Amphitheater of white rock

report on a hike on foot Montenegro "Prokletije Durmitor" in August 2011.

I am writing this story almost a year after the campaign, but I have conquered this country, the impressions are still fresh, and I only regret that it was still a good idea to add a couple of days for a march.

Actually, I wanted to get to Montenegro for a long time, and that's somehow not attracted to the beach vacation. And as it turns out, is true not drawn - because of the incredible heat wave in late August, the beach is enough for half a day or two. How can you melt in the sun indefinitely, dreamily watching the bathers and involuntarily listening to the conversations of other people in your own language (even in Russian, at least in Ukrainian)? Beginning of the journey was promising. Flight delayed for several hours - and all this time we have seen the vanity of the window around the aircraft with the inscription Windrose and thought-fly will not fly, and how soon, and eventually boarded the plane Donbassaero. The flight went well, there was no turbulence, the food was edible and fun decorated, and the flight was detained only because kazahskih tourists, which was polsamoleta.
">

Continued followed the arrival in Tivat. We missed a backpack with the important things - a tent and eating! But that's still a belief that Seregin backpack back from Antalya and our journey will take place as planned (Sergei, it was a sign-in there the Turkish mountains, you have not been!).
">

That's what struck me in Budva at first glance (no, not the Adriatic Sea), it's deja vu in the Crimea. You arrive at the bus station, and there you are waiting for brokers and owners who want to take shelter - well, everything, as we do, then you and the embellishment of the subject transaction, and assurances that the sea lapping at the door straight, and bargaining is also relevant. The difference is in the details: the prices sounded the euro (although it may be in the Crimea is also the currency goes, have not been), and the language of a still not ours. With regard to the language barrier, on the coast of the impression that he was gone, and in general, their language well, very similar to us, and our all, even billboards in Russian. But it is by the sea. But should drive off away, and it becomes clear that nothing is clear except for some words.
">

Because plans had to wait a backpack and adjust the next day was for the cultural program. Very picturesque Bay of Kotor, the ancient fortress on a hilltop with stunning views over the town and the bay, a tiny fly Perast with 2 islands in the middle of the bay (one of which we visited) and a narrow strip of beach (probably large in Montenegro and did not happen).

The next day he returned the backpack, so for dinner you can go to the purpose of the trip, that is, to the mountains. Although the country of Montenegro is small, transfers take a long time due to road-serpentine.

Budva left at one o'clock, and we had a start at 22:00 of the Goose. Yes, start, and not hang up! The night was so clear that the flashlight does not require, and the road though and dirt, but the asphalt has led us to a different parking lot, where he spent the night.

And what a story was revealed to us in the morning! Front and sides of alternating green and white teeth, the mountains - of course it had to capture, and more than once. After the exit fees and found that the valley called Grbaya we have not yet arrived, but because people in this country are good, so the villagers have been planted with the breeze on the tractor up to this very valley, and from there began the way up through the woods toward Albania.
">

Border in the wrong place, we were not going to go - well, look from a height. And is this whole area Prokletije, although it is nothing to do with emerging associations. I do not know if we stepped foot on the territory of Albania, but Karanfily that gradually occur when lifting shake its greatness: a warm wind, almost knocking down the one hand a green valley with blueberries (which slows down eating our way), wide clusters of stones after rockfalls, and the other gap, followed by white cliffs, probably impassable, and a narrow trail along the crest of a green hill, on which we were (in the pictures so apparent maalenkim mound).

This day was not physically difficult, has been thought that all such travel will be Free of tension, well, that's just a little too hot, and the springs a little.

The next day was completely different. For some reason we decide that there is no need to haul a lot of liters of water during the ascent from the opposite side of the valley, the more they can see the little forest and hence will tenechek can draw and a spring.
">

As we were wrong! This rise was distinguished by an almost complete absence of horizontal sections which tenechek - roasted in full sun!, Water threatened to end during the first third of the recovery. But! Here, saw things very differently - Grbaya Valley, at a glance (with backpacks, hidden in the bushes), and on the other side of the saddle another valley (Ropoyana), which opens during the rise of white stone circus, which has its own rock-echo, and even snow (and this is the end of August), huge boulders, which must wade through to see what the other side.

In general, after Prokletije the impression that many have not seen - will be an occasion to go back again.

After descending the way back again, spending the night on the road, yield to the dawn of a goose, again neskolkochasovoy drive to Zabljak, and the path of white water rafting on the river Tara, from which we have been waiting more extreme, but it was not scary, but the Catalans, who were with us in the boat all the time and prevented galdeli perceive the surrounding beauty.
">

Do you like camping under Zhablyakom - clean and cozy somehow.

The next target was an array of Durmitor. If Prokletije not known, everyone knows about the Durmitor and Zhablyak - tourist center in the region, for both winter and summer. The first item on the program were listed Black Lake, which is actually not dark, but bright blue and so calm.
">

Because of the heat very much like to swim, but since we do not know how much all the upgrades will take time, just walked him around and headed for the woods, through which came out in Lokvitse (such Dolinka of parched small lake in the center).
">

The road has not been severe, especially if you can eat raspberries and strawberries. This is similar to the green valley of the amphitheater around the towering white cliffs, and it seems that they are silent and watching us (there is no wind at all, just hear the bleating flocks of sheep and the tinkling of bells). Idyll in general. Interestingly, this amphitheater for another, then another and another ...

The next day was devoted to raising the highest peak of Montenegro Bobotov Cook and at the same time visit the Ice Cave. At first, nothing distracted from looking around and photographing ochumitelnyh species on the trail winds are not very steep slopes, it is a pleasure to walk. Then this trail was replaced by a sypuhoy (when you need to look at his feet, and insured with sticks), the stone of chaos (which sometimes had to crawl on all fours, or legs above the ears perk).


The last few hundred meters to the saddle consisted of a shallow sloped sypuhi 50 degrees. How beautiful it all looked and photographed from a distance, and how long this road appeared which seemed a couple of miles!

From the saddle opened funky view of the neighboring valley, but our goal was still to come. Well who knew that the last 50 meters to Bobotova Cook will have to climb, clinging with all four limbs (two additional limbs in the form of sticks only prevented), sometimes clinging to the whole body stenochke rock ledge with a width of the foot in width. But it was worth it! It seems that you are on top of the rock (a lot of people just will not fit), but quite far away and Zhablyak clear and the lake and the stone amphitheaters Shkrchko with the green valleys below. Stunning! And so you do not want to leave, but want to soak up all of discovering beauty! (Those who are afraid of heights, most importantly do not think that remains to be going down). But the helicopters from the tops of people do not take off, so go down a long and slow.


After sypuhi and stone, and chaos can accelerate time to see the Ice cave. It is cold all year round does not change the temperature and all sorts of ice formation. We returned to camp in the dark tired and full of impressions. The next day, I confess, I still felt drawn to the sea, so I went back to Zabljak, and from there to Budva, and the boys continued on their way over mountains and through the day, they were also in Budva.


If you compile all of the above, then a trip to Montenegro included everything: the cultural program, and travel through almost the entire country, and so many different physical activities, and surprise and delight, which is still a beautiful country of Montenegro.

Cyril, thank you, that does not stop there, and looking new for ourselves and our routes and are not afraid to take hikes in the experimental amateur walkers.

A doubting whether or not to go far away I say: Fear not, little domestic inconvenience, and physical activity - it's all temporary, but an unforgettable experience (as well as photos and videos) will remain forever and will never replace watching television on one's travels . Those who have already visited Turkey, Nepal, I understand.

Light.
Sumi 2011-2012.