The report on a hike across Crimea for May holidays of 2004.

Written by Игорь, Татьяна и Вася Липины из Москвы Fishing - vdp. Dzhur-Джур - vdp. Dzhurla - JUzh. Demerdzhi - the Valley of Reductions - Angarsk pass - the Hangar-burunr - the Eklizi Burun - peshch. Emine Bair Hosar - peshch. Marble - Perevalnoe - avt. Up to Yalta - a march. Up to Ai Petri - kanatnaja road - Ai Petri - and/m up to a cordon the Fifth Kilometer - the Grand Canyon - vdp. Silver - a cordon the Tea small house - the Roman road - Bajdarskie a gate - Foros About what ticks were silent?

On April, 30th - on May, 11th 2004г.

  The basic text writes Igor, italics - Tanja, semiboldface - vasja

 

On April, 30th, PT

30апреля at 14:00 we send{have left} from the house. Before we prepared much, bought different things: mum has bought{purchased} to me a new jacket lined (its{her} (lining) could be dressed as tolstovki), and the jacket was red color (very beautiful and the necessary size). Still the daddy has bought{purchased} to itself a backpack (Red fox) and new kovrik. To me still mum has bought{purchased} a backpack (Tatonka), mum has named it{him} "Tatoshka". Also has bought{purchased} to itself a lantern (Petzl zipka) (because I the has forgotten in "Zapolitsah"), with four light-emitting diodes (cost 1400, and from me 1200 (because at me was with three light-emitting diodes). And switches different: at mine the switch and one mode, and at maminogo three modes and a button. We have arrived on station at 15:15. The train when has come we had time to buy{purchase}: chocolate Alpen gold, TWIX, bottle PEPSI, 2 bottles « Akva a mineral », beer, « Around of light » and a writing-book. Lodge then in a train and have gone. I have got on the top shelf and began to write a diary. Then I have seen very interesting announcement on stations on a door:

Fast train №107. The schedule.


 

Here and Tula « the Clear glade ». At 19:40 we send{have left} from a train (parking of 11 minutes). It is necessary to buy « the Tula gingerbreads » more quickly. Gingerbreads there was multitudes!!! Were both greater{big} and small and different kinds directly from factory. It were: serdechki, bears, yolochki, triangular and simple rectangular with orange jam, and are still a special kind same rectangular but very tasty. They had internal structure (sgushchenka on taste has seemed better, than usual sgushchyonka) and nuts. We have bought{purchased}: to the daddy with mum two greater{big} bears, And me that rectangular, unusual (about which I just told). Then we lodge in a train and have gone further. And I slowly began to eat gingerbread and to write a diary - up to a following stop « still more many time, the stop will be only at 22:36 - therefore it is possible to have a rest and read magazine " »У«ЯФ«¬убЮїЎ« ". At 22:36 we send{have left} on street in city "Eagle". There was a rain, we have climbed under a roof, then by us has passed still any train. Then we have come into our train and have laid down to sleep. Send{have come} "томожники-shoemakers" at night and have woken all. And at this time I have learned{have found out} number of our train. 107.

« Igor, at me money is not present - only grivna! » - we go on underground transition of Kursk station to a train Moscow-ЯїјхСУ«»«Ѕэ 107. This time we in advance knew where to go. Vanity has left only with equipment. It is bought{purchased} new taganok, Vasina a jacket, small backpack Tatonka and big Red Fox. To Red Foxу for last days sshil three pockets, 1 from which has left houses as superfluous. It is a little things: 2 sleeping bags for three and sublimirovannye products:

We shall drag on mountains

5 edible kg,

The Allocation-ру has sent us

The whole box "Gala-Гала"!

 

Mistrustfully we try{taste} in a train grechku with the hen - it is edible. All car is borrowed{occupied} by tourist group. In the evening they nazhralis, but somehow very much tsivilno. And only one compartment opposite Tani and Vasi buzzed all the night long. And in other compartment these figures have opened a window, and then when it became cold, could not close it{him} in any way - it was not necessary even to cause any good fellow with tools, therefore we could put in any way Vasju to sleep - to it{him} would inflate from the open window, and with Igorevoj the top shelf it{he} could crash down. Fortunately, to 11ч all ustakanilos. In Tula it is a lot of gingerbreads, are especially good with boiled sgushchenkoj.

 

On May, 1st, SB

On May, 1st I have woken up in polsedmogo mornings (on Kiev time). I privstal, villages on a bed (the bottom shelf) also began to look out of the window. In the street there was a fine sunny day! When we went in area of Tula, were shirokolistvennye woods and forest-steppes. And for "Eagle" steppes have begun simply. Then we have risen, had breakfast also I has left on the top shelf to write a diary and to read magazine " »У«ЯФ«¬убЮїЎ« ". And the daddy has left to read magazine « Around of light ». Mum has remained on the bottom shelf to read the newspaper. Then we have stopped in Zaporozhye - 1 LBK (parking 5 minutes) . Further we have gone and have seen (… a water basin), It was big and similar to the sea. At 14:24 we send{have left} on a platform in city "Simferopol". We were met by uncle Cyril, we have sat down{lodge} on marshrutku up to settlement "Fishing". The road was very long and there were many mountains. Then we send{have left} on sea coast, have sat and have gone{send} to mountains. There all over again there were many vineyards. (I shall not draw (will borrow{occupy} a lot of place)). Further we have curtailed{turned} to the right and have got on mountain. The sun began to come. We anywhere did not see parking and a spring. We very long searched, but at last have found parking near to rotten sarajchikom, and the spring flew beside from any farm. We had supper and have laid down to sleep.

Since the dawn on the car carry grivnas, the truth changes nobody them. Again having eaten "Galy-Галы", by 14:30 have arrived to Simferopol. Cyril has literally picked up us for shkirki and has transferred{carried} through underground transition and the area to a fixed-route taxi on Fishing. It has gone there and then and there was an impression, that we did not leave from Carpathians! On smooth asphalt we fly up on Angarsk pass. The sun. From the sea a strong fog. Ears pawns. The road is very beautiful. Frightens only lesistost and extent of mountains. How many to us to go! Fishing. We on seacoast. Transparent greenish water. I and Cyril we are symbolically dipped. Children{guys} from Perm approach{suit}. They have already passed{have already taken place} a route. Have told to us, that they were bitten by 6 ticks for two and have asked, whether we did{made} inoculations. At 17:00 we leave, passing notorious shop « Crimean wines » - the unique open shop in all Fishing. We rise on a stream upwards, slightly being mistaken and meeting the tipsy local residents who try to explain to us road. vasja goes in a hood, despite of a heat - it is rescueed{saved} from ticks - probably, correctly. Vineyards. A stream. A hare. The road sharply leaves to the right on the north. ZHarko. Gradually we rise above in searches of a key. We see some rather turbid lakes. Around dwarfish pines, apple-trees, any prickly bushes, all blossoms. In a falling twilight we rise on a grassy glade near to a stream. The stream beats from a long water pipe. We have supper at light of the Moon. It becomes cool. We have stopped at 19:30, have fallen asleep at 22:00

 

On May, 2nd, VS

We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow}, have washed, and had breakfast (as usually) Galoj-Галой. Also have gone{send} upwards. On road there were many beautiful rocks and « the Crimean pines ». I even have found three greater{big} shishki. Further uncle Cyril and the daddy somewhere have got to{share}. We with mum long went without them, but at last have found them under « the Crimean pine » and have gone{send} further. There were we long, there were many mountains. Then we have gone down in a valley and at last through a beechen wood soon send{have left} to a slope. Under this slope the falls "Dzhur-Джур" rustled. We have agreed to go on-turn. We first have gone{send} with uncle Cyril. First we went on an abrupt slope, but the small fine, stony rivulet further has seemed, then we have seen a falls from above. It was very beautiful! Then we send{have passed} small river on logs and leaves and have gone down to pies. Pies were very tasty! I managed a pie with a peach and tasty whitewashing. Further we have gone down to a falls, the small river here became wider also fine, but is deeper, than from above. Dzhur-Джур is there was very beautiful and big falls. Difference of 20-22 m. Under it{him} was to many{a lot of;much} people. Who looked at it{him} and was surprised, who came into water, and men climbed to the falls. Uncle Cyril too has undressed and has approached{suited} to Джур-Jura and has climbed in a bath under a wall of a falls. Has then left, has washed legs{foots}, has put on (more precisely to tell poluodelsja). Has then taken the device and began to photograph. Then we send{have passed} small river on two palkam and here at the coast has seen in water lost someone alpenshtok. I have passed small river up to the end have accurately taken out it{him} from water, have cleaned and have washed in water, have gone{send} the daddy with mum further. The daddy has very much become angry, when has come to pies, and they have stopped to be on sale. And it{he} has taken with saboj mum and has told, that they will go to do{make} a dinner. I have remained with small river and have waited uncle Cyril. It has then appeared, that the daddy has found a shish kebab, we have eaten and have gone{send} uphill. There beechen woods long last. Then we have met tourists - which have told - that the place for spending the night can be found only in one and a half hour. But we have curtailed{turned} on lateral road and have seen a good place. We had supper and have laid down to sleep.

