Traveling "light"
This compilation, compiled from various sources, briefly explains the philosophy, principles and some aspects of traveling with minimal load (weight), and also touches on the topic of ultra-light gear and equipment.
Introduction, terms
Hiking is a long journey on foot (usually done for personal pleasure and not for sporting purposes). Of the Russian words, the word “campaign” is best suited.
Hiker – hiker, tourist.
Backpack is a back bag with straps, that is, a backpack in our opinion.
Backpacking - (long) walking trip with a backpack, hiking with a backpack.
Ultralight – ultra-light.
Lightweight - light (in the sense of weight).
(Ultra)light Backpacking, (Ultra)light Hiking - a long walking trip with a minimum total weight of everything taken on this trip.
(Ultra)light Gear – (ultra) light equipment.
Base pack weight - the weight of everything you carry, excluding water, food and fuel (i.e. consumables).
Silnylon is a rip-stop weave fabric impregnated with silicone, density 28 g/m. sq. Soda/Pepsi Can Stove – a homemade stove made from an aluminum soda/pepsi can.
Pound – pound = 0.454 kg. (abbr. - lb.)
Ounce – ounce = 28.35 gr. (abbr. - oz.)
Philosophy, principles
This concept is not new; many people have been using it for a long time. And who hasn’t thought about how to take less things and equipment on a hike - after all, you have to carry it all on your shoulders. A legend among American hikers was Emma “Grandma” Gatewood, who at age 67 completed the Appalachian Trail (a 3,500-km trek across the eastern United States http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Appalachian_Trail).
And then I went through it again and again and again. However, she always traveled alone, without tents, sleeping bags, backpacks, maps or hiking boots. She preferred tennis shoes and wore out five pairs of them. In her homemade bag she took: a sweater, a jacket, a scarf, a light woolen jacket for sleeping, a plastic curtain for the bathroom as an awning, two plastic water bottles, a rain hat, a raincoat, a flashlight, a Swiss army knife, a teaspoon, a small mug, matches, a band-aid, an antiseptic, pins, hairpins, threads, needles, soap, a towel.
In the modern sense, I would reduce the concept of (Ultra)light Hiking/Backpacking to one principle: “Minimum weight without compromising safety and a minimum level of convenience.” Plus two main ways to achieve this.
The first is to minimize the list of things (clothing, equipment, food, medicine, shelter, etc.) that you take with you on your trip.
Don't take what you MAY need - only what is necessary. Remove (unfasten) all pieces of equipment and clothing that will not be used.
The second is to use only the lightest, smallest, most packable, reliable and multifunctional.
This point also applies to your body - you will be the one carrying a couple of extra pounds of fat. At the same time, reducing the weight of one element of equipment can affect the choice of remaining equipment as follows:
for example, the less weight we put in a backpack, the less bulky and heavy a backpack we will need, and this will lead to the fact that shoes designed for heavy weight can be replaced with lighter ones. Everything ingenious is simple.
Naturally, everyone’s needs for comfort are different, and safety requirements depend primarily (as I think) on the complexity of the route and experience. Therefore, I think there is no need to blindly follow the numbers given on many resources. So, what numbers are we talking about? Of course about weight.
Depending on the so-called Base pack weight, the hike (by weight) can be classified as follows:
- Less than 12 lbs (5.5 kg) - ultralight,
- 12 - 20 lbs (5.5 - 9 kg)¬¬¬ - lightweight,
- 20 - 30 lbs (9 - 14 kg) - regular
- more than 30 lbs (14 kg) - “You are really strong, or stupid, or both.”
To begin with, you can focus on the following figure - the weight of everything you carry on you should not exceed 20 - 25% of your weight, including water, food, fuel.
For example, for a woman weighing 55 kg, 25% will be about 14 kg for everything. If this includes 2 liters. water (2 kg) and food for 4 days (2.8 kg), then there is about 9-10 kg left for everything else (i.e. we end up in lightweight). Although this principle is not universal: 20% for 100 kg. men give 20 kg, and for 55 kg women - 11 kg. As always, the most difficult thing is to maintain a balance between what you want and what you need to take with you.
Advantages of Ultralight Hiking/Backpacking
Using this concept you can:
- enjoy the journey more - after all, that’s why you set out on it;
- travel further - cover a greater distance per day;
- move faster;
- get tired less;
- protect your knees and back from diseases associated with their overload;
- lighten your feet - use lighter boots and be more maneuverable.
