Creating positive vibrations... (a response about a hike)

Written by Михаил Пеньков из Курска So, travelling (where want, there and strike) a note about the Big Crimean Hike. Pisany for corporate press, vposledstvie are cut down three times. Here I result{bring} almost full version, besides, podredaktirovannuju in view of features of audience LJ, a photo I shall lay out later... That is, tomorrow. With what all has begun, you ask? And all has begun that else in the past to year has arrived{flied} in my mail box, in a heap of an other spam, preljubopytnejshee pismetso. In which called to walk on zapovednym to tracks of Crimean mountains, overcoming steep slopes and not less abrupt descents{releases}, prodirajas through thickets of beechen woods, disappearing from artful foresters and eating almost with a pasture … Alas, during that moment to arrange to itself such travel at me opportunities it has not appeared, but the splinter in brains zasela and itched up to the beginning of a present holiday season. And here in the end of spring - the beginning of summer I have gone in plavane on a world wide web with the purpose to find the one who would lead me on that zapovednym to tracks. Firstly in searches not so carried: Any not clear offers where walks by duration hour-two alternated constant crossings{moving} came across, and in fact it would be desirable the present{true} hike, on precepts ancient (« omnia mia mecum porto »), in fact, as is known, « at everyone the dream and the temperament ». And here - searches crown success, the route is discussed, tickets are bought{purchased}, the backpack is laid - and the train bears{carries} it{him} and me together with it{him} to so to long expected adventures.
As it has appeared at a meeting at station in Simferopol, hikes will be organized also with a site on the Internet a little appreciable tour agency, and the enthusiast-single by name Cyril has created not. The site supports{maintains}, itself develops routes, itself groups collects and drives. And that group in structure of which I have appeared, consisted, not much, not a little, from four person, including the instructor: hardly later children{guys} have joined us from Saratov. Have got acquainted, reserved by products, have finally coordinated{agreeed} a route - have gone{send}.
By itself, not from the Simferopol station have gone{send}. First have reached to settlement under name Perevalnoe, and therefrom have already started to clamber on the bottom plateau of the Chatir-Dag.
If to go from Simferopol on the south, to the Alushta, or on the east, to Feodosiya it is fast enough above road there will be a mountain similar to a huge tent. It also is the Chatir-Dag (and similarity to a tent and has given mountain the name, in translation{transfer} with Turkic - "Tent-mountain") which western top, the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker, the second top of Crimea, rises above the sea on 1527 meters. You can tell: « Well also what, unless it is height? Yes on it{her} for a day it is possible to run and back to return! » Yes, from a camp site « Angarsk pass » it is quite possible to carry out such walk, and groups such to us then met. But they counted on one-day walk and went, it is possible to tell, nalegke! And for us one of the important tourist rules yet has not started to operate{work}: « The has more eaten, the it is easier to go » because on halts we did not stop yet. Besides we wished to visit{attend} the cave of the Emin-Bair-Hosar located on the bottom plateau so the ascention on the Chatir-Dag at us has borrowed{occupied}, it is possible to tell, put and a quarter … But about it{this} hardly later.
emine-нбїУ-Х«ЯбУ for a long time also it is widely known, it is possible to tell, enters into « a gentlemen's set » traveller across Crimea: it is pleasant to diversify the holiday, having replaced for a while a heat and the bright sun of coast on some mrachnovatoe a vault where the year round the temperature keeps on a mark +4, and humidity - 100 percent{interests}. Whether this contrast involves huge quantity{amount} of tourists (we of the turn had to wait for not less hour) in a cave? Probably, as it{he} too, but more likely - nevertheless beauty of a cave: the freakish form natechnye the formations{educations} of the most different colors{flowers} gleaming in a view of lamps, huge halls where at the bottom lay already acquired stalagmites tsiklopicheskie blocks - traces of ancient earthquake of huge force, the paleontologic museum … Yes, yes, in a cave is equipped, though also small, but the real museum! The matter is that the input{entrance} in a cave represents wide enough and deep well which became a trap for the animals occupied mountain plateaus of Crimea during immemorial times. And now near to a route it is possible to see almost completely collected skeletons mamontenka, a noble deer, and in a museum - fragments of remains of the diversified animals, from the fossilized crab up to a teeth of a cave lion.
