Equipment of the climber

Equipment of the climber (ledorub, cats, krjuchja), its(his) regimentals (the jacket, trousers, boots), the equipment play a huge role at an ascention. Using "arsenal", the climber successfully overcomes obstacles, is covered from a bad weather, protects itself from obmorazhivanija and colds. Success and safety of each ascention appreciably depend on maintenance of climbing group with superfine(high-grade) equipment. This equipment should be made of strong materials, is exact correspond(meet) to specifications, and is necessarily carefully checked up. All clothes steal up the corresponding(meeting) sizes and well adjusted. A jacket, trousers, a sweater, linen free enough and not constraining movements, in at the same time not too wide.

All clothes of the climber should be enough warm. The storm suit should protect well from a wind and a moisture, passing(missing) at the same time vaporizations of a body. In mountains each superfluous kg of weight slows down rate of promotion of climbers and causes premature weariness. Therefore the equipment should be made of the lungs on weight of materials. The kit of equipment should correspond(meet) to the planned route.

To the climber spending the annual holiday in mountains, it is necessary to get own equipment corresponding(meeting) all these demands.
Ledorub

Ledorub reminds on appearance a pick, he serves as a leg at promotion on an ice and firn. Ledorubom cut down steps, palpate a surface of ice cellars and snow fields, it(him) use for ohranenija on ice, firnovyh and snow slopes (fig. 2).

Ledorub consists of a head (And), handles () and shtychka (). The head has a bill () and a scapula (), is manufactured, as well as shtychok, from quality steel.

The extremities(ends) of a bill, scapula and shtychka should be exposed to training. The wooden handle has the oval form and is produced(made) from selective jasenja with direct layers without knots, for durability becomes impregnated with hot vegetable oil. The handle is surrounded by a slipping metal ring with attached to them temljakom, in which climber passes an arm(a hand).
Fig. 2. Ledorub

Length temljaka about 25 sm, temljak should be hardly tightened(delayed) always that the climber could not drop ledorub. Weight ledoruba-1-1 1/2 kg. Dlina-800-900 mm. For a choice to itself ledoruba on body height the climber puts ledorub near to itself, leaning(basing) on it(him) slightly incurvated arm(hand). Ledorub should be counterbalanced on third of the length, including from a head. It is necessary to watch(keep up), that kljuz and shtychok have always been well grinded. Before each ascention it is necessary to check up, whether has frayed temljak in a place of an attachment to a ring. For the best safety temljaka it is done(made) tin obodok in ushke rings.

It is necessary to use cautiously ledorubom at walking on moraines. Here it is possible to break easily the extremity(end) ledoruba, casually having jammed it(him) between stones. When ledorubom do not use, it is necessary to hold it(him) shtychkom forward and downwards to not touch behind going. At lazany on rocks is better to wear ledorub in rukzake a head downwards. Except for ordinary ledorubov, for the complex(difficult) routes bound to overcoming ice stenok, apply also ledoruby with the truncated handle: them it is more convenient to mince steps upwards.
Cats

Only application of cats has allowed climbers to rise confidently on abrupt ice and firnovym to slopes. The cats consisting of two parts and made of quality steel (fig. 3) are most convenient desjatizubye. Weight of one pair of 1-1,2 kg. One tooth of cats at test for durability should maintain weight up to 80 kg.
Rice 3. Cats

Zubja cats should have the tetrahedral form. Their thickness at the basis - 8-10 mm, length--40-50 of the mm, two average teeth is a little bit shorter (on 3-4 mm). Zubja one should be placed widely and on identical distances from others on length of a boot, zubja should be under edge of a sole, not standing out for a toe and a heel. At such arrangement zubev sticks a snow less. The extremities(ends) zubev zakalivajutsja, their all case remains viscous(viscid) and resilient. Cats should be well driven(adjusted) on footwear. Zubja should be always grinded. It is impossible to be limited to sharpening of the extremities(ends) zubev. Sharpening is made so that zubja saved the konusnuju the form on all length. It is necessary to give to the extremities(ends) zubev after sharpening the form of a pallet knife not more widely 2-3 mm.

Cats are attached to a boot by constant alcoholization with prjazhkami or a match. It is recommended to sew both of the extremity(end) of a match to rings at a back of cats. SHnurovka it is pulled together on rise of a leg(foot) by a separate chunk of a match, not too hardly, the circulation and a leg(foot) otherwise is at a loss will be merznut.

Units are fastened from lateral aspect of a boot, and it is necessary to watch(keep up), that from this side "tails" did not dangle(did not hang about). In 10-15 minutes after putting on of cats, and also before hazardous places and before draining off the climber checks durability shnurovki.