Spring, water whence whipped, it has appeared rather dirty lake on 50 m above us. The present{true} key was in 50 m. To the right of a track in lowland the house of the forester. The road turns on the left, along an abrupt rocky wall of mountain ¬СЎъСюэ-both. On a cross-country terrain with pine and beechen thrickets we reach source nefan-ТєСЎэ. Send{have left} at 9:00. After numerous halts have passed a ridge and have begun descent{release} to Dzhur-джуру. First the huntsman has approached{has dropped in} on us on "Field" and the forester on "UAZe" has offered wines, then on 6 grn obiletil. It was near a source Ah-бЅС¬Яї®. On already continuous beechen wood it is gone long down to falls Dzhur-джур, till 15:00. It is a lot of tourists in all directions. Laziness was to lower to a falls backpacks, I and Tanja have remained them to guard on a track, and Cyril with Vasej have gone{send} to photograph and have disappeared on half an hour. Bathed, ate pies, and we muchalis for famine and merzli. When the patience has bursted, have gone down downwards. Pies have already ended, and it has prevented to take pleasure Dzhur-джуром. Igor has become angry, began to aspire to make more likely a dinner, and has not given me as it is necessary to admire a falls. Though, certainly, at me such feeling, that after Karelian Both{both}-ths and Mamani me will impress only something like Niagara. The falls, certainly, is beautiful. A narrow canyon, a narrow transparent stream, stone "baths". Have typed{collected} waters. The falls - steeply falling white wall in height of 15 m. In the middle it{she} is cut by a vertical rock on 2 streams. Below the "bath", many bathe. Having afflicted because of pies, we pass{we take place} 50 m and we see shish kebabs - pork and chicken. We were very warmly met by two children{guys}, have fed and have given to drink green tea. Very much were delighted, having learned{having found out}, that we from Moscow, began "to ask" for Russia. Nearby 0.5 ch we talked on political themes, having found out for itself, that half JUBK belongs to Luzhkov, and half to Tchernomyrdin. Having passed{having taken place} 150 m the right coast of a stream, have begun a steep slope from the platform fenced by a grid. Here any firm collects a tribute to look a falls from interested persons, fortunately, the forester in advance has warned us what to approach{suit} it is necessary from other coast so from us have taken nothing. A beechen wood. Freakish outgrowths and bends of trunks. Birds. One of them mischievously says: « At-гу, about-хо-хо, at-гу, about-хо-хо ». 1.5 ch it is broken upwards, it is terrible ustali. On shivering legs{foots} it is climbed up on a track going to the right-upwards from basic (a dark blue marker). At me such sensation that I am more today in general I can not go, mountain climbed up minutes 20. On tiny not horizontal poljanke with the center we put tent. The clear and almost full Moon, shouts of night birds and someone's high howl above.

 

On May, 3rd, PN

We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow}, but had not breakfast (as at us was not waters), had a drink to tea both have eaten a chocolate and have gone{send}. We soon send{have left} on the open district and have seen beautiful rocks. Further we very long went and at last send{have come} to a stream on which the second falls "Dzhurla" murmured. It was a small falls difference of 3-4 m. Among them there were small baths and very beautiful. We have sat down{lodge} on a slope, razozhgli a fire, had breakfast and have gone{send}. Our following point was top of mountain « Demerdzhi JUzh. » . We long rose, but at last send{have come} to greater{big} stones. Above there was a geodetic sign. Then we have gone down in the Valley of Reductions. There it was very beautiful! On road we have come into a stall and have bought{purchased} SNIKERS SUPER and JUICE "ZHivchik". Further we wished to reach a glade "MAN". But on road we have met tourists which have told, that luchshche to stop in a beechen wood (because stood 20 palatok further, then 80 palatok). We and have made, have risen near to ruchyom and razozhgli a fire, had supper and have laid down to sleep.

At night all moved down downwards, Tanja dushila me a hood of a sleeping bag (at us 2 bags - sostegivajushchihsja a cocoon - for three), in kovrik stuck stones, dreamed nightmares: me pursued along the street with an axe, and Cyril methodically shot generals on a tribune of the mausoleum. At 6:00 have woken up under an orange rising sun, at 7:00 send{have left}. In 5 minutes, certainly, there was a smart grassy glade, rocks, a kind on the sea filled in by the sun. The track did not aspire any more upwards, there were many equal sites and small descents{releases}, from time to time - the open kinds, breakages, rocks. On many glades tents cost{stand}, people idle. Have passed a small ridge from which it is visible the Alushta, the Bear-mountain, the sea, the Chatir-Dag with spots{stains} snezhnikov. And again downwards, in a beechen wood. On trunks plays the sun, the Crimean birds sing. It seems, Dzhurla never will come{step}. At last, the atmosphere of luxury, gorge with greater{big} rocky foreheads is a lot of tourists, palatok. On a covered and slippery slope of a canyon it is got out on poljanku at a falls. The falls is hidden{latent} by rocks, but, speak, that it{he} very small. Except for it{him} in a stream it is a lot of 1-1.5 m stupenek - too falls. Ustali. We flop on grassy terrasku on right I protect. On a tiny fire we make a breakfast - a porridge with apples. Send{have left} at 7:00, a breakfast at 10:30, до12:00. We get out on top of a slope and we go on a track upwards on a stream before parking Dzhurla. We rise, small pines and berezki (!) Come to an end, ahead - opened{open} by a plateau, freakish rocks, the sea, tops of the Chatir-Dag, Southern and Northern Demerdzhi. Very beautiful paltse-and gribovidnye formations{educations} at Southern top. On rocks - a geodetic sign. Tourists, dogs, polkryma as on palms, smokes few also it is visible meganom. It is a pity to leave. To the right, around of rocks - it is gone down in the Valley of Reductions. The rocks similar to heads and the persons{faces}. This similarity (running forward) is especially strongly shown in photos where the valley as a whole is represented. The valley settles down highly on an abrupt slope, but still above above it{her} the steep rocky wall rises. On steep, porosshemu by a young beech to a slope almost on a straight line it is gone down downwards. Thousand soles have beaten out in a ground of a hole, and the naked{exposed} roots have formed steps owing to which we slightly pushed by backpacks, smoothly and rather safely dump{reset} height. Soon points below turn in horses, people and machines{cars}. We had not dinner yet. 17:00. Cyril inspires us sold below Tatar plovom. Instead of plova - a source, snickerses, beer and juice "ZHivchik". Having limited to snickerses and "ZHivchikom" (strong allergen!), We go along a rocky wall to glade MAN. The road to accuracy is not clear, but met in a wood idle - without backpacks - girls speak, that we go correctly. We see a huge hare skipping through a glade. After two streams and small rises we rise at 19:00 under century beeches, on coast of one more stream. Up to Mana meters 500. Near to us group of Donetsk, hospitably shown parking. The center, a hot fire, murmur of water. Coast dampish - typing{collecting} tea, has failed a front door krossovkoj in a brown swill. Elbows and a neck have scorched - tomorrow I shall tie on it{her} a black piracy kerchief. As there was no dinner, eat "Galu-галу": 1. An ear Volga from a pike perch. 2. Language boiled with a potato, with addition of a beef. All members and Cyril in particular are constantly dared{laugh constantly} above "Galoj-галой": type, it{she} nothing weighs, is acquired on 100 %, saves a toilet paper and alive weight of tourists, adds food stimulus to passage of stages of a route, etc. And the rhyme about "Galu-галу" became already a rhyme-parasite; it is repeatedly read in the morning, in the afternoon, in the evening and especially during movement.

