Voronezh goes to Crimea again

My second travel to magic Crimea because of zamorochek with tickets has begun already habitually from Kursk (in fact we do not search for easy(light) ways).

After 5-hour vigil in an electric train Voronezh-Kursk, I and Marrying (the colleague and, actually, the main instigator on the next hike(trekking tour)) at last lodge in the present(true) train. Went at night and in different cars, therefore especial this crossing(moving) was not remembered by anything. Unless the conductor has at all forgotten to hand over to me a registration card(map) before crossing of border, and this superimportant piece of paper in twilight and haste on the top lateral shelf in poltretego nights under severe reprimand of the gloomy frontier guard was filled.

In the morning it was found out, that in my compartment one more traveller across Crimea, strangely enough, too from Voronezh (and the train was Moscow-ЯїјхСУ«»«Ѕэ through Kursk), unlike me, the truth, free goes. I.e. such " the tourist in one person(face) ". We have discussed advantages and lacks of hikes(trekking tours) with group and without, I at last have more close considered(examined) a card(map) of Crimea, and we have imperceptibly approached(have imperceptibly dropped in) on Simferopol.
At station.

At station at a place of gathering by time of our arrival the solid crowd of people with huge backpacks, in bright clothes (was a lot of orange) and with vigorous persons(faces) was already formed. Having flown up to children(guys), I have vigorously declared, that Voronezh has arrived, then beside the costing(standing) guy has started back from me, having murmured " I not Cyril ", and has run across on other party(side) of a circle, than very much me has made laugh.

Marrying, the tourist with whom I went in one compartment, has said goodbye to us, has handed over to me a head of garlic with a parting word " if will freeze - eat " and has gone on an own route towards to mountains of Crimea.

At us the first of the administrative board there has arrived Sorokin (than has caused an easy(a light) cheerful shock at Marry - it(she) was not in a rate who will be a conductor this time, and now it was found out, that in the fourth Crimean hike(trekking tour), as well as in previous three, it(she) will go again with Vladimir). After there was Cyril, has finally divided(undressed) us into 2 groups, has handed over products and the rented equipment, has helped(assisted) to pack all, has distributed pieces of paper with the contact information on a case of force-majeur and has sent all good luck on marshrutku up to Perevalnogo.

In our group, excepting 2 people who have not arrived without the prevention(warning) for any mysterious reasons, it has appeared 8 person, not including a conductor: we with ZHenej, children(guys) from Moscow - Light and Dima, 4 persons from Donetsk - Regina and Sergey with a daughter Katya of 11 years and their friend Ivan.
The first marching day

The first group has left from station earlier, after we have moved also. Have plunged into the bus and minutes 40 went up to a point of start. I hardly have not fallen asleep (affected nervous dialogue border), and not having realized prelestej contemplation okolosimferopolskogo spaces from a window marshrutki.

Brief instructing from Vladimir in Perevalnom - and hi, well-known Ishachja the Track. I can not tell, how many has borrowed(occupied) transition up to the first halt, - in general the concept of time of Crimea has property to change in an any direction - but a little nobody seemed. Mass changing clothes in easier(lighter) clothes and a furious attack on water stocks has begun. For the last, certainly, we were punished with a following part of rise.

The second greater(big) stop already was "lunch". Vladimir bystrenko has built tea, and we have created sandwiches. Water has been welcome to us from the nearest cleanest(purest) Source, with the refined natural taste decorated by the fallen down crimson foliage.

To Mammoth cave (bottom plateau chatyr-дага) we send(have approached;have suited) by the evening, having overcome not dull long rise, a part from which I, having seen enough of Vladimir, has passed(has taken place) barefoot. Unruly child Katerina thus ran ahead of all.

By the way, on it(this) and following ascentions owing to Ivan I have changed the opinion concerning smoking tourists therefore as donetchanin nenamnogo lagged behind the 11-years sprinter, i.e. always was above us on rise, smoking and waiting lagging behind.

Having found a hollow is deeper, we have put tents. On the logical assumption what in fact the below, the syree, Vladimir has told that " all will be good ", has sent us on caves at excursion and has advised to take small lamps since back we should come back in full darkness.

Available rather beside we have chosen that from two caves, that far away, - Marble. Not especially affable ticket collector has informed, that a fig we are not in time on a full route and has offered acquaintance only with its(his) part (something there with lakes, the name I I do not remember). At this time hardly far away behind a table tusovalas kuchka people, under our assumption - conductors, kanajushchihsja who will manage last group. To us has carried - excursion was conducted in all senses by the pleasant girl of Light, in my opinion, very competently and with humour told about sights of a local underground empire. Display of a slice of one more course in the end of a route has been promised, however demonstration was spontaneously cancelled, since because of the necessary turn muffled howls of local cave explorers reached chilling to a shower(soul), on what Light has significantly told: " Work... ")))

Back we came back in a view of almost full Moon, small lamps were necessary only at descent(release) on stones in our karmic voronku with tents. The supper was available, and on it(him) in 6 days our a little bit strange attitudes(relations) in length have begun with a various sort porridges. People obviously did not understand such way of a feed(meal), and the most part of a contained kettle traditionally went for a supper/breakfast to local wild beasts.

