Instructor in Tien Shan

Photo report on the trip to "Trans-Ili Alatau" (Northern Tien Shan) 09/12/2016

This fall I went to the Tien Shan for the second time (the first was a couple of years ago) as an instructor. It turned out that the already familiar route prepared many surprises... Oddly enough, mostly pleasant ones, for which special thanks to the great Amangeldy)) Some superstitious tourists believe that this mountain and its name can have the most radical influence on the weather over the Trans-Ili Alatau. So, we were very lucky with the weather and this had a significant impact on our successes. We've covered a lot more ground than last time and are therefore quite pleased with ourselves. Well, the autumn Tien Shan is, of course, beautiful.

The last time we were in the Tien Shan was in July 2013. Then the weather tested our strength throughout the entire hike. It rained every day, there was heavy hail several times, and one day we were pretty well covered with snow. However, it was quite warm, and we were prepared for such weather (awning, jackets, good boots). Therefore, no one suffered much. Another thing is that the final speed of movement turned out to be quite low. Then, in 2013, we quickly came to terms with this state of affairs. Apparently, here in the Tien Shan, it’s customary to walk wet)). In the same Norway, the weather is much nastier, and nothing - tourism is booming.

1 day. Shymbulak

So this year, when the hike started with rain, I was not at all surprised. In Almaty it was just drizzling, in Medeo it was raining mushrooms, and in Chimbulak we found ourselves in a continuous cloud with rain. The board at the ski resort showed only +9 degrees. While we were changing clothes (fortunately there is a large and warm toilet there), the temperature dropped another 2 degrees. Then one of the participants (Olga from Volgodonsk) realized that she had gotten too excited without taking warm gloves with her, and ran to the ski shop for mittens. Meanwhile, I was trying on a new jacket.

Right before the hike, I bought a bunch of new equipment - membrane, boots, mat, trousers. There wasn't really time to test or tear them apart. And now, it seems, there is an opportunity to experience all this in bulk. I hid the camera in a double silicone case, wrapped myself in silicone pants, put on silicone leggings over new boots, put a new jacket over my shirt and made a big point by throwing on a backpack with an already unfolded Terra Incognita poncho-raincoat... Wouldn’t it be a little hot for me?

Yes, I overdid it out of fear. Despite the incessant rain, already in the first hundred meters of climb I had to unzip all the zippers on my jacket. What will happen next when the climb gets steeper?

As a result, I arrived at the overnight stay without a jacket - in only a shirt and an unbuttoned poncho. It looked quite strange, since by that time we had climbed to an altitude of about 3100 meters where instead of rain it was snowing. The rest of the participants dressed a little more conservatively - people were freezing during lunch and many did not take off their warm clothes before leaving. Therefore, when we finally set up camp, a funny picture took place - I rushed to get dressed (until it cooled down), and others, on the contrary, began to take off their extra jackets to try to dry them (the precipitation had reduced its pressure by that time).

Preparing for the cold evening (the snow didn’t even think of melting, the thermometer showed 0) I put on almost all the things that were in my backpack - a primaloft jacket, a down vest, a membrane and a relatively wet poncho. I fastened the legs to the shorts (they were hidden under the silicone pants), and put on a fleece hat and gloves. The only items left in stock were a thermal jacket and thin Pertex sweatpants (I took them instead of thermal underpants). I didn’t take off my slightly damp shirt - I was warm and it dried quickly on me... However, I wasn’t hot either. I thought that instead of a vest I should have taken a full-size down jacket. But you can’t fit it under the membrane, and I was preparing for a wet hike...

While dinner was being prepared (an experimental pickle), I contemplated the gray snowy haze with some sadness and thought that I definitely should have taken the self-removing membrane pants (also recently purchased). Walking in them on the route is of course too much (I’ll get tired of it), but putting them on in the evening would be nice. In short, a moment of weakness)) Then, I remembered how nice it was to walk today with a light backpack (about 4 kg less than the other guys) and calmed down.

