Dark blue mountainsthe Response about a campaign «the Highest tops of Ukraine», 20 - on June, 25th, 2010.
Perhaps, I will begin from the very beginning - time dopohodnogo. This time includes also tourist meetings at school, and university runaways from pairs in the spring to Crimea, and constant presence of thought: «Instead of whether to go to us somewhere?». But, at any vital stage all it shrouds a life and monotony fog: the backpack appears presented to someone as superfluous, the tent has definitively dampened on a summer residence, friends prefer sea tour in five-stars hotels … And you in heart still has pressing melancholy behind clouds, a wind, a smoke of a fire and freedom … The author: Valentina Torohty, Kiev
Response about a campaign «the Highest tops of Ukraine», 20 - on June, 25th, 2010
Perhaps, I will begin from the very beginning - time dopohodnogo. This time includes also tourist meetings at school, and university runaways from pairs in the spring to Crimea, and constant presence of thought: «Instead of whether to go to us somewhere?». But, at any vital stage all it shrouds a life and monotony fog: the backpack appears presented to someone as superfluous, the tent has definitively dampened on a summer residence, friends prefer sea tour in five-stars hotels … And you in heart still has pressing melancholy behind clouds, a wind, a smoke of a fire and freedom …
The unexpected meeting with the acquaintance (which a year for an ascension to Elbrus trains) was a starting point for acceptance of my decision. It was the little girl whom at the desire of her parents I looked after in a campaign Carpathians. Then it was not skilled and weak. And now I have seen before myself the purposeful person with shine in eyes which amplified at stories about its travel.
And listening to it, at me in a head the accurate and clear thought was generated: «I go to mountains, I want again pochuvst-vovat myself live and free». So my history begins.
Having settled questions with week holiday on work, I was accepted to preparation for a campaign. I can assure you that prepared from zero. peresherstila a heap of forums and the sites devoted tourist snarjazhe-niju, has visited a number of sports shops. All it was accompanied by giggling of little girls on work (by the way, guys supported), bewilderment of the native. I courageously bypassed in shops departments with new kol-lectures of T-shirts, dresses and barefoot persons. Instead tried on everything that is necessary for the present priklju-chenija. A number successful (and not so) purchases became a result. I hasten to share my subjective nabljude-nijami, can to someone will be useful.
Backpack. Terra Incognita Trial 75 - ekspeditsionno-trekkingovyj a backpack in volume of 75 litres. From my point of view not so successful straps. They are narrowish. And if the backpack is more 10 - 15 kg aloud press on shoulders. If of it be not afraid - take, and in the rest - convenient enough.
Sleeping bag. Took from the girlfriend. Pinquin. Micra. Easy - 950 the Temperature range: +25°С / + 2°S/extreme-5°C. At the raised humidity and temperature +5°С (we have got to such weather conditions) from a cold did not rescue. If not to get with weather - it is possible to take. But, I have decided to buy become warmer.
Footwear. The choice and purchase of footwear for me have appeared the most difficult moment. Boots for a trekking were not pleasant - in them felt inconveniently and in an ankle pressed. Has stopped on krossovkah - La Sportiva Sandstone Woman. Membrane Gore-tex and sole Vibram is used. Thanks to a platform, the foot on stones did not slide, in heavy weather conditions water inside did not squelch, though feet were wet. It membrannaja footwear, with it it is necessary to manage correctly. I have made an error - dried near fire. One krossovok inside was a little deformed. It was necessary to dry a paper or on itself, but … On errors study. Spare pair were krossovki firms ECCO. They were comprehended by the same fate - has overdried. It has led to the crushed fingers and bloody callosities. Protect feet.
T-shirts. In a backpack I had 4 T-shirts: 2 termo - +2 cotton. ThermoT-shirts namo-kali from sweat also as well as cotton, but dried up faster. Their one more advantage is the small weight. Most likely, in the future campaigns I will refuse a clap absolutely.