In addition, you save money, since most ultralight equipment and clothing are cheaper than classic ones. The main exception is sleeping bags, which are more expensive than regular ones.
Psychological attitude
The idea is that we don't want anything too big. We want only what we need and no more. “Less” does not mean a lack of something, but just self-restraint. Those. we must proceed from the principle of self-sufficiency. A traveler who constantly borrows equipment, food, water, fuel is not a traveler, but a parasite on the body of the tourist community. Of course, there are situations when you need to share, but the main goal of such a traveler is to have everything he needs with him, since in some areas you may not meet anyone for several days or weeks. This makes self-sufficiency a must.
Your body is no exception when it comes to overall weight loss. You should also be determined to reduce your weight - remove all the excess - more muscle to work and less fat to carry.
And under no circumstances should you gain weight before going on a hike, hoping to use these “reserves” along the way.
Reality and experience
In life you cannot foresee everything. Bad weather or climate, or the need for a special diet can increase the weight of the backpack. It is best to try out the principles of (Ultra)light Hiking/Backpacking on a short route with a few overnight stays before embarking on a long route. Some subtleties and problems become visible only a few days after release. And traveling in good weather is not the most reliable way to test your approach. Your preparation must be tested in the worst conditions that can be encountered on a real route. Set up the awning, check the covers and shelters before setting out on the route.
Be careful when taking children, animals and inexperienced and elderly people with you. Let no one tell you what you need and what you don’t. Decide for yourself. And one more thing. Everything comes with experience. With each trip, you will understand better and better what you need and don’t need to take with you, how to use this or that thing. No one can tell you what exactly you need.
This is a constant process of searching for the optimal minimum!
Equipment preferences
Reducing the weight of modern equipment and clothing has occurred thanks to new fabrics and designs. Thinking outside the box is the way to generate thousands of new ideas.
Using silnylon for shelters, awnings, duffel bags, backpack covers and rain covers can reduce the weight by half compared to conventional items. True, you have to be especially careful with it when cooking and working with a needle, but the result is impressive.
Microfleece, silk, polyester and nylon have replaced cotton and thick man-made fibers. The result is more versatile, lightweight and quick-drying clothing.
Multi-purpose equipment eliminates duplication. But this is where you need to think before you compromise your health or safety. You shouldn’t trust a poncho, which serves as a raincoat, a cover for a backpack, and the main shelter. As a loose rain cover, it is no better than a light jacket. Water may drip and run down your arms when using a poncho with trekking poles.
Taking off and using your rain jacket as cover in cold and rainy weather is a bad idea. In this weather, it is very important to stay dry and warm, and clothing that protects from rain can serve as a very effective windbreak, maintaining a layer of air heated by the body. And removing this important layer at the end of the day in order to organize a shelter for the night requires special consideration and verification.
However, very experienced hikers use this system. In summer, in the desert or on short routes, this approach can be successfully used.
Vital equipment should not be used in two ways. If you put on a rain poncho and at the same time covered your backpack with it, then you can no longer take off your backpack and cover it with this poncho - you need something to protect yourself from the rain. It’s the same with a shelter - if the temperature has dropped and you need a poncho to keep warm, then you won’t be able to take it off and make a shelter out of it. If you decide to replace a heavy backpack, a Gore-Tex jacket and a 3-season tent with one universal item - “a poncho-tent-cape for a backpack”, then even though you will save about 2 kg. This approach must be carefully considered from various points of view. In this case, your backpack should always be with you. If during the rain you installed a shelter from such a universal thing, then you no longer have anything to cover yourself with to go “big” or “small”.
Partners
You can save on some things if you are not traveling alone. But we must not forget about the following.
If your partner decides to turn off halfway home, will you be able to continue the journey yourself? This is especially true for shelters and sleeping systems. No matter how much you trust your partner, it may happen that you will be separated for a couple of days. So you have to have something to hide under. During the trip, it may turn out that your partner needs more space under cover, this must be taken into account. You can solve this issue with the help of a poncho, attaching it to the awning as a vestibule. However, if it rains in the morning when you need to get ready for the trip, this can lead to inconvenience, since your poncho is part of your shelter.
