Crimean mountains

Trekking tour across Southeast Crimea 19.07.09-24.07.09 (a route Water and Stones).
We have gone(send), everyone as can. For me it was complex(difficult). But I have understood, that I shall make it, and that with each step I feel all more strongly, the confidence filled me. With numerous short passes (30-50 seconds) I have got. Vetrishche - ears hurt. Such freedom - such huge world - so is fine a life - here these ideas at once have visited(attended) all. With Vanej have set up my wet vest on any shest in the top - symbolically in fact.
This height (somewhere 1457 meters) has very much admired me - and has ceased I it(her) so to be afraid. And joyful it was such, inside, naruzhi for some reason, probably, it was poorly appreciable, but inside - a song. Has come time and me to try to write. It is a little joyfully even I feel myself from the first experience. In general, Crimea, to be exact Crimean mountains.

I shall pass(miss) history as I reached from Minsk Simferopol though and in road there were some new and curious events.
On July, 19th, 2009 - Birthday.

5 o'clock in the morning. So early on the birthday I did not wake up never. I go in a train, in a window already Crimea. Not too picturesquely: industrial targets, small houses, usual woods and fields. Looking in a window, it is lazy I drink tea, the heat is a little already podnadoela, as well as a conservative kind family with two children, politely trying to bring up what. Employees of customs (as I have understood on entrance to Crimea the service) with a smile and vigorously search my densely packed backpack. When find fine salt - together we laugh.

I leave, I hasten(hurry) and quickly I find the necessary company of people at the Simferopol station. Also operatively to me find a backpack and that in it(him) to pack (kovrik, a part of tent, groats, canned food and my things). On ignorance I pack it(him) badly, pereupakovyvaju. Everything, Andrey is ready, the backpack on shoulders - is time to submit(conquer), at last, these mountains.

Through 100 meters up to a tram has understood that, something is not ready, not that, a neck pulls downwards, it(she) hurts - has a little begun to panic, that and will be diskomfortno. The darling babulja is pinned above us, that supposedly if there is no driver it(she) will lead a tram. We go. Already more interestingly - I sit on a backpack, on a floor near to a muzzle psa any (not our) girl and our instructor, Andrey Gipichem.

The first impression about it(him) the best, than on a photo. However stereotype already generated about it(him) is imposed nobody "Old salt" more truly "Mountain" - well and accordingly, respect there and easy(light) irony in occasion of its(his) "detachment".

On Perevalnom (I do not know even this name of item(point) or it is simple so a place where the pass is made) we leave, again pereupakovyvajus (it is rather important), has tightened(delayed) all - like became easier than a strap, confidence has increased.

We rise on a wood, on ishachej to a track. Through 300 meters the confidence again began to recede. ZHarko, diskomfortno tjazhelit also pulls back backpack. But everyone go - yes simply before itself it is a shame to recede. With five-six rather inconvenient, but all the same very pleasant passes it is risen on bottom plateau CHetyrdaga, is more true on the bottom part of the bottom plateau.

Already the first kind therefrom inspires and gives forces. We are removed, we breathe, someone lays, someone runs, is photographed. I - sit, I look at lake in the distance, on mountains below, on members of our expedition(dispatch), I listen and I inhale pure(clean) air.

After pass again an ascention on bottom plateau CHetyrdaga. Short, but abrupt enough. Being pleased with the second breath, with some effort I rise upward. We expect the others, sitting on backpacks, and here it(he) the first dinner. Having looked a notebook, and scratching a nape, enough fast speech our instructor throws « So paste such and such, cheese at whom hlebtsy, candied fruits », - as the most valuable gets sausage at itself.

The first dinner has seemed to me boring, people apathetically pecked food, it is more enjoying simply sitting and contemplation of new kinds. Attempted, have washed down with for the future typed(collected) water and have again gone(send again). Tracks, roads of a plateau it is much easier, than uphill. The halt on road, was thrown off with backpacks, behind water on the nearest spring, there have got drunk(saw) and not tired completely not have returned to backpacks. On meadow and wood tropkam send(have come) to the first place of spending the night. Cave suuk-¬«нб - polupeshchera, the deepening in a rock big on which walls have left marks other tourists and poluturisty is simple.

