Rock climbing

The rocky technics(technical equipment) is extremely various. To seize(take possession) her(it), it is necessary to train longly and persistently. From first days it is necessary to understand and acquire the basic receptions of rock-climbing. These receptions are developed(produced) on the basis of as physical data-dexterities, accuracy of movements and force, and moral qualities - boldness, speed of orientation, resoluteness and care (feeling of a measure).       Studying ways of movement on grassy slopes, taluses and moraines should precede studying of rock-climbing; at work on these rises the necessary qualities for rock-climbing are developed(produced): economy of forces at movement, greater(big) fastness, dexterity, correct statement of legs(foots).

All rocks share on lungs, average and difficult. The rocks having a small bias and enough of emphasises and grabs are called as lungs. On light(mild) rocks the person still goes, only slightly adhering to arms(hand) for conservation of equilibrium. It is transient type between walking (with application of one legs(foots)) and lazaniem (with application of legs(foots) and arms(hand)). Breed of light(mild) rocks young, not subject to destruction: a granite, dolomite, etc.

Average rocks have greater(big) toughness, up to steep inclusive, but have still enough of greater(big) emphasises and grabs, meet both light(mild) fireplaces and plates. For ohranenija can be applied krjuchja. Breed of these rocks various, but poorly blasted.

Difficult rocks in strong breed are walls of various toughness, down to hanging in the form of eaves. These rocks include all features of a rocky land forms: fireplaces, hiatuses, plates. The number of grabs and emphasises very slightly, and they are insignificant in the sizes. Here are already widely applied krjuchja both for ohranenija, and for lazanija.

Rocks can be strongly blasted, consisting of fragile breed and by virtue of it(this) rather hazardous and difficult for rise even at their technical simplicity.

Difficulty of rocks is defined(determined), thus, by their toughness, a land forms (izrezannost and grain) and durability of breed.

Before the beginning lazanija it is necessary to examine from a convenient outlook all prospective way on rocks and to plan a way of movement on a paper in the form of kroki. On this kroke sites on which it is possible to meet those or other difficulties that at lazany to concern to them especially carefully are marked(celebrated). On kroke it is necessary to note also places which did not manage to be surveyed.

Having planned the general(common) way, it is necessary to break it(him) into sites lazanija, to define(determine) places of stoppings for rest(tour) and ohranenija, to break all way into sites unceasing lazanija. The length of each site depends on its(his) difficulty, a stock of forces and technical skills of the rock-climber. Such plan of rise defines(determines) delivery of a cord climbing from last item(point) of its(her) fastening.

At delivery of a cord it is necessary to start with toughness of a slope and its(his) technical difficulty, and also from character of the rocks having various koefitsient abrasions. Delivery of a cord depends on an angle to horizon under which the climber rises.

All told concerns to enough strong cord having 700-900 kg on break (static). Delivery of a cord therefore kolebletsja from 1 up to 12 m on average and difficult rocks.

On abrupt, steep rocks the climber is threatened with free fall. Force of jerk is enlarged then with depth of fall under the law of alive forces and consequently there is a risk of failure safeguarding or break of a cord if safeguarding will too strongly fix it(her). Seven meters of free fall are not maintained with any climbing cord.

At lazany with krjuchjami the distance between the driven in hooks for ohranenija also is admissible delivery of a cord on the given slope. Thus at lazany with krjuchjami the general(common) distance between safeguarded and safeguarding can reach(achieve) 25-30 m.

The first site it is necessary to examine, plan closely(attentively) a direction, grabs and emphasises. It is necessary to consider, with what leg(foot) to begin lazanie.

Correctly chosen way spares forces. Vacation spots should be planned rather obdumanno: the inconvenient place does not give rest(tour) and only will strengthen utomlgnie. Preliminary survey of a way often solves success of all business(affairs) as when the climber climbs on rocks, already late to choose a way.