Some couples sleep together in the same sleeping bag. However, if you are tossing and turning all night and trying to push your partner out of the sleeping bag, then it is better to take a sleeping bag for each of you.
About the food. Some people prepare breakfast every morning without any problems. For others, washing the bowl is a big problem - they would rather sleep an extra half hour and eat a Snickers before heading out on the route. Some stop and cook along the route during the day. If you have different preferences in what and when to eat, then it is better for everyone to take their own food and cooking stove.
Well, now let’s begin to actually consider the equipment for these purposes.
Backpacks, bags
Start by cutting off excess straps and watch as inches of fabric turn into grams of weight saved. Then think about the total volume of the backpack or bag, especially if they are made of dense and heavy fabric. By choosing the size to suit your needs, you will save 50 - 100 grams.
Backpacks made entirely from rip-stop fabric can significantly help reduce overall weight. For external pockets for water, raincoats, and capes, you can use a mesh. It is better to use backpacks with a weight belt, as food for a week plus water can easily bring the weight of your luggage up to 16 kg.
Plastic capes and garbage bags also come in handy to protect food and sleeping bags from water.
Breeze is a classic ultra-light backpack weighing 400 g. and mesh pockets. These pockets are convenient for storing all sorts of wet things and water bottles. One trick is to roll your sleeping pad into a cylinder and insert it vertically into your backpack. And then, fold everything else inside the resulting cylinder.
There are two main ways to protect the contents of your backpack from precipitation. The first is to put a waterproof cape on the backpack, the second is to put a garbage bag inside the backpack. The dry set of clothes and sleeping bag should have their own waterproof bags/packs. Here are a couple more examples:
http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/p1.jpg - about 700 gr.,
http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/g4.jpg - 450 gr.
Choosing an ultra-light backpack is not difficult - just choose proven models, and not those that have just entered the market. To carry more weight, you need a backpack with a frame and a weight belt. These 3 models
http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/vaportrail.jpg
http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/p2.jpg
http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/ghost.jpg
are designed for a load of about 14 kg and weigh 2-2.5 kg.
And any ultra-light backpack is as much as 2.5 kg lighter than a classic one and noticeably cheaper.
Shelters
Shelters should protect you during your rest from precipitation, crawling and flying insects, wet and cold ground, and condensation.
Awnings made of waterproof fabric without a bottom (Tarps)
It has no gender. Its advantages: arbitrary tilt, large coverage area per unit weight. Since there is no floor, the animals inside will have nothing to tear with their claws, the fuel from the tile will not burn it, it can be installed on an uneven surface. But you need to be careful when choosing a place so that water does not flow onto the place where you sleep - you can install an awning in a place with a slope. Such an awning is usually installed using trekking poles and guy ropes.
http://www.trailquest.net/dlgctacomatarp.html
http://www.trailquest.net/dlgctarps.html
http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/tarptent.jpg - 650 gr.
They have a rain cover, fine mesh to keep out insects and adequate ventilation. The floor is a separate element and insulates from wet ground and insects in the grass.
Tents and Shelters
These are homemade tents
http://www.trailquest.net/dlgctactent2.html - double
http://www.trailquest.net/dlgctactentsolo.html - single seat, weight 560 g.
Some people believe that it is better to spend money on a heavier tent than to make a homemade one. If you have a long trip ahead, then it is better to spend it on such an ultra-light tent - this will save weight and money spent during the trip itself.
Ultra-light awnings and tents are lighter in weight than double-layer tents weighing 2 kg or more.
Wigwams (Teepees)
http://www.trailquest.net/BRteepee.html - made of silnylon, weight about 1.2 kg.
Hammocks
They are designed for a single traveler and are not very suitable for cold weather http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/hammock.jpg. There should be enough trees in the area where the route passes so that there is something to tie the hammock to. The hammock can also be used in temporary parking lots as a bivouac bag. If you only have a hammock and no tent, it can be quite difficult to prepare food in bad weather. On the other hand, in a hammock you do not need sleeping mats, and stones and water flowing on the ground will not disturb you. Typically weighs from 0.7 to 1.1 kg. The most widely used hammock system is the Hennessy Hammock.
Bivvy bags (Bivy)
A bivouac bag can be used as additional protection for a sleeping bag from rain or cold. They are rarely used as independent shelter.
