Tourists love tigers
Report on the Annapurna trekking to the heart in October 2012
Author: Olga Pugach. Rating: 4.5
On the last day of a campaign Sasha asked if we do not regret that the campaign is over. I cheerfully said no - he was, and that's good, now we have to put the next target. And so, on the way to Pokhara, I realized - I want it back! Recruit 1,200 meters in 1000 and losing the endless stairs, brush your teeth in the company of a giant hairy moth, look at the "fish tail", painfully acute in the early morning light, to move across the icy river, roam across the field, saucer, peer into the distorted perspective Tent peak (somewhere out there put their advanced Chinese mountaineers camp) ... tighten the Himalayas. This is the place, which clears the head. They help to understand what you're made of and what you can.
The Journey Begins
All recommendations are read, collected equipment, the silence in the fridge, 3rd October, we moved to the airport. On the part of the group met in Moscow - Julia and Jack from Vologda and Vic from Kazan flew with us on the same plane. Together, we had to sit in the dock 9:00 Sharjah airport. It was surprisingly easy: all were pleasant and interesting people.
On the advice of Cyril, we immediately took a seat in the hall with carpeted floors. But made a tactical error - huddled in a corner section. Do not make it! Besides us, the angle has attracted a very specific companions. Companions slept under and behind the seats. Sometimes several people at once. Sometimes even managed to squeeze in between the seat and handrail.
The scoreboard flashed the names of cities. Some were familiar with the geography of course, some - of the books Exupery, but most I've heard for the first time.
Final call here - just "call": a special person runs into the waiting room and a shrill, guttural voice calls out, "Agadir". Pending the outcome. In response to cry rolled out from under the bench a few sliders, grab your hand luggage (towel, shoes), and still did not wake up, run, where they will be shown.
In the food court has a McDonald's, Meth café, restaurants Indian and Chinese food, halal snack bar and coffee shop. In general, we have what to do with themselves, apart from reading and talking. In general, in the blessed shardzhianskom airport can live with. It is possible, but not necessary. At 8:00 am, we piled into the womb of a Boeing flying to Kathmandu ...
I looked out the window of an airplane. Left and right, as far as the eye could see, were white downy expanse with no beginning and no end. The plane had already started before the reduction Kathmandu airport, and I look forward to see what it's like Nepal by air. The clouds swirled, and one remained stationary. And then I realized it was not a cloud. I looked at the Himalayas. The Himalayan mountain range stands at 6-8 thousand meters - above the clouds. Very easy to talk about it, read the textbook on geography, but quite another thing - look at it with my own eyes. I understand why people tend to settle on the tops of the mountains of the gods: it is impossible to imagine that there, in the clouds, our reality. However, thousands of people climb the slopes chipped cold. I - there too, but closer to Kathmandu and 4,000 meters below.
Katmandu
So could look like any major airport in the Soviet 1970s. Without computers, with a mass similar to each other workers, with poor ventilation, but with a wood finish. All at once stand in line at the registration table. As long as we stand, we can send a messenger to the tables by the windows - for a registration card. They need to be filled by TRAVEL. passports. It would take 2 photos 3x4. Visa is issued directly during registration. It costs $ 25.
While standing, you can change in the exchanger 10 dollars for a taxi and incidentals. And porazglyadyvat travel. Here are three young Americans with Baubles and dreadlocks. Here are a couple of Germans with lean legs like ostriches. Here is a Spanish family trekkers: lightweight backpacks at all, even in the three-year old baby.
Here we come to know the principle of non-violence for the first time: the time of registration on the table and a cockroach crawled out very positively moved his mustache. Customs officer laughed and brushed his hand. No smearing, no swatted. Who knows who you will become in the next life? ..
And then there was the first mess. Luggage did not arrive. On the ribbon, sadly crawling giant shopping bags with blankets, tube TVs and backpacks passengers from the Czech Republic and Poland. Passengers played "Nepalese roulette": the one who saw the heaps something similar to your luggage is taken directly to tape, and threw a bale on the floor. This was followed by a cry of joy or (come) or sniff disappointed (not that). "It's not that" had to lie on the floor. The fact that for the arrival of the next flight is not throwing passengers, airport officials dumped the dark.
Protorchala before the arrival of flight from the Philippines, we realized that the backpacks somewhere in flight. In any case, delve into the Qomolangma unidentified baggage. Made a claim. They learned that the next flight Airarabia arrives at 23:00, and there is a chance that our luggage will arrive to them. At the very least it is very desirable to hope, because the next morning flew the next day when we scheduled the campaign has already had to go to Pokhara.
In doubt, we piled into a taxi and drove to the hotel. The cost of a taxi to the tourist district of Thamel: 800 rupees - a lot (so much is a vehicle for 6 persons), 200 crore - a great success. It should be guided by 300-400 rupees.