At the compelled(forced) stopping on small emphasises of a leg(foot) quickly get tired, start to shiver, that threatens with failure. Thus it is necessary to notice what to stand leaning(basing) a toe on a small ledge more tiresomely, than leaning(basing) a welt. If the climber from the very beginning has incorrectly planned a way or not sorazmeril the forces with difficulty of a site, and was convinced of it(this) only having begun(started) lazanie, - he should be drained off immediately.

Lazanie it is the most safe when climbing saves three points of a leg: for two arms(hand) and a leg(foot) or both legs(foots) and an arm(a hand). In case of loss of one of points of a leg the climber can then to save equilibrium: quickly having changed position of a body and having found other grab to restore three points of a leg. At lazany with two points of a leg in case of loss of one of them it is almost impossible to save equilibrium.

Before to undertake an arm(a hand) for zatsepku or to come(step) a leg(foot), it is necessary to examine it(her), to clear of fine stones and land, whether to test-is reliable? Certainly, it is not necessary to do(make) approbation with all force, check is made by the light(mild) movements defining(determining) durability zatsepki. At too strong impact or rocking the prominence(mamelon) can come off and bring down the bottom comrades or the most climbing.
Direction of pressure upon grabs
Fig. 20. A direction of pressure upon grabs.

The direction of pressure upon grabs can be the diversified and depends on character of grab and a way lazanija. Nevertheless it is possible to specify, that on grabs it is necessary to press to perpendicularly basis of a rock (fig. 20, 21, 22), and on emphasises-approximately(-about) under an angle 25-30 (fig. 23). The was more acutely this angle between a rock and a direction of pressure upon an emphasis, the costs(stands) a leg(foot) less strongly. From here a rule: "not stick" to a rock, and it is a little to reject a body back then it is possible to use even negligible prominences(mamelon). On the tested grab or an emphasis it is impossible to transfer(carry) weight of a body sharp jerk. Movements should be soft, smooth. The load is carried only with that arm(hand) or a leg(foot) on which gravity of a body is transferred(carried). Muscles of transferable(tolerable) extremities are relaxed.

Let's assume, that the rock-climber costs(stands) on two emphasises and keeps for both of grab, has four points of a leg is a starting position. Then he tears off one leg(foot) from an emphasis and transfers(carries) it(her) on the emphasis prepared above, during all way by air from an emphasis against the stop muscles of a transferable(tolerable) leg(foot) are relaxed, have a rest. The secret of economy of forces consists in such alternating work and rest(tour). When you look, how the good rock-climber see as though climbs is lazy the floating person, in regular intervals and slowly, almost mechanically moving arms(hand) and legs(foots). Actually he makes very much a tough job, but all movements of the good rock-climber are perfectly fulfilled and thought over.
Direction of pressure upon grabs
Fig. 21, 22. A direction of pressure upon grabs.

Legs(Foots) at the person are much stronger than arms(hand). At lazany they perform the main work. Arms(hand) serve mainly for conservation of equilibrium of a body and keep it(him) from fall. Rise of a body and vyzhimy are carried out by legs(foots). Grabs often should be stretched or squeezed(dragged out or squeezed). At lazany it is not necessary to be extended, trying to reach as it is possible above before grab, arms(hand) quickly get tired of it(this) and become numb. As it is not necessary to be bent in the sides, searching for grabs, easily to lose thus equilibrium. The way on rocks normally goes ' directly upwards, all movements in the sides are carried out by rules traversa.

The best way lazanija on rocks - lazanie and raspor. Thus legs(foots) place a little bit more widely brachiums, developing knees outside. Legs(foots) press on emphasises, being wrung out from them and framing these(it;this) the lever lifting the rock-climber. The body of the person forms some kind of a fork. It is necessary to climb, not being tightened on prominences(mamelon), and being wrung out from them. Such lazanie it is not given at once, it is comprehended slowly, gradually and almost imperceptibly.
Direction of pressure upon emphasises
Fig. 23. A direction of pressure upon emphasises.

Draining off on rocks quite often happens more dangerously rise. It speaks that the way downwards is badly visible. It is impossible to plan in advance sites lazanija as it was at rise.

Therefore on rather sloping, light(mild) slopes it is more convenient to be drained off in raspor, the face from a rock.