Flisovaja jacket. Has bought usual, on the lock, without pockets. Pockets did not suffice, constantly it would be desirable to warm there hands or to put any rubbish. The jacket of light blue colour (little girls will understand me), but … in couple of days it has got a brown shade. Therefore, it is better to take clothes darken.
Storm jacket. It should become the main my protection against a rain and a wind, and became a huge problem. Firm "Outventure" jacket, water resistance of waters of 8000 mm. The item, paropronitsaemost 1000 g/m2/24 ch (the typing error can on a label?). On paropronitsaemost I have not paid attention. And in vain... The Jacket was constantly wet - from sweat, a rain and a moisture. It simply did not dry up, thus very much grew fat. Yes, we have got to difficult enough weather conditions, but that the jacket dried 3 days and I have not dried out … here was in confusion.
Trousers (trousers). Took 2 steams: 1 clap + 1 synthetics. The clap was useful for warming. But I predpo-read to carry the synthetic. Now new technologies allow synthetics to breathe. Dry faster. Lungs.
Bahily. Second has not regretted about this acquisition. Protected from an ubiquitous dirt, from I get-Russian cabbage soup a moisture, from tenacious branches and a stinging nettle.
Trekkingovye sticks. At me they were not. Sasha allowed to me to use the. That's quite something! Really improve rate of movement, reduce loading by knees, prevent falling. And here, I in the list of the future purchases had a new point.
The first-aid set. It was the first in my list of purchases. The long break in campaigns has led to display of internal uncertainty in the forces and health. In general, I had medicines practically for all occasions. Did not suffice only … a scalpel. And it is all it was necessary to drag … Therefore, children, without the fan-tizma - take only necessary.
Lantern, knife, matches. The lantern is necessary. Better nalobnyj that hands were free. At me was Petzl Tikkina 2 - nalobnyj a lantern with two light-emitting diodes and two modes of illumination. The knife was not useful. Matches has got class - hunting. I adhere to thought that a match necessary object of your backpack. Even, despite of presence of gas torches and ogniva. By the way, matches were useful to us.
A month before a campaign I looked out for weather forecasts on various sites. And seeing unfavourable pictogrammes "rain", "thunder-storms", "cloudy" tried to calm itself - meteorologists are mistaken, in mountains all is unpredictable. These sad badges have not affected in any way my decision - to go. I had one only thought: «Though would not cancel a campaign». The prospect to become wet especially did not frighten.
At station I was met by a mountain guide of Sasha and has informed that we wait for two more children from Moscow. And all … the Others, having studied a weather forecast, most likely have changed the mind. In some hours have arrived Maxim with son Egor. Our adventure has begun.
Day the first: Ivano-Frankovsk - a check point of "Keveliv" - somewhere in Karpatsky biospheric reserve.
Usually the First day always fussing and organizational. It is the First day in a kindergarten, at school, at institute, on rest and even in home life. Did not become an exception and our day. After backpacks have appeared in a back part of the bus (which should deliver us to route start) and we have cosy taken place in armchairs, we had to leave these means of transportation. The cashier on road service station has not estimated ukrainojazychnye ability of Russian-speaking Sashi and, having mixed names "Kvass" and "Kosiv", has given out tickets in other direction. Under snickers of other tourist's group and mutter of the driver we is proud have left the bus. A pair of clocks by other convenient bus - and we have approached on the beginning of our route - a check point of "Keveliv".
The road to a spending the night place passed wood roads of Karpatsky biospheric reserve. The first the slopes of mountains covered smerekovymi with woods (occupy 40 % mountain karpatskih woods) are evident. What for a tree such - smereka? All is very simple. In Ukraine the fur-tree usual or European (Picea abies) is extended. And here in Carpathians and Prikarpatye a fur-tree name smerekoj. A name origin connect with constant duskiness (insufficient quantity of light) which dominates in is dark-coniferous fir forests. Smereka can reach heights of 40-50 m and mainly lives till 200 years. Nabljuda-telnye people have noticed that to dry weather of a branch of a tree fall downwards, and in crude, before a rain - on-turn, rise upwards. Needles grow practically on a spiral, from different directions branches, and it distinguishes smereku from a fir. At it the most thin and fragile, but at the same time and the most prickly needles. By the way, aura of this tree very strong. At direct contact force smereki will carry away irritation and disappointment. Therefore, I rekomen-blow - approach and embrace her.