 

On May, 4th, VT

We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow}, had breakfast and have gone{send} further. We again very long went on a wood, but then send{have come} on Angarsk pass. There there was a tablet: « Angarsk pass of 752 meters ». Also have gone{send} further. Then passed метео-station and began to rise on mountain. We at last have climbed on mountain « the Hangar a breaker » (1452). Further we have risen on the next mountain. And we three together (the daddy, uncle Cyril and). We went long and at last have climbed on top of mountain « Eklizi the Breaker ». When went down, everyone has moved down on sidushke on snezhniku. Have then returned to mum on that top and began to go down on plateau "chotyr-даг". When we have gone down, we have not found some water both long went and at last have come across road just to a fork with the index: « imene-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ the CAVE 7-еми miracles of the nature ». The daddy and uncle Cyril somewhere have got to{share}. We with mum have gone{send} under indexes and send{have left} to cafe where have found the daddy and uncle Cyril. We have eaten pizzas, had a drink to tea and have gone{send} to a cave. First we have got acquainted with the guide. Have then looked the plan of excursion. Also have gone{send}. The first point was a well. Us have led to a huge hole upwards and have told that in this well different animals fell many. And a number{line} in a cave the skeleton mamontyonka laid. Age of 14-15 years. Then we have passed{have taken place} in a museum and there to us have shown different remains of these animals. Still to us have told about a name of this cave - that as the girl by name Imene has fallen in a well. Further we have seen underground lake. To us have told, that if water costs{stands} long without movement - that turns out a film from a carbonate of calcium. The guide has told, that on lake has floated a bat and has flied up. Further we have gone{send} to the Hall of Idols. The first stalagmite was an idol the Policeman, and then the others. Further to us have shown lesenku which conducts in not equipped halls - "Treasury" and "Kecskemet" where there live bats. Further we have looked a huge stalagmite « the Cap of the Monomove ». Also have gone{send} back. At 21:00 I have approached{suited} to a well and have seen, how from a cave bats take off. Further we have put tent and have laid down to sleep. 


At 9:00 send{have left}. At 10:20 there were on pass Angarsk, near a post of GAI, near to the tablet « 752 m ». The GAI officer suggested to be photographed with us, but Tanja has broken off it{him}. On t « Angarsk pass » - a source on which coast tourists had a shave. Earlier to me in a mouth the shaving cream often got and anything bad did not occur{happen}. Therefore I decide to type{collect} waters - all the same to boil! 10:45. Uphill there are roads. The rusted indexes say: « School descent{release} "," Difficult descent{release} ». Having exchanged glances with Cyril, we go in a direction of the last. The road gradually is lifted up upwards, and more flat way to the left leaves. Three bicyclists push there the bajki, we continue to clamber on having a steepness of an added fire ladder to a slope. We overtake the grandfather with two girls without backpacks. The footpath soars up vertically upwards. Choking, we clamber, clinging to beechen trees, planting the feet in roots and fine kameshki. We have often a rest and eventually we redistribute things. It occurs{happens} after I to the hugest work having passed{having taken place} the next some{a little bit} meters, I have a rest minutes 10, not having reached up to children{guys}. Igor goes down to me, takes away a backpack, but for some reason without a backpack to go awfully hard. We struggle with own backpacks for each meter of height. By effort of will we are thrown out of a zone of a wood on a plateau, on which else meters on 50 we rise and - we fall. 12:45. Rose from 10.45, that is for 2 ch approximately on 600 m - it is quite good. Long we lay, stupidly{bluntly} beholding vicinities and, listening to vibrations in waists, greedy we drink the water typed{collected} on a camp site. Height dizzy. We - at a level Southern Demerdzhi. Machines{cars} on highway are almost indiscernible and aspire to zero. Still effort and we - on mountain the Hangar-breaker. 14:20. In round the iron pipe, as a cross, and perhaps a sword is thrust. Stages from « the Lord of rings », onty, orks and small obstinate hobbits are recollected. As on a palm - the Alushta, Perevalnoe, Simferopol, dams, water basins, the sea, green and black beeches. But we wish to visit on the highest point of this district - mountain the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker. Tanja guards backpacks. Reducing a way, I conduct straight and soon I understand how hard to move without a track, though and on absolutely low grass. The sun shines and to protect the scorched neck, I do{make} of a camouflage T-short a turban, for a while turning from the hobbit in vahhabita. It is interesting, as by all this from - in a mirror it was not looked from a train! At top the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker - a little bajkov and that grandfather. A column from a stone. In 100 m - the tablet with names of participants of group of the People's Commissariat of Internal Affairs struggled with fascists. Separately - a small stone obelisk with an icon. In the party{side} one more obelisk with an eagle. Vicinities flicker below, in сине-greenish a smoke, and only a ridge with the highest top of Crimea - the Novel-кош is proud towers opposite to us a dark bulk with small spots{stains} snezhnikov on ledges. Our plateau nenamnogo below, a difference the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker about the Novel-кошем makes only 40 m. And at us too is snezhniki. - under the top - we go for a drive On one of them on sidushkah and certainly we play snowballs. Back - only on a track! Twice more quickly - all for 30 minutes - we reach top with Tanej. I at this time, having had a rest (only after that I could eat, and that was not any desire), I ate a chocolate, drank water and read magazine « Around of light » (weight 550г.), Which we, having bought{purchased} to esteem in a train, foolishly and from greed dragged with myself all hike. Periodically there was that zharko and then I blazhenno sunbathed it is cold - the unpleasant wind rose, and at this particular time there were clouds. There were different people - somehow all almost simultaneously. In the beginning any lonely woman of years 50 who has asked vodichki, having told, that it{she} has forgotten the, then was glad{pleased} to a surrounding landscape and has asked it{her} to photograph, having corrected for the clothes so that the breast was partially visible. There was a whole group in shorts, has quickly had a drink waters and has escaped downwards, some more person on 2-3. Then all have again disappeared and the silence was established. Fortunately, there were muzhiks. 16:20. Abrupt exhausting descent{release} from top on a plateau reduces a knee. The backpack presses, as the parasite. We go to the Marble cave. On a plateau a rare wood, a lot of karstic voronok, the stones reminding pozvonki dragons, steljushchijsja by the ground a juniper, curves undersized jablonki. About a Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker more direct road. We cross a plateau obliquely, on noted by rounds and a dark blue marker to a track. In zarosshej a bush and reminding a bog voronke the group spends the night. They heat water from a snow and even suggest to share snezhnikom. Having rejected a lodging for the night and rest, we cross a karstic plateau and we leave to a cave of the Emin-Bair-Hosar. 19:00. Around the whole park, shops, a garden of stones, very cosy, works as cafe. We overeat sausages and vkusnejshej a pizza. Terribly it would be desirable to drink. 4 l mineral water and on 2 cups of tea. Water, as well as meal, is acquired on 100 %. An evening, but us invite in a cave. The vertical mine{shaft} - a natural input{entrance} - served as a trap for wild animals, in it{this} uniqueness of a cave. Inside the rare skeleton of the mammoth, a bone of a bison and saber-toothed tigers. On narrow iron ladders we went down on depth of 65 m and with the opened mouthes looked at stalactites, stalagmites and stalagnaty, listened to the interesting story, and vasja muchil and muchil guide Alexey cross questions on bats. Us have lead on all halls, have shown pearl Emine - the Cap of the Monomove and fine underground lake. Anybody did not hurry us, and walk has borrowed{occupied} about one and a half hours. On a surface we were met with night, and in night is far under us fantastically settlements, roads, dams and the parking of rare travellers forgotten in woods flickered fires. Cave explorers have offered us a glade near to a cave and from a toilet simultaneously. No! We Pass{we Take place} 500 m and we rise in karstic voronke, near to one more tent. Our way is shined{covered} brightly with the Moon. A strong wind, dreadful night. The awning from Cyril is on a regular basis unbuttoned and starts to clap. The wind blows "legs{foots}" of a cocoon, melancholy and chilly! Furtively I assort the center and I spread on an awning the huge smoked stones.

 

In a shady beechen wood

I still bear{carry} the backpack.

Has hardly ascended to pass,

Immediately the backpack from me has fallen.