On difficult slopes is better to be drained off by free draining off on a cord.

During lazanija the rock-climber should be absolutely quiet, he should distract and not be afraid of nothing of height. The rock-climber should be always self-assured. Such confidence gives reliable, well organized ohranenie and knowledge of technics(technical equipment).

Plates meet in granitah more often. Promotion on them is strongly complicated because of absence of clearly expressed grabs and emphasises. On rather sloping rough sites move ahead, keeping planes of extremities (a palm, a foot) or using negligible bulges and excavations on a plate for grabs and emphasises. In the fettered boots it is possible to resist on a plate not more abruptly 30, in special footwear (rocky boots, rubber slippers)-up to 45. Therefore abrupt plates can appear an absolute obstacle for promotion forward and demand high technics(technical equipment) lazanija. If are available treshchinki here apply krjuchja, but it is possible seldom.

In fireplaces lazajut exclusively in raspor (fig. 24). In a narrow fireplace rest arms(hand) against one side, and legs(foots) in another. For rise of a body rest arms(hand) behind a back and, being wrung out, lift the case. For relief of work of arms(hand) it is possible to use one leg(foot).

In averages on width fireplaces lazajut, resting against one wall the left leg(foot) and the left arm(hand), and in another - the right arm(hand) and the right leg(foot) and, being wrung out, rearrange alternately legs(foots) and arms(hand). Movement in a fireplace demands the big force and hardiness. These movements are unusual to a beginner and consequently are tiresome, but for the skilled(experienced) rock-climber lazanie on fireplaces more quickly and lighter, than lazanie on a wall.
lazanie in a fireplace
Fig. 24. Lazanie in a fireplace.

Draining off in fireplaces passes(takes place) the same as also rise, sometimes it is possible to use and free draining off. Ohranenie going by the first it is made sideways through a hook hammered probably above, and krjuchja for ohranenija should not be hammered on a vertical, one under another. At rest(tour) in a fireplace, it is necessary samoohranjatsja through krjuchja.

In crude weather to get fireplaces dangerously as it is easily possible to slip. Especial hazard in fireplaces is represented with rockfalls, to be covered from which very difficultly. It is necessary to choose fireplaces very cautiously.

Lazanie in hiatuses it is even more difficult, than in fireplaces. They demand, except for force, still high technics(technical equipment) lazanija in raspor at utilization of negligible prominences(mamelon) and excavations. To give here the prescription lazanija it is impossible. In each separate event apply the most various receptions. In a wide hiatus where the body enters but to be incurvated it is impossible, lazajut as though getting jammed a body and coiling. Legs(foots) rest kolenjami against one side, and ступнями-in another, arms(hand)-elbows and palms also in the different sides. Use grabs and outside of a hiatus.

The body enters into a hiatus of average width only half, therefore one arm(hand) and a leg(foot) use external grabs and emphasises, and other arm(hand) and a leg(foot) - inner. Especially use abrasion of a body about a surface of a rock, trying to creep on her.

In narrow hiatuses where the part of an arm(a hand) and a part of a leg(foot) enter only to speak about lazanii it is not necessary. The basic receptions are raspor and abrasion. vsunutaja the palm of an arm(a hand) compressed in a fist inside of a hiatus, or a foot entered by side in a hiatus and turned by a sole from top to bottom sometimes helps(assists). It is very important to define(determine) from below, on what side of a hiatus it is necessary to get out, in accordance with it(this) it is necessary to begin lazanie, having turned in the necessary side.

Lobby normally serve as ways for rockfalls and avalanches. To pass(take place) a lobby it is necessary during frosty, cold time of day: early in the morning, in clear and dry weather. A lobby pass(take place) one of the described ways.

Even more dangerously for passage zholoby. Often zholob passes(takes place) on wide kuluaru, and in a bottleneck zholob and kuluar coincide. ZHoloby or a narrow lobby can be passed(taken place) lazaniem (ordinary or in raspor), but is better to avoid in general these places, passing(taking place) on them only in events of emergency and only early in the morning.

