Soviet Alpinism

The Soviet people want to know your beautiful home: they bravely paddle kayaks light Siberian rivers, they are rising to the top of the diamond of their homeland. Noble and thrilling sport - climbing - only in the Soviet Union became available workers. Stakhanovite worker, student-student, Soviet intellectuals use their vacation for a fascinating journey through the mountains and valleys blooming Soviet soil. The Soviet people want to know your beautiful home: they bravely paddle kayaks light Siberian rivers, they are rising to the top of the diamond of their homeland. Noble and thrilling sport - climbing - only in the Soviet Union became available workers. Stakhanovite worker, student-student, Soviet intellectuals use their vacation for a fascinating journey through the mountains and valleys blooming Soviet soil. Tsarist Russia, the former for many centuries a prison of nations, could grow even mountaineers from among the brave mountaineers. And the old chronicles and archival documents show that among the nations, now part of the fraternal family of the USSR, was the remarkable climbers.

In XVII century. Imereti embassy led state treasurer Lomkatsi Japaridze, moving Muscovy passed through the Greater Caucasus mountain range to successfully overcome the most difficult glaciers and high passes, including a difficult pass Gezevtsek. This pass was successful and the Russian expedition led by Nicephorus Tolchanovym (in XVII century.).

In ancient manuscripts of John Batonishvili - "Kalmasoba" - Georgia researchers have found mention of the fact that the Highlander Joseph Mohevets to climb Mount Kazbegi (Kazbek) in the reign of Heraclius II, ie, between the years 1744-1798. Kazbegi exceeds the highest mountain in Western Europe and one of the "five thousand meters" Caucasus (its height is 5043 m.) It is very likely that the unknown Mohevets made his heroic ascent well before European climbers. The fact that Elbrus was conquered by man long before climbing Freshfilda, considered the first climber, according to documents related to the colonization of the Caucasus by the tsarist government. In 1829, one of Nicholas colonizers Caucasus - General Emmanuel - accompanied by several scientists went to study the area of ​​Elbrus. Sitting at the foot of the majestic Ming-tau, which means on-Balkaria, "as thousands of mountains", the general observed through a telescope, as the endless snow fields crawl dark spots - people. As you approach the top of their number to decline, and ascended to the top of one person. General ordered to welcome gun salute in honor of the brave. But what was a surprise to the general, when he learned that the man who has reached the top, was a "foreigner" - Balkar Killara, the guide of the expedition. This fact silenced chauvinist bourgeois historians.

In Tsarist Russia was the lot of climbing a few wealthy people.

only in the Soviet Union the right to rest included in the constitution, put into practice since the first years of the Great October Socialist Revolution and is now enshrined in Article 115 of the Constitution of the USSR.

Every year tens of thousands of Soviet people involved in tourist trips and excursions , exciting climbing the snowy peaks of the Caucasus, Altai, Tien Shan.

Soviet mountaineering young, as young, and our entire country, but it is growing and moving forward by leaps and bounds.

In 1923 climbers Soviet Georgia made the first mass ascent of Kazbegi. The historic ascent were 18 climbers, including 5 women. Tbilisi University students who participated in the ascent, have studied the area of ​​glaciers and gathered valuable meteorological data. One after another, moving columns of climbers on Kazbegi, Elbrus and other peaks. In 1925, after a thorough training on the glaciers, the Georgian mountaineers climbed Elbrus.

Climbing in the Soviet Union became a true school of courage, which were severe, but a fascinating study of thousands of young people. Already in 1930 Elbrus rose 46 Soviet climbers. Now, that figure seems negligible. But it is enough to compare with the statistics Elbrus after Freshfilda - an average of less than one person per year - in order to understand the significance of this figure.

The head of the Soviet government, Comrade Molotov estimated growth of Soviet climbing as one of the achievements of socialist construction. In his closing remarks at the 2nd session of the USSR Central Executive VII calling Comrade Molotov said:

"In our country, a growing number of heroes WHO spirit submarine heroes, heroes of the struggle with nature.

As an example, I cite the following fact about climbing the highest mountain in Europe, the ascent of Mount Elbrus. According to the Society for Proletarian Tourism, from 1829 to 1914, Mount Elbrus was only 59 climbs, including 47 foreigners. Over the last years, the situation here completely changed. It turns out that one in 1935 to 2016 was climbing Elbrus Soviet people.