I have come to a conclusion, what exactly dark green colour smereki in a combination to the blue sky and prozrach th air is painted by the Ukrainian Carpathians in beautiful dark blue colour. And walking wood roads, and standing at top of Goverly, and rolling in a grass polonin, I as got repeated: «Yes they - dark blue!» Having endured transition on a log through a mountain stream, abrupt (as then it it seemed to me) lifting on a slope our command has approached to a spending the night place. Having tried tasty macaroni with tushenkoj (prepared Sashej), we who were tired, were filled up to sleep. I turned and long could not fall asleep, touching in a head of event of the last day and worrying before lifting on mountain Petros - one of the highest tops of the Montenegro ridge.
Day of the second: somewhere in Karpatsky biospheric reserve - ur. Keveliv - somewhere on polonine - Petros (2020) - somewhere on polonine.
And here there has come disturbing day for me. Whether I will consult? After a breakfast at me the unexpected meeting has taken place. Near to our tents the mountain stream proceeded. There I also have gone to wash ware. Has suddenly heard a crunch of branches and a rustle of leaves. Has lifted a head and has seen that above on a slope, in metres of fifteen costs and the wild wild boar stares at me. I look away. In a head there was a thought: «it is interesting, I will have time to reach to children?». While to run sense I do not see, I continue to wash a plate.
For a second in a head the information - fast, strong emerges, is able to float, has good hearing and a scent, and here sight bad. About sight precisely I remember. Again I lift a head - smot-rit. Fortunately, I was not object of its interest, therefore the wild boar grandly and has slowly left. I too grandly also have slowly returned to camp, dreaming, that on a back at me eyes have grown. Children somehow have absolutely inertly reacted to my message - whether have not woken up still, whether often meet these animals. But, on the other hand, me pleases that in woods still it is possible to meet representatives of fauna.
The further our way passed natural boundary Keveliv wood. To majestic smereke shades-styj a beech, a hornbeam and javor were added. Here we have met a lily wood - a unique kind of lilies which grows in Ukraine in a wild-growing condition. This plant is brought in the Red book of Ukraine. Before giving a hand and breaking this wonderful flower stop and think: «What for?» . When we at last have come out of the wood, to our look grey wooden buildings - high-mountainous cowsheds have opened. Since spring till the autumn on subalpine meadows vypasaetsja cattle. Having seen high-mountainous stalls, mozhna to feel and feel live spirit old karpatskih traditions. Emerald tapes karpatskih meadows penetrate a range from plains to tops. The flora most part make endemicheskie kinds, that is kinds which grow only in East Carpathians. It is a rhododendron karpatsky - a bush with is clear-pink small florets (from which in Romania cook tasty jam), an euphorbia karpatsky, a sorrel karpatsky, etc. Passing poloninami, we beheld this variety of grasses and colours, savoured the crystal-clear air filled with their aromas.
The mountain Petros gradually came nearer, and together with it mad change pogo-dy … In any 10-15 minutes the sky came nearer also has changed colour: with is bright-blue on dark blue. The Southwest wind has brought low clouds which have covered tops. We get to a cloud. Though also a cloud it is difficult to name this continuous white haze. A fog steletsja pelenoju. It becomes cool and rises a wind. I follow children who already through five metres are dissolved in a white haze. I remember Stephen King's story "Fog". In the story the city has covered a strong fog together with which the extremely unfriendly creatures … We slowly there have come, but confidently we move ahead a track to top of Petrosa. Sasha worries: «Keep each other, it is possible to be lost». Flaws and a rain amplify. On narrow footpaths we see set of mountain colours: a rhododendron karpatsky, arnica mountain, a dream white.