Any movement along a slope across or under a small angle is called traversom a slope. (movement on a crest or through top also is called in technics(technical equipment) of mountaneering traversom a ridge or top.) for traversa normally use wide and narrow terraces, horizontal hiatuses and cracks. On wide terraces it is possible to go, on narrow terraces and hiatuses it is necessary lazat, and sometimes and to creep.

At lazany on rocky traverse the climber saves vertical position of a body. The leg(foot) or an arm(a hand) are put to each other. It is impossible to cross legs(foots) or arms(hand): thus easily to break(disturb) equilibrium and to fall. At lazany use not only the upper grabs, but also bottom, for example, treshchinkami, pressing on grabs from below upwards. At such way of movement it is the most convenient to safeguard through a hook. The more close to rising the hook ohranenija is driven in, the there will be a scope pendular kachanija and less jerk in case of fall less.

On crests there can be the various obstacles demanding knowledge of all technics(technical equipment) lazanija. At ohranenii on a narrow crest falling and safeguarding should appear on the different sides of a crest. On a wide crest often go on one side and safeguard the same as and on rocks. On a crest, naturally, is not present either rockfalls, or avalanches, and in this respect he is more safe than other way. But on a crest the flown storm can dump(reset) the climber. Nevertheless on a crest it is possible to prefer a way to other way to top.

Lazanie on rocks it is the most convenient to make ligaments(cords) on two persons. While one climber climbs, another closely(attentively) safeguards it(him), having concentrated entirely on ohranenii. At Movement of ligament(cord;sheaf) it is necessary to avoid such positions when safeguarded is immediately above safeguarding. It is hazardous to both both in case of fall of a stone, and in case of fall of a rising climber. It is not necessary to distract extraneous conversations. In case of fall of a stone the upper climber immediately warns of it(this) bottom a hail: “ a stone! ”. The hails bound to work of a cord, also move shortly and precisely: "give out", "take".

At rise ahead there is the strongest climber, he chooses a way and the first it(him) passes(takes place), safeguarded only from below, at draining off he goes the last. Exception is made with very difficult rocks when both of the climber become as though equitable. At draining off going the last besides safeguard only from below, and he needs to organize draining off especially carefully.

All advice(councils) rising it is necessary to submit in the soft companionable form. Is inadmissible to conceive spores(chaffers) on difficult rise. It only irritates rising, he starts to try(taste) new ways, unproductively spends the forces, worries and, eventually, can be broken. All indicatings on work of the rock-climber are given only after draining off or on a safe place.
Advice(Councils) to the rock-climber

The rock-climber should possess will to a victory, strong nerves, good heart and tenacious fingers on strong arms(hand). Boldness and care - the law of the climber. Knowledge and calculation of the forces, ingenuity and a sober estimation of the moment - the mortgage of an accident-free ascention. Lazanie naavos only leads to accident.

The rock-climber cannot be lost at fatality. He needs to be guided and operate(work) immediately resolutely, saving full calmness. Each person can bring up the majority of these qualities in itself. At lazanii it is necessary to remember, that economy sil-a basis of all lazanija. For this purpose it is necessary to see(overlook) in advance all route and to consider it(him) before the beginning lazanija. To have the scheme(plan) and the exact plan of action.

At lazanii it is necessary to save three points of a leg and to move smoothly, without jerks, it is is well-timed relaxing and loading muscles, carefully checking grabs and emphasises.

It is necessary lazat mainly on legs(foots), supporting(maintaining) arms(hand) a body in equilibrium. Lazat it is necessary in raspor, avoiding pullings up, using otzhimami for a raising of a body upwards.

L. GUTMAN, WITH. HODAKEVICH, AND. ANTONOVICH. TECHNICS(TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT) OF MOUNTANEERING
The MANUAL FOR BEGINNING(STARTING) CLIMBERS

It is approved by section of mountaneering of All-Union committee on affairs of physical culture, and sports at SNK USSR

The STATE PUBLISHING HOUSE “ PHYSICAL CULTURE and sports ” Moscow 1939