Here's one example of how life has changed. In the past, the hard life of the working people did not give them to think about such things as exciting climbing the highest mountain. Now the situation has changed, and new interests. What had not thought becomes interesting, especially for our youth "(Molotov, Articles and Speeches 1935-1936 gg, 195, Partizdat, 1937). < p align = "justify"> Before the Great October Socialist Revolution in the list of conquerors peaks of the Caucasus were mostly names of the Germans, British and Austrians. Russian mining company was closed aristocratic clubs: members it could not boast of any achievements. Donnish klubmeny failed to come up to any of the technically difficult peaks. Foreigners with the gracious connivance royal officials ascend to the top, not only from a purely sporting purposes - passing "climbers" carefully studied the frontier mountains of the Caucasus and Central Asia, mapping and collecting materials that interested not so much the European scientific community as the relevant departments of Staff.

"In recent years, the situation has changed completely and there." Soviet mountaineers on the number of commitments they have "seven thousand" (ie, the peaks above 7000 meters above sea level) in 1937 came in first place in the world, surpassing the famous climbers - the British and the Germans. The Soviet people have now become true masters of their land, its snowy peaks.

For mountaineering tradition, the first climb to the top puts on her stone pyramid tour and leaves her a note. This note takes a proof of his ascent climber, he followed her to the mountain. There are cases when the hard tops such notes lay untouched for 10 - 20 years. And in 1937, Uzhbe, top of great difficulty, several groups of Soviet climbers were unable to even put a note in the tour and just passed them from hand to hand. But Uzhba no small mountains, that's why she is called the "Caucasian Matergornom" that points to the dangers faced by climbers on the slopes of the mountain.

1938 was a watershed year! Soviet mountaineering. New people are honest and faithful to the end of the socialist cause, came to the leadership of mountaineering and honorably acquitted their trust. This year was a jubilee year for climbers of our country, the 20-year anniversary, since the founding of the Young Communist League, the year of the 15th anniversary of the Soviet mountaineering.

brave climbers, young patriots of the country of socialism, as a gift of mother home made galaxy record ascents of international importance. These most difficult climbs on top of Soviet mountaineers denied demagogic talk Nazi bosses mountaineering clubs, tried to claim that will be many decades before the climbers of our country will be able to make the ascent of high-end challenges.

Summer 1938 . as mountain slopes was unfavorable for climbing, yet successfully, without a sacrifice, conquered the most difficult peaks of Europe, ended with a wonderful traverse ice walls, the dream world renowned climbers.

First passed in the history of mountaineering traverse a series of the most difficult peaks: Dykh Tau - Mijirghi - Krumkol - Koshtan-tau. Each of these peaks is itself quite difficult to climb. With the passage of the climber has to traverse at a height close to the saddle of Elbrus, overcome Frost and snow-covered rocks, steep ridges and icy, dangerous avalanche slopes.

During this traverse was made the first ascent of the Soviet eastern peak Dykh-tau peak Pushkin and Eastern Mijirghi. On the complexity of the route can be judged from the fact that Europe's best climbers, world class athletes, could not pass the entire traverse, and made it to split into two separate groups: one traversed Dykh Tau - Mijirghi, another - Krumkol - Koshtan- tau.

Young Soviet climbers, members of the public "Wings of the Soviets", passed the full traverse of the famous Bezingiyskoy wall.

This wall is located in the center of the main Caucasus Mountains and stretches for 10 km. On the wall stands a group of beautiful peaks, led by Shkhara, the third highest in Europe.

group of climbers carefully prepared for his ascent poring area was perfectly united and armed with a heavy combat difficulties mining disaster. In a perfect pace climbers in eight days have passed all the top of the wall: the eastern, western and main Shkhara, peak Shota Rustaveli, Eastern and Western Janga-tau, tau Katyn, and Lyalver Gestola summits. A number of superb climbing - the most convincing proof of the success of the Soviet mountaineering.

remarkable success achieved Soviet mountaineers and accompany them in the ascent flight link "and the Pamir and Tien Shan. One summer in 1937 had been taken "seven thousand" of the Soviet Union - the greatest peaks of our country: the peak of Stalin, Lenin Peak, Korjenevskaya.

Soviet climbers - students and researchers of Moscow universities - for several years devoted their summer holidays studying one of the most remote mountain ranges of the Tien Shan. In 1936, they were able to finally overcome the mountain barriers and penetrated deep into the ridge, where they saw a rare in beauty snowy peaks, which unanimously was named the "peak of the Stalin Constitution." Approaching autumn with its terrible weather and snowstorms, so the climbers were not able to climb this peak. Having arrived at this place in 1937, the group has successfully climbed to the peak of the Constitution, the peak of the Nansen peak Karpinski and several other peaks.

In 1938 the Komsomol group expedition successfully climbed Mount unnamed ice wall with a raised her peak, which was named after the climbers of the 20th anniversary of the Komsomol. Difficulty climbing compounded by the fact that it was committed to the north.