But, now not to beauty - sosredoto-chenno I look under feet. The final piece of a route passes on an abrupt slope of mountain. Suddenly we stop - have reached! It was our first taken Height! Its surface consists from kameni-styh, rocky sites. At top of Petrosa there are ruins of a chapel and a cross crumpled by elements. The top peak is noted by a pyramid (tour) from stones in height about 1,5 metres, combined by tourists. Unfortunately, the surrounding panorama has been latent by a fog. There was no sense to remain long at top, and we have begun descent with Petrosa. He very abrupt also demands mobilisation of forces and attention. Our movement was complicated strong heavy by a wind and a rain. Feet constantly slide on the wet earth and stones, podgi-bajutsja for weariness. We look only downwards, choosing a stone, on which it is possible to put a foot not to slip.
After long descent and movement in a fog of Sasha has resulted us on poloninu where shepherds have allocated to us a small house for a doss house (kolybu). Kolyba was awful: close, within the precincts of a crack in two fingers, from a roof water dripped. For an additional chocolate (running currency) to us have brought an armful of fire wood. As burzhujka in a small house was faulty, the smoke corroded to us eyes, and fire wood has quickly burnt down and has not given long-awaited heat. The moisture was groundless, and to the blotted dirty clothes not destiny there were to dry up some more days. But, then we did not know it …
And only late at night, drinking tea and eating sweets, children could congratulate me on day of physiognomies-denija …
Day the third - the fourth: somewhere on polonine - ekopunkt "Crosspiece".
Morning has not brought any changes in weather: around there was a fog veil, it was drizzling, under a foot y the dirt champed. The dirt for me in a campaign became something especial: it was with me always. The cores grunty in Carpathians - brown. They have received the name for characteristic yellow-pale-yellow or brown colour which is caused glinoobrazovaniem and the raised quantity of connections of iron. Here also go-suited bahily. They have incurred the basic grjazevyj blow. But, nevertheless, I had to clean every day and bahily, and trousers. Children, in my opinion, especially not zamorachivalis (whether they went akkurat th?).
More close by noon it is taken away nedosushennye things from shepherds and we begin movement in a direction to Go-verle. We knead feet a dirt, we become wet in the rain. Flaws amplify - as though are going to knock you down. Clouds fall even more low. Sasha the decision to wait elements revelry in ekopunkte "Crosspiece" makes.
There we also go. To us has carried. In a small house it was dry and it is empty. There is an oven. Nakryva-whether even in the spring its iron sheets. The heated iron gave to travellers desired heat. Alas... These sheets it is not known where were gone. Warm our fire disappeared in a pipe. Therefore, all tried to keep more close to a spark as on distance of one metre from an oven scolded a shiver. After a while at a door were knocked. So, thanks to a bad weather, we have got acquainted with wonderful people - Inna and Yaroslav, veloturistami from Kiev. These people under own initiative clean slopes of Carpathians Mountains from garbage which take out by own cars. You know a lot of such lju-dej.? To me has had the luck.
The heavy wind has amplified. A door have adhered to a hook, but it constantly clapped. Shutters under a strength of wind were closed - practically two days we sat in a small house at a candle and small lamps. At night elements razgu-ljalas at the full capacity. Even it was terrible to think that was there, behind a door.