The first day went to the clarification of the rules of conduct on the route, familiarity with that part of the group that was already in place, waiting for lunch and arrival baggage. Pass the time, we decided to walk along the tourist shopping quarter of Thamel. All the main brands, but worth looking for branded stuff only in specialty stores (eg less than a dozen, in the non-proprietary stores comes frank counterfeit). In them - the current collections, that is what the manufacturer actually released this year. It may sound strange, but buy in Moscow item from the collection this year - a big problem: buyers waiting for sales, buying previous collections and sell them under the guise of fresh - for "fresh" money. So go through the company store of the same Marmot, Salewa and North Face is at least in the cultural and educational purposes. But if you want to get dressed, put on my shoes and wrapped up in a sleeping bag with a temperature of -30 degrees of comfort - there are very right place for it.
Held at the same time getting used to the Nepalese specifics. Typical street Kathmandu - this trench the width of a fallen refrigerator. It at the same time trying to squeeze two small cars. As the street - the trade, the first floors of homes on the street hanging from yak wool sweaters, t-shirts, hats - all with Angry birds (in the country a cult "Angry Birds"), cards, badges, sellers ... Sold each shop wish you namaste and for the couple of seconds that will take you on what to pass on, try to sell you everything he has. Parallel between machines, you and the seller will try to squeeze in a few cyclists and possibly motorcyclist.
On a small folding table lie the remains of a rooster. Immediately tied up for its live counterpart. Next to him, children build a pyramid of sand and dust and eat one piece of candy at all. The landlord made the road debris that had accumulated over the previous day, the burning of it and now proudly examines the neighborhood, in the smoke and dust, as Kutuzov at Borodino.
The wires are not removed. When the old cease to "hold", wound up on top of them new. Kathmandu is a distinctive distinctive!
We were lucky - really luggage arrived at 23:00. Happy, we grabbed our backpacks and rushed to the hotel to sleep off the road to Pokhara. Journey really began.
By White Stupa
The road to Pokhara takes 8 hours. If a marathon of running, swimming and cycling track called "Iron Man» (Iron Man), a marathon of eight hours on a bus can be called the "Iron ass." Sleep - it is terrible. Bye. Very quickly you forget that the country's right-hand traffic. If has managed to take the first seat, then wake up, see how at you at full speed rushes truck. Is not alone. So do not sleep and look out the window. On the sides - housing made of cardboard and sticks, kids, animals, brisk trade.
On billboards in almost all individuals belong to the Indian actors. Europeans are less, but they also have. The main thing - all the whites. But almost everyone who moves down the street on foot - a very dark-skinned.
Local feature - advertising, which is drawn on the walls. Special demand of beer San Miguel.
A bit of movement. The most popular recognizable brands of cars - Indian Tata and Mahindra. Trucks and buses are covered with plaques with inscriptions in Sanskrit, garlands, flowers, pictures blue-skinned gods ... When braking pads do not squeak and crackle. Part of city buses and car looks as though it is moving only because the driver believes that it should move and it really wants. Bibikane anticipates, explains and excuses any maneuver.
In short, the ride so, in such transport and on such roads, not believing in rebirth is simply unrealistic. Therefore, the main religion of Nepal - Buddhism. He's here and drive, and live help.
Finally we come to the place. Pokhara - a much more clean, quiet and small town. It stands on the shores of Lake Phewa. Hence it runs up the bulk of the routes to Annapurna, so a lot of tourists. Quay (Lakeside) serves as a local boardwalk and Thamel: Here are concentrated the main eateries and shops. To us it is no longer relevant, so leave things at the hotel and go to knead feet.
The local population is either initially sees the world differently colored, or trying to paint it in all possible colors. Rent a few tear-eye-what-bright boats on the dock of Lake Phewa, sail to the island. Us it is a temple of Varaha (one of the incarnations of Vishnu), but it is notable not only the temple, but also a bunch of lazy pigeons and even more lazy fat carp. However, their laziness does not apply to food. Feeds can be purchased on the same island, the merchant rattles, fans and postcards with views of the lake.
While voracious carp eats its prey, again loaded into the boat and sail to the other side of the lake. Mooring and start the first climb. No backpacks, but without hiking poles. Limbs at first indignant, but quickly adapted.
White Peace Stupa was built by Buddhist monks of a Japanese Buddhist schools. Construction was given to them is not easy, and it's not just in financing - it just was generous. During the construction of the stupa was killed by one of the monks. Thus extremists wanted to scare Buddhists and prevent them to pursue the case. It did not help - stupa was completed, and at its base, the brothers set up a bust of the deceased.
