Ascent tactics

To make a route of an ascention is means to plan on maps and under descriptions a way up to the basic camp at the top chosen for an ascention, and to plan then the provisional scheme(plan) of the ascention. At drawing up of a route initial data are given by geography of the given district (and its(his) climate): in average height of a ridge, in height and a category of difficulty of the planned top, a season and the month, chosen for an ascention. The geography of district gives data on character mountain to a chain, its(her) land forms, a degree of an icing and height of a snow line, a climate and a direction of a ridge. The average height of all ridge specifies to us the certain(specific) conditions of a life in the given mountain district and on height of tops. Movement on high-altitude district (Pamir or Tien Shan) is interfaced(integrated;linked) to a lot of difficulties. To reach only up to podnozhja tops, it is quite often necessary to pass(take place) the big way on high land and together with pack transport to overcome on a way stormy mountain streams, high snow passes, long ice cellars. All this demands special preparation, equipment, agents and time.

High-altitude ascentions represent the big section of climbing technics(technical equipment). Ascentions on greater(big) heights are bound to work at very low temperature, with necessity of acclimatization and duration of the ascention.

Season - the winter or summer - in many respects define(determine) character and conditions of an ascention. The low temperature, frequent storms, avalanches can make an ascention in the winter impossible. But it is possible to choose month when all these obstacles become surmountable for each district. Years(summer) ascentions also have the specific features, in each district there are months of rather stable weather. Only during stable weather it is possible to live long term in a zone above 3500 m, successfully having made some ascentions from one camp.

The choice of top for an ascention of the beginning(starting) climber is defined(determined) by knowledge of mountain district, data about character of top and its(her) technical difficulty and according to picked up by group. We especially emphasize all importance of consecutive rising of difficulty of ascentions on tops. Only in this case the beginning(starting) climber will comprehend(overtake) those features of backpackings which, being summarized in the course of time, and develop in the complex of knowledge united by concept of experience. Having begun(started) with light(mild) tops and having seized(having taken possession) them, it is possible to pass to averages, then to difficult. It is necessary to struggle severely with any displays of recklessness and adventurism in mountaneering - they lead to victims.

The ascention on any top can be broken into two cores of a stage: a way up to a place of the basic camp and a way from the basic camp up to top. The second stage in turn shares on a yield(an exit) on a crest and a way on it(him;them). Each of these stages of a way is characterized by the features, the rate of rise, the difficulties and hazards. Passage of passes often enters as a constituent of an ascention up to a yield(an exit) on a crest.

Data on the selected(elected) top develop both of personal observations, and from descriptions. It is necessary to familiarize with pictures. Comparison of various photos will help(assist) to choose ways to top and to make the scheme(plan) of an ascention, and some good photos of the previous ascentions from approaches to top will allow to expect those difficulties which it is necessary to meet. Clearly, that all this does not concern almost to pervovoshozhdenijam.

Schemes(Plans) of an ascention can be one-day or with one intermediate camp for spending the night, or lasting many days when intermediate camps are arranged some. On character of preparation of intermediate camps this scheme(plan) shares on the intermediate camps organized during movement to top, and the intermediate camps prepared in advance by preliminary zabroski of products and equipment. Such it is by ordinary podymajutsja on tops of prime grades of difficulty and the tops which are being at the big height where acclimatization is required.

All the collected data are supplemented with investigation of a way which finally quite often solves success of an ascention as development of the final scheme(plan) and the plan of an ascention is made on the basis of investigation.

At the first stage of investigation the place of the basic camp is finally found out, the beginning of an ascention is defined(determined) geographically. That camp which leave on an ascention is called as the basic camp. All the camps organized during an ascention between the basic camp and top, are called intermediate. Up to the basic camp can be broken and other camps on a way of movement to the core.

On distant and greater(big) expeditions(dispatches) to a zone of meadows the base camp where the caravan stops, waiting assault group is normally broken. In conditions of Caucasus base camps are those huts, shelters and educational camps from which climbers send to top. In the basic camp all delivery and the equipment necessary for an ascention and for a return way up to base camp concentrates. How much close it is necessary to throw the basic camp to bottom of top or above, depends on calculation of time of an ascention. To reduce time of an ascention, it is desirable to throw the basic camp probably above. But the organization of camp demands many forces and time, therefore for it(him) choose such item(point) from which it is convenient to begin an ascention, and in case of a bad weather easy and is rather harmless to return to camp. All this concerns to those ascentions when draining off goes on the same way, as rise.

The second stage of investigation plans a way to the top, gives the scheme(plan) of an ascention. Each top lays in any ridge, sometimes it is unit - a joint of ridges. Ribs depart from each top. The way to top passes(takes place) on crests of these ridges and on ribs. Such orientation is most simple, and besides the way on a crest is more safe than any other way. Investigation solves as well as where to leave on a crest.

At rise on a crest, depending on character of a slope-snow, an ice, rocks,-choose a way in view of all hazards (an avalanche, rockfalls, a bad weather). Precisely having defined(determined) a way, start calculation of time. Calculation of time for an ascention depends on height of top above sea level, a season, time of day, a degree trenirovannosti and hardiness of the weakest participant of group, toughness and character of slopes.