The third and fourth marching day came to an end equally - to the accompaniment of mine, I do not get-shchih against each other teeth... In the Morning of pairs brought down from a mouth. All wet things which have been hanged out in a small house, for a night prak-ticheski did not dry out. In hundred metres from us there were those children, from the bus. They too have got to god th alteration. They had a small meteorological station. On the thermometer in first half of day was +5°С. Summer …
We were warmed by tea. I did not drink such quantity of this drink never in life. Especially there was a taste th tea from leaves of a raspberry, a bilberry and chabretsa which were dug by Inna from bushes growing nearby. So, our small otsidka as a result has turned in two spending the night. Strangely enough, these two days have flown by quickly enough - conversations, kettle washing, an oven fire chamber, meal preparation, delivery of water and again conversations …
Day the fifth: ekopunkt "Crosspiece" - Goverla - Breskul - Pozhizhevsky - Turkul-polonina Tourist's-Kulsky - with. Goverla
Morning. Has woken up with I think: «Can today will carry …?». I do not remember, who the first has opened a door of our refuge. But, that we have seen in a doorway has called an amicable sigh of simplification. The fate all the same has decided to take our side - by a small house with huge speed clouds rushed. There were only not-considerable fog rags. For the first time for two days I have seen surrounding panorama: freshness of the morning mountains, far settlement Jasinja, the sky over a head. Quickly we gather. At last we on a route. From a chapel near ekopunkta "Crosspiece" on a track we begin movement on the western spur of Goverly. Quickly enough we leave to its bottom and we rise to a small house ekopunkta "Goverla" where we arrange a halt.
At lifting on an open slope the strong wind blows, therefore we are warmed. We go on a stony track. I look back downwards - quickly as if ants, catch up with us any people. There were tourists from Slovenia - pension age. Yes... It would be desirable also for me so to run on mountains at their age. The last of 500 metres before top the most abrupt. And here long-awaited Height! On it there is a trident, a cross, about-znachajushchy top of mountain and an obelisk specifying the highest point of border passing here once between Poland and Czechoslovakia.
The most beautiful panorama was indemnification for the last days, having opened-shaja before us. From top of Goverly almost all Ukrainian Carpathians are visible. On the southeast the Montenegro ridge, the highest in Ukraine lasts-. In the southwest tops of Marmoroshsky mountains on which there passes border with Romania become blue. On the northwest the small ridge, connecting Goverlu to Petrosom lasts.
On Goverle we have stayed minutes twenty. Had a rest, posnimali vicinities and memorable signs and... Downwards. Southern descent to a ridge has appeared much more difficult the western lifting. The first 800 m of descent with fish-traps ths pass on very abrupt, stony slope. After descent lifting on Breskul (1950) begins. The following jerk - and we on Pozhezhevsky (1822). By the way, on a crosspiece, on slopes of this mountain saw small snezhnik.
Ridge footpaths are noted by concrete boundary columns. On stolbi-ke on the one hand a Latin letter «P», with opposite - «S». Letters specify the territories which were prinad-lying according to Poland and Slovakia. Basically, tracks go on poloninam, sometimes with vkraple-nijami a mountain pine or a juniper, often there are yellow flowers kupavy the European.
And again Weather shows Its Majesty, who in the house the owner. From party Petrosa clouds approach. Fog feelers grasp a ridge. It is necessary to refuse to visit the lake of Nesamovytoe from plans. Dviga e on a crosspiece between tops of Dantsezh and Pozhezhevsky. Further a stony track we leave to Turkul and we bypass it on the right on a southwest slope. Around the stony scatterings covered with yellow and orange lichens.
Today last high-grade day of a campaign. It is a pity … had not time to pass polo-fault of a route. It is necessary to go down - more close to a civilisation, to settlement Goverla. Very much it would be desirable to drink - water on a way does not meet. We went down any footpaths known only the Sachet: through pine krivolese, on a dense grass, through glades, porosshie an unripe bilberry …
On Tourist's Kulsky polonine there are wooden cowsheds. Here we have typed waters and have asked the girl-gutsulki: whether «it is far to settlement Goverla?» «Oh, far-far», - the answer has sounded. It "far-far" will seemed eternal. It was our last descent. 12 km of a streamer wood roads (without factor mountains ths). Roads places the impassable (pools) broken (most likely lesozagotovitelnoj technics), bumpy. petleobraznye sites we cut off some. Movement of children on a way to tsiviliza-tsii my crushed fingers and callosities braked (dry correctly footwear!). In a word, remained time to a sunset has been devoted shift of the bottom extremities. And here, we have heard long-awaited noise of the river Brebeneskul which testified that nako-nets we have gone down from a ridge.