 

 

On May, 5th, SR

We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow} and have gone{send} to the Marble cave. Send{have come}. A number{line} of cafe. We send{have come} and have bought{purchased}: to Me - BOUNTY 1 pieces, KRYM TEA - 5 pieces, a pizza - 1 pieces; to the Daddy - a pizza-1, tea - 1; Mums. - a pizza-1, tea - 1; D.K. - a pizza-1, tea - 1; have eaten and have gone{send} to look « the Marble cave ». We have gone{send} to buy tickets and mum to me has bought{purchased} calendar cards (a set 4 kl. - 1-st grivna) with photos of cave imene-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ. And we have gone{send} to the first hall (it{he} was bezimjannyj). There to us have told, that there stalactites (icicles) grow 1 sm for 2 thousand years, stalagmites (stone columns) on faster (1 sm, 1000). When stalactites and stalagmites grow together (for 15-25-50 thousand years), columns - stalagnaty are formed. Then they start to grow at width. This beauty exists owing to kaltsitu, to a carbonate of calcium, limestone and water. Further we have gone{send} to « Gallery of Fairy tales ». First we have seen some stalagmites. There were very beautiful: - The grandfather the Frost, Koshchej Immortal, the hedgehog with an apple and a pear and a figure of the Gold Small fish. Then we have looked different very beautiful outgrowths "Cactuses". And the guide has told: «-here cautiously be not killed about this « the Chicken rjabu » ». Further we have passed{have taken place} in a hall under the name "Landslide". Once very much for a long time in Crimea there was a huge earthquake and greater{big} stones and stalagnaty have fallen very much. In the size this hall 250х220 meters. Further we have gone{send} to other halls (2 pieces) Anonymous. To us have told that neoborudovan « the Clay hall » and five more halls. Have gone{send} in Tigrovyj a course Further (there it was interesting and in the end a stalagmite « Tyoshchin a canine ». To All of us have allowed to touch it{him}. Further we send{have left}, had a drink to tea with a cake and have gone{send} to settlement "Perevalnoe". Have sat down{lodge} on the bus, have reached to "Yalta". Have sat down{lodge} on marshrutku and have reached up to podnozhja mountains "Ah-»СФУї". Have then risen on kanatnoj to road and have gone{send} on top "Ah-»СФУї". Further we have approached{have dropped in} by the machine{car} up to a small house of the forester and have laid down to sleep. We have eaten in cafe " ЯбУЩ-ЯТ ".

With a cold and not slept, by the Emin-Bair-Hosar we go on the wood crossed track to a cave Marble. To go laziness. Yesterday we obedouzhinali in Hosare, and today in cosier cafe on Marble. The pizza, sausages with a potato, is a lot of-many tea. Tasty mulled wine with grasses which recipe the mistress keeps a secret. Already in a cave to us have told about fatal influence of alcohol on cave explorers: it appears, the bottle of beer drunk under the ground can put out of action completely even the experienced researcher of bowels so drink usually then. We are again dipped into dampness and a cool of caves. Here absolutely transparent and pure{clean} air. Set of freakish forms. Association - with figures of the Indian gods, tamers of cobras in chalmah and still with netske. The guide shows new and new forms: the thin high stalagmite - « Ostankinskaja a tower », costing{standing} on thick natekah and a number{line} stalagmitikov is less than Ukrainian bacon - turn from belorussov. We kiss in a hall with covered serdechkami the arch, we consider{examine} the Wall of Idiots, we lift enormous penoplastovyj a stone, we extinguish for a minute light and we look, how from flashlight the translucent stalagmite phosphoresces. vasja again asks time 20 about bats. After a cave we can not leave{abandon} cafe in any way. The reason: cakes with tea. On a good track we begin descent{release} to Perevalnomu. When the track disappears, we climb on kaltsitnomu to a channel of the dried up falls and beechen thrickets downwards-downwards-downwards. Again a track, lambs, karer with BELAZami, a post 5 - a dangerous zone, an impassable bush, at the left and on the right - mountains. We climb on the first mountain on very abrupt slope. It is height Hosara. 2 masts costing{standing} near to a cave are well visible on the next slope. I with Vasej climb on mountain in a forehead, and Tanja after Cyril long goes traversom. On a crest the strongest wind, capable to reject from a rate of the tourist going with a backpack a lump about 100 kg. Strong having joined hands, we clamber on a narrow stony crest, we type{collect} still meters of 100 heights and it is appeared on a plateau with curves kustikami and the "Crimean" peonies. Simultaneously on a plateau there is Cyril. I find Tanju near to top, I help{assist} to rise. Having imposed with backpacks, we are covered from a wind and it is had a rest.

From mountain I yet did not see such idiotic "descent{release}". Instead of going as all people, we have decided to experience new ways and that it was necessary to go down downwards to rise on very tall mountain. By analogy with Ah-»СФУї, Ah-бЅС¬Яї®, etc. I have named this mountain Ah-яй-яй-¬їУїЅЅ (in brief Ah-¬їУїЅЅ) since because of it{him} we there have got. On last meters of rise I was already absolutely without forces, considering the strongest wind and constantly showered stones. If has not dragged my backpack, I probably and have remained on a slope.

Gorge on which have not gone{do not send} because of a bush, zaroslo all meters on 300. There is shirochennaja a first coat with the tunnel cut through in rocks Further. But not back to go! On a plateau we find track Ishachju and it is easy enough gone down after it{her} downwards to a trolleybus stop of village Perevalnogo. By the good bus at 16:00 it is leaved for Yalta (nearby 1). Therefrom 15 minutes marshrutkoj up to kanatnoj roads. (I have stated Cyril, that after « surprising descent{release} » from a plateau I already do not have any forces to rise uphill and it{him} the light idea has visited{attended} to take advantage kanatnoj road.)

Already grows dark, we have got hungry and ustali, impressions for today quite enough. It would be desirable zalech to sleep, and mountain to examine tomorrow. Have bought{purchased} on 2 pies and 2 bottles of mineral water "Morshinskoj". We drink, we drink, we drink. At station "kanatki" - a market on which dark persons ambiguously offer all - from cockleshells up to a cheap taxi on Ah-»СФУї, and it is persevering enough. Tent here to put it would not be desirable, and a room to remove{take off} it is impossible. Time having refused services drove twenty, we leave upwards on kanatnoj to road directly before its{her} closing. Under us float houses, glades, highway, clumsy numbers{lines;beside} of vineyards. The glazed cabins, on 4 sedentary and 36 standing places, necessarily conductor with a portable radio set. At a wind strong lateral rolling. Cabins fly on trossam with the big speed and sharply brake before an obstacle. « Tickets to keep up to average station! » We change in other cabin, bright yellow color, and - dizzy rise along a steep rocky wall, under top Ah-»СФУї. Last meters we move vertically upwards. It seems, just about vrezhemsja in a rock. On a plateau - not a snow and a burnt grass as we thought earlier, and something absolutely another. The first, that the happy passenger kanatki, got out on a high-mountainous plateau sees, is enclosed by a dirty board fence « the Museum of medieval instruments of tortures ». At an input{entrance} the Tatar dressed up by the executioner sits, is for certain masterful owning these instruments. And circle too one tatary. Still here the whole small town of cafe and souvenir stalls, is a lot of horses, than machines{cars} and camels - is shorter, conditions quite criminal. Behind a building kanatki two ancient German cars together with the form and automatic devices (the expanded exposition of a museum what for cost{stand}?) . Above station the Trident with top towers. Ignoring a paid input{entrance}, we rise to a geodetic sign. On 300 m below the layer of a fog lays. Ahead - the sea, below - a tiny wood and snujushchie yellow kabinki kanatnoj roads. From top it is visible a part of a plateau. It hilly, with good asphalt roads, a meteorological station, spherical aerials and the shelter hidden behind horizon with meal and a lodging for the night. Having gone down from top, we find out near to Cyril « Vitalik with Falcon » which for 40 grn suggests to bring us « on 5-th km, in a small house to the forest warden, 25 km on twisting mountain road ». Having presented rublenuju prokonopachennuju a moss izbushku in a taiga solitude, we agree. And here us "six" from a plateau downwards, valiantly being entered in an abrupt streamer of mountain road already bears{carries}, snatching out headlights restrictive columns and turning aside from bumpers of counter machines{cars}. On « 5-th km » have arrived in darkness. The forester is not present, the house is locked{closed}. But behind it{him} two tents, on 10 grn/ЮФ cost{stand} already. Hardly we stick pegs in a dense grassy lawn. We very much ustali, have gone through so much impressions that we are afraid to forget or mix. Since morning nothing of a fur-tree, not including pies. We become hollow in years{summer} cafe under mysterious name sary-ЯТ. East person in east dressing gown feeds us plovom and shurpoj, salad and tea. And in meter from a table the fast mountain river with a twisting stony channel rustles. After 3-4 cups it would be desirable to drink even more. All absorbed moisture is acquired. Desperately shining lanterns, we come back to tent (in 50 m from cafe) and we go to bed. It is few wind, warmly, 23:30.