Soviet people successfully stormed Soviet mountains. Where a few years ago only a noisy mountain streams, now turn white tent mountaineering camps, and hundreds of young men and women, gay and happy - master the basics of mining equipment.

If in 1936 the trade unions and voluntary sports clubs have 11 mining camps, through which passed two thousand climbers, in 1938 in the Caucasus, Altai and Tien Shan was organized about 50 mining camps and mountain shelters. More than 20 thousand people. participated in mountaineering expeditions, tens of thousands of Soviet people have gone through the mountain passes and routes.

With concern of the Party and the Soviet government was climbing a solid financial base and has become one of the favorite sports and recreation of the Soviet youth. Only unions were released in 1938, 50 million rubles. on tourism and mountaineering - a great deal to allow a wide and culturally serve large army of tourists and mountaineers. And are being built comfortable houses tourists in Kabardino-Balkaria, Karachai, Central Asia, including "hotel above the clouds" - tourist hotel at Mt at an altitude of 4250 m above sea level.

advanced detachment of Soviet climbers are climbing the Red Army in 1938, has successfully completed its anniversary Alpiniad. After a difficult march through the mountain passes of the Main Caucasus range, enthusiastically welcomed the mountaineers, climbers column fell to their camp at the foot of Mount Elbrus. Alpiniad finish was simultaneously both climbing Elbrus. Efficient organization, strict discipline, the Stalinist concern for people, perfect mastery of mining equipment, indomitable will to win, these character traits army climber-worthy example for every Soviet climbers.

Pests and traitors , made his way to the leadership of the former society Proletarian Tourism and excursions, to the leadership of climbing sections, sought to discredit is a big deal. Hundreds of thousands of rubles spent on spectacular hikes, which involved a handful of "elite", and the mass climbing remained homeless. People were allowed to responsible climbing unprepared, without the proper equipment. The camps also among climbers has been no political work.

man walking in the mountains, should be particularly attentive and watchful, he is responsible not only for their own lives, but for the life of comrades ligament. And among mountaineers and adventurers appeared uhari blindly imitating bourgeois mountaineering with his aimless pursuit of thrills.

Before going to the mountain hiking, mountain climber must carefully, even meticulously check their readiness for struggle. Soviet Union has brought a lot of heroes. They defeated the North Pole, won the Northern Sea Route, a paved through a blizzard and cyclones route from the Soviet capital to the Pacific Ocean, have shown the world their courage and perseverance in the battle with the arrogant Japanese Samurai. And it's all accompanied by a brave for his impeccable mastery of the case, are excellent material part, the careful preparation to detail.

Big victories require much work on yourself. The struggle for the trouble-free climbing, climbers political education in the spirit of the party of Lenin and Stalin, the increasing role of the instructor-teacher and educator of young climbers, mastering advanced technology - on this basis the Soviet mountaineers achieve new victories.

We know the scrutiny takes place every flight instructor case. Entrusted to him not only a valuable car, but the most precious capital in the Soviet Union - a man's life. No less stringent requirements should we submit to the instructor and mountain sports.

addition to climbing the mountain peaks of exceptional importance in our country has the saddle climbing. Classic, the finest examples of this approach is Suvorov through the Alps. The enemies of the people, was operating in the Soviet mountaineering, belittled the importance of the saddle climbing, hindered its development. Meanwhile ability at a good pace to cross the mountain range, to find the most profitable way to set the correct mode campaign and departed without a hold populous column from one valley to another is impossible without extensive training and a good knowledge of the case.

These paramilitary campaigns as transitions participants climbing camps" Steel "and" Lightning "the pass-Aush Koyavgan and Adil-Su gorge or go 168 climbers camp Terskolskogo tourist and excursion control of the All Balkaria Karachay, Svaneti and back demonstrated the success of this kind of mountain marches and aroused great interest among the participants.

one comes to the mountains interested in the life and lifestyle of people living in mountainous country. Courageous Highlanders boldly defended their land, fighting for freedom and a better life. Sons and daughters of the great Russian people with a sense of unconditional love and respect to utter the name of the great Lenin steadfast ally and successor of his case, the son of the Georgian people - Stalin. From among the peoples of the Caucasus were such brave knights of the revolution, as comrades Ordzhonikidze, Shahumyan, Japaridze, Mikoyan. Worked for many years in the Caucasus and unforgettable Mironovich Sergei Kirov.

now unmasked "leaders" climbing things torn Soviet climbing on the current political problems, they rob from the programs of study of the mining camps of the republics, isolated from climbers the local population.

exceptional values ​​of mountaineering in the country's defense. The mountains offer excellent volitional and physical training, they teach is not lost when the difficulties, but easily overcome any and all obstacles.

Mountain - one of the most fascinating sports.