In a place of merge of the rivers Brebeneskula and Goverly we left on more or less decent road and literally through 2 km have approached to the settlement Goverla, stretched along the small river with the same name. Tents with the permission of the forester put already in the dark, on a glade with camomiles. It was last night our adventure.
Day of the sixth: with. Goverla - Ivano-Frankovsk
In the morning we were late for the trip bus. But to us has carried - uboltali driving by local to dja-day to throw us to Rahovu. Ubaltyvanie was not gratuitous. Then the bus «Rahov - Ivano-Frankovsk». And all … Maxim and Egor have gone to Lvov, for the further acquaintance to our country. Sasha has run to prepare for a following campaign. And I had still time to wander across Ivano-Frankovsk. If to express in a word impression about a city - cosy. In it there are no bustling streets, a rhythm slow and measured, even pedestrians it seems hasten nespesha. Nice old architecture.
Again station. A train «Ivano-Frankovsk - Kiev». But, it is not believed that I leave home. I Feel ka-which braked, I understand that has left a heart part there. In Dark blue mountains. I remember V.Vysotsky: «In vanity of cities and in steams of cars we come back - simply there is no place to get to! Also we go down downwards from the subdued tops, leaving in mountains the heart.»
Casual people. A casual meeting. But, in each accident there is a law and sequence. Law has led to that four persons from different cities of a steel for short time group of adherents.
Sasha. Kharkov. Our Mountain guide. If want except physical activity from a campaign to receive and a dose of the interesting information is to it. The zoology, geography, botany become your companions on protja-zhenii all route. Love to the nature at Sashi it is not simple a material statement, but also acts. We dragged Mu-rubbish behind ourselves. Its exclamations «it is careful, underfoot a slug!» Have rescued not one... A slug. Slugs of Carpathians should be grateful to the Sachet. He noticed each small insect, a flower, a bird and generously shared the supervision with us. Reliable, strong, responsible.
Maxim and Egor. Moscow. The father and the son. Intellectuals and clear heads. Has felt pride of the country when on a back seat of the bus Max (for the first time the visited West of Ukraine) delightfully whispered: «Beauty... Super... Now that's something like it...». Reliable. Did not throw me, lagging behind. I was amazed with one of its methods of training - lifting and descent on a ladder on 18!!! The floor is more than 10 times!!! Here it is will power! An apple from an apple-tree. Egor's lambent humour forced me to laugh time and again with all the heart. The young man (13 years) has found an effective way to facilitate weight of the backpack. It is just necessary to chew the cookies entrusted it constantly. Eat more - it becomes easier a backpack.
Valentina (). Kiev. For me patience education has appeared one of the basic of lessons. The reason is simple - two days otsidki at bad weather on a crosspiece between Petrosom and Goverloj. There was a sensation of loss of precious marching time, a regret behind not passed half of route. But, there was a firm confidence later: «Life does not come to an end. I simply once again will return here». There were thoughts concerning my physical preparation. With it it was just normal (krepatura did not disturb, silenok to drag a backpack sufficed), and here endurance has pumped up. Therefore, now I am engaged in physical training of the endurance - it is necessary to be going to submit new tops.
I will not sing laudatory odes to friendship, the future joint campaigns. Parapsychologists utverzhda-jut that information energy always aspires to that radiation which is for it similar. At us and it has turned out. Our hobbies - zoology and geography, programming and computer design, philosophy of the east and facts of life were crossed. And you are not important whence - from Moscow, Kiev or Kharkov, your relation to world around, to the people who are with a number, to difficulties which have got to you is important only. And if the case turns up, I with pleasure will meet once again these children on tourist tracks...