Before going to bed, I hung a thermometer at my head. It showed something around +8 (there were three of us in a cramped tent). Not bad, of course, but for some reason I didn’t believe it and went to bed as warm as possible: in pants, warm socks, covered inside the sleeping bag with a jacket and a down vest. Well, I finally changed my already dry shirt for thermal underwear. Thus, by the time lights out, the effects of the evening rain were 90% eliminated (the poncho and shirt were completely dry). I also took slightly damp socks with me into my sleeping bag.

At first it was comfortable to sleep, but after a couple of hours I warmed up so much that I had to undress (pants and socks) and throw out extra clothes (jacket and vest) from my sleeping bag. But I took the thermos of tea from the vestibule and put it in the tent - it was clearly cold outside.

Day 2. Titov Pass

In the morning it was -4 outside, the puddles were frozen, but we weren’t. The outside of the tents was covered with a thick layer of frost, and the neighbors even froze the lightning at the entrance. But there was no condensation inside the tent. While breakfast was being prepared, the guys tried to dry their jackets and raincoats that had gotten wet the day before on the clothesline. But without the sun it was pointless and we decided to postpone the big drying until the evening or lunch.

The sun was in no hurry to warm our camp and most of us came to the start quite tightly dressed. Personally, I wanted to close my mouth from the cold air.

Literally 15 minutes after the start, we crossed the terminator (the border of light and shadow) and life immediately got better. Over the next hour we stopped several times and gradually undressed. In addition to the sun, the climb in altitude began to warm us. As a result, I was left in thin trousers and a thermal jacket. I didn’t hide my Pertex windbreaker; I wore it during rest stops.

Take a closer look at the next photo - small white clouds of dust are visible on the sunny strip on the right side of the frame. They were lifted up by a huge boulder rushing down the slope. And a little lower, in the shade, you can see the gazebo next to which our tents stood. In the Tien Shan, landslides, rockfalls and mudflows are the most common occurrence.

While we were going up, there was a lot of time to look down at our feet. So we discovered flowers very similar to edelweiss.

When we climbed to the pass, everyone was stunned by the fact that instead of the expected piercing wind there was complete calm. The sun was shining brightly, and the freshly fallen snow was shining no less brightly in the sun - I had to reach into my backpack for dark glasses and sunscreen. At the same time I took out and put on a warm jacket and vest. We decided to have lunch right at the pass, and although we didn’t feel the cold yet (the neighbors were generally sunbathing), it was clear that if even a tiny cloud obscured the sun, it would immediately become cold.

Before starting the descent, I take off my warm clothes and stay in a thermal jacket and Pertex. I also wear fleece gloves. They are needed not because of the cold, but to protect your hands in case of a fall on large powder.

We stop near the lakes to wait for those lagging behind and undress again. I unfasten the legs of my trousers and hide them in my leggings. The rest of the day I walk like this - in shorts and a thermal jacket. Very warm and comfortable.

On the way we meet a local instructor who scares us with the fact that the good weather could end at any moment. According to the local tourist calendar, winter begins in the Tien Shan on September 15. At any moment it can snow and cover the passes. Actually, we already realized this yesterday, so we decide not to linger, not to have a half-day, but to make the most of the available weather window and move forward. We drop about 1000 meters of altitude and set up camp at the beginning of the forest area. Last time this journey took us 1 day longer.

In the evening we cook dinner on the burners, but at the same time we light a fire to warm ourselves up. As soon as the sun set, it became very chilly. Even sitting by the fire, I want to replace my vest with a down jacket. Having learned from yesterday's experience, I undress before going to bed and remain in just a thermal jacket - it is again very warm in the tent.

Day 3. Drop-off

In the morning it’s +10 overboard. Nevertheless, we are not very hot - we are waiting for the duty officers to gather and are in no hurry to undress. I'm trying to start in a windbreaker and thermal jacket. But just like yesterday, literally 15 minutes from the start the sun hits us and we have to take off our windbreaker.

After another 40 minutes we arrange a more thorough change of clothes. I exchange my thermal jacket for a shirt and unfasten my trouser legs. We go out onto the road and then the real heat begins - about 28 degrees. At the slightest opportunity, we hide in the shadows, try to walk at a pace, but not run too fast, so as not to strain the heart.