Ground cloths
Such coverings are occasionally needed for awnings (without a bottom).
When choosing them, make sure that they are slightly smaller than the area of the tent floor, so that water flowing down the canvas does not fall on them.
Those who use hammocks usually also need something to put things on under the hammock. This could be a plastic bag. Tyvek fabric is usually used for covering.
Sleeping Systems
The sleeping system performs three functions: it keeps you warm while you sleep, supports your head and softens uneven and hard floors, and insulates you from the ground.
You don’t need to take a special pillow with you - you can use a bag filled with soft things as a pillow.
Air mattresses or foam mats are used to soften and insulate from the cold ground. In general, air mattresses are heavier, more expensive, take up less space, and are more comfortable. For warm weather, you can choose a shorter mat, but in cold conditions, the mat should be long enough to fully accommodate your feet.
Choose a sleeping bag or blanket that is suitable for the coldest expected temperatures. Unlike most ultralight gear, ultralight sleeping bags are more expensive than regular sleeping bags. The best filler is down - from 700 to 900 FP. This sleeping bag warms better than any synthetic, no matter what they say about it, it’s lighter, compresses well and lasts longer. It is not recommended to take sleeping bags with a lower FP - they do not last long.
In winter conditions, the down in a down sleeping bag may become damp due to evaporation from your body. To prevent this, you can use vapor-tight liners. It is often said that wet synthetics continue to heat, but wet down does not. But in reality this does not matter much, since the down in a sleeping bag is quite difficult to get wet due to the waterproof outer fabric used in modern models. However, be prepared to pay a couple hundred extra bucks for the weight savings and warmth.
If you decide to go with synthetics (which makes sense in very humid conditions), take sleeping bags with Thinsulate LiteLoft - it is lighter and more compact, or with Polarguard 3D. The sleeping bag, with a temperature down to -7C, will satisfy almost anyone who needs a 3-season sleeping bag. However, take the temperatures indicated by the manufacturer with a grain of salt - these figures are quite subjective. Do not take a sleeping bag that is too spacious or long - it will be difficult for your body to heat the additional volume of air. A tent or bivouac bag will add about 6 degrees of insulation compared to sleeping outdoors. A silk or fleece lining increases the sleeping bag's thermal insulation. If it is very cold, you can insert a silnylon bag inside the sleeping bag in the leg area. Also, in cold conditions, you can use vapor-proof bags and clothing.
Clothing
The main principle is no cotton, it is heavy, absorbs a lot of water, but stops heating and takes forever to dry. The classic three-layer system is suitable here.
Base layer - a T-shirt, for example an orange one - so that you don't get shot by hunters, and if it's not hunting season - so that poachers don't get shot:o)
And shorts, preferably with deep pockets (everything will fall out of the shallow ones) - for cards and sandwiches. In some conditions, it is more convenient to wear long pants and a long-sleeved jacket to protect from the sun, insects, and stinging plants. A duplicate set is recommended - for sleeping or while washing the main one.
Some people prefer skirts and Scottish kilts - they are comfortable and do not chafe. Whatever you choose, look for something comfortable and made from 100% nylon or polyester. Silk is very comfortable, but quickly breaks down under the sun.
It is recommended to wear a second layer, even in warm weather. A fleece pullover with a zipper at the neck, a hood, or at least a high collar is preferable - it is light and dries quickly. Fleece tights are a great base layer for your legs. The tighter they fit, the better. The nylon tights weigh just 30 grams and, together with the storm trousers, create a lightweight and warm all-round system.
Except in very hot weather, a fleece hat and gloves or mittens are recommended. In the morning, do not roll up your tent wearing these gloves - they will get wet from the morning condensation and your hands will be cold for a long time.
You will also need a waterproof jacket with a hood and possibly waterproof trousers. Don't limit yourself to just “breathable waterproof” materials like Gore-Tex. Other options are possible, something like this.
Some people like jackets and trousers made of silnylon. This set weighs only 170 grams and is vapor-tight against wind and rain. For colder conditions, insulated down or synthetic jackets or softshells are suitable.
In sparse forests or open areas, it is possible to use a light umbrella. It can be used to protect yourself and your backpack from precipitation or the scorching sun while moving or taking a short rest. An umbrella allows you to replace your Gore-Tex clothing with something simpler and lighter.
