Equipment for winter hiking in the Carpathians

The choice of equipment for a winter hike in the Carpathians is determined primarily by the expected weather. And we expect to encounter: constant strong wind, deep snow (at least knee-deep), temperatures from -15 to +2, sleet with rain, high humidity. To effectively cope with all this over the course of several days, you will need 18-20 kg of equipment, clothing, food and fuel. Fortunately, much of this stuff will be on you at all times and you won't have to carry it in your backpack.

If you have never been on winter or high mountain hikes before, then you may be faced with the fact that you need to buy too many things to prepare for this trip. Don’t be alarmed, there are almost always budget-friendly ways to get the necessary equipment - rental, second-hand, using existing resources. Feel free to ask - we will tell you which equipment is best to choose in your particular case.

Clothes and shoes

Boots.

The optimal shoe option for winter hiking in the Carpathians are all-leather hiking boots without insulation. It is necessary to have full lacing and a wide “neck” through which you can push your foot even into a boot that has frozen overnight. The insulation inside the boot (faux fur, fleece lining, Thinsulate layer) quickly becomes damp and is difficult to dry, which is why it is undesirable. The presence of a membrane (Goretex and the like) will not be superfluous, but is not a key factor for winter shoes. Before starting a hike, carefully and generously treat the surface of the boot with a special product - a wax impregnation that protects the skin from moisture. Some tourists successfully use “plastics” on winter hikes in the Carpathians, i.e. plastic climbing boots. They do not get wet and therefore do not freeze; their inner boots are easy to dry. The only negative is that they are uncomfortable to walk in. Especially when there is little or no snow (on asphalt, on bare stones). Felt boots like insulated boots with a high top and rubber galoshes are also sometimes taken on hikes. They are warm and almost waterproof on the outside, but the foot sweats even in winter and the shoes sooner or later become damp. And drying such boots is very difficult (too thick). In addition, such shoes often do not fit tightly on the foot (there is no proper lacing) and can severely rub the foot, chew through socks, and fall off the foot along with snowshoes stuck in a snowdrift.

Shoe covers.

For winter hikes in the Carpathians, instead of the usual shoe covers (which would be more correctly called gaiters), it is better to use closed shoe covers. They protect not only your calves and the junction of the boot with your pants from snow, but also the entire boot, including the sole. Closed shoe covers come with rubber galoshes (homemade or branded) - they are more durable than all-fabric ones and slip less on ice. But shoe covers and galoshes are usually not insulated. The layer of insulation in shoe covers not only helps keep your feet warm. It also absorbs a significant part of the moisture (both external and internal). As a result, it is in the thickness of the insulation, and not in the walls of the boot, that the processes of condensation, crystallization and gradual evaporation of moisture occur. We will be walking in deep snow (which means wearing shoe covers) almost the entire time, only on the first and last days of the hike; not far from the villages there may be sections of snow-free road where you can just walk in boots.

Socks.

It is the socks (and not the insulation in the boot) that should be the main “warming” element of winter shoes. Socks, unlike boots, are easy to dry or simply replace. On winter hikes, I usually wear two pairs of socks at once. The first layer is thin (without terry) elastic trekking socks. They are seamless, fit tightly on the foot and quickly wick away moisture. This helps avoid calluses, dropsies and abrasions. The second layer is thick fleece or knitted wool socks, which provide excellent warmth even when slightly damp. You must have at least two such running kits. Plus one more warm and SPACIOUS (so as not to interfere with blood circulation) socks for sleeping.

Thermal underwear.

We will put on thermal underwear (top+bottom, jacket and pants) on the train and will not take it off until the end of the trip. Therefore, it should be as comfortable as possible - dry quickly (only synthetics or wool! no cotton!), not pinch blood vessels, and cover the lower back. You should not take thermal underwear that is too thick - after all, the purpose of the underwear is not to warm you up, but to quickly remove sweat into the upper layers of clothing. It is advisable that the underwear be “thermal”, i.e. made not from cotton, but from fine synthetics, such as Polartec PowerDry fabric.

Self-resets and trousers.

