Kiss Of Medusa

A story about a trip to Turkey - Western Lycian trail January 2015. Author: Eugene Makian. Now looking at the tape of friends who post pictures of their Christmas holidays. Most spent the holidays in mountain hikes on snow Carpathians. But I had another plan. Directly opposite. I wanted warmth and sun! I confess - I'm tired of the snow and wind in your face, damp and cold. But I wanted to hike. The solution has been found: a hike on a warm Turkish mountains along the Mediterranean sea. Lycian way.

tractor on the beach, butterfly Valley

One of my friend read that, according to the BBC, "the Lycian way" part of the ten most scenic tourist routes of the world. Mainly because of the butterflies. And especially a lot of them in the same valley - the Valley of the butterflies.

Down there need clinging to the ropes. Pretty hard. It is a picturesque gorge at the bottom of which flows a mountain stream, and one end of which rests in the sea. Here are some wooden bungalows. Very cool place. Directly created for the savages-tourists. I just remembered Meganom. But Cyril Jasko disappointed: it appears in season here boats are imported pile of drunken Germans, and in the evening take back.

So here in this Valley of the butterflies I saw beautiful tractor, cactus, growing near the tree and a palm tree, but no butterflies were found. Not the season.

Little Gothic

The rays of the setting sun barely broke through the thick legs of the pines, when a small group of tourists went deep into the gorge, more and more away from human habitation. It was drizzling. It was decided to make a halt at the first more less smooth meadow right next to the trail.

When the tents were already set, and the first tongues of flame lit the stones lying area, Julia exclaimed:
This cemetery!
"No," said someone, pointing to the mounds slightly like miniature mounds, stones, the - it's the tourists have created.
- What is this? - Julia pointed to a stone that was clearly established at the head of one of the mounds. - And this?

Everyone already saw the stones, keeping the traces of processing: one rectangular, the other with a groove, obviously carved by man. To do there was nothing to look for another place for the new camp too late... there's still a long night...

As I wrote, on the Lycian trail many similar artifacts. Well, some of the long abandoned burial grounds... Maybe even "living". Such it is full.

It seems this piece for pressing olive oil of the same age as the local tombs

As you know, many adventure tourists begin with the words: "and let us we will cut off" or "us go in azimuth?".

It so happened, when in the far-distant year my friends on classic Crimean route "Cave towns of Crimea" after a visit to Calais and lunch in Karaite eatery decided to turn off the journey of the trail. Bored we were. Not interested to go.

Who suggested, I don't remember. But instead of the trail we rushed to the mount in the forehead, deciding to pass and there to find the road in cave city Tepe-Kermen. Needless to say, that as a result of several time climbing through the thick Bush we were on the top, did not find any trail, spent the night in some gorge without water, met dumb foresters are more similar to Chechen militants, but in Tepe-Kermen did not come.

Not hit me and in the ancient ruins of the fortress Pydnai that on the Lycian trail. Many of us passed. But not because we decided to cut. On the contrary. The road was too smooth, and forested ruins personally I noticed too late.

Results

I think with the Lycian trail it was time to stop. A few obligatory words.

In my opinion, the route itself is very light and beautiful. Except for some unpleasant stone sections, when the foot and tries to turn up. Weather were beautiful. At +15, +20. Night near zero. So it is take a warm sleeping bag. Very similar to the may Crimea, but better. Would recommend for those who are camping for the first time.

Infrastructure. In almost all villages. But there were good moments. For example, a very cool modern tram in Antalya. Ilya Varlamov he would have liked. Unlike our Kiev high-speed tram. Good buses from city to city.

Route everywhere is full of orange trees. Fruit littered the roadside. In principle, you can pick up from the trees. If the owner of the garden is not there. If there is, it can be a little indignant, but, rather, to view.

People. Simple rural Turks looked friendly. They smiled, and driving cars always honking, seeing tourists. Greeted. Sellers of all kinds of souvenir stuff too friendly, but somehow different.

The last day turned into a cafe with old receivers and photographs of local jazz stars. It looks like it is going local Bohemians. The menu is written on the disc. In addition to the usual dishes there's something for 160 local CATLOW (80 bucks). That is, we were never able to explain. Said cold appetizer. Black caviar, not otherwise.

I don't like the sounds of the Turkish language. But there are two musicians played guitars and sang something. Very positively. As they say, naturally. I never understood, but it seems that about love. Some of our guys fatter from music and beer and began to give flowers to the girl with the gatekeeper. A loud clap and to Express his appreciation for the musicians. The majority of local visitors sat on the street, where the derived column. On the contrary musicians only we. The liked it, and they are not left in debt. Tried to play something in English. Even tried nothing else matters, but did not work.

And, well, still visited the home of Santa Claus. No, not in Lapland. But there, where he worked as Saint Nicholas. As Kirill said (instructor and organizer of the tour), Noel Baba (the name Nicholas Turks) - the patron Saint of children and drowned. So he is depicted on the monument.

Eugene Makian. Kyiv, January 2015.