 

On May, 6th, CHT

At night there was a rain, all tent was wet. We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow} and have gone{send} to have breakfast. There has then arrived the forester. We have agreed to transfer{carry} our things to the house - that tent has dried up - and have gone{send} to the Grand Canyon. The first point was - « Blue lake ». This lake was really blue. Water was very pure{clean}, transparent and blue, Depth - meter 1.5 - 2. Then we have reached karstic source Panija. It{he} followed from a cave in which is not present to an input{entrance} from mountain "Ah-»СФУї". Then have reached the Bath of the Youth. Tz waters: in the winter from-5єС up to +2єС, in the summer from +10 gr. On With - up to +15 gr. On S.Papa it was expiated also we have gone{send} back. Send{have come}, have changed clothes, had dinner and have gone{send} on « the Silver falls ». We went on dirty road, was very much skolzko and is wet. But at last send{have come}. There was small peshcherka. I prolez the first. The stream there flew, I have risen upward and it has appeared on a stone at a wall of a falls. Further we have gone{send} back and began to write diaries and to read books, had then supper and have laid down to sleep.

All the night long it is raining, strong. The moisture for some reason appears between a sleeping bag and kovrikom. sprjatannye in tent backpacks as they concern{touch} an awning Still{even} dampen. Having thrown out things under a beak, we sleep till 8:00. Syro, cool. There is a forester with workers who start to concrete a floor in a small house. Under a torrential rain quickly we go for a breakfast. In "Volga" costing{standing} opposite to a forest area I have tasted house wines - red dry "Lydia" and "Kaberne". The second has appeared improbably tasty, and I have taken 1 l for 20 grn. After one drink of wine it becomes terribly cheerful, the rain, wet things and the gloomy grey sky is forgotten. Also it is simply tasty. We awake the personnel of cafe, we order a teapot to tea and a teapot to boiled water. Having had breakfast favourite "Galoj-галой", we come back to the forester. After have sat on chairs under a normal roof where there is no rain and nothing gets damp, we decide to move in the house. Tanja with Cyril agree about a room. If the tent manages 10 grn/ЯТФ., That a room only 4. However, there except for a floor anything is not present. Even doors. Exception makes furious scarecrow of a wild boar only costing{standing} in a corner. Having collected in a heap all things, we are transferred{carried} to a small house, having left "to dry" tent. Under a fine drizzle it is{are} sent to the Grand Canyon which begins directly behind a small house of the forester. On stony footpaths and porosshim beeches to slopes we go along the mountain river with a freakish stony channel, from time to time clambering on stones, rising on 5-10 m above water. The rain gradually comes to an end, through clouds and beeches looks through the wet Sun. In a canyon it is a lot of tourists, with backpacks and without. Overcoming charms "Kaberne", I go upwards. However, after the first rise (the Post oak in which put a note; the oak has now burned down, but a note all equally put) abrupt differences are not present. Under us - Blue lake - a greater{big} turquoise bath with kameshkami at the bottom. Hardly above - smoothly bent stone monolith of a channel of a stream of color ohry. To the left upwards from lake the track leaves. It{she} rises on a level of steep rocks and comes to an end parking with a survey platform. A track abrupt, heavy, extent 1 ch 20 minutes, we there have not gone{do not send}. On the left coast of a stream - unique karstic source Panija with the charge of water 370 l/ЯС¬. Flows from thickness Ah-»СФУї. The track along a stream comes to an end the Bathing Youth, water in which winter and does not rise above 9 degrees in the summer. In general, strangely enough, water in a stream not cold. We repeatedly washed and in the stream, and in Panii. A bath of the Youth - deep stone pool under small slivom, with blue-green, very transparent water. The bottom sees, but is not felt. Also it would be desirable to jump out there and then. But then long warmly! Vobshchem, after bathing there was an impression, that day has passed{has taken place} knowingly. All pleasure was spoiled by two 15-years girls, with wild squeal jumped in a bath from a stone. And the muzhik from a three-meter rock has then jumped - has powerfully jumped, we even were surprised, that it{he} has got precisely in water. Nearby under a umbrella{parasol} two businessmen with four wine kegs and a heap of glasses sit. Own recipes of a youth. On a return way Cyril was lost, and in half an hour there was on a rock which has there and then received the name « Oh-it{-her}, Cyril ». For a long time the sun already shines, and the stony track in a beechen wood is very beautiful. On road there saw the bug - black, with blue-green specks, about 5 sm in length. Cyril has told, that it is relic Crimean zhuzhelitsa, shoots from priests an acid. Fairly to tell, the Big cordon has not absolutely justified expectations. It would be desirable the high rocks rising directly from water, but rocks were far, on coast it is a lot of trees so impressions a canyon somehow were not. A cordon. Tent dry. The sun. And here our room is opened{open} wide open, bicycles there cost{stand} and builders have dinner. We transfer{carry} things to tent, we get to "Gaul-галу", tea and is habitually ordered in cafe a teapot not assessed by grivnas to boiled water. After a dinner it is risen upwards on a stream to the Silver falls - in one more sight of the Fifth kilometer. The falls has height of 7-8 m. Under it{him} - a grotto, inside - a cave with a stream, having passed{having taken place} on which it is possible to appear on a ledge, in the middle of height of a falls. This falls has seemed to me more beautifully and more interestingly Джур-Jura though it{he} is much less, but there very pretty peshcherki and it{he} looks{appears} very picturesquely. Still we with Vasej have risen above a falls, have seen merge of two streams and, sliding on the stones covered by ooze, send{have passed} one of them. The Same road we should go tomorrow with backpacks aside the Tea Small house. What is covered behind this name? Hills of Manchuria, a hair drier-шуй and the Chinese small lamps Are recollected Dersu Uzala. Before a supper all in the same cafe to us is changed with roubles for grivnas (100 rbl. = 17 grn.) . Now at us 340 griven, on pleasures it is ordered plov, salads and tea and it is finished drinking house wine. In the next cafe (a small house on a hill) saw new Russian tourists. We come to learn{find out} about an exchange, and in a small house - a topsy-turvy, the hysterical songs, filled up by shish kebabs and the table filled by cognacs and - the tourists sipping thick Havana cigars. And tents at them cost{stand} above on a stream. 22:30. A release. Long we write a diary. Very warm night.

 

On May, 7th, PT

We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow}, have gathered and have gone{send}. We have decided to cut off and vljapalis in such chuchu, moreover the rain has then gone. Then we have passed{have taken place} « the Silver falls », had breakfast and have gone{send} on a cordon « the Tea small house ». We went very long. After a rain it was very dirty and it is wet. Here at last also send{have come}. Slazili in a guerrilla cave and at me from weather changing the head has ached. We have returned back on a cordon « the Tea small house » and have stayed the night there. And send{have left} on a helicopter platform in the evening and stars began to look.

