Hike to the clouds

Hike to the clouds

📍 Carpathians 🗓 2014 ✍ Aleksei Zhuk ↻ updated 2017

Light began to shine through the window and then I realized that a new day had come, that long-awaited day when I would see what I had long dreamed of. But getting out of bed and looking out the window, my joy disappeared somewhere. I saw a thick and gray fog. Throughout Ukraine, weather forecasters predicted rain. But as we drove closer and closer to Ivano-Frankivsk, a miracle happened - the fog dissolved and a clean and clear sky appeared above the horizon. The train stopped and leaving it my soul was filled with joy and happiness.

Having arrived a couple of hours earlier than the scheduled meeting, I had to wait a little, sitting in the waiting room of the station. But time flew by quickly and when we arrived at the main entrance of the station, where the group was scheduled to meet, our guide was already waiting for me. As it turned out, almost everyone was already sitting in the cafe, discussing the future hike. When the group gathered it consisted of 11 people. We decided that it was better to get to the village of Kvasy by ordering a minibus. The trip cost us 70 UAH.

The driver turned out to be a cheerful and friendly person. All the way he told us interesting stories about local residents and their lives. In general, the trip turned out to be interesting and sincere, if not for one thing. The condition of the asphalt of local roads left me in a state of shock. It resembled the lunar surface, which could only be driven across in a tank. The constant shaking made me feel compassion and pain for our homeland. But more on the good stuff.

Three hours later, having seen enough of the beautiful landscapes of rivers, houses and surrounding mountains, we finally reached the village of Kvasy. Having paid the driver, we began to pack all our things and products: cereals, cereals, canned food, etc. When everyone was ready, having taken pictures, we set off on a long, and as it turned out from the very first steps, it was not an easy journey.

Railway

After walking the first hundred meters up a steep slope with a backpack weighing about ten kilograms, although some guys had it more than fifteen, the thought crept into me that I couldn’t stand it, even though I was in good physical shape. But clenching all his will into a fist, the body quickly returned to working condition. Having chosen the right pace of walking and breathing, things went a little easier, rising higher and higher towards the clouds. And behind us an indescribable landscape began to open up. The highway and the village were left far behind, and everything around became clearly visible.

horses in the mountains

The steep climb gave way to an almost horizontal road, and we walked, enjoying the surrounding scenery. The path twisted like a snake and changed its direction in three planes, now up, now down, now left, now right. The further we walked, the further civilization remained behind us and gradually we were enveloped in a dense, primeval, dense forest. An indescribable silence hung over us and only the joyful singing of birds accompanied us all the way to the parking lot near the stream. Having settled down, pitched our tents, we began to collect firewood for cooking dinner over the fire. Towards evening it became very cold. After eating and drinking tea in a good mood, we all set off, after a hard day, for our first overnight stay, at an altitude of 1200m above sea level.

our group

Having woken up, everyone expected to feel terrible pain in their legs and shoulders, but they felt unprecedented lightness and freshness, and a full charge of batteries to continue the journey. Having refreshed ourselves, we slowly began to prepare to continue our journey. Everything that happened up to this point seemed like an easy walk. All the subtleties and nuances of professional mountaineering began to reveal themselves. The higher we rose, the more severe the natural and weather conditions became. The soft clay and grass underfoot turned into hard and unstable stones, and the beautiful forest turned into impenetrable thickets that clung to our clothes with all their might, trying to hold us back and not let us go further.

fog over the Carpathians

The warm breeze gave way to an angry and cold wind, and as long as you walk you don’t care, but as soon as you stop for a rest, it creeps through you. If at this moment you happen to sweat, then everything can turn into at least a cold. There are a lot of dangers around. You need to look carefully at your feet. One wrong step and you can easily twist your leg. But you are in the mountains, far from civilization, and you won’t be able to call a taxi to take you to the hospital and you will have to stomp back in this state, exposing the whole group. Because these are people, and people will not leave you in trouble. When going on a hike of this level, you need to approach such a matter with all responsibility. You cannot do without a strong, waterproof tent, clothing and shoes. It is also necessary to have replacement shoes, underwear and a warm sleeping bag. Walking lightly won't work.

But still, despite the difficulties, we conquered the first peak - Mount Petros (2020m) from which a unique view of the entire Carpathians opened up, and the city of Hoverla was especially clearly visible. Next we had a very steep descent and an overnight stay at the foot of the mountain with unforgettable rain, hurricane winds and a cannonade of lightning and thunder. But everything worked out and the best was yet to come – the climb to Hoverla.

Descent from Petros, view from below

Hoverla turned out to be not so difficult to conquer, but it still took a little effort. After the overnight rain, all the roads were flooded with water and at that moment, there was just not enough waterproof shoes. During the journey, the temperature often changes - on one side of the mountain it is quiet, sunny and hot, and on the other it is windy and cold. Therefore, you have to dress and undress. But the end justifies the means. The view from the top warms my soul for a long time.

On Hoverla

And then a long descent awaited us, a walk in the most beautiful forest along the river, dinner in a pleasant and cheerful company and a long-awaited rest.

Forest

The morning greeted us with rain. We had to wait a little before setting off, but having a boost of energy, we quickly made up for lost time. On this day we had to see the mountain lake “Nesamovite” and even swim in it, checking the legend that by disturbing it you can cause rain. And it really is possible. Having descended for the night to Lake Brebeneskul at an altitude of 1800m and barely having had dinner, it began to rain, along with a strong wind. Fortunately, not as strong as Petros’s, but very cold.

Carpathians

We had to walk all the next day in the fog until we got down. And having gone from the cold autumn period to the warm spring, along the way I encountered a countless number of different flowers. We visited the trenches of the Polish-Slovak border in 1923, saw an old observatory, an eared stone reminiscent of ancient ruins, and many other interesting and beautiful things.

Having traveled a long way, the longest for the entire period, we descended to the village of Dzembronya, which was literally bathed in the rays of the summer sun, where we spent the last night by the river. And in the morning our old friend the driver came to us and took us to Ivano-Frankivsk.

This is how our journey ended, or maybe it is just beginning. After all, the only things better than mountains are mountains. Of course, it’s impossible to tell or describe everything. It just needs to be seen and remembered for life. In general, come for yourself and see, you won’t regret it.

I say hello to the whole group, thank you for the company and wish you all the best.

Our group

Author: Aleksei Zhuk · Written June 9, 2013

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