Remove shoes, climb to the top, and then with the most pious thoughts down on levels stupa clockwise sure! If done correctly, wishes will come true, and will come in the life of happiness, peace and prosperity. Even if not done correctly, Buddhism only peaceable that something will still be good.
Going down, met with buffalo calf. A little later - with his mom. Perhaps she was afraid that we will teach her son's bad, so fussed uselessly. In this case, just outside the vertical jungle paths start to fall into that means to secure a giant slallom with obstacles.
However, we happily went down to the keel. On the boats sailed to the pier. From the pier, got to the restaurant, where the heroic dinner, and after took a decisive throw to the hotel.
Stairs thousands of steps
In the morning at the hotel we were in for a more compact bus. Brakes also gnashed, the driver was so much fun to meet all rode more distinctive truck, so all the two hours we diligently looked through the windows and tried not to look in the windshield. Settlements became less of nature - more. In the window constantly seen the longest river of Nepal - Karnali. It is hidden in a deep ravine, the roars somewhere near by.
But that's Nayapul. From the highest point - the roof either stop, or simply the central building - we are greeted by a cock. Next - feet. Prior to the checkpoint to go about an hour. Dusty road, by the side again a number of similar shops that sell the same products. So we're very glad, when they end. And they come to an end before the bridge. The group is registered officially intrudes on the route - and here comes this great journey.
Here we have begun to move in the form in which then went all along the route: Cyril went first, second instructor Sasha - last. Both worked portable radio, on average every half hour session was arranged. But in the early days it was not so important: the group has not yet stretched, no one not in a hurry, everyone waited for everyone.
The first day pripodnes us the gift of a "ladder thousands of steps." In fact, approximately 1750 stages. Walk was very easy: the steps are made of smooth flat rocks, step height - from 10 to 30 (rarely) centimeters. Every 100-200 meters of elevation is an island holiday - elevation with wide boards on which you can put a backpack.
In parallel, we are raised with several groups, countless singles and doubles tourists. Descend towards the same groups and local residents, accompanied by goats, cows and donkeys with baggage. Peacefully grazing chickens and children.
One of the most important conditions for a peaceful rise (after even breathing, of course) - to accept the fact that the goats, cows, buffaloes and chickens crapped everywhere. After that - breathe out, breathe and feel free to put a foot in any place that seems comfortable.
Cyril constantly repeating that we need to climb gradually, as slowly as possible. Therefore, everyone has the time to look around properly. Mindfulness immediately brings results - found a strange fruit, similar to a tiny watermelon. Alas, was found inside white-green, and not bright red flesh.
mikroarbuz (photo Ghali Yakovleva)
1 parking
Our first stop was hanging over the mountain. After lunch, pulled the clouds, and it was difficult for us to assess the neighborhood - is trying to figure out approximately how many thousands of meters into a nearby hill. Five thousand meters stood out in the morning - and with them, beckoned fishtail Machapuchare.
After a warm shower and a hearty dinner in the "mess" begin singing and playing "Monopoly".
Monopoly (photo Lena Korshunova)
Multiple Maniacs, practice yoga, have expressed a desire to start the morning with a "welcome to the sun." Well, the sun is really responded to the greeting, and was gracious to us. Bask in the sun at the same time the daughter of housewife with a baby and a laptop, the whole thing laid out on a blanket and began to chat on Skype, alternately turning the monitor then to the mountains, then to us, to the child.
The first height and precious road
Himalaya surprise that all the lights, you will see after the sun goes down, will burn in lodges - small hotels and private households are located strictly on the route. 100 meters up and down - and all. Black, vast uninhabited forests. Night, by the way, comes instantly: still light at 17:00, at 17:15 the sun sets over the nearest hill, at 17:40 - impenetrable, inky darkness. On the lower sky features huge stars.
If we usually come into place overnight at about 3 pm, then we got Gorepani much earlier. They went to acclimate to Poon Hill (3210 m). The rise comes easily, leading up beaten track. At the top of anybody lonely lookout tower sticks, mountain clouds clouds gradually becomes chilly. We are in different voices whining that acclimate cold and dreary, but Cyril adamant, and we continue to learn. When the cloud creeps directly to the observation tower, it becomes absolutely unbearable, and we begin to slowly descend.
PunHill1
PunHill2
In the evening, recharge the apple pie - and make plans for the morning: at 5:00 gala is scheduled to top out - watch the sun rise on the same Poon Hill.
The morning is not the way to find out. In complete darkness, walks up a multinational crowd. Where so many people in a small Gorepani? How many people are already up?
On the rise I lose sight of Cyril and Dima and quite inappropriately remember the movie "The Expendables 2". I try to run up the hill, slowly wandering in overtaking the Germans. Nothing. I should not have done it. Since I'm not a veteran of the war, and not even the actor Liam Hemsworth, the heart very quickly began furiously pounding. I had to lose five minutes trying to just catch your breath.