During a transferring of cats in rukzake them put in a special canvas cover with plywood or tin bottom(fundus). It is recommended to wrap also cats a chunk of a dense canvas, prorezinennoj tissues or felt, using them on a lodging for the night as a drawsheet. It is recommended to take a file on greater(big) ascentions.
Cord

The cord is an integral part of equipment of the climber. She provides ohranenie, serves as an indispensable element for the majority of techniques. More detailed indicatings on application of the basic and auxiliary cords, loops Prussika and rings are given in the chapter(head) “ Application verejki ”.

Cords share on pletenye and kruchenye. Is better to use kruchenoj a cord as stronger. As a material for manufacturing a cord can serve: dlinnovoloknistaja hemp, a linen thread, a sea grass or, that is much worse, a long cotton thread. The cord from this thread rastrepyvaetsja on separate fibers and soon loses the durability.

The basic cord has diameter of 12 14 mm and should maintain at test for break of 850-1200 kg that corresponds(meets) to tenfold weight of the person. The cord should be enough elastic and soft. Its(her) ordinary length of 25-30 m, for more complex(difficult) routes apply a cord in 40 and more meters. The good cord almost does not imbibe a moisture and quickly dries out. Its(her) middle is marked(celebrated) by a constant color notch for a fast finding of this place at linkage, draining off "djulferom" and other receptions.

The cord demands careful leaving(care) and accurate treatment. Vymokshuju the cord should be dried carefully in the stretched(dragged out) kind. Before a yield(an exit) on employment(occupations) and furthermore before an ascention it is necessary to check up all cord. Never it is necessary to become on a cord boots and cats, the cord should be preserved against falling stones, to not allow her to rub about acute rocks, smoothing their rocky hammer or enclosing(laying) under a cord soft subjects.

The auxiliary cord-репшнур is done(made) of the same material, as well as the basic, but its(her) diameter of 6-8 mm; she should maintain of 400-600 kg on break. The length of the extremities(ends) is a little bit more, than at the basic cord. From this cord fasten the extremities(ends) for loops Prussika, stremjan and rings.

At transition on avalanche sites last from ligament(cord;sheaf) adheres an avalanche cord which is dragged that to a snow to a girdle. Length of a cord - 25 m, thickness - 3 - 4 mm.

The cord is done(made) red color, he is much lighter an ordinary cord; if climber the avalanche the cord normally remains on a surface fell asleep.
Carbine and krjuchja

The carbine serves as an intermediate connecting part between a hook and a cord; he facilitates using a cord and krjuchjami. Carbines are produced(made) from quality prutkovoj steel. For threading a cord they have trip with a spring. Carbines should maintain of 1200-1500 kg on a stretching. There are some types of carbines. On rocks it is recommended to apply carbines of the oval form, on an ice - bulb-shaped(piriform). The size of a carbine-100Х50 of mm, thickness prutka-10-11 mm.
Rocky krjuchja
Fig. 4. Rocky krjuchja

Krjuchja are hammered into an ice and in cracks of rocks for ohranenija and for creation of additive(additional) points of a leg on abrupt, difficult sites of a way.

Rocky krjuchja (fig. 4) are hammered into cracks of rocks. These(it) krjuchja share on two types: for horizontal and for vertical cracks. Each of these types has some sizes for zabivki in cracks of different width. At an ascention it is necessary to have assortment krjuchev the different sizes. Length of a hook--120-150 of mm. Krjuchja are done(made) of soft, viscous(viscid) steel, the extremity(end) of a head podkalivaetsja.

Ice krjuchja (fig. 5) are hammered into an ice and in hard firn. Length of a hook - 200-250 mm, jaggies are had on all length of a hook, in a head the mobile welded ring is strengthened. The head of a hook is turned on 90.

The hook for firn is twice longer ice, is used seldom.

The rocky hammer serves for zabivki krjuchev and should be weighty enough. Section of a hammer 25Х25 or 30Х30 mm. Length ruchki-200-250 mm. On the extremity(end) of the handle the hole for a cord is bored through. At an ascention a hammer wear normally sideways, or in a back pocket of trousers, or at a girdle, it is obligatory on shnurke, put on through a brachium.
Ice hook
Fig. 5. An ice hook

The ice hammer serves for zabivki krjuchev, and on the complex(difficult) routes bound to overcoming steep ice stenok, is used for felling an ice. Length of the handle--200-250 of mm. The head is produced(made) from quality steel, a bill and boek zakalivajutsja.
Footwear

In conditions of a mountain hike or an ascention the footwear of the climber gets special value(meaning;importance). The high-mountainous footwear should be very strong, water-proof, protecting leg(foot) from a frost, from impacts about stones. High-mountainous boots are sewed from strong, prozhirovannoj jufti on a thick double sole, with a strong welt and a hard toe. The top is done(made) full, without seams at a toe, with inner leather podnarjadom.

