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This report is about the tour: Annapurna Base Camp 🗓 June 9, 2019
Memories of the trip to Annapurna Base Camp, spring 2019.
The snow-white markings of the route flash before your eyes, stringing thoughts like beads on a thread, raindrops drum on the glass, and memories carry you thousands of kilometers away...
Nepal... The noise of the streets, the colorful clothes of local residents, soothing music and a sea of flags fluttering invitingly in the wind... There is some special magic in them - peace and tranquility in every movement. Nepal...these are mountains that absorb you to the last cell with their beauty, grandeur and strength. Mountains that do not leave a chance to forget the power of emotions of a simple person standing in their cradle, inhaling the frosty smell of spring, with a childish sincere feeling of happiness.
Two weeks flew by in a flash, leaving behind a sea of impressions and warm emotions. On the way from the bustling streets of Kathmandu to the snow-capped peaks of 8,000-meter peaks, every day we discovered new facets of the country, local customs and sometimes ourselves.
Day after day, the world around was painted either in the bright green colors of spring greenery, with the murmur of mountain rivers, or in the pale pink delicate aroma of flowering slopes. He was drowning in the fog of windy passes, and in an instant, changing his appearance, he was enchanted by the fairy tale of the rhododendron forest. The path either fell down, running away and hiding in the gorge, then again and again it led us up, revealing views of extraordinary beauty, where the sleepy rays of the sun illuminated the snow-capped peaks, painting them golden. At times the landscape seemed especially harsh, and the traces of recent avalanches reminded of human weakness before the power and grandeur of nature.
This was my path to ABC, this is exactly what these 2 weeks were like for me - bright, contrasting, emotional and especially warm. Thanks to Kirill Yasko and Outdoorukraine for professionalism, calmness and this priceless set of emotions and impressions. Guys, Zhenya, Artyom, Sasha, Dima, life brings people together in one place for a reason - thank you for your experience, support, humor and openness!
I can’t say that in my life I lacked activity, adventure, colorful countries and exoticism. No, not at all. And there was never a goal to “conquer” all the peaks of the world. Hundreds of planes, airports, terminals. Countries changing one after another in the sliding rhythm of work trips. And from time to time, the breathtaking view of the mountains is alluring. The mountains that I so wanted to touch and for a moment dissolve in their eternal calm and beauty. Mountains, close and at the same time distant, hidden behind thick glass of hotels, cars, airplanes, silently reminding you of the importance of what you love and what is really important to you.
Having returned home once again from a business trip (as I remember now, it was October), something inside me protested, putting forward a strict demand: “I want it!” I want to go to the mountains!”
And since Nepal was on the list of countries that I had never visited yet, and where I wanted to go sooner or later, the choice settled on it. The magic “I want” button on the Outdoorukraine website was pressed - millions of invisible particles filled with excitement, desire and thirst for adventure rushed into the distance, opening the doors to something new. The request was sent, marking the beginning of the changes.
Stop-Stop-Stop!...Himalayas? Seriously? Yes, there is experience from the Carpathians, Crimea, Turkey, but these are the Himalayas!!! It is here that all the highest peaks of the world are concentrated, it is about their beauty and inaccessibility that more than one film has been made and more than one bestseller has been written... Uuuhhh. The internal panic, reinforced by questions from family, friends and loved ones, did not go away for a long time, but, concentrating on the positive and receiving maximum information from instructor Kirill Yasko, I was looking forward to April...
Now, after returning home, looking back, I clearly understand how important it is when preparing for a trip not to be embarrassed that you don’t know something and to ask questions both to the instructor and to other participants in the trip. In this regard, I was very lucky. Special THANKS to Kirill and trip “accomplice” Zhenya Bardosh!
So…
Day 1. Kathmandu
After 2 planes (a total of 9 hours of flight) and 7 hours of layover, it’s hard to talk about vivacity, but it was simply impossible to refuse to take a walk through the colorful Thamel. Bright colors, sounds, aromas of spices and incense - chaos born out of nowhere, knocking you down and taking you far, far away from reality.
Doubts about arriving a day earlier were instantly erased - there was an opportunity not only to fully recover after the flight, but also to enjoy the calm tourist life of Kathmandu without haste.
Day 2. New Year
New Year's Day (2076) in Nepal. Symbolic. Today the whole group is finally assembled. Having met the new arrivals at the airport, we began to explore the local attractions, which, as it turned out, were quite a few.
The day was spent in Bhaktapur or the “city of believers”, which is what the name means. And there were many believers here. It was as if we were caught in a whirlpool of sounds produced by many drums, in a stream of people, national clothes, flags, flowers, aromas and emotions. Emotions of light, joyful, dedicated to the beginning of a new life - the beginning of the New Year.
Day 3. Temples
Today was a busy day. We managed to visit several places at once: Swayambhunath or Monkey temple, a cremation site, Pashupatinath Temple, see the snow-white Boudhanath stupa, slowly walk around the outskirts of Kathmandu to the sounds of “Om mani padme hum”, and also visit Patan - the “land of beauty” and the cultural and religious center of Nepal.
At the end of the day, sheltered from the downpour, to the sound of raindrops drumming on the glass, we went through questions about the track. Kirill scared me with horror stories about the “miner” - a slight jitter appeared inside me and I’m not afraid of this word “fear”. “That’s what made me happy... Maybe him?”
Day 4. Transfer to Pokhara
The rise was early - 4 am. Having quickly packed up, we set off for Pokhara.
The road promised to be long and tiring, but surprisingly the time passed easily, fun and without much difficulty.
