Climbing Kazbek, Georgia
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To understand the peculiarities of the ascent to Kazbek, it would be logical to compare it with the ascent to Elbrus. On the one hand, Kazbek is simpler, there are no volcanic gases in the atmosphere and it's much easier to breathe. The same miner usually starts here only at an altitude of 4800 m - on Elbrus she can easily "attack" another 3600 (even with the correct acclimatization schedule). At Kazbek, the assault camp is much closer to the summit, on the day of the ascent it will be necessary to climb only 700 meters (from 4300 to 5033 m). For comparison, storming Mount Elbrus from the North, it is necessary to fly up to 1900 meters per day (from 3740 to 5621). But on the other hand, on Kazbek, the road to the summit passes through a much more rugged terrain - there is a very steep slope with a huge number of cracks. Therefore, almost all the time we will move around in bundles. We must not forget about rockfalls ... In general, it will be fun - join :)
Tbilisi - Military Georgian road - Stepantsminda - Orzveri glacier - Betolemi weather station - firn plateau - Kazbek peak - Weather station - Stepantsminda - TbilisiPlan a hike. To properly warm up before climbing Kazbek can join the campaign on pedestrian Svaneti (14 days , 116 kilometers). In our schedule hikes these two rounds are always nearby. Day 1 . Gathering in Tbilisi. Group meets in Tbilisi, pre-booked hostel. From the airport to the hostel participants get yourself a taxi or bus . Settled in a hostel can be a couple of hours to walk around the city. Instructor meanwhile engaged in the purchase of food and fuel for the ascent . Evening group meets together , the instructor distributes products , check the equipment , answers questions . By the way, on a hike in the hostel can store their extra stuff ( eg clean clothes ) . Day 2 . Ananuri fortress , Georgian Military Road, Stephantsminda , Tsminda Sameba , Sobertse pass . Early breakfast at the hostel. At 8 am we arrive at the van. Leaving Tbilisi, and about 3 hours drive to s.Kazbegi ( Stephantsminda ) . Along the way, make a few stops for sightseeing : fortress Ananuri observation deck on the Georgian Military Road , mineral waterfalls. In Stephantsminda (altitude 1750m ) transplanted from a minibus in jeeps that take us to the picturesque church Gergetis Tsminda Sameba (altitude 2170m ) . There we recruit spring water, a snack and get ready to go. Relatively gentle ascent to the pass Sobertse (2700 m ) will get into shape and stretch their legs after a long drive . Kazbek itself was visible to us from the very beginning , but only after the pass we " show " a magnificent glacier and moraine . Then gradually to a height traversuem 2800 , boosting the small mountain river (you can generally jump ) and find ourselves in the "Green Room " . It's comfortable, smooth place to camp , with a source of clean water ( in the river, through which we jumped, it is cloudy , almost black ) . To get to them you must cross the raging black stream - just cross from shore to shore , from stone to stone . But something tells me that many of you this step to remember. Day 3 . Glacier Ortsveri , weather station , chapel Betlemi . After an hour's walk along the deep canyon we finally stepped onto the glacier Ortsveri . If permit instructor , in good weather, you can go completely without cats. A half-hour cross the glacier diagonally , then desperately looking like him crawl on the ground. The last spurt ( up of course) and we have weather stations ( 3660 m) . Instructor-led camp and set up tents on strengthening the case of strong wind. Then checking in at rescuers , paying them 10 GEL tent. Dine . After some rest go to Radialka the rock ( 3915 m) hanging over the camp. Legends claim that at its peak was once Bethlehem Monastery ( Betlemi ), but it's hard to believe - painfully harsh place . Now the rock is the chapel of the original design (something vehicular ) . Get down, dine , freeze - there may already be a night frost . Day 4 . Acclimatization firn plateau ( 4300 m) , wall Hmaura glacier Gergeti . We have breakfast , dressed thermoses, take warm clothes and lunch snack - we go to the big 6-8 hours acclimatization . The camp does not turn off , tents remain in place. A couple of hours we propetlyaem in moraine labyrinths ( keep up !) , Then quickly run through smooth but dangerous rockfalls plot Hmaura wall . In the end, go straight to the snowfields - a plateau of Kazbek ( 4300 m) . Tomorrow we will set here assault camp for climbing Kazbek . In the meantime, get used to the lack of oxygen , cold winds and fierce ultraviolet. Leisurely lunch , take pictures and start the descent back to the weather station . Day 5 . High camp ( 4300 m) . Today we move their tents on the plateau . So collect the camp and leave for Weather unnecessary things , including rations for the return trip . Trails already familiar way on the plateau. There, under the supervision of instructors begin construction assault camp . Carefully bury in the snow and stretch tents, build windproof walls . To more or less normal to sleep that night , after dinner, we need the time to do another acclimatization . To do this, we will go forward on the path to the top at least to a height of 4500m . Low -being are closely watching , with exacerbation of altitude sickness immediately wake instructor ! Day 6 . Day of rest. Snow-ice sessions . To organism successfully prepared for tomorrow's ascent of Kazbek he needed leisure . To do this, arrange snow-ice sessions . Will train to go to a bunch of cats and move to the steep slope , spent samozaderzhanie ax . And after pack backpacks for tomorrow's assault and go to bed early . Day 7 . Climbing Kazbek . Rise at 3 am . Continental Breakfast , thorough " dressing " and around 4 am pushed forward to meet the dawn ! Until approximately 5 hours vertices move. Until the end, we go in bunches , as the path is cracked and dangerous steep slopes. But this period is usually enough snow most of the cracks covered, and on the slopes easier to do steps. Kazbek rising saddle , we will climb up just a little on the steep firn slope next to rocky ledges . Follow all instructions of trainers , have patience and fight for their victory. After the descent from the top (this will be around noon ) collect tents and portable camp back to the weather station . Day 8 and 9. Reserve days . This spare days in case if you need more or acclimatization is bad weather . We want to climb to the top and not just spend time or play roulette with a tight schedule . If these days are not spent, then we can make an additional climbing on the neighboring peaks , or go on a trip to Tbilisi. Day 10 . Descent to Stephantsminda , return to Tbilisi Skipping cascading down to the village Stephantsminda . There are many unusual oxygen and unbearable heat. It seems to have to get used to this , too - quickly akklimatiziruemsya in a cafe with hachapuri :) Then another 3-4 hours and minibus dropped us off at very very hot Tbilisi. Accommodating to the hostel , shower, clean clothes and here we are on the way to the restaurant with national cuisine - should worthily celebrate the completion of the expedition. Day 11 . Flight home If you do not want to have to walk across Tbilisi , you can fly home . Though the morning. route Map Numerals indicate roosting places . Green points - points of interest along the route. Red line - the route itself. Terms tour. Climbing - a dangerous event . You can get in an avalanche or rockfall , fall into an ice crack or die from altitude sickness . You should be aware of health risks and assess their strength and level of training. Each participant climbing own decision about participation in the program and is responsible for their actions (or inaction) . A route changes are possible (depending on the weather, and our group you wish ) . To participate in the ascent of Kazbek required : Experience in trekking and absence of medical contraindications . For travel abroad need a passport :) For citizens of Ukraine and Russia in Georgia visa is not required. All accommodations in tents , although if you want to be removed Weather bunk on those 2 nights that we will stand beside her. Preparing food on the petrol primus ( have instructor ) . Gasoline and food purchased centrally and distributed in Tbilisi on backpacks participants. In some cases delivery from backpacks to Stephantsminda Weather available horses. But do not expect too much on it . More List of needed items and equipment. Among other things , take insect repellent spray and a long sleeve shirt . Medical contraindications to participate in a mountain hike .