But what transformed vertex! First, people in bright clothes have turned it into a tourist anthill. The earliest have already taken place on the perimeter of the tower. Slightly less fortunate swarmed up the stairs. Others prefer to drink hot tea and watch the beauty underneath. Secondly - and in the main! - The clouds dispersed. Now with Poon Hill is seen Nilgiri, Dhaulagiri and Annapurna all three sisters. It's an incredible sight. When the first ray of the sun appears from behind the foothills of the crowd at the top of Poon Hill sees amicable delighted exhale. Chirping cameras. Stringy golden light becomes richer, he blushes, shimmers - and that's the very moment for which we drove ourselves the crack of dawn to the top - the top of Dhaulagiri scarlet lights!
PunHill2
PunHill3
In the multilingual mishmash easily start dating. We toss a few words with the Dutch-Danish couple: she says they live in Gorepani more than a week, go here every morning, but such excitement can see for the first time.
Ad libitum after watching white and pink mountain, go down to breakfast.
Today we are going through some magical way - every stone shines golden crumbs. When I saw that gleam in the first time, the thought flashed through my head: someone dropped and trampled eye shadow. Since, during the foot hits the head is in the background, the second idea has caught up with me in five minutes - to whom and for what are the shadows? Not the first and not the last time it was regrettable that there is no time to stop and take a picture of it. But I remember that.
Alas, even the shine underfoot does not save the endless stairs. But the stairs still rests on the Mountain View Lodge. This is the first flat area since we got out of Pokhara. Terrace on which the lodge is similar to a small golf course grass conscientiously eat up two horses, it is important for them goes a giant chicken matriarch. Damn, I can not find her photo!
Before going to sleep I meet Dima. He makes a terrible face and complains that their Kirill and Sasha room smells like socks. That's nothing unusual, of course, but not Nuys. After this conversation, Dima went into the room, climbed into the sleeping bag and began to shut down already, when he heard a sound. Nastrolko sound was odd that it was difficult to compare with something out of this world. According to Dmitry, with the sound might sneeze Alien. Dima stiffened. Sasha (after all, this is a man with nerves of steel!) Explained under his bed climbed some critter. As time went on. Under the bed came the ominous groaning, clattering, scratching ... In the end, the guys could not stand there and shined a flashlight. It was found that in a large bag, in which a portion of the group folded, sleeping bags, climbed that same chicken matriarch. And there was demolished. Twice.
Eggs hostess claimed, the chicken was put under house arrest - in a basket. Along with chicken left the room a strange smell.
There should have been a picture of chicken in a basket, but it is not - we have put forward, and it was not up to the shootings. Here's a skull. He guarded the plantation either rice, or another very like him cereal.
Travel
Route "Around Annapurna" is quite easy. If you do not set a goal to set a record rate, then it can pass everyone - except perhaps that people with severe arthritis or problems with the musculoskeletal system. Therefore, the route met completely different people.
Mountain View Lodge pleased with a meeting with two elderly hippies. Absolutely charming couple Germans older than 60 years. She - with scarlet lipstick in a flared skirt and embroidered leather boots, he - in almost cowboy boots. On the morning of the gentlemen enthusiastically danced to Parov Stelar Band from the phone. Later, we met them on the route and always welcomed.
But now a day we see the Japanese and Chinese. If you see a person on the road in bright pink tights, a green skirt and with a wooden stick in his hand - it is 100% Japanese. Most often, the person put on underwear, sweater, light jacket, and his face smeared sunscreen and cover some handkerchief. I would be all over this dress fell from heat stroke after about five minutes. And they did go. Scary people. As we beat them at Port Arthur?
About a courtesy call on the route should be discussed separately. Nobody throws his feet. No one leaves garbage anywhere. At a meeting with local people and other trekkers taken hello - you can international hi, but better - Indo-Nepalese "namaste." Gradually generated code politeness than "namaste" going up and are tired.
Champions "namaschenii" - Nepalese children. I can not vouch that they did not agree among themselves who will stretch longer and Poteshnoe his "namaste-ee" (and not just so, and with howls), then listen to how ridiculous we will answer them.
District center
Standard lodge - a pair of small houses or one large structure. Several lodges and adjoining gardens form a full-fledged town. We are constantly going through. On the background of the district center Chomrong enormous. But the main thing - early in the morning Kirill warned us that in Chomrong is delicious pastries. Therefore, 1000 meters of elevation were observed suspiciously easy - all beckoning buns. Not in vain. They were incredibly beautiful - soft, with apples and cinnamon dough out of the air ... I do not like baking. Honestly I do not like and do not eat. But here I could not refuse.
