One trek - four countries (Montenegro, Albania, Bosnia-Herze

Report from the shopping Prokletije Durmitor in Montenegro August 26 - September 9, 2012. Author: Kirill Yasko. Rating: 5 This was our second trek of Montenegro. Thanks to the last time the exploration, we managed to avoid many of the difficulties and save a lot of time, which was immediately used to explore new parts of the route, and even new countries. As a result, we've been not only in the mountains of Montenegro, but also crossed the border well walked on the wild corners of Albania, ride a raft in Bosnia-Herzegovina, and at the end of the day looked Croatia (Dubrovnik looked). And most importantly, the group met a very friendly and positive - with a company of any route blooming with new colors.

In this campaign of Montenegro, as in most other "long-distance" stranistvy, I conducted online reporting - got on the phone and the internet daily published in social networks (in our groups FaceBook ,

27-08-2013. On the way to Prokletije breakfast at a roadside restaurant with a shy cook (disappeared from the camera) and stunningly familiar paintings on the walls.

After unbearably hot Budva cool Prokletije seemed to us a heavenly resort. we will gladly (knowingly dragged) pulled on jackets and pants and went on Radialka Volushnitsu.

If only you knew how happy the heart of the instructor when a group sigh in admiration at the sight with the next pass. The top Volushnitsy Prokletije in just such a place. In order not to spoil your impression in the photo is given a very different place (valley Grbaya).

27-08-2013. On the ridge we were crawling in Karanfily of Polish tourists who Poston lost its participants. Here we were overtaken by two Montenegrin rescuers. As far as we knew they were looking for some lost tourist. And yesterday, someone even welled up from the rock. In short, abruptly lost all perehotelos.

Finally we found a local English-language and he explained what's going on. It turns out the day before yesterday morning, when we drove up to the Accursed Mountains (what do you think? Same Prokletije) on the route to the summit Karanfil death broke two Polish tourists - a father and son. The second son was still alive (only broke his arm), and call for help (which is surprising, given the heinous cover for Mobile Communications). The working version of the state of emergency is uncomplicated - covered with cloud, huddled trails, slipped on wet rocks. We understand those two rescuers carried upstairs water and food for the remaining top (why!?) Surviving son. Is the body of his father and brother were not able to pull down? Yesterday the valley several times shuttled helicopter. Probably could not get closer because of too steep slopes. Yesterday we were only 300 meters away from the danger zone ... but decided not to go to the top because of lack of time.

A little more tickling the nerves details about another Events in Prokletije. It turns out the missing Italians are looking for 20 days. At first, we did not attach any importance to this, but then remembered that it was returning to the camp with the most complex Radialka Ochnyak around the mountain, we heard in the woods distinct smell of corpses. It was only a kilometer away from the road on a very unpleasant traverse. To fly there from the trail would be easy. Especially after a long descent on the rocks ... In general, today we will try to find any representative of the authorities to inform them of their guesses.

28-08-2013. Our new parking lot met with a large Albanian family. Two sisters (Albanian women from Albania) married two brothers (Albanians of Montenegro). Now live here, in the Prokletije, are engaged in raising sheep. All the summer living in an abandoned frontier Ropoyana over the valley, and in the winter goose down (the regional center). They say that last winter in the village piled 5 feet of snow that have no gas - stoked with wood, that the children are taught in school 4 languages ​​(Serbian, Albanian, English and French), what can I do not to drink tea and coffee only. in the evening the whole family came to our fire and we continued to talk about the rules of grazing sheep and everything else.

In order for our absence (in Radialka) cows ate a drying clothes clothesline we draw 3 meters above the ground.

29-08-2013. The last two days have dinner exclusively local bread with fresh goat cheese and milk (buy the shepherds). of such food, oddly enough, jumping, group average, significantly improved.

30-08-2013. Yesterday we went to Radialka in Albania. Wild country, I want to tell you. Neither men nor beasts. Huge raspberries are intact - there is simply no berries (well, except for us of course). Still there are many snowfields and there's no water, firewood and shops. How to survive a poor tourist?