After visiting a cave of time at us remains very little, only on finding a place for a lodging for the night, to equip camp and to cook food. Such place was at an input{entrance} in one of grottoes which on a plateau too it is a lot of. But "ours", likely, the biggest and the rendered most habitable: traces of former parking were present in the form of laying under tents from the dry grass, equipped kostrishcha and, by itself, the empty cans which have covered a bottom of a grotto under the rocky arch. But we there have not added any!
Probably, owing to that day was the first and not the most complex{difficult}, after a supper there were forces and mood on conversations with a fire, recitation, ljubovanie on stars and the moon … in general, the first day gave hope, as will be as further. And the beginning of the second day quite has justified this expectation. Have risen together with the sun and about eight mornings (on local time) were on a route. This day plans were napoleonic: to rise on the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker, to go down up to Angarsk pass and to reach up to podnozhja Demerdzhi where and to rise on parking. Already rise on the top plateau of the Chatir-Dag has let know, that mountains is always mountains, let even they both low, and flat. Because, likely, that rise passed{took place} on oshchutimo to an abrupt slope and though skills of rock-climbing were not required, but hands to connect it was necessary often enough, any details karabkanja on top were not remembered. And already there we were met with compensation for works: The opened kind on half of Crimea, far - after all, 15 kilometers, but thus such close shine of the sea, a fresh mountain wind … and still - a halt and photographing!
After rise I was waited with a surprise: it has appeared, that long descent{release} is given do not grow heavy nearly, than rise. To go down we should almost on eight hundred meters, and complex{difficult} enough sites came across. But the most complex{difficult} have appeared to pass{take place} two kilometers along a line Simferopol - Alushta … Who could think, that incomplete two days far from cars so will clean lungs, that the exhaust will be felt on the approach to road, and long enough time then is required to get used to noise of machines{cars} and presence at air of the fulfilled gases. And in fact and in cities people manage to live … Though a statement there is quickly enough, but a way from top up to pass, after all, has borrowed{occupied} some hours for which we had time and to regale on a ripening blackberry, and to type{collect} fresh vkusnejshej waters from a spring (after a hike I still nedelku have luxuriated at coast, naturally, being in Crimea, it is necessary to try wonderful wine of the Crimean factories; But anything I am more tasty some fresh water on a route and I do not remember), and even to undergo to an attack of mosquitoes, and to have a bite (naturally, all dust having taken away with myself) in a shadow of huge beeches... To bottom Demerdzhi we rose in the evening, to tell the truth, did not rise, and were dragged, almost effort of will: the second day, contrary to expectations, has appeared more difficultly the first. At last, on parking, up to us rendered habitable by archeologic parties{sets}, have broken camp, had supper and got in tents.
Next morning our group has broken up … Children{Guys} from Saratov, Marrying and Dasha, had at the disposal of all week, and they still would like and to plunge into the sea, and at beauty of Southern coast to look, therefore they and have decided to return to a civilization. Four together we have reached ruins of fortress Funa which served very much to many people occupied Crimea, from ancient Romans up to the Crimean Tatars, but longest - to byzantines, and there our roads dispatch{deliver;have missed}. Our road laid on top Demerdzhi. If you went on a line Simferopol - Alushta, but have for certain paid attention, that on rising to the east from road to mountain one of the rocks turned to the sea, is very similar to a human head. Speak, that prince Potyomkin, showing Ekaterina Vtoroj new Russian possession, has paid attention of empress to this rock, having told, that the nature has immortalized in the Crimean rocks a face gosudaryni. However even before connection of Crimea to Russia there was other legend about this mountain, describing one of many gains of Crimea, with participation of the severe smith, brave girl Maria... Beautifully, but it{her} I shall not result{bring}, in general, after a tragic outcome the mountain has embodied that Maria's face on the slope. Want to learn{find out} more - there is an electric Internet with search systems.