Cookware sets, burners (Cookwear, Stoves)
Cooking is inevitable when camping – you can’t eat dry food all the time. The price of hot food in terms of weight (excluding fuel) is not so high - about 250 grams. Additionally, it allows you to carry light freeze-dried foods such as rice. A typical kitchen system consists of a spoon, bowl and burner. A bowl or saucepan for one person should have a volume of about 1 liter. For example, this one. You can take aluminum cookware, but given the problems with cleaning, dents, and contamination of food with aluminum, it is better to take titanium.
The burner must have a power sufficient to quickly boil 0.5 liters. A typical ultra-light burner consists of three parts: the burner, the pan rack, and the wind deflector. Under normal conditions, homemade burners outshine commercial options. This burner is made from ordinary aluminum Pepsi or soda cans. A typical version of such a burner has the following characteristics: power - 1400 W, 30 ml of fuel can boil 0.5 liters of water in 5 minutes, 45 ml of fuel can boil 1 liter of water in 12 minutes. With larger volumes of water, homemade alcohol burners are inferior to commercial gas options due to large heat losses. Details here.
Also popular are commercial options such as MSR Pocket Rocket (weight 86 g, 1 liter of water boils in 3.5 minutes) or Primus Alpine Titanium (97 g, 3000 W, 1 liter in 3 minutes), running on gas, gas mixtures (propane, butane, isopropane) or liquid fuel (kerosene, legroin, motor gasoline). You can use Esbit solid fuel tablets in this burner stand. According to the manufacturer, a tablet weighing 14 grams is enough to boil 400 ml of water in 9 minutes.
A windbreak can be made from two or three layers of thick foil rolled into a cylinder. You need to make holes at the bottom for air flow and fasten the foil with a paper clip. The stand must be able to support the weight of the food bowl and be stable enough. Featured here is a 230 gram meal prep system. A homemade burner made from aluminum cans, running on denatured alcohol, is used as a heat source. This burner weighs only 30 grams. And don’t forget about matches - put several sets in different places so that they all don’t get wet at the same time.
Water containers, water treatment (Water Capacity/Treatment)
On average, a traveler needs 4-8 liters of water per day. Plastic bottles with a volume of 1.5-2 liters are often used as water containers. or these http://shambala.com.ua/catalog/index.php?versionID=1&page=catalog&categoryID=291 silnylon wineskins. Waterskins are convenient at stops and in the camp, but carrying water in them on the route is inconvenient. Sometimes you have to collect water in shallow water or in the dark. In this case, a small mug and bottles with a wide neck are useful. Never hit the road with just a water filter. They often break. Be sure to take chemical reagents with you to disinfect water. Although boiling is quite effective, it may happen that you do not have fuel to boil the water.
Filters
Of the 69 hikers surveyed who used filters, 53% reported health problems within a few days of starting their trip. Remember that some filter components break or leak, and filter elements periodically become clogged.
The most popular filter is the “Katadyn Hiker” - you simply put a hose with a black tip into the water, pump the handle and the filtered water comes out through this gray thing. Actually, you can remove this big gray thing, saving 30-50 grams. After about a month, the filter begins to clog and needs to be changed. The most effective way to increase the service life of the filter is to ensure that no dirt or dirt is sucked into the inlet pipe. The big disadvantage of filters is weight and price. “Katadyn Hiker” weighs 312 g.
Iodine
Used by many. It is lightweight and inexpensive. However, pay attention to the instructions - some manufacturers require that the water have a temperature of at least +10C for the iodine to be effective. It can also change the taste of food cooked with such water. Vitamin C powder can discolor the water, but at the same time deactivate the iodine, so add it after complete disinfection.
Chlorine
It breaks down over time in warm water and sun, and is ineffective in cold water. However, it is easy to obtain, requires only a few drops per liter, and dissolves quickly in water.
Proper hygiene will help eliminate most stomach diseases.
Trekking poles
They are useful in many situations. They reduce stress on your knees, reduce the risk of sprained ankles, help you maintain balance in unstable situations, can be used to protect yourself from dogs and snakes, and can be used to set up shelters. Don't buy the lightest ones - they bend easily. And don’t think that their use is a whim and posturing - they are very useful, especially on stepped slopes.