Normally boots steal up on 1-2 numbers more that they were freely put on 2-3 steams(pairs) of woolen toes(socks). The leg(foot) should not be constrained by a boot, fingers of legs(foots) should not rest against a toe: in close footwear easily to freeze fingers and a foot of legs(foots). Boots should have strong shnurki, is better from syromjatnoj skins. For heat and for preservation of a leg(foot) from an attrition the felt insole is enclosed(laid). At dense shnurovke valves of a new boot should not converge on rise of a leg(foot) on 15-20 mm that it was possible then pereshnurovat boots potuzhe as at draining off the leg(foot) in a boot leaves to a toe and all gravity is passed to fingers which take up very much a greater(big) load.

The sole and heel are fettered, for what serve trikoni, kostylkovye nails and special podkovki. After a hike and homing from employment(occupations) it is necessary to wipe carefully a mud and to dry boots on air.

In no event it is impossible to dry boots at a fire, ovens or long time for the sun when the temperature of air exceeds 25. During halts it is not necessary to heat near a fire of a leg(foot) in boots.

The best impregnation are vorvan or tar. It is necessary to slush all boot down to a sole. It is impossible to slush badly dried boots, access of air and a skin quickly in this case stops rots.

For preservation of a sole from aging aggression and for the best gearing at walking on rocky, firnovym, to ice and grassy slopes boots are fettered trikonjami and podkovkami. Trikoni represent steel procarved a plate with the bent edges. Thickness - 2-2 1/2 mm, height зубьев--8-10 mm. Rantovye trikoni place on a welt of a sole and attach screws or brackets. Medial trikoni krepjat screws and the thorns which are being on trikonjah. Length, screws - 15 mm, thickness of 2,5-3 mm. Trikoni, attached by shorter screws, quickly throw out. Trikoni on a heel have the greatest load and most quickly wear out, to a heel are applied podkovki with removable trikonjami. podkovku do(make) of duralumin, she covers all heel and fastens to it(him;them) screws.

So-called morozki - the metal mugs(circles) stuffed on a sole, - do not interfere with sliding and for climbers are unusable.

Trikoni stuff on a dry sole and preliminary slush with Adeps. Trikoni, hammered into the soaked sole, rust and quickly throw out, as the skin around of them "fuses".

For the ascentions bound to stay at greater(big) heights of the order 6 - 7 thousand in m, at very low temperature is used special footwear - shekeltony or specially upholstered valenoks. For lazanija on rocks canvas rocky shoes with a rope or felt sole are used.

It is possible to use for lazajaija on dry rocks and new slippers on a rubber sole.
Glasses(Spots)

Dark glasses(spots) protect eyes from action of solar beams at movement on firnovym and to snow slopes and are necessary even in cloudy weather. Glasses(spots) have greenish either yellow or smoky glasses in a metal frame. In a frame there should be holes for ventilation, differently glasses(spots) become covered by a perspiration. Edges of a frame are sheathed by a skin or a matter. It is necessary for climber to have 2 lary the glasses(spots), one of them with more light glasses. The second pair of glasses(spots) take as reserve on an event of breakage, as it is possible to go blind easily if to go without glasses(spots).
Rukzak

Rukzak should be convenient, capacious, strong and waterproof. He is put on shoulders by means of straps. As a material for it(him) the light(mild) canvas serves. Rukzak has three pockets: average and two long side. Straps are filed by felt. The weight put on rukzaka should have basically a little below a loin. Correct packing(stacking) of things has Great value. Soft things should be stacked a small layer more close to a back. The most serious subjects (cans, krjuchja) to put for the bottom(fundus) and to a back. A delivery and equipment which can be necessary in a way and on halts, it is necessary to stack upward.