The way on top Demerdzhi lays through two belts{zones} of woods - all over again deciduous, then coniferous. Pines grow even on rocks, having caught roots in breed and resisting to winds. The wind also gives to trees very freakish forms reminding the Japanese engravings. Though now on mountain the unextinguishable flame, the ancient name it{she} also does not flare has quite justified - for top the cloud was hooked, having covered both us, and everyone who has decided to consider{examine} miracles Demerdzhi more close. The route on Demerzhdi is very popular, and as it was found out, not only among Russians and ukraintsev: Crimea, apparently, became favourite vacation spot at Poles, and already at top to us there was a group of France. In the same place, at top, enterprising local residents have made kafeshku where it is possible to drink to tea, to try plova and to taste gifts{for nothing} of the Crimean vineyards … Stop, we in a hike!
Third our parking was in a valley between Southern and Northern Demerdzhi. The remarkable place, the truth, pleasure from stay there has been a little bit saddened by the neighbourhood of unduly noisy company. Therefore next morning we have hastened to say goodbye to them still before our neighbours have woken up after roughly lead night.
From a valley where we not so easy spent the night, we have risen on Northern Demerdzhi. There the mysterious construction, in general, noticed from the Chatir-Dag was found out: two towers, more all similar to basketball boards. After some meditations all of us have come to conclusion, that it all the same not the basketball platform in due time chosen and equipped by aliens - differently who could put at height of 1365 meters five-meter basketball boards, - and any aerials-reflectors. But - if you there will appear - can to think up also the versions, that it for not absolutely clear shtukoviny. Therefrom our way ran on demerdzhi-n®ЅС past the Table-mountain, then on tirke-n®ЅС and further - on karabi-n®ЅТ. JAjla are extensive plateaus of Crimean mountains. At first sight, they are very similar to steppes of the Average strip, but it if for some time to forget, that you are at height hardly more kilometer above sea level and to not pay attention on looking out of under a thin layer of ground rocky outputs{exits}. And to recollect, that there are we not across native Chernozem region, was to approach{suit} to edge{territory} of a plateau enough and to admire an opening panorama of mountains and the seas. Very unusual detail for the flat person of an opening kind will be the birds soaring somewhere there, below … the Way on jajle does not differ a variety of landscapes, unlike the valleys dividing{sharing} different sites of plateau. Up to a hike I never could happen in a beechen wood, it{he} rather essentially differs from our habitual wood. First of all, the shadow, accordingly, in it{him} has more than cool and moisture, and a underbrush - on the contrary, very modest. But - the whole thrickets paporotnika! Here where on the night of Ivan Kupalu to go paporotnikovyj color to search! However I have not mentioned, that we have absolutely meaningly deviated known tourist routes - if the last days to us often enough there were other groups up to the finish of a hike such meetings became a rarity. Originally we were going to pass by falls Dzhur-Джур, too very popular place for visitings but when Cyril has learned{has found out}, that I already saw this falls, it{he} has decided to show me the favourite place in Crimea - plateau karabi-n®Ѕб. This place, it{he} spoke, causes very alive associations with the Inner Mongolia mentioned at Century of Pelevin in « CHapaeve and Emptiness ». And during a way from a southwest extremity of a plateau up to the meteorological station located almost in its{his} center in it{this} it was quite possible to be convinced. Monotonous hills, porosshie the burnt out grass, on borders of a plateau - the mountains covered by a wood, fancifully weaved tracks which are running across from a hill on a hill … And it is far on horizon - the purpose of our day time transition, a meteorological station. On a meteorological station there is one more occasion to recollect Pelevin: on a roof of the structure covering a well with potable water, there is a machine gun. Certainly, not present{true} and even not clay - деревянно-tin, but on a background of silence, zakatnogo the sky, burnt and the plateau dried up by winds something potustoronnee in ustremlennom in the sky a machine-gun trunk was guessed by the sun. On a meteorological station the tourist shelter is equipped, we therefore have received an opportunity I go to prepare on a gas cooker, and to have a sleep - on beds. With terribly pressed through generations of tourists grids.
Next morning we send{have left} before, preparation of a breakfast and gathering have borrowed{occupied} the blessing of less time, and we wished to descend{go} from a plateau before on it{him} all force the Crimean sun will pull hard. There was one more reason to leave from the open place: in the north clouds have started to accumulate and from these congestions deaf{indistinct} thunderous impacts reached us. But nevertheless, it was possible to us to examine three caves from set being on karabi-n®ЅС.