Speaking of food. Rarely on what the local cuisine has a full plate - usually a gas burner. Sometimes two. In these circumstances, the Nepalese manage to show the wonders of cooking. Apple pie! Danish cinnamon rolls! Buns! Apple roll (cheburek with apples - or, in general space, with melted chocolate "Snickers" or "Mars")! .. No, it's beyond words. We just hit the restaurant, which is baked these wonders. Then had lunch here, a rest - and again collapsed. But while some members of the group took the strategic decision (to take two buns, that was enough for dinner, or three to once and for breakfast?), Wedged between us, a Dane. At a rate which would be the envy diving eagle, he bought a Danish bun, glared at her teeth, cut off and it looks like without chewing, swallowing her rosy side - and ran down.
Relaksiruya in Chomrong, we considered the blue roof of the lodge, where we were to spend the night. The road to it seemed shallow and did not look like a regular ladder 100,500,000 steps.
But this was exactly it. In addition, in the lower reaches of us caught in the rain. He accompanied the entire climb. Having dealt with the last flights of stairs and sloping areas, the first messengers literally ran into Sinuvu. Tail walking slowly, quietly, even majestic. With the spreading of outstretched hands and meet people dropped (which, presumably, much frightened fellow travelers).
Innovation on the route - a gas shower. Gas chamber consists of a room two by two meters, with the usual shower, heated by the sun, and the gas column, which is next to you. Actually, the main task is to ensure bather to catch namytsya and not be poisoned by fumes. But as Galya said, "I do not know what force will need to have to turn off the hot water."
Yes, a huge plus Himalayan trek - the ability to be washed in warm water before going to bed. Socks, living their lives, can only come with a strong desire of the owner.
The second advantage - a multiethnic. Before dinner, all the tenants come to the lodge "dining room", sit down at the common table, and begin to communicate on any of the available languages. Sinuvu populated the Russian-Ukrainian group, a Chinese woman with a guide, a girl from Finland and her companion of New Zealand, an American of Russian origin, with a satellite, which is pretty well said "salad" and knew who Cheburashka and two Poles, Swiss, to communicate with Americans in French.
And in Sinuve had a double birthday party - congratulations supermegazhenschinu Il and instructor Sasha. On this occasion, the hosts pryanikoobrazny baked cake. We singed songs, drank 50 grams of alcohol wrong by drowning him in liters of tea masala, at 7 pm went to bed.
Gradually getting colder. The next day we spend the night in the Himalaya. Water supply is represented by a thin tube of ice water that flows from the top. How close they can be judged from the fact that the cold water pipe. Exit to the base camp was assigned to the morning. It was before breakfast, we get warm as they could. She even had to dance Ledkov-Yenko, lambada and the Macarena. I also danced, but the photos do not show.
From Machapuchare - to Annapurna
How ironic: to climb to the base camp of Annapurna (Annapurna Base Camp, or ABC), we have to go through the base camp Machapuchare (Machapuchhre Base Camp, or MBC), but at the very Machapuchare ups are prohibited. The only attempt climbing it was made in 1957, but with the climbers took a promise that at the very top, they do not set foot. And so it happened - they had to stop for 50 meters before it. Then the king of Nepal announced that the mountain is sacred, it is home to Shiva, and generally it is Shambhala. And it means that people do not need to go there.
On the road to pass by MBC Hinku caves. In the holy cave for a while lived patriarch. I expected more from the elder modesty instead of the monastery we were on stage, in kinokontsert hall ... But certain deprivation old man underwent yet: near the cave incredibly nasty wind blowing, and yet there is damp.
After overcoming two or three bridges, we leave to the real alpine meadows.
As I started to cover the MBC. Probably on the rise I picked up a little cold air, but did not attach any special meaning. When Cyril handed out pills from "altitude sickness" (diuretic), I am proud of them refused - self-will.
Climb up to the base camp of Annapurna seemed very strange. The slow, long, flat, without ladders or steps. The air is rarified: it becomes more difficult to move your feet. Everything seems to be small and intimate. And then you realize that there are bright spots - it's people. So, the height of the pebbles on the left of the road - 5-6 meters. All comparable. Just ... people invisible at these scales. The helicopter, which flew low-low, seemed bright red child's toy.
However - we did it! 4130 meters, no connection, only stones, sun and snow.
ABC
Annapurna Base Camp consists of a three lodge with blue roofs. There are no sprawling gardens with cabbage, all the products and bring gas porters. Climbers can stay here and can go even further, to construct "advanced" camp closer to the place from whence will begin summit attempt. We have also planned a small storm - sally up, again, for acclimatization.
50 meters above the camp revealed flat as a saucer, glade. On it and around it - the mass of the pyramids with a memorial boards. Someone piled stones of words (Rena, love, etc.). Suddenly find that annoying. That's really what was the last track from the very beginning! It's just ... It's so ironic: up here, understand that hangs over you as much again, to realize just how small you are and how much they are - the mountains - huge ... And then all that one can say is, "Victor + Kate = Love" ? For this he stomped upstairs two weeks?