Behind a fire we at last have got acquainted by name, but all somehow very much ustali therefore after tea have gone on tents.
The second marching day

Despite of Vladimir's assurances, was very much syro at night. I have woken up, probably, before all (but not earlier a conductor), actually, from sensation that I lay in a damp sleeping bag. Having walked upward from ours nochevochnoj a stone hollow, from there is nothing to do(make) it was kneaded a little, has met Vladimir who already has had time to run on a far spring, to grow lazy and start to make a breakfast. Soon to a fire waking up people has started to be tightened. Donetsk approved(confirmed), that this night at them the first acquaintance to sleeping bags took place and to not tell, that it was especially pleasant. So the morning porridge was eaten under cheerful discussion of features of a tourist way of life.

After a breakfast, it is equal at 08-50 (as well as in all the next days; how it at us turned out - a riddle) we have directed to submit(conquer) the Tent-mountain, on road having turned on rodnichok behind water and morning washings. One of following halts was in Yew gorge with tiny peshcherkoj which have chosen to itself midges, smart huge stones and the tumbled down trees.

To bottom Chatyr-daga we went on edge(territory) of a plateau, observing below already seeming unreal the civilized life. And when the ascention, actually, has begun, very interesting and pleasant mode of rise has been declared(announced). Its(his) essence consist in a phrase " See in-about-about-about-it that tree?.. " To put it briefly, to us the final point of gathering has been specified and the free schedule of movement is given. We rose in a comfortable mode which basic idea in ours with ZHenej a case contained that when already I "can not" at all " there are 30 more seconds and minute rest ".

However, Vladimir has not approved our tactics, having told, that is better to go longer and longer to have a rest, than to move such jumps. Well but we have taken pleasure in rise, and this main thing. Katya and Ivan, it is necessary to notice, how all time is usual waved to us hands somewhere away from above))

Having had dinner almost at the top, we have gone further on a ridge. On road observed climbing hooks, it is not clear as hammered namertvo in a stone, an overseas kind iron designs in the extremely thrown condition and clouds born(carried) practically through us.

Have stopped at a stone embankment near to which the excellent(different) kind on Alushtu " from height of the bird's flight " and the beginning of descent(release) was found out. As it was already repeatedly mentioned in reports, descent(release) is the separate clause(article), concerning(touching) a physical condition of the important reference points of a body of the tourist - kolenej. Voronezh and Moscow have done without traumas, and here at the man's population of Donetsk have reminded of itself old damages of patellas that there is at all a joke... However children(guys) courageously continued to go, at all not demanding bandaging.

On one of halts during the Big Descent(Release) (we promptly lost all height, with such work typed(collected) for last one and a half day) I have found out on the neck of the tick. Probably, valjanie on a grass without penki at top chatyr-дага, despite of September, gift(for nothing) has not passed(has not taken place). However this day was not the most successful for an artful insect therefore as Vladimir for some seconds has deprived with its(his) both meal, and transport in the form of me.

Soon we have overcome Angarsk pass; passed a line for which Sergey has asked all will stop for very important purchase. Guess that? No, not beer and-or chocolate. It(he) has bought(purchased) an onions(a bow). A usual crude onions(bow). On a logical question " What for?! " I have seen not less surprised, than mine, eyes and not less logical brief answer " That are ". As I also suspected, the onions(bow) was a subject to the use in absolutely raw kind, that for me was a cultural shock - well I do not eat neither I, nor someone from my friends thus this vegetable.

However the shock was not only at me - Donetsk too for the first time observed the phenomenon in the form of the person who is not able to take pleasure from " vkusnejshego additions " practically to any dish. By the way, attempts to accustom me to this sacral action (eating of a crude onions(bow)) proceeded some days and success practically have not conceived - I still consider(count), that it(he) bitter and in general inedible in a natural kind)).

this day weather watched(kept up) us especially carefully, adjusting as could. I.e. as soon as we stopped to take rest for some minutes, above us arose tuchka and began significantly and with various intensity to splash with water. We, having sighed, set up backpacks on backs and moved far away from a rainy cloud grazing us.

Repeatedly in woods we met decently dressed people on walk. And if adults sderzhanno smiled and even answered greetings children had frankly fun, showing on us with fingers and doing(making) mysterious signs each other.