We break camp, I am defined(determined), that to me will sleep more comfortably in tent with one person, let it even will be Vanja, rather than the fourth in tent with our guide and two girls (Lena and Oksana). We go, we look round - rather unusual to me the nature - I vnjuhivajus literally as a dog in everything, interestingly. We collect fire wood and we cook I food, macaroni with tushenkoj. After the first supper it became clear, that tushenka it simply idea or imagination on it(her). 2 banks tushenki on a kettle of macaroni on 15 person even not strongly irritate njuhatelnye receptors, there is nothing to speak about flavouring. But this fact, plus the termination(ending) of the first day has for some reason caused such ejforicheskuju a wave of the raised(excited) pleasure. At that not only at me.

We with Vanej chewed macaroni and neighed, as though macaroni have been welded(cooked) together by a hemp. Uh, what delicacy! It is a pity, that it cannot last eternally! « Macaroni with macaroni »! Look here at this picture from magazine about food - and now close eyes and chew macaroni.

Being dared(Laughing) and throwing up fire wood in a fire under a kettle with tea, have started to tell about itself. At everyone the history, the experience. Personally to me was this part of evening is rather interesting. People come from Germany, Czechia, from Moscow - here it is interesting.

Have casually congratulated me happy birthday. Have gone(send) to sleep. I - could not fall asleep, laid in poludreme and thought. What I do not remember - I at times like to think, when a sleeplessness.
7/20/2009 - the Song inside.

Morning, is fresh and is very clear. We go to a near cave behind water. In a cave has not regretted, that has replaced sports barefoot persons carried by yesterday all the day on krossovki, but has regretted, that has not taken nalobnyj a small lamp. In full darkness on slippery stones we have gone down up to a place where there was a water, a pool of water. Scooping a mug water, its(her) bottles have filled. I shall tell fairly, not all contents of bottles did not cause suspicions, in the some people in me it(she) were a little muddy.

Breakfast, washing of utensils, gathering. We walk legonko. We leave Lena with backpacks. We go to cave emine-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ. Cost - 50 griven.

In such huge cave I in second time. All very curiously also you think of an antiquity of our planet and fancifulness of the nature. I try to breathe actively its(her) air. Have told, that it(he) very pure(clean), it is good - I behind health have arrived to these mountains. From different directions freakish patterns and sculptures from stalagmites, stalagnatov, geliktitov and korallitov, the karstic freakish reliefs generated for millions of years of interaction of water with kaltsievymi by connections, well and still another minerals. Numerous halls admire with that, on what the nature is capable.

Have returned. Already more active dinner has turned out. Under a rain in yew gorge. Has very much impressed, it would be desirable to throw off all and as the child to climb, investigate(research) all these roughnesses and to a floor-cave, courses, trees.

But people is tired. The dilemma to rise upwards or to go down downwards? Here all a floor of kilometer - is thrown by our Leader. We solve upwards. It is rather quickly reached a viewing platform. Cheers, that this everything, yes anything complex(difficult)! The height really huge, a top of trees is more than kilometer below. We Are above a precipice. From height, is more true than fear before it(her) and that someone can be broken - a little diskomfortno. In the distance mountain the Hangar-breaker, beautiful mountain, majestic, we photograph. But in any way I did not think, that we shall go on a ridge on this mountain.

We have gone(send), everyone as can. For me it was complex(difficult). But I have understood, that I shall make it, and that each time I feel all more strongly, the confidence filled me. With numerous short passes (30-50 seconds) I have got. Vetrishche - ears hurt. Such freedom - such huge world - so is fine a life - here these ideas at once have visited(attended) all. With Vanej have set up my wet vest on any shest in the top - symbolically in fact.

This height (somewhere 1457 meters) has very much admired me - and has ceased I it(her) so to be afraid. And joyful it was such, inside, naruzhi for some reason, probably, it was poorly appreciable, but inside - a song.