I put a stone on a pyramid of one of their favorite climbers - Basque Iñaki Ochoa. The experienced athlete and vsehny friend died in 2008 on Annapurna. Turn around - and that's doing this picture. It is an illustration to Lovecraft: little men with funny legs in funny hats pictures of something - and then the clouds to dissipate, exposing the second side of the relic of some monster, a monster that is now asleep, then wake up out of the blue can, and then ... But the veil clouds again converge, and the monster is drowning in lactic haze, leaving the men alone with their thoughts and concerns. With "Victor and I" and "Masha", inlaid stones at an altitude of about 4300 meters.
Up to the top I did not get up. First, taut skin on the face. Later on it started to run noticeably spine. Then - it was this that caused the stop - tremors spread to the arms and legs began to feel dizzy.
Going down was more difficult than the climb: the whole earth under their feet covered with dry grass. Over the bumps do not see where you put the leg. A couple of times knew that under his foot - a pit.
Under the adjacent Loggia found dwelling pikas. One of these fellows we met at the approach to the camp. First froze when he saw something 15-20 centimeters in length. The animal tried to squeeze his fat body into the hole - but there he was given to understand who crowded shelter, and it is necessary to take refuge in the folds of the terrain. The folds of the animal itself and has had enough and has decided it will not run away. It turned out that quite nepugannyh pika - or vice versa, experienced and knows that there is nothing to fear. We shamelessly photographed it almost back to back, talking in a loud voice .. Nothing it does not pronimalo.
In the morning, before dawn, nearly the entire group went to the most daring raid - the sunrise above the base camp. For 30-40 minutes, slowly, up to about 4300 meters, chose a convenient platform - and waited. The sun lit up the valley, but there was a black spot Machapuchare, blocked the Annapurna. But now, finally, the rays have passed for a comb ...
Going down was harder than climbing: ice, connecting the stone medley, melted, and formed puddles underfoot and sypuha - in general, the fact that we all love so much.
It remained to begin the descent. The main objective of the campaign was achieved. We were able to. We had to give way to those who have glade-saucer and the dawn of the camp is yet to come.
The road back
After the ABC we were literally running down. On the day we were walking distance to overcome on the way there in two days. It was not tiring - on the contrary, we are finally moving in the usual pace and came to the place of accommodation is not obscenely early and on time - 5-6 hours.
In general, the road went down. The only difficulty was that we remembered how and where it was easy to go down, we have imagined through what we have to go through to get to the chomrongovskih rolls. Dry alpine meadows left behind, we again went to the rainforest, with a palm-sized butterflies, birds bizarre and strange colors. Around us all again babbling, singing and deafening chatter. Again, you can shamelessly talk to fellow travelers "namaste." Inexorable march ended.
But there was still time to take pictures hand-drawn maps (they are in every lodge). The main principle of the compiler maps - draw as many exotic animals. Barking deer? Yes please! Asiatic black bear? Right next to the snow leopard! And tigers, tigers more - tourists love tigers.
Another joke - the size of a key fob keys. It increases as you ascend. If the key fob in Kathmandu was the length of a finger, then it was a wooden Sinuve big fish longer than the palm. We joked that at the base camp, together with the key will give us the door. But, as it turned out, it was a vile slander: a key and its support in the ABC were even lower than in the Himalaya.
On the last day of a campaign Sasha asked if we do not regret that the campaign is over. I cheerfully said no - he was, and that's good, now we have to put the next target. And so, on the way to Pokhara, I realized - I want it back! Recruit 1,200 meters in 1000 and losing the endless stairs, brush your teeth in the company of a giant hairy moth, look at the "fish tail", painfully acute in the early morning light, to move across the icy river, roam across the field, saucer, peer into the distorted perspective Tent peak (somewhere out there put their advanced Chinese mountaineers camp) ... tighten the Himalayas. This is the place, which clears the head. They help to understand what you're made of and what you can.
Sweet tasty dopa!
Dependence of the price simply boiled rice (plain rice) on the height (price of rice was taken from the menu of each lodge, where we stayed)
To reach the base camp and really enjoy the process, it is necessary to prepare. Enough to squat in the mornings and in the evenings, starting, for example, with 10 sit-ups and gradually increasing their number. At first I was added to one crouching every week. When I realized that it was too easy, was to add 1 to 3 days. Shortly before the trip - just 5 or 10. The main thing here is not ruptured himself and knees to adapt to what they have to.
In addition to sit-ups, my program included:
run - 1 hour 3-4 times a week;
Pool - 2 times a week.