Socks
The choice of socks depends on several factors. If you have already worn some and liked them, buy several pairs. Make sure they don't slip and stay well on your feet while walking. Take several pairs on a hike. Some hikers prefer to wear thin nylon socks under “basic” wool or mixed socks. When choosing, weight, weather conditions and how loose your shoes are are important. If you get cold at night, take a pair exclusively for parking. Keep them dry along with your sleeping bag and the clothes you sleep in. Fleece socks are ideal for sleeping, scratchy wool ones never hurt. Three pairs are just right - you sleep in some, wear others, and spare ones. It is recommended that you air dry your socks every night, even if you haven't washed them.
Footwear
Running shoes are more durable running shoes, replacing heavy hiking boots. If they are of high quality, they will last from 930 to 1800 km. ways. They dry quickly, do not require wear, and are more “friendly” to ligaments and knees. Check the tread of the sole - the pattern should be dense and deep. When shopping, do not forget that your foot is slightly larger in the evening than in the morning. You need enough free space in the toe area and a tight-fitting heel part (heel). It is better to remove excess length of laces so that they have less tendency to come undone. During long hikes, regularly check the outsole and insole for wear and damage. However, the soles of lightweight running shoes may not be sufficient for rocky terrain. Sandals are also an important piece of equipment. In more durable sandals you can cross fords and follow the route. For example, in such http://shambala.com.ua/catalog/index.php?page=catalog_card&categoryID=205&versionID=1&itemID=23. They are also great to wear around camp.
Intuitively, you want to wear heavy, waterproof boots with hard soles. This option has both pros and cons. Numerous studies have shown that 450 grams of weight on the leg is equivalent to 2,700 grams on the back - accelerating and braking the extra weight on the leg with each step is not an easy task for the legs. If such boots get wet from the inside - from sweat or when crossing a ford - they will take a long time to dry. If you often twist your ankles, these boots may help you.
Hygiene
While traveling, you may not be as clean as you would be in the city, but a minimum level of hygiene is important for your health, the health of those around you, and your comfort. A very important point is to wash your hands after using the toilet and before preparing/eating food - otherwise you will experience intestinal disorders. There are two main ways: use special alcohol liquids/wipes or wash your hands with soap and water. At the same time, under no circumstances wash your hands in water sources - fill a bottle with water and water your hands from it. Overall, the easiest way to wash is by swimming in the lake. Try to wash away/downstream from water intake points.
Typical personal care kit:
Toothpaste, brush, dental floss;
Cotton balls, isopropyl alcohol - for treating various parts of the body to prevent the growth of germs and odor;
Shampoo, soap;
Spatula, toilet paper;
Small comb;
Bandana – you can soak it in cold water to cool it down, you can wipe off sweat with it and use it as a washcloth in the evening.
Medicine, first aid, repair (Medical/Emergency/Repair)
Super glue
cotton balls and isopropyl alcohol,
tweezers, sewing needles with an eye into which dental floss can be threaded,
nail clippers,
small mirror,
insulating tape,
ibuprofen,
small knife,
a pair of LED lights.
In recent years, flashlights with very bright LEDs have become available - they provide a lot of light, are economical and weigh little. For example, like these
http://www.photonlight.com/products/freedom_micro/index.html
http://www.photonlight.com/fusion/index.html
or
Princeton Tec Impact II LED (80g with four AAA batteries) that lasts about 75 hours.
Luxury items
Cell phones, radios and PDAs are becoming more commonplace on hikes. But don't forget that they need batteries, which means additional weight and expense.
The phone is, at best, suitable for emergency calls and only within the coverage area. Many people take cameras for filming. Lightweight digital or are recommended. disposable cameras.
Animals on a hike are a luxury and a headache. They need a lot of food and water. Dogs can run after some wild animals, but cats must be carried in a bag or they will run away somewhere. Some places, such as national parks, do not allow pets. In addition, your pet may annoy your companions.
Example N1: list of ultra-light gear and equipment
Big Three:
Sleeping bag – 680 gr.
Sleeping mat – 230 gr.
Shelter with posts, guy ropes and cover – 520 g.
Floor covering if desired.
Backpack, lining or trash bag as lining – 255 g.
Backpack cover – 43 g.
Clothes Rain jacket and trousers – 170 gr.