What happiness, that we do not sleep in a small house of the forester - the stone white barrack reminding turkish prison. Well also that, that some times on an awning the strong short rain knocks! We now clever, have hidden things and into tent does not get well drops of water. The night bird in the evening howled, since a dawn chirp birds morning. It would be desirable to rise, somewhat quicker to put on a backpack and cheerfully to go to the Tea Small house a fresh beechen wood. The food was not completely dissolved in an organism; yesterday - for the first time for a hike - it{she} has found to herself a way out outside, but in it{this} are for certain guilty Tatar plov and numerous salads, instead of old kind "Gala-гала". At 9:00 we leave. Having sated{saturated} evening plovom, we decide to not have breakfast since morning. The sun shines. The forester takes from us only 10 grn. For the saved grivnas we buy tasty red wine - 0.5 l "Muscat" and 0.5 l "Bouquet" ("Isabella" + "Muscat", under Ekaterina's recipe II). Certainly, we have preliminary tasted all! While I did{made} farewell photos, Cyril has changed a route: we go to a falls long by, through pass to a steep wall - ridge sjujurju-кая. 20 minutes we stamp on highway before parking « the Lime glade » (on a card{map} parking "Kokozka" which we and have not found out is designated). We rise upwards on a track known only to Cyril and when it{she} comes to an end - straight uphill, through a rare beechen wood. All above and above, with great work and several greater{big} halts we leave to border of a wood and we see above it{her} absolutely steep 100-meter rocky wall. Such wind that tops of beeches bend, myorznem blows. There is along a wall in parallel a highway and again aside the Fifth kilometer. In 10 minutes we see the end of a ridge, perevalchik between a ridge and high rocky Falcon mountain. Rise is abrupt, pours a strong rain. Under beeches it{he} is even stronger, their trunks work as the drainpipes turned out on a wrong side put between heaven and earth. From pass settlements are visible settlement Falcon and the following on highway. The rain has ceased. Along high rocks rises dense pairs, circle - covered by a wood kruchi, all identical. On opposite mountain, very highly, I see excellent{different} road, tourists and - below - steep rocks. As it is close and as it is far! Some time we go on the slope without loss of height, but the dense wet bush soon does{makes} it impossible. Tracks are not present. We go down downwards, the slope becomes more abruptly, bushes more densely, it is a lot of stones of different size, the part of branches is muricated. It becomes deep below we shall distinguish noise of a falls. When the backpack strong clings to branches, mentally materim slopes, stones, bushes, Cyril. Cyril falls on any stone, but all manages safely, we go further. Having spent a chasm of time and energy, have gone down, at last, to a falls Silver, to where were yesterday. Pours a rain. The adventure has borrowed{occupied} 3 hours. In general it was Aj-jaj-jaj Cyril's variant then there was a firm decision to go only on the tracks noted on a card{map} and on which there is an articulate description. On a falls squeals and the thick hairy muzhik with a heap of children is photographed. We rise above on a stream, to the left of a falls. At Vasi the head hurts, it would be desirable to eat. For some reason meal it is not necessary to all rests. We stop in a picturesque place at a stream, before artificial round pool with a falls in diameter about 20 m. This lake Jusupovskoe. Water is pulled out through meter break in a stone wall and falls from height of 5 m. the lake Eats a stream which follows nearby from a slope of mountain - a karst. 13:00. By means of dry spirit quickly we kindle{heat} a fire and as it is had quickly dinner. Sincere portions of meal plus additional meat, garlic, vkusnejshy a muscat and black crackers. A bottom of a stream - the round stone bowls located at different height. Water flows from one in another, a full hair drier-шуй. Along a stream clay, broken by legs{foots} of tourists very abrupt and slippery track to rise on which it is possible only by means of hands. To our surprise, after it{her} slowly, but truly passes ГАЗ-66. After polutorachasovogo rise we leave on a glade with grazed pigs. A tea small house. During travel to Crimea here stopped and Ekaterina II drank tea. Still here had a rest Grechko, and still here there lives the forester. Around - territory of reserve, and the forester fines on 50 grn for fires, and near to a helicopter platform to stop and fires to burn down it is possible, and all is free-of-charge. The hairy muzhik from a falls any miracle appears in a small house of the forester, borrows{occupies} there a room, is dry, oars and is happy. In a wood a little palatok. Near to a helicopter platform an obelisk to guerrillas and a cave depth of meters 20 and length 70. There a small bath with water and tiny stalactites on a ceiling. Water is used by tourists for cooking. It{she} rigid and muddy enough. Having examined a cave, we go a wood on the road strewed by gravel. The rain is not present, but is very cloudy. On a ridge the cold fog creeps. And I, and Cyril, dressed in shorts, fine we freeze. A strong wind, despite of a beechen wood. Have slipped turn. On a card{map} and a compass it turns out, that we go to the opposite party{side}, on mystical Fifth kilometer. 18:00. At Vasi the head strongly hurts. We come back in the Tea small house, the blessing up to it{him} 15 minutes. Together with Tanej we conduct suddenly ill Vasju under hands. It{him} toshnit. Coldly. Wet legs{foots} and all crude. We are stuck between other tents, we plant a fire. Having changed clothes in dry, gradually we accept human shape. Boots crude, dirty. Backpacks too all crude and in clay. At a fire even zharko. We drink "Bouquet", we eat the first and the second with addition of meat. vasja, changed clothes{disguised} and had a sleep in a sleeping bag, revives and plays with lanterns. However, for a supper drank only tea with crackers. Even Cyril was sated{saturated} "Galoj-галой", all the evening long smiles and unjustly laughs loudly{roars}. Night, thousand bright stars falls. I see. pokoptiv on a fire socks and having admired constellations from a helicopter platform, we put to bed. 23:00. In a bog at the forester frogs madly croak.

 

On May, 8th

We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow}, had breakfast and villages "Collective-farm" have gone{send} past. Also send{have come} to « Skelskoj to a cave ». Us reduced on excursion. It was very beautiful. The first hall referred to "Altarnyj" - was similar to an altar. The second "Chimney" - a ledge (very beautiful), similar to a fireplace with red illumination. The third hall « Fairy tales and Reductions ». There were: a dolphin, a mask from to/х horrors "Shout", a bear and still reductions. And a greater{big} hole to 5-яти to underground lakes. If to shout, it is considered, that the sound reaches underground lakes. Further we have gone{send} in Karadagsky a wood. Then we have risen on a lodging for the night. Have put tent and razozhgli a fire, had supper and have laid down to sleep. Continuation follows in a diary №2.

I sit on the cape which is bent around by a mountain stream, I listen to noise of water and I feel as each millimeter of a leather{skin} hot beams of the spring sun. From a juniper decaying in a fire exciting aroma proceeds, above the stony center hardly appreciable languages of a flame from time to time fly up. We had just dinner in the double portion of soups. Having woken up today in the morning under the blue sky in a tea small house, had quickly breakfast and have made transition before parking Ah-сјїФУї® with a forest area and a meteorological station. Tracks have dried up. In a wood there is a maple, a thuja and a juniper. After have ah-сјїФУїn risen on sedlovinku and went to photograph rocky canyon uzun-сЄб. At this time we had a rest, and I have found the tick creeping on me. Then all time smoothly went down on a footpath going raspadkom to stony - colors ohry - to a stream with rocky coast. At my approach{approximation} ten frogs has jumped in transparent water and has buried in last year's oak leaves laying at the bottom. On rocks it is a lot of shustryh green lizards. We had dinner and were expiated in deep stone baths. Beside village Collective-farm through which our way lays. Cyril today has ceased to laugh in the morning: it{he} thought, that today the seventh, and there was the eighth. Therefore our purpose-minimum - parking Karadagsky a wood. And kilometers here, it is necessary to tell, especial, more, than usually. To not confuse, we have given them the special name - grivnometry. Or kilogrivny - as it is pleasant to whom. Send{have left} at 9:20 in the morning, from 13:30 till there was a dinner. On Cyril and Tana have found on 1 tiny tick, have removed and have processed peroxide of hydrogen. The stream has deduced{removed} to the huge glade from different directions surrounded by mountains. On slopes bright green spots{stains} of a beech and dark green thujas. Trunks of thujas dry and cracked, as though dead. On branches dark blue - as at a juniper - berries. On a glade the rare small houses surrounded by high stone walls. Here there is base "Mountain", an elite cottage settlement, a meadow with loshadmi, cows, geese and pheasants. From settlement the picturesque asphalted streamer goes down. The road from breakage is separated with an accurate wall from a natural stone. The fast stream below rustles. An opposite slope of a valley - high steep rocks to which the thuja is moulded. Through 1-2 km after Collective-farm to the left from highway the soil road with the index "CAVE" departs. In 100 m poljanka, 408-th "Muscovite" (one of the most widespread cars of Mountain Crimea), a wattle fence with iron vagonchikom, a shaky table with souvenirs. Cave explorers Here live. For 44 grn they promise to show us Skelskuju a cave. 16:30. The cave is equipped 2 years ago, an input{entrance} at bottom of mountain. The ladder from a manhole conducts not downwards, and upwards. Rising from a hall in a hall, we see many formations{educations} in the form of bodies and edges, hollow inside. To us play on them, as on there-тамС, very beautifully and loudly. In the first - chimney - a hall by tradition there is a Keeper of the Cave. In Skelskoj it is the Gnome, it is necessary to greet and be friends of it{him}. For the Owner - huge, illuminated red a fireplace surrounded by vertical formations{educations} of the different sizes and forms. The cave is opened{open} 100 years by back local teacher. In 192 … to year from earthquake from the arch the huge clay block has fallen, but nothing has destroyed, and has hung on several points between halls. Above a block - a ladder. The height of all cave of 40 m. Is not investigated{researched} part and not equipped halls. In a hall of Reductions four wells, leaders to two lakes, one - forty-meter depth. In the snow spring water rises up to a hall of Reductions. In Skelskoj to a cave smooth and original natechnye forms of white-pink shades. It{she} has fascinated us, is completely not similar on previous. Cyril photographes much. 17:00. It is necessary to go up to mythical Karadagskogo woods, certainly, upwards, to mountains. Forces are not present absolutely, but to go it is necessary, differently tomorrow we shall not get in Foros and Cyril will not leave home. From a cave it is risen upwards all over again on a track, then - on ancient (I-III centuries) To the Roman road. It{she} goes the bottom raspadka Karadagsky a wood, is laid out by large blocks and reminds a ladder. Walls - steep rocks up to 3 m in height. The beginning of road marks the gone to pieces ancient bridge. In foliage of young beeches plays the soft evening sun. We go, methodically rearranging hoofs - upwards, upwards, upwards. Hour, an one and a half, two … we See a reference point: a stone-step with a red inscription « With a lung the ferry! » . We eat on 2.5 kvadratika chocolate favourite still{even} from Carpathians "Svetoch" and, muchimye thirst, we continue rise. I and Cyril we bear{carry} on 1.5 l waters from Skelskoj caves, just in case. But crude it{she} is better for not drinking. The sun becomes gold. The Roman road comes to an end a stone with an inscription "DUB" near which, certainly, there is no oak. The track abruptly leaves upwards and flies up on porosshee a wood of a plateau. After a while the wood is replaced by the apple-trees seldom costing{standing} on a juicy meadow. On branches white flowers and fluffy young leaves. Crude cool air reminds air in caves Hosar and Marble. Absolute sterility and a transparency of this air, a smell of apple-trees and a moisture, the blue sky with lungs mazkami clouds, green tops of the next mountains … I Go and I understand, that I am absolutely happy! The garden is replaced by a warm beechen wood. Still small rise and we see two strongly boggy lakes. Beside a well of five-meter depth, a little kostrishch and a monument. Cool. We throw off wet a vest and sweaty socks, we throw out of backpacks of a thing. From a thicket there are two muzhiks, with zerkalkoj Canon and a videocamera. Cave explorers. Swarm up local caves and are called back on mobile. I pull out from Tani the tick. It{she} wishes to carry it{him} with herself in a chocolate foil. The cave explorer amuses us with history about medical protivokleshchevoj the help in Yalta. vasja has kindled a fire, we are heated. Cave explorers cost{stand} somewhere nearby and soon leave. Cyril removes the tick running on a leg{foot}. A well in 20 m from us, but water deeply. It is good, that beside the kapron cord adhered to a stick lays. Cannes it was necessary to fix and heat the same stick to scoop some water. The wind is not present. A cosy fire. We savour "Bouquet" and we boil 2 kana waters - it would be desirable to drink and still it is necessary to fill in in bottles, for tomorrow. Tanja has given out till 2 portions of mashed potatoes with pechenkoj. Still we have garlic and black crackers, is very tasty. A stone's throw away from parking istuplenno hordes of frogs croak. For mountains the crimson sun falls. Hardly later in the black sky thousand stars light up. Night birds shout. I write a diary, sitting with PETZLом on wide polovinke logs, before dancing languages of a flame. Tanja calls in tent: Cyril has found in a groin of the tick, long it{him} is pulled out. Take with itself a tweezers is will save many pleasant minutes! Carefully we examine each other and clothes. Cyril finds the tick running on tent. All of them very small - up to 2 mm, at once to notice hard. vasja Harry Potere all the evening long talks to Cyril about « Star wars », and Skubi Du. Night will be cool, but that such a cold when you lay in sleeping bag PLACID (BASK)!