Olga Pugach, Moscow
We were lucky - really luggage arrived at 23:00. Happy, we grabbed our backpacks and rushed to the hotel to sleep off the road to Pokhara. Journey really began.
By White Stupa
The road to Pokhara takes 8 hours. If a marathon of running, swimming and cycling track called "Iron Man» (Iron Man), a marathon of eight hours on a bus can be called the "Iron ass." Sleep - it is terrible. Bye. Very quickly you forget that the country's right-hand traffic. If has managed to take the first seat, then wake up, see how at you at full speed rushes truck. Is not alone. So do not sleep and look out the window. On the sides - housing made of cardboard and sticks, kids, animals, brisk trade.
On billboards in almost all individuals belong to the Indian actors. Europeans are less, but they also have. The main thing - all the whites. But almost everyone who moves down the street on foot - a very dark-skinned.
Local feature - advertising, which is drawn on the walls. Special demand of beer San Miguel.
A bit of movement. The most popular recognizable brands of cars - Indian Tata and Mahindra. Trucks and buses are covered with plaques with inscriptions in Sanskrit, garlands, flowers, pictures blue-skinned gods ... When braking pads do not squeak and crackle. Part of city buses and car looks as though it is moving only because the driver believes that it should move and it really wants. Bibikane anticipates, explains and excuses any maneuver.
In short, the ride so, in such transport and on such roads, not believing in rebirth is simply unrealistic. Therefore, the main religion of Nepal - Buddhism. He's here and drive, and live help.
Finally we come to the place. Pokhara - a much more clean, quiet and small town. It stands on the shores of Lake Phewa. Hence it runs up the bulk of the routes to Annapurna, so a lot of tourists. Quay (Lakeside) serves as a local boardwalk and Thamel: Here are concentrated the main eateries and shops. To us it is no longer relevant, so leave things at the hotel and go to knead feet.
The local population is either initially sees the world differently colored, or trying to paint it in all possible colors. Rent a few tear-eye-what-bright boats on the dock of Lake Phewa, sail to the island. Us it is a temple of Varaha (one of the incarnations of Vishnu), but it is notable not only the temple, but also a bunch of lazy pigeons and even more lazy fat carp. However, their laziness does not apply to food. Feeds can be purchased on the same island, the merchant rattles, fans and postcards with views of the lake.
While voracious carp eats its prey, again loaded into the boat and sail to the other side of the lake. Mooring and start the first climb. No backpacks, but without hiking poles. Limbs at first indignant, but quickly adapted.
White Peace Stupa was built by Buddhist monks of a Japanese Buddhist schools. Construction was given to them is not easy, and it's not just in financing - it just was generous. During the construction of the stupa was killed by one of the monks. Thus extremists wanted to scare Buddhists and prevent them to pursue the case. It did not help - stupa was completed, and at its base, the brothers set up a bust of the deceased.
Remove shoes, climb to the top, and then with the most pious thoughts down on levels stupa clockwise sure! If done correctly, wishes will come true, and will come in the life of happiness, peace and prosperity. Even if not done correctly, Buddhism only peaceable that something will still be good.
Going down, met with buffalo calf. A little later - with his mom. Perhaps she was afraid that we will teach her son's bad, so fussed uselessly. In this case, just outside the vertical jungle paths start to fall into that means to secure a giant slallom with obstacles.
PunHill2 
Travel
Route "Around Annapurna" is quite easy. If you do not set a goal to set a record rate, then it can pass everyone - except perhaps that people with severe arthritis or problems with the musculoskeletal system. Therefore, the route met completely different people.
Mountain View Lodge pleased with a meeting with two elderly hippies. Absolutely charming couple Germans older than 60 years. She - with scarlet lipstick in a flared skirt and embroidered leather boots, he - in almost cowboy boots. On the morning of the gentlemen enthusiastically danced to Parov Stelar Band from the phone. Later, we met them on the route and always welcomed.
But now a day we see the Japanese and Chinese. If you see a person on the road in bright pink tights, a green skirt and with a wooden stick in his hand - it is 100% Japanese. Most often, the person put on underwear, sweater, light jacket, and his face smeared sunscreen and cover some handkerchief. I would be all over this dress fell from heat stroke after about five minutes. And they did go. Scary people. As we beat them at Port Arthur?
About a courtesy call on the route should be discussed separately. Nobody throws his feet. No one leaves garbage anywhere. At a meeting with local people and other trekkers taken hello - you can international hi, but better - Indo-Nepalese "namaste." Gradually generated code politeness than "namaste" going up and are tired.
Champions "namaschenii" - Nepalese children. I can not vouch that they did not agree among themselves who will stretch longer and Poteshnoe his "namaste-ee" (and not just so, and with howls), then listen to how ridiculous we will answer them.
