Salatrugel valley. It seems, it here we have found out thickets of a mountain raspberry. Berries not large, but very sweet and fragrant. Climatic belts in mountains are very brightly expressed: On Katerine the bilberry only has kept up, and the blackberry and at all green was. And here the bilberry has departed already, but blackberries again was much. Tasty it here.))) we Have stayed the night near falls of Salatruk. Went to the nearest shop (it to local measures nearby, and on ours - very much even it is far))))) in the evening), have brought a little tasty - last spending the night.

And there was a rain at night. It seems, Carpathians have suddenly thought suddenly: how it us to release dry?! Also have decided to correct a situation a little. However, this invention is not too daring: there was a hot fire, pelmeni, a water-melon (it seems, the most tasty for all life!), and the a bit late birthday. Next morning - Bystritsa and moving to the ancient and beautiful city of Ivano-Frankovsk.

And further - to whom where: someone home, someone has continued travel. Here our group: Таня, Inna, Tanja, Denis, Julja, Anja, Galja, Sasha (our brave conductor-instructor), Dasha, Anja, hardly above - the Pope. And I - with фотиком so me it is not visible.))))



Certainly, I have not written here about all those sensations and impressions which accompanied us throughout all way. About something little girls have already told in ЖЖ, it would not be desirable to repeat, all photos simply would not hold. Any has still placed on the page in "Contact", can, still I will add. There were many interesting and ridiculous episodes. There were games and heart-to-heart talks at a night fire, unexpected finds and new acquaintances.

I do not know, whether there will be we still and if we will gather, where and when? Who knows … Thanks you for all time, so well spent together, for the cheerful and amicable company! To a meeting!))))

Victoria Pogodin. Donetsk., on August, 15-20th 2010г.