Arriving in Pokhkara, we didn’t have to sit around for long. After a quick lunch, we headed to the local attractions - Pheva Lake and the Peace Stupa.
In order to get to the stupa, located at an altitude of about 1103 m above sea level, we had to work hard. But despite the fatigue in my body, the training before going to the track turned out to be very useful.
Day 5. Start
Early rise again. At 7 am we load into the jeeps and drive along the mountain serpentine to the starting point of the track.. Gorgeous views compensate for the harsh shaking in the car and a few hours later we are there.
The route begins with a long climb. The mountains greet us with lingering rain. Without being upset for a second, we stomp up. 6 km and we are at our first overnight stop in the village of Ban Tanti. Height 2060m
Day 6. Three thousand meters
The night passed without a trace. Fresh air and a busy day served as a good sleeping pill. Early rise, breakfast and we are on the road again. Today we are breaking our own record for height - Ghorepani 2874m and Poonhill - 3210m
And thoughts are swarming in my head...Mountains, let me see your beauty, let me into your world and possessions, free me from fear and doubt. Your strength and beauty are mesmerizing - let me touch it...
Day 7. Dawn in the Himalayas
Early rise at 4:30 – we go to watch the sunrise at Poonhill. A snake of lights from lanterns leads the people upward. Gradually, light creeps into the air, but the sun still rests in the snow-covered mansions. Climbing Poonhill, we freeze with delight - the beauty and grandeur of the Himalayas opens before our eyes. The first rays of the sun illuminate the peaks, painting them golden. The air is filled with a gentle, slightly sweet aroma of spring, and the sleepy slopes are decorated with rhododendron flowers, like a thin silk shawl. Himalayas - you are beautiful!
Then there was a descent, crossing a pass and a rhododendron forest of extraordinary beauty. It was as if a fairy tale had appeared before my eyes - trees and earth drowning in red petals and fog.
More than 13 km, several long descents and ascents, rain and hail, and we are at our overnight stop.
Day 8. Coffee and pastries
The morning pleases with the warm rays of the sun, puppies are frolicking in the courtyard, the sky is clear and clean, and from the windows of the loggia you can see the “fish tail” of Machapuchare... Today we are promised a hard day. After breakfast, we slowly set out on the road.
And again the road goes rapidly down, then up, then down again... By lunchtime we arrive in Chomrong with the long-awaited coffee and pastries. A little rest and back on the road. Several hanging bridges, descents and ascents, and we are in Sinuwa. During dinner, the owner's children play with us, it's raining outside the window. It's calm and quiet inside.
Day 9. In the fog
The usual early rise. From today the landscape is changing - we put on our boots and warm ourselves up a little. After lunch we encounter the first snow - traces of recent avalanches. Everything around is in the fog... Everything around seems to warn of danger. Tired, we go up. The fog becomes denser, enveloping everything around, gusts of wind intensify, sometimes burning with the cold breath of the mountains. The going becomes more difficult, part of the group remains behind. Having reached the 3200 mark we stop in the village of Deorali. As soon as we cross the threshold of the loggia, a stream of water breaks through the sky.
Day 10. At altitude
The night passed quickly. The cold enveloped everything around. The first rays of the sun sleepily and slowly crept into the gorge. It's time to move on. One of the most difficult sections lies ahead. Here spring does not yet rule fully - only small thawed patches, lonely flowering trees and deep mountain rivers remind of spring...
The appearance of the mountains has changed. The green slopes dotted with rhododendron flowers were left behind. The delicate, sweetish aroma of spring gave way to frosty freshness. Other mountains opened before my eyes - harsh, icy, enchanting with their strength and inaccessibility, drowning in the clouds, as if connecting this world with something mysterious and distant, still unknown to man.
After a couple of hours we reached Machapuchare Base Camp (MBC). The camp was full of life. She shone with the sparkle of her eyes, rang with laughter, fussed, made noise in different languages of the world, and beckoned with the aroma of coffee and freshly prepared breakfast. Life was in full swing, as it is not in full swing in any of the metropolises, extinct from the gray everyday life. She breathed freedom, calmness and confidence.
The sun rose high and the sky was still clear - this was an opportunity not to be missed. Having promptly had breakfast and thrown off our heavy backpacks, we moved towards Annapurna Base Camp (ABC).
Day 11. Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC)
If the clouds hid the beauty from us, why not rise again? After all, it’s not every day that you get the chance to admire such landscapes at an altitude of more than 4000 m.
Having woken up before dawn, we again slowly headed to the cherished point of the route - the Annapurna Sanctuary (ABC). Everything around seemed unreal - the silhouettes of the mountains towered above us, and like giant phosphorus figures glowed in the darkness; the sky beckoned with its depth, and somewhere far in the east the sun woke up....
Passing the already familiar camp destroyed by an avalanche, we walked higher. There was not a soul ahead of us - only pure snow-white snow, sparkling brightly in the sun, and breathtakingly magnificent views of the mountains - Annapurna South and Annapurna I.
And then there was a long descent to Bamba, Chomrong, with its long-awaited aromatic coffee and fresh pastries, hot springs, mountain rivers and a sea of blooming orchids. Next was the way home, Pokhara, Kathmandu and the evenings were already as usual warm and soulful.
Main
The adventure is over... but the Himalayas remain in my heart forever.
And if you think that once you go to Nepal you will stop – don’t even think about it. Mountains are a drug.
Nadezhda Shvets, May 2019
P.S. “Only two things will we regret on our deathbed - that we loved little and traveled little” - Mark Twain