There are two options for leg insulation: proper and budget. In the first case, the set consists of thin running trousers (without insulation) and warm self-release trousers (with zippers along the entire length of the leg). During the day we wear thin trousers over thermal underwear, and at rest stops and in case of worsening weather we wear self-reset pants directly over the trousers. Thanks to zippers, we can do this without taking off our boots and snowshoes. But the problem is that self-dischargers are a relatively rare guest in our stores. And not everyone is ready to spend money on them. That’s why a budget set of leg insulation was invented, consisting of ski pants and thin sports trousers. We wear thin pants only on the train, and in case of extreme heat while hiking. The rest of the time they travel in a backpack (just in case). And you walk along the route in ski pants. Theoretically, by removing and putting on underwear under your ski pants, you can still regulate the "temperature" of your legs. But you can only do this in the morning, sitting in a headscarf, and having an extremely superficial idea of ​​the weather awaiting you. You are unlikely to dare to change clothes during the day in the wind. But ski pants can be bought very cheaply (found at a thrift store).

Fleece

Another “non-removable” item. Shouldn't be too thick. If you are afraid of freezing, then it is better to take two thin fleeces (Polatec 100 or Polatec 200, also known as Classic) than one as thick as a mammoth skin. Personally, I take one fleece, and for additional insulation I take a light vest (Sherpa Vajra Vest) or jacket (Montane Flux) with Primaloft insulation.

Walking jacket (windbreaker).

The main task of this jacket is to protect from the wind. The wind in the winter Carpathians sometimes reaches monstrous strength and can literally “lay” you on the snow. Therefore, the jacket should be windproof, with a good hood (deep, with drawstrings, that will not fly off your head in a headwind). It is quite possible to use a ski jacket as a running gear. But due to the weakly breathable membrane surface, the inner layer of the ski jacket will constantly sweat and then take a very long time to dry. In winter, membranes do not work well - moisture constantly accumulates on their inner surface, periodically turning into frost. Therefore, on winter hikes, I prefer perfectly breathable windbreakers made of Pertex, Avisent, parachute or other membrane-free fabric.

Warm jacket (down jacket)

We need a large, warm jacket to quickly and thoroughly insulate ourselves during short rest stops and in the evening when setting up camp. This jacket should easily layer over your running jacket. It is not so important whether it is down or syntapon (primaloft). Just an average down jacket weighs 600 grams, and a padded jacket similar in warmth to it weighs twice as much. Options like “I don’t have a puffer jacket, so let me take 4 sweaters in addition to my ski jacket” are completely unacceptable. In a snowstorm, standing in the wind, you won’t be able to “pry” an additional insulating layer under your ski jacket, and 3 sweaters won’t fit in there. But throwing on a second jacket, which you will prudently wear right under the backpack flap, is a matter of two seconds.

Windproof mask.

A fleece mask not only protects from the wind, but also warms the inhaled air, which reduces the risk of colds while hiking. It is better to take not a one-piece balaclava-balaclava, but a half mask with Velcro that covers only the lower half of the face. In any case, the areas of the windproof mask in contact with the mouth and nose should not be made of fleece, but of neoprene (the porous rubber from which wetsuits are made). Otherwise, the wet rag will constantly stick to your nose:)

Ski mask.

The cold wind constantly makes your eyes water and your eyelashes freeze. In a ski mask (with a double lens!) it is much more comfortable to move along the ridge against the wind - it is warm and dry. The main thing is not to take it off too often and not to wear it on your forehead - it will become frozen. The correct algorithm - you put it on once, the mask fogs up, you don’t panic and wait, the mask warms up, the fog goes away, your eyes are warm and beautiful (the orange filter adds cheerfulness to the cold snowdrifts).

Cap.

If the hood of your jacket protects your head reliably enough, then you won’t need earflaps. A regular hat made of fleece or windblock will be sufficient (this material is not blown by the wind). We not only wear a hat during the day, but also sleep at night.

Gloves and mittens.