Home "horror story" of the day - 2030m pass was easily taken in less than 2:00. We relaxed, not realizing that the real test is yet to come - in the middle of the descent much of the trail was swept away by the recent landslide. We had to double-cross the 50 meter wide zone of erosion, where the stones have not ulezhalis and even a half-ton boulders easily shifted by the weight of the person. Over the one and a half hours, I did not make a single frame.

After a tiring day of swimming in the lake is an accomplishment. But Savino eye - not an easy lake, and the "output" of the underground river. The water temperature is about 6 degrees here, and instead of one of the corners - the bottomless depths of the tunnel in a karst kingdom. By no means all decided to swim today.

Somehow I forgot to write about the most important. In Albania, the burning of the forest, and for a long time, and the air is saturated with smoke over Prokletije looked like a fairly transparent environment that I have seen in India. In the morning dense haze clouds the mountains a hard working photographers.

01-09-2013. The photo depicts the famous "General Paxon" (the driver of our vans). He became famous when he composed the motto of our campaign - "Problems? Ha ha." This wonderful in its power and simplicity of the phrase he uttered skipping at full speed between the oncoming truck and incidental "brake"-rider on a narrow mountain road. Now any difficulties on the route we meet with a loud "ha-ha" and without slowing prem ahead.

02-09-2013. We're in the Durmitor. Black Lake is surprisingly deserted today (and in fact the output). Only national park ranger dejectedly walks along the beach in the hope someone vparit entrance tickets.

In the evening we were going to go to the top Terzin Bogas. but on the way to the top we met a Russian group, the instructor which so diligently bullied us Southern Horse riding (nearby peak) that we could not go to that "crest of terror." Do not worry, this is normal peak, the weather is good nothing serious.

On the trail met two park rangers with shoulder-knapsacks sprayers. summer was very dry, everything has dried, the leaves of all turn yellow and fall, the grass ignited by the slightest spark. as long as the sky is clear, there is no veil of smoke in Prokletije, but that could change at any moment. I am glad that by Thursday promised rain and nature has a good chance of rescue.

Over dinner in our camp rolled (or rather slid on sypuhe on the fifth point) cute girl Dasha from Peter. She:-traveling alone, constantly losing the trail-in Durmitor is the second time, living in a hut with shepherds, does not carry a flashlight, extremely optimistic about the mirDashin visit and her style single journey has caused heated discussion in the group. Dasha explained that it was unable to find travel companions, but it seemed to us that not very much of it and was looking for. While all this does not matter - if you count their forces and not look for trouble, and that tourism is not a single madness.

03-09-2013. Durmitor is also beginning to becloud the smoke of fires. In the photo removed in the morning, barely noticeable smoke - white column, right behind Thani (in orange). By evening, he Zavoloko the valley (the valley huge) - the stars are almost invisible, night photography is not possible: ( and yesterday we have a zvezdaty taymlapsik nafotkal - upload :)

Ice cave called wild delight of our photographers. All the rest are just not crawled to the icy stalactites, as were not sufficiently motivated to overcome the steep icy slope. Last year, the summer was cooler and ice instead of the alloy on the descent were comfortable snow level. Now we even hung a piece of rope to a painless leave the cave

The group unanimously carried the Bobotov Cook (the highest mountain in Montenegro) to poluochkovoy grade. Unlike yesterday that pulled the top of the South by as much as two "points." Translated into Russian language, this means "not Stash features as he is painted."

At the 10 participants of the tour we have 3 and 5 vegetarianism smokers. And these subsets intersect. This here is such a coincidence. In the photo fragment of our marching lunch.