In territory of Crimea there is a set of various reserves, zakaznikov and protected natural complexes, on karabi-n®ЅС their whole two: geological zakaznik the Mountain karst of Crimea and Botanical zakaznik karabi-n®Ѕб. Crimean mountains are combined on advantage from sedimentary breeds and very strongly subject to destruction by water and a wind. Owing to action of these forces freakish rocky formations{educations} Demerdzhi and caves of the Chatir-Dag, and karabi-n®Ѕб - by quantity{amount} of caves also were formed, and on external stones leaving on a surface - reminds a huge piece of cheese. An abundance of caves, both studied{investigated}, and unknown, both vertical, and horizontal as greater{big}, and less, has made a plateau very popular place at cave explorers. We have passed{have taken place}, most likely, past very much many caves, intentionally stopped only at three, went down all in one: Mine{Shaft} Krubera therefore also mine{shaft}, that from a surface instantly leaves downwards, the input{entrance} in cave Mamina was - intentionally or casually - is filled up by stones, and in Big Buzluk to go down it was possible. Other name of this cave - Ice, in the heat of summer on its{her} day remains an ice, well and in the winter and in the spring ice ornaments cover all its{her} arches. Has a little puzzled drawn on the arch of a cave astronomical sign Merkurija but as it{he} there has got and with what purpose, to find out there was nobody. Let it remains a riddle.
Having descended{gone} from a plateau - from a rain we were possible manage some time - we have gone{send} in such places in which breath of history was obviously felt. First ancient, then and the newest. The ancient history reminded of itself names of passes on ancient ways from the rendered habitable areas of Crimea to the sea, and the newest - monuments to guerrillas. And already on passes the rain pursued us since the morning, all the same has caught up with us. First through a ridge as two days prior to that, the cloud has spread, and after it{him} the rain cloud has come. And not that the rain strongly has soaked us, but has essentially detained: it was necessary to wait it{him}, and then - to try to make up for lost time time the accelerated movement. But all the same, descents{releases} on wet slopes detained us, and to parking we send{have approached;have suited} already in twilight.
Parking the Bottom Cook-бЯбЎ, apparently, is in the most damp district of Crimea. Already and the rain for a long time has passed{has taken place}, and hooked there was for mountain a cloud has blown off a wind, but on leaves of beeches all the evening long, all the night long and all the morning long drops of water, from time to time being broken downwards hung. It was cheerful: eat you, for example, a porridge with tushenkoj, and you in a bowl is not present-is not present, and the large drop, or in a mug with tea will fall. That it is the most interesting, despite of dampness, mosquitoes it was not perfect{absolute}. It would be fair to name such places rain woods, but this term is reserved beyond Africa.
The sixth day of a hike, in general, differed from the fifth on surrounding landscapes a little, but by the end the weariness has already started to overcome it{him}. Moreover strengthened again the last rain and road on a before sunset wood. When visibility - meters twenty-thirty, behind each turn again and again opens only the track surrounded by trees, apparently, just about - and will leave on the open place, but again get in a condensed shadow of beeches and is absolutely not clear, how long it can last. There is even a bewilderment developing into angry surprise: how people managed to live in woods?
Evening of the sixth day the unanimous decision was accepted: it is time to come back to a civilization. I would like to luxuriate the second week of holiday at coast, from all meal there were only groats, and we do not concern to admirers of vegetarianism. Therefore in the first half seventh day of a hike we have gone down in settlement Entre Rios - though any river during that moment on it{him;them} did not proceed, one - the Raven - in general has remained behind mountains, another - Ah-ЯСУСє, very rough in the mountains, filled up by set of springs - in a valley has absolutely dried up. When we have gone down from mountains to a civilization, rate of a life was repeatedly accelerated. Literally in an hour the passing machine{car} has taken us to settlement Sea, therefrom another poputka - up to the Pike perch, and therefrom we already by the bus have reached blessed Koktebel where we, having exchanged photos, and have left: I there also have remained, and Cyril has gone to stay for a while to relatives to Feodosiya.
It would be possible to finish a standard pioneer turn{turnover} about « tired, but happy{enough} », but shtampovannye phrases only will spoil till now a remaining sensation with what not sravnimoj freedom, confidence of the forces, participation in secrets of the nature and pleasure from knowledge new. I shall necessarily try to repeat, maybe, only having changed a route in the next summer.

Michael Penkov

10/20/2005