My standard kit consists of fleece gloves, waterproof mittens and insulated mittens. I wear fleece gloves all the time - both during the day on the route and in the evening at the bivouac. Of course, they get wet easily, but they dry just as quickly (if you don’t take them off and continue to work). At night I dry them in my sleeping bag so I can start the day with dry gloves. I wear over-the-top mittens if the wind picks up (and my gloved hands get cold) or if I have to deal with snow (to build a protective wall for a tent). I save insulated mittens in case the frost becomes absolutely brutal, or if, despite the presence of safety elastic bands, one of the components of the pair of gloves + tops is lost. Ski gloves are also suitable for hiking, but like ski jackets, they tend to take a long time to dry due to their poorly breathable outer shell. Having spare gloves or mittens is a must! Learn to button clothes, tie shoelaces and operate a camera without taking off your gloves.

Raincoat.

Winter means not only frosts, but also unexpected thaws, when wet snowfall can give way to cold rain. Such rain often turns into an icy crust as soon as it reaches your jacket. This is not as scary as it seems, but you still shouldn’t get wet and freeze - subsequent drying requires too much effort. It’s better not to be lazy and take a raincoat on a winter hike. This could be a raincoat-poncho or a waterproof jacket made of membrane or silicone. The raincoat should be spacious enough to fit even over the down jacket.

Equipment

Snowshoes.

In winter, there can easily be more than a meter of snow in the Carpathians. In such conditions, moving around in boots alone, without skis or snowshoes, is unrealistic (speed drops to 500 meters per hour). Which snowshoes should you choose? (skiing trips are a separate story) Yes, almost any (plastic, frame or tubular, homemade). In our country, this is still a rather rare type of equipment and there may simply not be a choice. Huge (more than 80 cm in length) snowshoes are not needed for loose snow on a mountain hike - a size of 20 by 60 centimeters will be quite enough. The best manufacturers are TSL and MSR. Plastic ratchet fastenings perform better in the cold than simple belts with buckles.

Cats.

Real ice is rare in the Carpathians, but you can easily run into icy firn. You can't break it with a boot; snowshoes (even those with teeth) don't hold well. That's why cats are needed. Any - hard, soft, Soviet. The main thing is that you have them and that they can be put on your boot and your shoe covers (practice at home). "Anti-slip" for cats will save you from the need to periodically knock snow off your soles.

Backpack.

Winter gear is usually quite bulky. Therefore, you need a large backpack - 80 or more liters. Check that the side ties are long enough to secure the snowshoes. Think about how to attach the shovel and trekking poles. Be sure to take a waterproof cover for your backpack. But don’t rely only on it - pack all the things inside the backpack in hermetic bags (they are more convenient, reliable and durable than garbage bags). After all, when you start rummaging through your backpack, you lay out its contents directly on the snow. And we will rummage through our backpack at least 3 times a day.

Sleeping bag.

At night, the temperature in the tent rarely drops below -5. But this does not mean that you can take a sleeping bag “at -5”. To sleep normally at night, you need a sleeping bag with a comfort temperature of at least -10 (preferably -15) and weighing 2-2.5 kg for synthetic insulation and 1-1.5 kg for down. Be prepared for the fact that due to the abundance of condensation in a closed tent, your sleeping bag will quickly begin to get wet. And then you will have a choice - sleep in a cold puddle or open the inside of the tent wide all night (there will be few ventilation meshes). True, then the temperature may drop below -10. But we have a magical “warm jacket” - cover yourself with it inside your sleeping bag and immediately warm up. Of course, when carried in a backpack, the sleeping bag should also be packed in a sealed case.

Rug.

An ordinary summer rug (for example, Izhevsk) is not enough for winter. You should at least take 2 year olds with you. Or buy a thick winter mat - like the Therm-a-Rest RidgeRest Solar. With a thickness of 2 cm, its weight is 540 grams, which is much less than the weight of two Izhevsk karemats (each weighs 450 grams), which have the same thickness in total. Self-inflating mats are even thicker and warmer, but we must not forget about the mandatory repair kit (patches and glue). I myself like to sleep comfortably (i.e. warm and soft), and therefore I take a set of a shortened air mattress Exped Downmat 7 (length 120 cm, weight 500 g) and the already mentioned RidgeRest in the winter Carpathians.

Tent.