04-09-2013. Afternoon conversation (on the pass Samar) turned to any extreme sports. Roupdzhamping, sleklayn, just climbing. A strange conversation - funny but sad, I can not even utter. I'll show you a better picture - a view of Bobotov Cook from the pass of triple previews. Now the Treaty and climbed down. There are just 10 meters will have to crawl. Extreme :)

Participants hike begged me to write about today's dinner. You have already realized that the gastronomic theme every day becomes more and more important. So for dinner were makaroshki. And I do not know why (maybe it in yesterday's dinner, which consisted of boiled wheat grains), but it was a sensation. We ate it all, the poor were hungry hedgehogs. In the photo - the valley of Lake Shkrchko, the one where we cooked makaroshki.

05-09-2013. Storming the forehead Planinnitsa Pass (2330m). Tourists asked me to say hello to the family and to write something about the "foot-pads, swallowing dust, crawling on all fours and murderous thoughts." In short, the mood battle, we will make it (the pass). Some are even going there to dance.

of sinkholes with half-dry puddle unexpectedly large crowd emerged mountain goats (wild). we were able to freeze in place and slowly removed the binoculars ... yet it is the largest neodomashennye little animals in this campaign. before that, we met a snake, giant toads, partridge and fox.

Chrvena Grad (Red Ridge) - the last obstacle in our path. We met him with mixed feelings. On the one hand, all are very tired (even the instructor began to "creak") and want to get it over with all sorts of tests. On the other - a campaign to be so interesting, and staff amicable and sociable that the approaching finals would be nice to push and ... In the photo - Gal sits on the edge of the plateau Chrvena Grad, and I (over) read her a lecture about the inadmissibility of undue risk as sveshivaniya feet off a cliff.

06-09-2013. In the photo the dream of many men - a lot of beer. rather it is a lake or reservoir, formed after the construction of the dam and hydroelectric power station on the river Piva. and nazyvetsya - Piva reservoir. the word "pivohranilische" they did not have the courage :)

The geography of our travel is expanding rapidly. Today in Montenegro and Albania, Bosnia-Herzegovina was added. We landed on its shores in the white water rafting on the Tara River canyon. By the way, this year we have found a better (affluent, rapids, picturesque) plot for the alloy than in 2011, and the pleasure of a swim was enough.

on the way from the mountains to the sea, we stopped at the monastery of Ostrog. We climbed the hill to the monastery vans, and along the road, on gravel, walked barefoot pilgrims and imagine I'm a little jealous of them. You say it's stupid, but not foolish to be dragged into the mountains with a backpack? After this visit, I once again realized that to attractions need to prepare in advance. read some legends, excerpts from historical records, something inspiring. Jail for legendary place and megaprivlekatelnoe, but not for us, but for balkantsev Christians, and getting there without pre-washing of brains we can not taste the Jail to the fullest. We see a close with dim cave frescoes, while millions of people come here for a miracle (healing, enlightenment, understanding).

07-09-2013. Not wanting to stop there (meaning the number of countries visited per trip), we again hired a van and went for a day in Croatia, more precisely in Dubrovnik. Visa is not needed until there is enough to have a passport, a swimsuit and a camera :)

I can not say that Dubrovnik is fundamentally different from Montenegro Kotor, Budva and other Mediterranean cities and fortresses. Much is familiar, but there are new experiences. In particular, a very, very pleased circular walk along the city walls. It's kind of a new perspective, a glimpse into the yards and windows, to "fly" over the city.

At the top station of the cable car in Dubrovnik is an interesting collection of photos. First, the construction of a cable car at the 60th, then the total destruction by bombing in 91-92, and the recovery in 2010. It is strange and scary to realize that just recently here on the site of the tourist maelstrom of war was in full swing.

07-09-2013. I'm in the Bay of Kotor is the second time, but only now, after a hike in Norway, I really found it, "the southernmost fjord in Europe."

On the way to the island of St. Nepomnyukogo (pictured) steering our boats do not forget to mention znamentostyah (it seems M.Duglas and K.Z.Dzhons) having bought a house on the waterfront of Perast. Even a very indirect neighborhood significantly improves the status of the city, the bay, the boats in the bay, steering, passengers (us), and even this blog. That's why I'm writing about all this :)