Upon arrival at Chimbulak, we settle down in the already familiar hall of the underground toilet. There is a lot of space, there are benches and a kiosk with chocolates, there is a mobile signal and it is not at all hot. We pick up a food drop (two bags of food) at the camp site and begin dividing the weight. This is a rather intricate process, it requires peace and concentration. Therefore, the guys have time to wash their hair and “do their laundry” in the washstands. Some even have time to have a snack at a ski restaurant.

As a result of the distribution of the delivery, the boys received 8 kg of food, and the girls 4. It is obvious that there is more food than we have time to eat - after all, we are already a day ahead of schedule, and in the future, most likely, the gap will only increase. It is clear that no one would lie to throw away an extra stew - meat is sacred)) But it turned out that no one even dares to leave extra sugar. Looks like I'll have to eat more...

Thank God the lifts are working and we don’t crawl to the pass on foot (as was the case last time), but take off in 20 minutes by cable car. With heavy backpacks (the guys weighed about 30 kg), we would have been stuck here for a long time.

At the top (altitude 3200) it’s still warm and sunny - I’m walking in shorts and a shirt. We have lunch half an hour from the cable car. Many, of course, did not have time to get hungry, but this is not scary - the main thing is to get rid of a whole kilogram of food. There is a small lake (or large puddle) nearby where you can take off your shoes and freshen your paws.

Only half an hour passes after eating and we stop again for a snack - the previous couple of days we were careless about eating the pocket and now we have accumulated a fair supply of nuts. A group climbing up from Left Talgar is lounging next to us - they want to have time to go down on the cable car and therefore don’t stay too long. Following them, a Belgian couple crawls out onto the pass (does she really look like Amalia Mordvinova or is it just me?). These were the only foreigners we met on the route. And in general, if you don’t count the area around Chimbulak, there were very few people in the mountains.

The descent from the pass into the valley, although it lasted quite a bit, did cause some inconvenience. On a steep dirt slope, one of the participants began to lose control of his heavy backpack, as a result of which he slipped and fell several times. I had to make an unplanned stop and give my legs some extra rest.

But the parking was nice. Finally, there is a real forest all around - a lot of firewood, no wind, and generally somehow cozy. I didn’t really want to go to bed at 8 o’clock in the evening, so I started swimming and doing a little laundry in a nearby stream. Then the idea came to take a photo of the glowing tent....

In general, I ran like this for up to 11 hours, no less. I loaded up another battery for my camera, took a dozen not-so-successful shots, and burned a couple of logs to keep warm. But my soul became light and calm - I could go to bed with a clear conscience.

Day 4 Left Talgar

It's warm again in the morning. While I was packing my backpack, of course, I was wearing a jacket, but then, in order not to waste time, I start straight away in a shirt.

We go upstream of the Left Talgar River. Although the terrain is flat in appearance, you constantly have to overcome something. There are a lot of impressive mudflows and accompanying dry riverbeds and ravines.

We meander through this chaos. We lost the trail a couple of times. More precisely, they lost the main trail. There are a huge number of parallel paths, and all of them are proudly marked by tourists. You can choose one of them and try to stick to it, or you can go haphazardly, jumping from path to path. We tried both options - the result (movement speed) was approximately the same.

We passed a couple of gorgeous parking lots. They are equipped with homemade benches and tables, and one even has a kettle, a rain awning and a large frame for a camp sauna. It can be seen that the place has long been chosen by Almaty tourists.

I took the GoalZero solar panel from the guys from Vladivostok for testing. I secured it with ropes to the “roof” of the backpack and now I charge the “can” on the go. The day is sunny, so the process goes quite quickly. However, with a battery on a backpack it is much more difficult to dive under windbreaks and wade through undergrowth.

We have lunch at Sunny Glade. The long-awaited marmots are not visible, although their holes are here at every turn. But I find a wild currant bush. It is black in color, but in shape and taste it is more similar to red currant (porichka).