District center
Standard lodge - a pair of small houses or one large structure. Several lodges and adjoining gardens form a full-fledged town. We are constantly going through. On the background of the district center Chomrong enormous. But the main thing - early in the morning Kirill warned us that in Chomrong is delicious pastries. Therefore, 1000 meters of elevation were observed suspiciously easy - all beckoning buns. Not in vain. They were incredibly beautiful - soft, with apples and cinnamon dough out of the air ... I do not like baking. Honestly I do not like and do not eat. But here I could not refuse. 
Speaking of food. Rarely on what the local cuisine has a full plate - usually a gas burner. Sometimes two. In these circumstances, the Nepalese manage to show the wonders of cooking. Apple pie! Danish cinnamon rolls! Buns! Apple roll (cheburek with apples - or, in general space, with melted chocolate "Snickers" or "Mars")! .. No, it's beyond words. We just hit the restaurant, which is baked these wonders. Then had lunch here, a rest - and again collapsed. But while some members of the group took the strategic decision (to take two buns, that was enough for dinner, or three to once and for breakfast?), Wedged between us, a Dane. At a rate which would be the envy diving eagle, he bought a Danish bun, glared at her teeth, cut off and it looks like without chewing, swallowing her rosy side - and ran down.
Relaksiruya in Chomrong, we considered the blue roof of the lodge, where we were to spend the night. The road to it seemed shallow and did not look like a regular ladder 100,500,000 steps.
Climb up to the base camp of Annapurna seemed very strange. The slow, long, flat, without ladders or steps. The air is rarified: it becomes more difficult to move your feet. Everything seems to be small and intimate. And then you realize that there are bright spots - it's people. So, the height of the pebbles on the left of the road - 5-6 meters. All comparable. Just ... people invisible at these scales. The helicopter, which flew low-low, seemed bright red child's toy.
However - we did it! 4130 meters, no connection, only stones, sun and snow.
ABC
Annapurna Base Camp consists of a three lodge with blue roofs. There are no sprawling gardens with cabbage, all the products and bring gas porters. Climbers can stay here and can go even further, to construct "advanced" camp closer to the place from whence will begin summit attempt. We have also planned a small storm - sally up, again, for acclimatization.
50 meters above the camp revealed flat as a saucer, glade. On it and around it - the mass of the pyramids with a memorial boards. Someone piled stones of words (Rena, love, etc.). Suddenly find that annoying. That's really what was the last track from the very beginning! It's just ... It's so ironic: up here, understand that hangs over you as much again, to realize just how small you are and how much they are - the mountains - huge ... And then all that one can say is, "Victor + Kate = Love" ? For this he stomped upstairs two weeks?
I put a stone on a pyramid of one of their favorite climbers - Basque Iñaki Ochoa. The experienced athlete and vsehny friend died in 2008 on Annapurna. Turn around - and that's doing this picture. It is an illustration to Lovecraft: little men with funny legs in funny hats pictures of something - and then the clouds to dissipate, exposing the second side of the relic of some monster, a monster that is now asleep, then wake up out of the blue can, and then ... But the veil clouds again converge, and the monster is drowning in lactic haze, leaving the men alone with their thoughts and concerns. With "Victor and I" and "Masha", inlaid stones at an altitude of about 4300 meters.
Going down was harder than climbing: ice, connecting the stone medley, melted, and formed puddles underfoot and sypuha - in general, the fact that we all love so much.
It remained to begin the descent. The main objective of the campaign was achieved. We were able to. We had to give way to those who have glade-saucer and the dawn of the camp is yet to come.
The road back
After the ABC we were literally running down. On the day we were walking distance to overcome on the way there in two days. It was not tiring - on the contrary, we are finally moving in the usual pace and came to the place of accommodation is not obscenely early and on time - 5-6 hours.
In general, the road went down. The only difficulty was that we remembered how and where it was easy to go down, we have imagined through what we have to go through to get to the chomrongovskih rolls. Dry alpine meadows left behind, we again went to the rainforest, with a palm-sized butterflies, birds bizarre and strange colors. Around us all again babbling, singing and deafening chatter. Again, you can shamelessly talk to fellow travelers "namaste." Inexorable march ended.
But there was still time to take pictures hand-drawn maps (they are in every lodge). The main principle of the compiler maps - draw as many exotic animals. Barking deer? Yes please! Asiatic black bear? Right next to the snow leopard! And tigers, tigers more - tourists love tigers.
Another joke - the size of a key fob keys. It increases as you ascend. If the key fob in Kathmandu was the length of a finger, then it was a wooden Sinuve big fish longer than the palm. We joked that at the base camp, together with the key will give us the door. But, as it turned out, it was a vile slander: a key and its support in the ABC were even lower than in the Himalaya.