On a plateau we go up to Pepelatsa (film "Kin-дза-дза" if remember) - rather strange thing at such height, is really similar on Pepelats. We go down. To go down more difficultly, than to rise, much more difficultly. Hard, not involved muscles are strained earlier. Natasha has dislocated an anklebone. Volodja lowers it(her) on the back, we with Vanej pick up 2 more backpacks - and it becomes for some reason easier. Type of difficulty have provoked development(manufacture) of any stimulating hormones.

On a beechen wood, too as in a fairy tale we go up to a beechen glade. There camp. I try and at me, it turns out to take a shower, having used thus hardly more than 2 litres of water, I understand European ekonomnost.

After meal at a fire conversations on the Universe (my favourite questions on infinity of the Universe), about religion, principles, wedding, family, education of children, divorces, love, food, women and men, stars and books. Then in tent long about dreams and slavic culture. At night it is raining.
7/21/2009 - Travers Northern Demerdzhi.

Languidly general cooking of a breakfast begins. Drowsily wipe eyes again waking up. More quickly, than it is usually collected and we stamp backpacks. Wash me noticeably pleases - for 2 last days I have managed to reduce available stocks of groats in it(him).

On a fantastic скалисто-earthen beechen wood, we last through shop for morozhennym, Angarsk pass - and again uphill. The feeling of force is filled with legs(foots). Monotonously, but abruptly enough we go upwards. Through a wood already decent height and the far irregular, caesious sea (it is often possible to confuse it(him) with the sky) is visible. We pass(we take place) a tree reminding any wood octopus. The stop on a viewing platform, whence is visible Alushta (it(she) almost at all our heights was visible - we as though bypassed its(her) circle).

Ridge the Ale-¬бn. Downwards to look each time all it is easier. Thrickets and trees on the parties(sides) of a ridge in general soften feeling of height.

Peak Curly Marja from which I photograph Vanju on a background of peak Bald Ivan. We go down - we rise - we go down - we rise - easily enough it turns out. On a glade absolutely cheerful and unusual dinner. Who chews more quickly, or at whom more quickly and more longly - that will eat easier hands more. The energy which has been saved up(which has been saved) from dopohodnoj of meal has left(abandoned) our tempered bodies and now we live on porridges and hlebtsah with a piece of sausage during the lunchtime.

Against a wind it is moved further by Bald Ivan. Soon - a halt. The part of group decides to climb up Ivan. Without ammunition - same so it is easy(light). I climb without a vest, from a wind it becomes cold, and, the main thing, is no place to disappear from it(him). It adjusts. Has climbed up a pique there is a cross, under it(him) small vpadinka - lay down in vpadinku that the wind did not blow. Strange sensations to be on peak(pique) of mountain under a cross - I am pacified, and any awe finds, calms.

After descent(release) we meet uncle Lenja (the grandfather I would tell) who, having broken into mountain tent, expects the friend. Still that artful volchara once was, I have thought. Its(his) histories and jokes are filled by inexhaustible optimism and melancholy by a youth simultaneously. Quickly we retire, except for Elena well it is necessary for them to invite in a friendly way uncle Lenju to us camp, up to which it(she) does not represent distance.

Travers on Northern Demerdzhi - in as. And has written down in the notebook - as the instructor has told - like so authoritatively sounds.

We go on edge(territory) of a precipice. The right leg(foot) - and uffffffffffffff will slide off. It is a little already even raises(excites). Really I feel, how, being splashed out, in area of a solar plexus adrenaline sharply spreads. Through a wood we reach the next survey glade - one of the most beautiful as it seemed to me. The sea is visible already more distinctly(clearly). Alushta - I there was never, therefore it(she) for me as derevenka is looked. A little more and parking Dzhurla. On lake for the first time for this time we bathe - very pleasantly. Very pleasant also there is a supper. Madly tasty and up to laughter inserting there is a grassy tea (thanks Elena - well that which with uncle Lenej gossiped). Conversations about stars. Through the transparent sky - a meteoric shower.
7/22/2009 - On a helicopter track.

Morning. Who has wanted, were expiated (will be yet fast again such opportunity). After gathering rise uphill. On road Vanja actively collects mushrooms masljata. The person eats them even crude, transforming in the energy necessary for ability to live in mountains. We reach up to Southern Demerdzhi - Alushta somewhere away below.