 

On May, 9th

Diary №2. We have woken up, have put on{have woken up, endow}, have washed, have eaten and have gone{send}. There were we very long. Through a spur of mountain Bjuzjuki and small river Bjuzjuki. Through passes and valleys and at last send{have come} to « Bajdarskim to a gate ». By orthodox church have gone down in city "Foros". Have bought{purchased}: BOUNTY, TWIX, JUICE « the Favourite garden », BIO-KEFIR, ICE-CREAM - 2 pieces, MINIKRUASAN the APRICOT - 4 pieces Also have gone{send} on the sea. Have eaten, had a rest also uncle Cyril has run on marshrutku (it{he} should go for work). Then mum has remained on coast, and we with the daddy have gone{send} to look, who hands over rooms. Also have found very good room for 10 dollars. By the evening we descended{went} in cafe. Have then gone{send then} to park and there there were plants of subtropics and subequatorial woods. Ponds with small fishes. We have looked park and have laid down to sleep.

 

In 6 mornings from street the crash of branches and jingling kanov is distributed. Cyril hastens{hurries} on a train. As it reminds Carpathians! Beside with parking an obelisk to guerrillas Balaklavskoj of a division. We assign a bouquet of yellow buttercups growing here many{a lot of}. Long we go on most naezzhennoj to road. Beeches covered the ground with leaves. Leaves have dried up, have painted in red slopes of beams, have covered stones, footpaths and rustle under legs{foots}. It is necessary to pass{take place} 10 km up to highway and 5 on highway downwards, up to Forosa. We suggest Cyril to put on one gas bag under couplers of a backpack and similarly to the superman to depart to Simferopol. However, we move quickly enough. We go on Beam Bjuzjuka, we pass stream Bjuzjuka, we rise on mountain Bjuzjuka. Beeches part before the thrown small house of the forester. It{he} typical, as at all Crimean foresters. White, stone, one-storeyed, in a wood. The pond with a well is, and here the monument specified in the description did not see. Burns the sun. Cyril with Vasej have escaped far forward. Having stopped to undress, I find on myself at once 5 or 6 microscopic ticks - up to 1 mm in length which are pulled out very easily, but the fact is unpleasant. On the open hills it is had a rest. The woman with sidushkoj approaches{suits} and gloomy tells, that « up to a monastery you, can, by the evening and will reach ». First, on a card{map} there is no monastery, and secondly, by this time Cyril should be in a train. Again having thought about Turbomene, we continue a way. At a following stop (the Devil's ladder) it is spent total protivokleshchevoj survey. These surveys are done{made} on a regular basis - in the morning and in the evening, and now also repeatedly in the afternoon. Each tourist examines the hands, legs{foots}, armpits and genitals, then becomes the letter "G", moves apart buttocks and asks other tourist to look, whether there are no on it{him} ticks. Thus the second tourist examines also a back, and at the same time hands, a stomach{belly} and legs{foots} - for the control. More often ticks do not appear. At all neighboring tops it is visible geodetic signs. We already on zubjah the steep stone wall going along coast. Below tiny houses, roads, a tunnel and the city of Foros, huge Black sea. On a wall rock-climbers have just risen. We go upwards on the renewed Roman road which has been still laid out by stones. A following site - descent{release} through a beechen wood. After slow conversation and smooth movement in dense foliage suddenly we appear on asphalt. It appears, that it is necessary to go not downwards, and 20 minutes on highway upwards - up to pass Bajdarskie a gate. This gate are constructed in honour of the termination{ending} of construction of road Sevastopol - Yalta. Our highway represents a wide streamer with the arranged well stops, sources and viewing platforms. Bajdarskie a gate of grey color, are similar to the Triumphal arch. From them the kind on the church costing{standing} as on a palm on a ledge of a huge rock opens. On the narrow foot track which is cutting off a streamer of highway, quickly we go down to a temple. There very festively. The priest in the street christens the child; pines, a tile, a pig-iron fence of a viewing platform, a mosaic on a floor, icons with a heavenly background, it is dazzling white walls and spikes burning on the sun. The church is approximately on the middle of height of rocks. We stamp downwards on a streamer. Our hoofs it is unusual klatsajut on asphalt, are past carried by dear{expensive} freakish avto, behind a stone border pines, junipers and cypresses tower. At dizzy height Cyril notices rock-climbers. Otdyham, considering{examining} in the field-glass technics{technical equipment} of an ascention. Kind people specify a short footpath and, balancing on abrupt tracks, we again reduce a way. The rare relic tree srtawberry Here grows. During shooting refuses eksponometr. Trying it{him} to repair, I lag behind group. My footpath leaves on highway on 100 m above that place where send{have left} the others. More likely to Forosu, to the sea, on a wild beach! We bathe in cyanic water among huge brown boulders, we eat pljushki and it is said goodbye to Cyril - it{he} escapes to marshrutke up to Sevastopol. We remove a room in cosy inhabited quarter - « in settlement » - in 9-тиэтажной to a tower, on a ground floor. The house is surrounded by freakish trees and bushes, shops, magazinchikami, barchikami and obmechnikami. Sending to walk, furtively we scatter in a room wet rotten tent and it is opened more widely a window - that not so stank. On a tray we get a card{map} of Crimea 1:50000 with tourist tracks, as at Cyril. We have supper in the next house, on the open area polupustogo cafe. The barman treats us to tasty Crimean faults{wines}: red dry « the Ruby Chersonese » - "Inkerman"; red moist « Bastardo Old Crimea » and red sweet "Muskatel" - "Massandra". We liked everything, but the most tasty, perhaps, was "Muskatel". Has not remained without attention and a pork chop with a potato, and plov, and salad from grasses and fresh cabbage. Were reserved by water, the field-glass, sidushkami and a small lamp - we go in Forossky park. This miracle was constructed by tea king Kuznetsov. In park means have been enclosed so much, that all its{his} considerable area, speak, it would be possible to cover imperial storublevkami. Here cascades prudikov with planked footway, falls, besedki, lesenki and set of plants from all light. For example, sekvojja-дендрон, a yew, the Italian pine, a cedar, a tree srtawberry, a thuja, a cypress, a box, palm trees and much many other things. When above sharp peaks of cypresses stars have started to appear, we send{have passed} to quay and under noise of waves have reached cape with a locator. From it{him} the kind on a beacon of cape Sarych - the most southern point of Crimea (260 km up to Turkey) has opened. Primostiv on a coastal shop the tired out legs{foots} and zadnitsy, we inhale iodide aroma of the sea, we listen to noise of waves and we observe fires on masts of the far ships. Houses long we drink tea, we write diaries and we read the books given out by the mistress about local sights.