There are many attempts of objective definition of rate of promotion on various slopes.

At promotion on easy slopes (at a minimum of technical difficulties) with a load decreasing in process of rise from 16 up to 10 kg at eight-hour work, rate of movement will change approximately as follows: from 2500 up to 3500 m--220-230 of m at an o'clock, from 3500 up to 4500 m--175-180 of m at an o'clock, from 5000 up to 6000 m--50-70 of m at an o'clock. On slopes without special technical difficulties (the number of difficulties includes also greater(big) toughness) draining off demands 55-65 % of time of rise, but it all the same only approached digit. On very difficult rocks draining off (without free draining off) quite often borrows(occupies) not less time, than rise.

Intermediate bivuak (one or the several) at an one-day ascention is framed for rest(tour), reception of nutrition, ostavlenija serious things and tent. If on the further way there are no rocks, will be not necessary rocky krjuchja if there were continuous rocks - cats are not necessary. Never hasten(hurry) to leave "superfluous" things until all way up to top will be clear and weather does not cause any doubts.

On an one-day ascention only light(mild) tent-th an event of a unexpected storm, casualty undertakes. There is no need to frame in advance special shelter from a bad weather if all ascention borrows(occupies) one day. At first attributes of a coming bad weather it is necessary was well-timed to stop an ascention and to be drained off in the basic camp. It is more safe to repeat once again attempt of an ascention, than to sit out in the upper cold camps, endangering the life.

Having reached(achieved) top, make pictures, copy notes previous voshoditelej, leave the note and, having had a rest, begin draining off. The ascention does not come to an end only with rise on top, ahead still draining off in the basic camp. Draining off is not less difficult and important, than rise, but about it(this) quite often forget. There are events, that the victory turns a head, vigilance weakens, and climbers are drained off without taking into account the passed(taken place) difficulties. The appreciable part of casualties in mountains occurs(happens) at draining off.

Let's disassemble the ordinary scheme(plan) of an ascention on easy top of the Caucasian ridge, the most accessible mountain district of the country. For an ascention top TSihvarga, 2-nd categories of difficulty is chosen. The top is in east part of Caucasus, in district Karaugomskom, in the gorge leading to pass Gurdzi-vtsek. The ascention is made in the summer. The height of top-4138 of m. Affinity of the sea causes a plenty of deposits. Winds and storms in this district are rare in the summer, but thunder-storms are frequent and snowfalls above 3000 m. In district good stable weather lasts from second half of July and up to the extremity(end) of August.

TSihvarga basically-snow top. The site of rocks is very insignificant. To the extremity(end) of August the snow settles out and turns to an ice. Therefore lightest to make an ascention till August, 15th. The way to podnozhju tops is facilitated by that he coincides with a direction of the track going to pass Gurdzi-vtsek. On this track reach the extremity(end) of a moraine on ice cellar Fastag (3100), the basic camp from which lead an ascention here is broken.

There is no sense to throw camp above. Investigation shows, that above prior to the beginning of the ascention of hazardous places is not present and in case of a bad weather or a fog it is possible to be drained off safely in camp. By calculation of time an ascention (rise and draining off) is made for one day. The prepared group having experience of ascentions on tops of 1-st or 2-nd category of difficulty, needs 10-11 business hours. To spend forces on zabrosku camp above there is no need, to put camp below the extremity(end) of a moraine is inexpedient, thus the way up to top is too extended.

Investigation has shown, that the data collected up to journey are correct. To rocks leads snow kuluar, by all data, a нелавиноопасный-snow old, dense, the basis not ice, toughness small, is not present traces of avalanches. The yield(exit) from the basic camp is planned for 4-5 o'clock in the morning, at this time it is the most safe to pass(take place) kuluar, and rocks by then when will approach(suit) to them, will be enough nagrety the sun.

Intermediate bivuak it is necessary to break behind rocks. To foresee in advance all difficulties it is impossible, but as it is known, that after rocks the snow slope begins, it means, that it is necessary to overcome ice domes or bergschrund. Cats and ice krjuchja can be necessary.

At an ascention on TSihvargu from 10 business hours of 6 hours borrows(occupies) rise and 4 hours draining off. To it(this) it is necessary to add time of rest(tour). Draining off passes(takes place) on a way of rise.

Having returned to the basic camp, climbers have a rest in him 1-2 days before a new ascention. If all ascentions from this camp are finished, the group is drained off in base camp. The scheme(plan) of an ascention on top of greater difficulty includes features of an ascention on light(mild) top and adds to it(this) specific features of the given top.

L. GUTMAN, WITH. HODAKEVICH, AND. ANTONOVICH. TECHNICS(TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT) OF MOUNTANEERING
The MANUAL FOR BEGINNING(STARTING) CLIMBERS

It is approved by section of mountaneering of All-Union committee on affairs of physical culture, and sports at SNK USSR

The STATE PUBLISHING HOUSE “ PHYSICAL CULTURE and sports ” Moscow 1939