In winter, it would be nice to have an extreme series tent - with increased wind resistance and a snow skirt. But it’s clear that not everyone has a warehouse of tents at home, and therefore they have to make do and make do with what they have. In order not to act at random, write to us what kind of tent you have (manufacturer, model, number of seats, weight, link to the website). After studying all this, the instructor will decide whether your tent is suitable for a winter hike or not. If not, we will try to hook you up with other participants. In winter, the luxury of living alone in a two-person tent is unacceptable. Firstly, it makes already heavy backpacks heavier, and secondly, it’s warmer with your neighbors. On some trips we generally take a large 9-person tent (it weighs only 9 kg) and live together.

Trekking poles.

Poles are a must in winter. During the day they help you walk, at night they act as an additional anchorage for the tent. If you have a choice, you should give preference to poles with a clamp-type locking mechanism (Black Diamond Flicklok) rather than with traditional pin-dowels. The latter are almost impossible to adjust in the cold, and if slightly damp in the snow they can suddenly collapse. To prevent the poles from falling into the snow, purchase large-diameter “winter” rings for them.

Headlamp.

In winter, daylight hours are very short - we will set up camp in the evening, prepare dinner and breakfast, and assemble tents in the morning by the light of flashlights. This is more than 6 hours daily. Therefore, the presence of a diode headlamp for every tourist is a matter of principle. The manufacturer is not that important. Don't forget a spare set of batteries - in the cold the flashlight can run out very quickly.

Anti-avalanche equipment.

Depending on the planned route, the current state of the snow cover and other factors, the instructor may decide on the need for one or another level of providing participants with avalanche equipment. If you have an avalanche transceiver (bipper), a folding shovel or an avalanche probe, be sure to write to us.

Other

Dishes and thermos.

In winter, a thermos is added to the standard mug-spoon-bowl-knife. Definitely metal, not glass. Recommended volume is 1 liter per person. During the walking day, we will not have time to melt snow and make tea, so the thermos will be your only source of drink (and warmth). If the thermos has a normal glass lid, then you can save money and not take a mug. On the other hand, food cools down very quickly in the cold, so it would be logical to take a large thermal mug instead of a plate and eat from it (and drink from the thermos lid). The instructor takes the boilers for cooking, a gasoline burner, a ladle and other kitchen items. During the distribution of food at the station (about 900 grams per day of travel), you will also receive plastic bottles of gasoline for carrying (at the rate of 100-150 ml per person per day). Before shoving them into your backpack, pack the bottles in trash bags.

Electronics

All your electrical devices (camera, mobile phone, player) must be reliably protected from moisture. The trunk (camera case) must be equipped with a waterproof cover against rain and snow. There will be separate sections along the route where you can pick up a mobile signal. Usually these are open places - peaks. The rest of the time you should keep your phone turned off. This will save battery power, which is better to remove altogether (so that it drains less). It is clear that there are no sockets along the route. Therefore, for actively used equipment, you need to take spare batteries (for example, I have 6 replaceable batteries for my camera). Moreover, in the cold the batteries behave unpredictably... Which seems to hint at the need to constantly carry spare batteries in a warm place, i.e. in a fleece pocket. If everyone has a walkie-talkie, write us its name, maybe it will come in handy on a hike. We usually equip the instructor and trail leader with walkie-talkies. But if the group is large, then additional radios may be needed.

All sorts of little things.

Money, documents and toilet paper must be sealed. You won't need soap or a towel. Instead of toothpaste, which you will most likely be too lazy to use, try brushing your teeth with warm tea - it is much easier and no worse. It makes sense to include a complex of minerals (in the form of effervescent tablets) in the personal first aid kit. The fact is that a significant part of our food and drink will be prepared using water extracted from melted snow. It is almost devoid of essential minerals. The body may react to such a distillate with sudden heartburn or frequent cramps.

Clothes for the train.

A change of underwear, a clean T-shirt and slippers will help make your post-hike stay on the train more comfortable. These and other unnecessary things in the mountains (such as suitcases, books, chargers) can and should be left during the hike in a storage room at the Ivano-Frankivsk station. It costs about 10 hryvnia per day. Usually we team up with several people and storage is even cheaper.