 

On May, 10th

We have risen have put on, have washed{endow, have washed}, had breakfast. Then we have gone{send} to park to photograph these unusual plants. Then send{have come} on the sea. Have then bought{purchased} souvenirs. Have sat down{lodge} on marshrutku - have reached to Yalta, and lodge then in the machine{car} up to Simferopol and the driver has told a lot of interesting. Stories of the driver: 1. A legend of two rocks of brothers: there Lived two brothers, once they have caught a gold small fish and it{she} has told, that will give them a ring that they did{made} good business{affairs} with it{him} for everything and if will make for itself - that will harden. Brothers have released{have let off} a small fish, have taken a ring. Long they did{made} by another good. And have then met two ladies and have presented a ring that they have grown fond of them. Have set in the carriage and have gone, suddenly the road was narrowed, there was a sea and brothers have hardened. 2. About the Bear-mountain exists other legend: the vein one girl and it{she} has somehow got to bears. And when it{she} has grown, bears have grown fond of it{her}, and it{she} has found to herself the groom, and bears did not want that it{she} leaved from them. And one has pursued them and here to pair the idea has come. They have jumped in a boat and have floated, and the bear could make nothing and so has become angry - that has hardened. 3. The story about museums of "Sevastopol": In Sevastopol it is a lot of museums also there is a panorama and diarama. And still there is a museum of sea animals: there are small sharks from Black sea, a crash, a herring, rapany, snails, different fishes, mureny, crabs, cancers, dolphins, jellyfishes - and still are a jellyfish from Pacific ocean. If it{she} will sting, blood of any essence turns to foam and it perishes. We have reached to Simferopol and began to search for cafe. We have found cafe « Indian kitchen{cuisine} ». But much we could not eat. All was awfully sharp. At us the train was fast. 104.12 car - a reserved seat compartment. We have bought{purchased}: in road - WINE, in Simferopol - a long loaf "Crimea", water - 2 but., tea - 1 pieces

At the mistress a cat and though it{she} did not sit at us in a room, probably, here full its{her} wool. At Vasi the allergy begins, it{he} podkashlivaet and breathes often-is frequent. I give it{him} at night a tablet. Since morning the same and we leave more quickly to walk. In the street all ispravletsja. It is cloudy. We have breakfast in the same cafe, under a huge pine with long needles and huge shishkami. Submit an omelette and local sight - a small fish sultaka-барабулька. Today we try{taste} massandrovskie "Ah-серез" (red sweet) and "pino-гри" (pink semisweet). Has liked "Ah-серез". In any case, during tasting there comes the moment when all essence soars up in heavens, and heavens do{make} three-dimensional turn with perepodvyvertom, giving vent on the southern ground shined{covered} by the sun miriadami multi-coloured poured sparks. Starts to look through the sun, and we photograph park, city and a beach. On quay a cold wind. On edge{territory} of a breakwater the naked pig-iron muzhik - one more local sight sits. Many accept it{him} for present{true} and we too in the beginning come across on this fishing tackle. I say goodbye to the sea, bathing on yesterday's stones, but already at a greater wave. In square from mail we buy souvenirs from the Crimean juniper - bracelets, pillows, spoons and necklaces. For uninitiated starfishes which do not live in Black sea and corals which do not grow in Black sea here are on sale. vasja chooses a composition with the crab and rapanom and all road carefully it{her} protects. I call from mail to parents on mobile. All is very well audible also manages in 2.5 grn. They advise to fly from Simferopol by the plane as in Zaporozhye there was an explosion in a military warehouse and trains move with delay. Having come back home, feverishly we pack backpacks and just we are in time on marshrutku up to Yalta (6 grn + 2 grn luggage / chel.) . By a wind we are carried by in already familiar places. At 13:00 - on road service station of Yalta. We do not have not enough tickets for the bus 13:10. Around any easy{light} confusion in general reigns: schedules marshrutok are not present, cash departments of road service station are deeply in a cellar and only hordes krovozhadnyh private traders important perambulate on vokzalnoj the areas, tinkling keys from the machines{cars}. Desperately bargaining, we agree with vokzalnoj a mafia for 50 grn. The driver appears affable and talkative. All road tells legends about Twins and aju-сбъ, the Bear photographes us on a background of mountain and delivers in firm shop of the Crimean wines{faults}. We appear in small pogrebke, in an environment of kegs with kranikami. We buy on 1.5 l Black muskatel, Bastardo, the Pink muscat and port Livadija, certainly preliminary all having tasted. At 14:30 we leave in Simferopol and we get the guidebook across Crimea, in hope yet time to come back in this beautiful and hospitable place. It is tasty and cosy to attempt near to station it is not possible. We eat the sharpest plov in an institution « the Indian kitchen{cuisine} », for the remained grivnas it is bought mineral water and it is plunged into a train №104 "Evpatoria-Moscow". Because of accident to Zaporozhye a train direct kruzhnym by, through Kherson. Possible{probable} time of delay - 8 hours. A car with reserved seats, "compartment" in the middle of the car, normal (not lateral!) Shelfs, good neigbours and a cheerful conductor. The conductor in conversation on our delay advises all to lay down on shelfs that is less and to not sweat. We go, pokushivaja to "Gaul-галу" with the Simferopol bread and the "Crimean" mineral water. Perhaps, at reading a diary has developed prevratnoe representation about "Gale-гале". Know: it not so! Here only a part of names of the products used in a hike: an omelette sublimirovannyj with oil{butter}, an omelette sublimirovannyj with mushrooms, a porridge ovsjanaja with apples and a cowberry (a bilberry / a black currant / a blueberry), grechka with the hen, grechka with mushrooms and sour cream, an ear Volga from a pike perch, soup beef with rice, soup beef with a potato, soup chicken with rice, soup with ceps, a mashed potatoes with a liver and an onions{a bow}, a mashed potatoes with a beef, a beef sublimirovannaja. Here such variety. Prepares "Gala-гала" simply: contents of a bag get enough sleep in a bowl and are filled in with one mug of warm water. In 3-4 minutes it is possible to eat, and the bag should be thrown in a fire - soon it{he} there completely will disappear. During our travel, despite of monstrous conditions of transportation, any of packings "Gauls-галы" has not suffered. And if you will see in the exhausted Cyril's photo - do not trust: it is simply cheap trick forged by ill-wishers in one versions of program Photoshop!

Periodically us frighten, that we are late on 10 ch, that is fraught with arrival in 2 ch nights and spending the night at station. At one station we cannot buy{purchase} some cookies or something similar, it is supposed, that passengers should drink beer and is a vobla or ice-cream. In Tula, at last, Igor with Vasej buy gingerbread. Eventually we are late only on 8.5ч both we come at 00.30 and we are in time by the underground. About the house we at 1.30. Fortunately neigbour Anja does not sleep yet - the window on kitchen{cuisine} is shone - and that we have forgotten a key from a door intercommunication system. Slightly surprised by our call, it{she} opens a door. All. We at home. And such impression, that us was not at least weeks 3.

Igor Lipin, Moscow.