Except for ordinary rukzakov, are used also rukzaki with the machine tool. Such machine tool distributes(allocates) a load on a back in regular more intervals, passing a part of weight on a loin, and frames ventilation for a back. Stankovyj rukzak it is inconvenient for transportation a way and at lazany on rocks.
Storm suit

For protection against a bad weather, a strong wind, a snow, a buran, a rain and a cold the storm suit from waterproof serves, but to an air-permeable tissue, for example, from the light(mild) canvas impregnated by special contents. To sew a suit, and in particular trousers, from proelastic it is not recommended. The suit consists of a shirt or a jacket with a hood and trousers. A jacket do(make) enough wide, with a girdle which is pulled together at beder, and a fastener. Under a fastener there are valves. The shirt of type "anoraki" with a fastener at a girdle is put on through a head and clasped(buttoned) by "lightning". Such shirt is most convenient. The jacket and a shirt have enough of pockets. To a collar of a jacket or a shirt the hood is fastened. Trousers have no fasteners and are pulled together pojaskom or shnurkom on a waist and on shchikolotkah. The suit should not constrain movements and easily be put on atop of clothes.
Sleeping bag

The sleeping bag serves for a lodging for the night in conditions of low temperature and a bad weather. The climber quite often should spend the night in a sleeping bag without tent.

The sleeping bag consists of three parts: coating, a bag and the loose leaf. The coating is done(made) from waterproof, but an air-permeable material, a bag - from guilted in sateen or perkale down, cotton or batting. The best are down bags which are very warm at small weight. Instead of a bedsheet inside of a bag the loose leaf from a cloth or flannels is thrust. The Sleeping bag should weigh 2-2,5 kg.

The climber should be located in a bag with a head. In the upper part the bag has a slit with fasteners. The bag after a dream is necessary for drying.
Tent

The tent should be waterproof, protecting from a wind, a snow, a rain and saving warmly. She should easily and be placed quickly with a minimum of fittings. It is produced(made) from a light(mild) canvas or perkalja. The roof is recommended to be produced(made) from thin prorezinennogo perkalja (odnoslojki), l-from two-layer perkalja.

Climbers use "shusterom" more often. He has a flat roof and is established(installed) on ledorubah, well saves heat and is poorly subject to action of a wind, but is very low, the roof often sags and then passes(misses) water.

We recommend to use truncated poludatskoj tent or improved "shusterom" with dvuskatnoj a roof. They are established(installed) on faggot racks or on ledorubah with nadstavkoj. Tents need to be dried carefully: the proelastic combined in a wet state, very quickly spoils.

At an ascention on difficult tops climbers sometimes take with themselves tent of type "Zdarskogo". It is a wide bag from prorezinennogo silks or lawn in the size 2 X 1,5 m. Ranging on a lodging for the night or being covered from a bad weather, climbers sit down in a circle and are covered with this tent, crushing under itself its(her) edges.

It is recommended to have a wide raincoat-cape from thin proelastic which is put on atop rukzaka.

The climbing jacket and trousers-golfs are done(made) of a strong woolen tissue, bele-from thin woolen jersey; a jersey (it is better to have their two), varezhki, a helmet, gloves, stockings, toes(socks) (4-6 steams(pairs)) also should be from a pure(clean) wool. The wool in comparison with other tissues much lighter, more warmly, she quickly dries out, and to her the snow does not stick.

For the climber woolen toes(socks) have exclusive value(meaning;importance). Toes(socks) should protect well legs(foots) from a cold, attritions and external damages. Toes(socks) match from the sheep or camel wool, is better thick toes(socks) manual are viscous.

**

Except for these things, (each climber should have: to a mug, the spoon, a knife, a fork, a kettle, a flask, soap, a tooth-brush and Pasta, shaving accessories(belongings), grocery saccules (up to 6 pieces). The group going on an ascention, should have: a compass, an altimeter (altimetr), the field-glass, maps, a lantern, the first-aid set, harmonious(collapsible) a kerosene stove and a flask with kerosene or kitchen(cuisine) "meta", a whistle, suppositories, matches, ointment for footwear, a notebook and a pencil.

At long stay in district of eternal snows climbers should provide themselves for this time with hot nutrition, using a harmonious(collapsible) kerosene stove or hiking kuhonkoj. Up to height of the order 4,5-5 thousand in m use a harmonious(collapsible) kerosene stove with taken out legs(pinches) and a unscrewing head. Kerosene is transferred(carried) in flat flasks. Above this zone the kerosene stove already refuses to work because of a rarefied air. Here the climber uses kitchen(cuisine) "meta", heated by dry alcohol. This kitchen(cuisine) consists of a torch, the protective cone, two casseroles and a cap(cover)-оковородки. She is light on weight, convenient in circulation, burns at any height and is not blown almost by a wind.

L. GUTMAN, WITH. HODAKEVICH, AND. ANTONOVICH. TECHNICS(TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT) OF MOUNTANEERING
The MANUAL FOR BEGINNING(STARTING) CLIMBERS

It is approved by section of mountaneering of All-Union committee on affairs of physical culture, and sports at SNK USSR

The STATE PUBLISHING HOUSE “ PHYSICAL CULTURE and sports ” Moscow 1939