In the upper reaches of the clearing, a strong spring gushes out of the ground. Its icy water differs sharply from the muddy streams flowing two steps away.

The weather begins to deteriorate. The mountains ahead are covered by a thin but cold-looking haze. I'm mentally preparing for another snowfall.

Meanwhile, we are passing a relatively dangerous section - we are traversing an unstable ridge made of large boulders. For the first time today we meet people - several tourists are sitting carefree and chatting in the middle of a landslide zone... We passed their tents 20 minutes ago.

At 16:00 we reach our intended overnight stop at the “dark tower”. Height 2970 meters. It’s not very level here, but there is water nearby and at the same time the parking lot is located on a hillock - if the next mudflow decides to sweep through the valley, then we will have a couple more chances (to tell our grandchildren about everything).

As the clouds continue to thicken, we do not limit ourselves to setting up tents, but immediately set up a kitchen tent. We tried to anchor it close to a large boulder so that it protected the working burners and our backs from the wind. However, due to the proximity of the stone, I had to tinker with fixing the guy wires.

So we already had dinner and drank tea and even looked at photos from our trip to Iceland on our phone. And still no rain! On the contrary, the moon crawled out from behind the neighboring ridge and I was again drawn to photographing the tents. Many thanks to my neighbors for their patience. After all, when a crazy person with a bunch of stones (instead of a tripod) is running around the camp in the middle of the night for an hour, not everyone can continue to sleep peacefully.

Day 5 Radial to the Dmitriev glacier

Nothing happened overnight, the clouds didn’t go away. Today we are going on a radial hike to the Dmitriev glacier for the whole day. He is not visible from the camp - he is hiding somewhere on the right around the bend of the valley.

The most dangerous section, oddly enough, was waiting for us 15 meters from the camp. It took a lot of effort to cross the river from which we took water for food over the stones. The slippery stones did not want to serve us as reliable support, and we, in turn, objected to the prospect of getting our boots wet up to the waist:)

Further, across the river, everything went easier - we found a half-forgotten path and an hour later we were standing under a rocky wall at the beginning of the climb to the glacier.

Fortunately, we didn’t have to storm the wall - a winding, but completely flat crevice led up, along which we smoothly moved towards the goal.

Beyond the bend we expected to see a lake. But it turned out that my map was out of date - the lake leaked. That's how it went and went down to zero. All that remained was a flat sandy desert a hundred meters long.

We're kind of tired. We would like to have lunch, but after eating no one will want to go anywhere, so we crawl on.

On the endless sand and stone disgrace, traces of intelligent activity were constantly discovered - garbage, tin cans, fire pits (what were they burning here?). Once we even came across a car tire... I wonder if the climbers dragged it here, or if the rescuers threw it down from a helicopter?

And now we are finally at the edge of the glacier. The region is high, dirty and inaccessible. The desire to walk on the ice to the nearest crack immediately disappeared. We quickly take a group photo and move back a little - we don’t want to have lunch sitting in the refrigerator.

On the way back, well-fed and calm, we no longer pass the dry lake, but find a couple of minutes to examine it more carefully. In the lower corner of the former bottom there is an area with wet sand. This wet substance sways darkly (funny) under your feet. Quicksand? Naturally!

When we returned to the camp, and we succeeded (we escaped from the sands and found tents), we did not collapse on the grass and did not lift our paws up (although we really wanted to). In the morning it was decided to move the camp 300-400 meters up at the slightest opportunity. Like so that the next day it would be closer to the pass.

And so, stubborn and tired, we pack up the camp, put our backpacks on our shoulders and begin the long climb. But before we had even walked 20 minutes, before our eyes a HUGE piece broke off from the rock on the left. A collapse begins - stones fly from above like a hail, there is a terrible roar, the earth trembles. But it hasn’t reached us yet - the rock is high. With one hand I take out the camera and start shooting, and with the other I unfasten the buckle of the backpack and easily change the direction of movement. In other words, I run away - just in case, I climb up the slope opposite to the collapse. The video recording continues... After a couple of seconds, it becomes clear that the stones will not reach us. We return to the trail and continue the run.