By the end of day we taki send(have come) on Andrjuhinu a glade (as approved(confirmed) an inscription on a boulder), have broken camp and have borrowed(occupied) in a supper. A number(line) has very opportunely appeared a spring, therefore bathings in ice water have added the program of evening.
The third marching day

This day we should see Demerdzhi and the Valley of ghosts and in this connection not sickly such rise was outlined. During it(him) with predilection Vladimir how it is necessary to breathe correctly has been interrogated. After long tortures it(he) soznalsja, that actually it is necessary to breathe only through a nose. Well or even to inhale through a nose. We have immediately started practice. Really, to rise it became easier. If still it was possible to be kept from a drink vodichki on halts - it would be absolutely remarkable.



While we rose on a saddle between Northern and Southern Demerdzhi, various ways of conquest of tops had time to observe. The most popular have appeared jeeps and horses. Lifting clouds of a dust, they it is proud were carried by past, looking on us from top to down, not suspecting, that it we look at them with a smile)

Having reached up to confidential poljanki where we have hidden backpacks, have gone on legendary top. Having shown us the Valley of ghosts from above, Vladimir has gone to make a dinner, we have dispersed on local sights. In some distance, teasing the is unapproachable-metal kind and fantastic forms of stones around, there was a tower marking(celebrating) height.



Certainly, we with ZHenej have directed there, the blessing have got in "window" between attacks of tourists and much nalazilis and have rolled about on rocks. We even have received honour to observe how the small flight from 5 ravens has executed solemn Dance of the Wind directly near to us. Other children(guys) used this time more productively - they have gone down to a lunch glade. However, is fast we to them have joined.



Having had a bite sandwiches, have again started to go down and by the evening have reached the big glade at a mountain stream in which, certainly, not pereminuli to be expiated. Hardly further a glade there were marvellous viewing platforms from which the tremendous kind on autumn mountains opened... It was wonderful.
The fourth marching day. It has appeared for me the most difficult.

If we thought, that yesterday went down much, in vain. This time all was much more serious, and children(guys) to persuade began to replace really Vladimir descents(releases) by rises. " You still have knees? Then we go to you " is there was a slogan of day in execution(performance) Vani.

And the purpose of this(thus) ekzekutsii, in common people named by descent(release), falls Dzhur-Джур was long. Again a meeting with a civilization, and here Ivan, having embodied general expectations about normal meal, has made a heroic sortie in the nearest to a falls (in 2 km) settlement for яюьшфюЁрьш-ёырфъшьш-яхЁчрьш-ьхфюь-ьюыюъюь-ё№Ёюь and still various vkusnostjami.

Waiting for it(him), we have walked by the equipped part " zapovednoj zones ".

Falling falls from above to photograph it has not turned out - process has been interrupted by cries in a megaphone of the uncle-security guard, in various variations, but always in an imperative mood using a verb "to depart".

The quantity(amount) to people, bathing everywhere above on current, stunned(amazed). It was mass water-insanity in which we too wished to take part(participate), but here somehow without noisy crowd. And Vladimir in the meantime confidently conducted us to a treasured rock, perelezt through which, however, there was a desire only at Dimy and Svety and me. In the award we have received in unlimited using a little bit absolutely free kupelek with освежающе-ice water.

nakupavshis and having met Ivan with tasty purchases, we have settled down on a glade near to a check point, had a bite, and then have moved further. Our evening purpose was parking Ah-бЅС¬Яї®.

On road we have met yet one independently moving group and have distributed to them the entrance tickets on vodopadnuju a zone. In the same place to us the friend on a train - Marrying, vigorously running " aki an elk " (Vladimir's expression) aside chatyr-дага has met. On one of steep slopes we saw in bushes not clearly as come here and having a rest bychka. Having estimated its(his) weight, have solved what inform up to parking cannot, and have let alone.

Having received the classified information from the met tourists that on Ah-бЅС¬Яї® the forester collecting a bribe for tents-waters-fires periodically goes, Vladimir has changed our purpose for parking su-бФ that settled down on 1,5 km further upwards. Here this rise was really complex(difficult) to me personally, and for not clear reasons.

However our efforts were voznagrazhdeny a fine glade, a spring from flanks and a magnificent prelude by a supper in the form of salad from tomatoes, pepper, garlic (a gift from " the tourist in one person(face) "), soya sauce, mayonnaise, a crude onions(bow) (where without it(him)!) and a smoked cheese. And shamanil above product of culinary art with own hand Ivan, having driven away all female collective from kitchen hemp (" will spoil in fact... ")
The fifth marching day

end of a hike(trekking tour) Came nearer, and all became on the sly sad. Already and the erased legs(foots) ceased to seem a problem, and to go it was somehow much easier... But also jokes on a theme of a strike on the nearest cheburechnuju too did not lose a urgency)

Has imperceptibly passed(Has imperceptibly taken place) doobedennyj transition, and at last the special surprise - one more global descent(release) has been prepared to us. We send(have left) to two lakes - Big and Small, have stopped at the last therefore as podpityvalos it the cleanest(purest) spring, and have rushed to bathe.