Warm clothes (fleece jacket – 340 g, trousers – 200 g, hat, gloves, socks)
Middle layer (tights – 85 g., silk jacket – 113 g., socks – 28 g.)
Basic clothes (shorts - 113 gr., jacket - 85 gr., socks - 28 gr.)
Sandals (28 gr.)
Duffel bag for clothes (14 g.)
Sleeping set (silk shorts - 57 g, silk jacket - 85 g)
Urban clothing
Medicine, first aid, repair (about 230 gr.)
Toothbrush, toothpaste, floss.
Comb
Light mirror
Tweezers
Disposable razors
Denatured alcohol, cotton balls
Toilet paper
Spatula
Hand sanitizer or alcohol
Body lotion
Towel, bandana
Painkiller
Imodium - antidiarrheal drug
Multivitamins
Sunscreen
Insect repellent
Insulating tape
Threads, needles
Pins
Liquid super glue
Prescribed medications
Glasses and sunglasses
Two or three packages for all this
Kitchen system (approx. 200 gr.)
Burner
Fuel (hexamine or alcohol)
Matches, lighter
Windbreak and stands
Bowler
Cup, spoon
Dish cleaner
Polyethylene food bags
Resealable trash bags
Carrying case for torch and stands
Food bag
Preparing water and containers
Water Treatment Chemicals
Possibly a filter
Water bottles (56 g.)
Waterskin (28 g.)
Pendant or bottle pockets
Miscellaneous
Paper and pencil/pen
Trekking poles
Driver's license (in Russia - passport)
Plastic card with money in the account
Emergency phone numbers
Flashlights with light bulbs/LEDs
Knife (5 gr.)
Can opener (4 g.)
Wristwatch (16 g)
Route guides maps
Compass
Cash
Handbag for documents and money
Rope
Luxury items Cellular
Radio with batteries
PDA
Camera
CD player, discs
Knee pads
Books
Pepper spray
Food container
Example N2: list of ultra-light gear and equipment for a 3-day route in the mountains
Backpack - GVP Gear G5 Gossamer – 198 g.
Backpack cape – homemade from silnylon – 71 g.
Sleeping bag - Rab Quantum top bag – 482 g.
Mattress – Bozeman Mt. Works ComfortLite Torso-Sized Inflatable Pad – 284g.
Backpack - GVP Gear G5 Gossamer – 198 g.
Flooring – dense Tyvek – 99 g.
Shelter - Tarptent Virga 2 with extended sewn-in floor – 822 gr.
Cooking - food container, spoon, without burner - 20 g.
Water purification – iodine tablets – 6 g.
Water flask – Platypus Canteen, 2 Liter – 34 g.
Miscellaneous – Photon II flashlight, brush, tablets, first aid, sun visor, repellent, cord, cards – 142 g.
Rain/wind clothing – RainShield O2 Rain jacket, GoLite Reed trousers, disposable plastic gloves – 145 g.
Clothes on yourself
- Western Mountaineering Flight Jacket – 298 g.
- microfleece trousers – 173 g.
- microfleece jacket – 204 g.
- gloves – 31 gr.
- TNF WindStopper Fleece Hat – 37 g.
Total – 3350 gr.
Food – 680 gr./day x 2 days plus a third of the day – 1590 gr.
Water – 0.5 liters in a Gatoraid Bottle – 500 g.
Fuel – no – 0 gr.
Total – 5440 gr.
DIY
There are many benefits to homemade gear. You get the item exactly the size you need. Clothes fit you better and pack better. Awnings can have the sizes and shapes you need. The backpacks will have the right size, straps and waistband for you. The backpack covers will be the right size, the burner, windscreen and stands will fit in your kettle. In addition, you can add the features you need. Stuff sacks can serve as hanging pockets or as a vapor barrier in a sleeping bag. The backpack will have as many pockets as you need. You will have the opportunity to simplify the design by avoiding unnecessary locks, strips, seams and other holes in the fabric.
The translation of the article and useful comments and additions were made by a visitor to the bask.ru forum - gapsf, who kindly agreed to make this article available for public viewing. A link to the source when reprinting is required!
Sources:
http://trailquest.net/ultralight.html
http://www.backpacking.net/
http://www.centerwalk.com/
http://theory.lcs.mit.edu/~e_lehman/Ultralight/equipment.html
http://swultralight.home.bresnan.net/