After the collapse, our life priorities changed somewhat. Now we think less about tired legs and care more about ensuring that the parking lot is protected from potential rockfalls. And as we go, we listen and look much more warily. Such vigilance helped us spot a herd of mountain goats higher up the slope.

However, a little later it became clear that the goats were not too afraid of us. Even when they noticed our group, they did not run away, but calmly continued to chew the grass. Apparently the bastards understand that for a loaded tourist, even an unfortunate 50 meters of height difference is an insurmountable wall. We pretend that we are not at all interested in hunting and proudly crawl on.

At the next stop we discover the horns of such a capricorn and arrange a photo session with the artifact.

Once again we arrive at the parking lot with full confidence that it is about to start raining. We set up tents and an awning a step away from the trail, preparing for the rain.

We are standing at an altitude of about 3500 meters. The rice here takes an unbearably long time to cook - we probably simmered it for about 40 minutes until it boiled. I should buy a pressure cooker for such trips.

The rain scared us a little and evaporated again. I photograph the tent again under the moonlight.

The endless day seems to be over.

Day 6 Tourists Pass

In the morning the thermometer shows +3. To be honest, I expected it to be colder here at this altitude.

Again the food takes an infinitely long time to cook. While the millet was getting to condition, we managed to pack up the camp, wash the dishes and generally get some sleep. I urgently need a camp autoclave.

To our left is a beautiful glacier, to our right are the familiar reddish rocks.

Around 9 am we finally finish the tedious kitchen chores and go out onto the trail.

It looks like we spent the night on the last island of greenery. Then the massive grass ended - only lonely suicidal flowers.

We pass a huge puddle - a lake like yesterday, only there is still some water in it. Could these be communicating vessels?

In two hours we reached an altitude of 3900 from the parking lot. Here the snow zone and the final takeoff to the pass begin. I remind everyone that there is a glacier underfoot and even though it is tiny, there can still be cracks.

Everyone is walking cheerfully, there are no signs of altitude sickness.

At the Tourists Pass we arrange a lightning-fast photo session. Unlike the slope we climbed, it is quite windy here. I climbed the pass in a shirt and a thin Pertex windbreaker and, to be honest, I would have happily continued running. But people want to leave a passing note and thus we have a couple of minutes of time to take photographs.

While we were taking pictures, the Panama hat pulled tightly over my eyebrows was blown off my head. For such trips, you still need to attach self-insurance to ALL vital items of clothing and equipment.

On the descent, Zhenya decides to speed up the process and slides down the snowfield at the fifth point. It looks tempting, but it’s a little awkward and no one follows Zhenya.

Just half an hour after the pass we are already standing “below”. The bottom here is, of course, relative - the steep descent simply ended and a normal gentle path began.

The beastly appetite burst forth again. But we decided to hold on to the water so that we could make a lot of tea for lunch (we already have some tea in our thermoses). In such conditions, the kilometers themselves become longer. We crawl for a long, long time until lunch.

Finally, around 1:40 p.m., we find a stream and set up the burner.

After lunch, everything developed so quickly that I hardly took any photos.

We quickly ran to the confluence of the rivers and decided not to cross them (since we would still return to this bank) but to follow an inconspicuous path on our bank. Literally after 15 minutes it became clear why it was so overgrown - in one place, a landslide almost destroyed the path. You have to walk a couple of meters along a narrow and unreliable clay shelf. Of course, we did great - we managed everything, but there was definitely a risk.

Around 16:00 we camp for the night in a grassy clearing under the cover of a hill. There is a connection on the hill - I take my mobile phone and a seat and go to the top, to the negotiation room with the mainland.

After sunset, dew fell on the camp. This hasn't happened for a long time. At all previous stops the air was cold, but very dry.

I take a photo of the tent under the moon again. The results are still incredibly far from perfect.

Day 7 Big Almaty Lake

In the morning, while we were cooking breakfast, a military UAZ drove along the road over the hill. The road leads to the state border, so everything is logical. But the last thing we want to do is communicate with the border guards, so we are glad that we set up camp in a shelter.