During all hike(trekking tour) weather stood marvellously pleasant - was warm, but without intolerable heat; us covered from the sun oblachka, to dry after rises the easy(light) breeze helped(assisted), and the rain appeared only in the form of the adjusting factor and no more, than on pair minutes. Probably, it was indemnification for ours with ZHenej the hike(trekking tour) across Crimea in May)) And lost there vargan has been obviously favourably accepted as podnoshenija to gods of Mountains.

On Small lake were found out local having a rest, exchanging words on Ukrainian language bewitching hearing and whiled away time behind fishing and cancers. iskupavshis, all have amicably gone behind desired grapes, in fact in 200 meters from parking multikilometer vineyards began.

obevshis very juicy berries, potopali on parking, on road having seduced with several remarkable fresh pallets as fire wood on a fire. Already sitting at supper we have recollected, that generally beside the curtailed(turned) blanket and matches laid, i.e. most likely we have plundered a rookery of the local security guard)

Up to darkness we with ZHenej still had time to run to admire the next Big lake with also cleanest(purest) water.

Final evening has passed(has taken place) behind slow conversations about the last hike(trekking tour); then people has smoothly spread on tents. And Ivan was occurred with remarkable idea to have a sleep open-air, that it(he) with success and has done.
The sixth marching day

in the Morning we gathered slowly and photographed, Sergey joked of the got analogue kessonnoj illnesses - now it is necessary to buy specially a backpack, to load it(him) and to run on seacoast and around of the house in Donetsk, to come in become habitual a condition of the vigorous tourist.

This morning we have persuaded Vladimir to not cook a porridge, having faceted by tea with the rests of dry rations.

And exactly at 8-50 were put forward aside Fishing, a final point of our route. Vladimir has warned what to go it will be necessary kilometers 8 on very dusty road, and we morally prepared for it(this). However our mystical punctuality "has shot" in the most unexpected image. Last seconds departure the small truck brought workers on vintage has been caught. And we, shouting "hurrah", druzhnenko have jumped in its(his) body. There too it was dusty - but only 20 minutes. Us have delivered directly to an input(entrance) to a beach where we solemnly and were unloaded.

Having released(Having let off) our "taxi", have gone(send) to entertain the kind of peacefully having a rest citizens, in a plenty reclining on priberezhnoj to a pebble. There was an easy(a light) storm, the sea diligently did not let wishing to plunge into the possession, and those who has reached an opportunity to drive on waves, let out(released) with the big reluctance.

Having freshened, we have shifted things so that to release(exempt) rented by children(guys) from Donetsk backpacks, have said goodbye to Vladimir and have planted(put) it(him) on the bus up to Simferopol. Further there was a celebratory banquet and eating of various compound food in solemn conditions in one of priberezhnyh cafe then, having said goodbye, poobnimavshis and having exchanged addresses, we dispatch(deliver;have missed) on three parties(sides) according to plans for the further rest.
I finish

I Finish, and very much I would like to thank satellites on improbably pleasant and it is unequivocal to more comfortable on weather (rather than the previous May hike(trekking tour) - Romantik Kollekshn) to a route. It has much been surprised by that to Donetsk as it was found out from the subsequent correspondence, in some moments was really heavy, hurted(were ill;were sick) both the erased legs(foots), and injured kolenki, the general(common) weariness, but children(guys), to their honour affected, have descended(gone) from a route and moreover - tried to not show in any way any discomfort, transforming all for fun.

Dima and Light too very much stojko experienced all steep slopes and not less abrupt descents(releases), measuredly them overcoming and pleasing with the optimism.

Traditional " domo arigato " to Vladimir as to the author of tremendous grassy teas, the expert on set of secret tracks, poljanok and the springs, generously shared us the knowledge.

Cyril and Light, organizers, - certainly, thanks and to you. Well, it is clear for what)

p.s. By the way, poissledovala the sites offering(suggesting) similar services on the organization of various hikes(trekking tours) - with pleasure I mark(celebrate), that on druzheljubnosti, to the form of granting of the information and a general impression outdoorukraine.com out of competition)) Continue in the same spirit)

p.p.s. One more surprising fact for me, only, however, confirming incrutability of the Crimean mountain roads, - we so anywhere never also were not crossed with the first group though key points which are noted both on ours, and in their photos, there were as a whole the same))

Arsenteva Anna, Voronezh 2009.