We begin descent(release). On the right freakish rocks create strange sculptures: a head of a bogatyr, Ekaterina's head, the singing nymphs, crying the women, one of bodies of a body of Potyomkin. The small pass for a dinner also begins … … … …

Descent(Release) on a helicopter track. The name of a track quite corresponds(meets) to the validity. Present a path going downwards through impressive trees, their roots, the various form and the size stones on a spiral trajectory. Sometimes it is necessary will stop, and to think over in advance, where to go, to be kept on legs(foots). Going down on a track, I have felt for a long time the pleasures left in the childhood from conquest such new and complex(difficult) for lazanija objects. Recollect the feeling when you get for the first time on a branchy oak or other tree. And so. Sensations from the Helicopter track are the those children's sensations multiplied in 10 times. Despite of difficulties, was very fascinatingly and curiously. Later on a track it was necessary to pay for pass. Any businessman has leased at local lesgorhoza these grounds (quite possibly, that gratuitous rent) and now for the right of pass on them - raises a payment.

Have gone down. In a place where oak Nikulina grows, we make small purchases. On the cow track, through a wood again podymaemsja uphill. Something about the captain who proceeded all the seas, legonko I sing. Operatively enough we reach a new halt (the most beautiful in my opinion).

Falls Dzhurla, flat rocks, small house of the shepherd, it is deep in gorge - a spring, moreover with Vanej have bought(purchased) to itself of beer. Have welded(cooked) mushrooms. Were washed in a rivulet. In general, evening has appeared excellent. Spoke about music, technics(technical equipment), sympathies, women, romanticism, laughed and joked. I slept at this night wonderfully.
7/23/2009 - the Person is born to rise.

It is a pity - but it is necessary to leave(abandon) falls Dzhurlu. Collectively we solve, that on tracks of a youth of our instructor Andrey we shall not go. Have thought up the name to a new track. A track Bottom Shady. Not so boring track, but we go almost silently. We go in a direction of falls Dzhur-Джур. To go down to it(him;them) very much bothers. All the same the person is arranged by the nature so that podymatsja (and in direct and figurative sense), because to go down somehow nekomfortno for legs(foots).

Here it(he) this Dzhur-Джур. Again we pay for an input(entrance) in the place rented by someone with a falls. After installation of camp by small group of daredevils (us three) it decided to find that place about which uncle Lenja - there where the height of a falls reaches(achieves) 38 meters spoke us. For this purpose having passed(having taken place) it is a little along a channel of the river on gorge, it is climbed highly up mountain to round being on our way on gorge a rock. We bend around it(her). With greater(big) work it is gone down again to the river (it has borrowed(occupied) considerably time). We go forward along a channel again, but, despite lacking backpacks, we decide to come back. We come over to other party(side) of small river, we overcome an obstacle in the form of complex(difficult) architecture of a rock and we find out people who freely go on other coast there-here, not making any complex(difficult) acrobatic and labour-consuming ascentions and descents(releases).

It appears, going along a channel of the river, we could come freely here, and thus with us would remain still adjust(set up) to go much further, to find this high falls. That. We shall make it following time. And now we take the advertised baths of a youth and we are photographed on 7 meter falls. I mark(celebrate) to organizers, that if the part of a hike(trekking tour) would pass(take place) on this gorge along a channel of the river it(he) would accept the name « Water and stones » more.

With Vanej have bought(purchased) casting wine from local merchants and have wonderfully spent time, sitting to a shop, observing of people and sincerely talking. Have returned to camp. As for a long time it was not very nourishing have gorged on. To sleep.
24.07.09 - the Sea after mountains.

In the morning have gone down to General, have eaten bought(purchased) at babuli fresh pies, to a taxi were delivered in Solnechnogorsk, to the sea, people, a heat and noise. After several bathings - the sea has bothered, more truly mountains have left about themselves such memoirs, that the sea already was not interesting. Had a bite with Vanej and have gone on marshrutke to Simferopol. Past passed Alushtu. With a smile has recollected, how the city looked(appeared) from mountains and what small seem.

Having said goodbye with Vanej, villages in a train to Kiev also has left to new adventures about which I shall write another time.

Andrey Zubkevich, Minsk 2009.