The most difficult part of the hike seemed to be over and the people clearly relaxed in anticipation of the imminent civilization. We are assembling tents very slowly today. Nevertheless, we reach the trail on time. Have you become experienced, or what?

We start straight away in shorts and T-shirts. Beauty!

At about 11 am we are already on the shore of BAO (Big Almaty Lake). We have a picnic there with unlimited consumption of dried fruits and nuts.

While we were sunbathing and refreshing ourselves, three students from Barnaul came up to us to ask for directions. They've been circling here for a couple of hours, thinking about where to go. Initially, the guys were going to go up the river - to where our camp was. But the same UAZ stopped them and prohibited them from moving towards the border. It’s still good that we didn’t meet them.

We ask the students to take a photo of us (finally, a full group photo!) and tell us about our plans. They seem to be deciding to go in the same direction.

We go around the lake and numerous warning and prohibition signs scattered abundantly throughout the outskirts of BAO. You feel like a smuggler or a poacher, no less. Back in the USSR, baby!

But if you don’t read on the fences, but look at nature, then the place is heavenly.

We get closer (higher) to the fence of the Cosmostation and arrange a series of wonderful dumb-ass bastards.

Then the fun begins. Firstly, we have a long climb up the serpentine road ahead. And on each loop the group is chaotically divided - someone walks along the asphalt (far, but gently), someone cuts along the grass (steeply up and without a path).

Secondly, after another cut, we hear a stern shout from below. Probably the border guard, probably us, but he is 100% too lazy to follow us, and we are even more so. Therefore, everyone remains to his own - we continue to crawl upward, but he continues to stand.

At the next shortcut we find a cozy place for lunch. There really is no smell of water for tea here. It's a pity, because... The day turned out to be hot and many people are running out of water.

16:00 we are at the asphalted Jilu pass. Finally we leave the road and get onto the trail. Yesterday at this time we were already setting up tents. And here it looks like we still have to stomp down for a couple of hours.

Indeed, only at 17:45 we arrive at the parking lot at the Aleshkin Bridge. There is almost a forest here, there is firewood, there will be a fire!

Day 8 hot spring

Today we are entering civilization. In this regard, there is a completely complete relaxation of the group and at the same time an intensification of culinary dreams. All there is talk about is an evening trip to a restaurant.

Meanwhile, we overcome a scary crossing through pipes and scare away a large herd of goats that were grazing right at the tourist parking lot. Just imagine these animals - either they climb to the upper borders of the alpine meadows, where there is almost no smell of grass anymore, or they descend into the forest, right into the hands of hungry tourists.

Behind the birch grove we again descend to the river and find ourselves at a hot spring. This is a kind of iron booth in which there is a kind of fire hydrant (a pile of rusty pipes). You sit down on a board under this pipe and a stream of hot mineral water hits you between your shoulder blades. Bliss!

While we were swimming and having lunch, Almaty aunties came to the source. They came, and came here through the soon-to-know-what, specifically to take medicinal baths.

Immediately after the source, a relatively difficult section of the trail begins, where you not only have to walk, but also stick with your hands. Ours even strained themselves a little, clinging to the rocks. But everyone respected the grandmother-bathers even more. At 14:30 we are already on the asphalt. We call a taxi and go to the city.

After checking into the hostel and handing over our things to be washed, we went out for the evening promenade in Almaty. Everyone really wanted to try the branded Almaty apples (one of the grandmothers at the source spoke deliciously about them) Well, fresh pomegranate with ice cream and kefir. We were starving, in short.

We purposefully walk towards the cable car. With her help (yes, we can not only walk) we climb the Kok-Tebe hill.

We ride on the toboggan and look around. Cultural recreation, however.

Day 9 Charyn Canyon

It takes a full 4 hours to get to the canyon. During this time we managed to eat, buy more fruit, eat again and buy more bread.

The first hour in Charyn we were constantly surrounded by some noisy people. Either a group of Chinese tourists will come running, or local dudes in jeeps will stop by. But then clouds gathered over the canyon; those who came in large numbers were frightened by the thunderstorm and disappeared, leaving us alone with nature.

While my companions were trying to look into every micro-corridor of the canyon, I started photographing gophers.

But for some reason this thing reminded me of the collapsed imperial cruiser from the 7th part of Star Wars.

We had lunch by the river under a canopy (as I said, everyone ran away) and headed back.

Just like yesterday, immediately after lunch the adventures with elements of rock climbing began. To climb from the canyon to the upper road, I had to crawl a little on all fours.

But at the top, new perspectives opened up and in general one could breathe more freely.

I was completely delighted by this photo party. A girl in a short yellow dress poses against the background of a canyon. I wonder if she came there wearing heels or if she thought of taking replacement shoes?

Then there were a very tiring 4 hours of the way back (we were sleeping, the driver was steering) and a trip to a Georgian restaurant. Don’t be surprised, yes - while we were in Kazakhstan, we went to eat not beshbarmak, but Adjarian khachapuri.

Day 10 Alpine rose

Thanks to good weather and a storm in one place, we completed the planned route along the Trans-Ili Alatau TWO DAYS faster than expected. It was decided to use the freed-up time not for car excursions (yesterday everyone was busy on the road), but for another foray into the mountains. I urgently carried out reconnaissance on the Internet and found a suitable peak - Molodezhny Peak, not far from the BAO already known to us.

We already had the groceries, the laundry was returned, and the route track was found. We ordered a taxi (an eternal source of jokes) and drove into the mountains, to a place called Alpine Rose.

Of course, the route began with a hair-raisingly steep and hot, truly endless climb. Take a closer look, on the left side of the photo, below near the forest you can see the road from which we started.

But further on the trail calmed down a little and we stopped biting our elbows (you couldn’t sit in the city, etc.)

And after lunch, life got better. We reached the moraine and slowly began to climb onto it.

Very close, behind the same moraine ridge, a cargo helicopter landed. He brought provisions and fuel for the glaciologists' camp. These guys look after the mountain lake there - they release the water in time so that the mudflow does not wash away the city.

We found a flat area, wandered around a little in search of water, set up tents and began to warm ourselves up. The altitude is more than 3500 meters - it will obviously be cold here at night.

Of course, I didn’t go to bed on time, but started taking pictures of the tent against the backdrop of the Milky Way. Complete delight in the process, and not a single sharp frame (as it later turned out on the large monitor).

Day 11 Peak Molodezhny

We woke up at 5 am, i.e. It's still dark. At 6, breakfast was ready, and at 7 we set out for the climb.

To the top we had to gain about 600 meters of altitude and walk a little over 2 km horizontally.

The trail was lost in the powder in places and it was not very comfortable to walk then, but the scenery was beyond praise and more than compensated for all the inconveniences.

And when we got to the snow, walking became very easy. You just had to look around so as not to accidentally jump out onto the ledge.

Just 2 hours and 20 minutes after the start we were already drinking tea at the top. Height is about 4100 meters.

The main joke was that from the top we could see our first stop at the mudflow dam - the same place where 10 days ago the hospitable Tanshan weather greeted us with snow and rain.

We checked in the logbook installed at the top and wandered around the plateau a little in search of a place to have a snack. Our mega-stocks of nuts and dried fruits continued to require increased attention.

On the way back, we managed to see the glaciologists’ tent camp - the same one that the helicopter visited yesterday.

As always, the descent on loose powder was much easier and faster than the ascent. We rolled to the tents with lightning speed and put the kettle on the burner... Do you understand how hard life was for us (how often we had to eat)?

Then everything was familiar and I no longer took photos. The only funny moment on the way back to the asphalt was with a man in a black balaclava. We were walking along a narrow ridge and looking for a place to stop when this suspicious guy in a mask appeared from behind and began to catch up with the group. Terrorist? Smuggler? Drug mafia?.. Most likely a glaciologist student. He approached the group, shook my hand and ran on his way...

In Almaty, we again ate at our favorite canteen, looked for souvenirs and made plans for the future. You won’t believe it, but we already wanted to return to the mountains. Fans were chosen as the next goal, and we planned a hike along them for August next year...