Figures on stones

Written by Сон Тамара, Челябинская область the Report on a hike across mountain Crimea from June, 29th till July, 4th 2008. Simferopol has met us gloomy dozhdichkom. A meeting, acquaintance, distribution of products on backpacks. In our group 9 person, not including conductor Tarasa: three family pairs, mum with the son-teenager and Andrey Bolshoj. In parallel with us on the same route two more groups, with conductors Anna and Andrey sent.

In hammered by people and backpacks a trolley bus « Simferopol - Alushta » have reached up to picturesque Perevalnogo. Taras has told: - Ishachka unpleasant, but it(she) should be passed(taken place), it will be then easier. And here we go... Around a wood. Through the sweat flowing from me by the rivers, through a rumble in a head, it is difficult to me to understand, which is a wood. In general it is difficult to me to understand something, my heart fights somewhere in a throat, we go and we go, and all time uphill, very much zharko, stops at all do not help(assist), and, apparently, the end to it(this) will not be!!!

The wood has terminated, to breathe it became easier, the track wood has turned in stony, the kind on Perevalnoe has opened and hills behind it(him) … 10 steps - stand(cost). 10 steps - stand(cost). Ideas to turn back, all to throw (well, it(him) to hell! That it for holiday! Unless it is rest?) still is not present, but already very much I doubt of myself. I doubt, that I shall consult.

And here - top! The sky! Stones around! And from different directions such open space! And the wind tears a wet shirt from sweat! Also it would be desirable to shout!

- Well here, - speaks Taras, - now on Ishachej to a track upward and …
- On Ishachej?! - I almost shout. - as on Ishachej?!!! And it that was?!!!
Is … well so, the presentiment, - smushchenno smiles Taras.

And again uphill. Rest only dreams us. Along a track meadows were stretched(dragged out): a wild meadow, chabrets, limonnik. All in color, very beautifully. Continually Taras tears on vetochki limonnika and puts in a pocket - in the evening we will have a tasty tea. The wind blows. And any more so it is difficult to go. Last site is especially abrupt. With the certain interval that with one, on the other hand from a track - small barrows from white stones. These are labels - in the winter a track sweeps up, and labels help(assist) to not go astray.

Upward I hardly creep. The happiness also begins! We lay among grasses, we have dumped(reset) backpacks, we catch lips a wind, we look afar where the mountains, the opened fields on hills, an azure spot(stain) of a water basin … we conduct thoughtless conversations, we laugh at jokes Tarasa, we listen bajki Big Andrey. We know, that now we shall go on jajle, that is across, and it too - happiness.

- My God, what we all the same happy! - Alla exclaims, - on a hill have got - happiness!
Halt have declared(announced) - happiness!
Backpack you remove - happiness!
It is so much happiness for one day, such portions! Houses in a life such do not happen!
Its(Her) son Nikita vaguely sniffs.

On jajle we meet a civilization: roads, people, machines(cars). Here a cave and it is a lot of tourists from coast. Taras chooses parking at the Marble cave, in dubovo-лещинной to a grove. Waters are not present. Water in cafe at a cave. For 5 griven from the person to us allow to use her(it), but watch(keep up) each movement. All right, all clearly, hard with water …

- Further everywhere there will be springs, - consoles us Taras.

We went to the Marble cave. Hardly I can comment on it. Me it somehow has too impressed, all these huge stones, stalactites, stalagmites, columns, all these(thus) wonderful(strange) accumulate, similar to monsters and animals, booming height of the Landslide hall. It was not trusted in any way, that all this is made by the nature, it seemed - properties, a model for film. To touch walls in a cave it is strictly forbidden. But I have cautiously touched. Not a model. Cold and damp. Very present(true).

On this parking, our first spending the night, certainly, there was no wildness(absurdity). Nearby wooden toilet, music … But when at night I have left tent in the evening was audible and has looked in the sky, there there were such stars … what happen only on the native land, in the childhood, moreover in Crimea.

Since morning the husband has made to me a staff of a branch of a hazel grove. Taras has promised, that I shall leave it(him) on the approach to the Hangar-breaker, there supposedly each gram is felt. chatyr-даг me frightened.

Yesterday Taras has shown, where we should rise, and I in myself did not trust. Morning was fresh, we send(have left) are vigorous and cheerful, went on bottom plateau chatyr-дага, among islands blossoming chabretsa and steljushchegosja a juniper. The step was vigorous and cheerful, we even have refused pair halts. And suddenly, suddenly, us has covered with a rain. So it is sharp, that we hardly had time to pull capes on backpacks. The ascention also has begun.

the Hangar-breaker, 1500 above sea level. A breaker in translation(transfer) - a woody hill. We send(have left) to breakage. The fog below curled. My God, - I there and then, - same not have understood a fog, this cloud! It was hooked for the Hangar-breaker, and the wind tears it(him) in pieces and bears(carries) in a precipice. We stood on edge(territory) and it would be desirable shout because, that simply there is such place on the ground.

Again upwards. On a track - hieroglyphs mozhzhevelovyh roots and a spot(stain) of white stones. The wind amplified. The above, the more angrily. The wind hurriedly turned to an ice and beat on us ice bullets. Each step was given hardly. And if not a staff, I, probably, would not climb up. A wind took down in a precipice. It is severe chatyr-даг! Oh, it is severe! We went on edge(territory) of breakage, having muffled in jackets and capes from a rain. There were no forces to turn back but when I have reached top and has looked back, at the passed(taken place) way, on a valley spread for us, I have seen our parking at the Marble cave and those hills for Perevalnym which we saw with Ishachki … Really, it of that costed!!! But I shall tell fairly, as on spirit: the life demanded such overcoming of from me only during the moment of a birth of children (you already, probably, have understood, that from me very low level of preparation and the physical form so-so).

Risen on Hangar-breaker Taras gave out candies. What tasty there is a barberry!!!

On light green the Hangar-breaker here and there white rocks. Below: road, base, any village, woods, below - a life, here - soaring. We should go also on the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker, one more top chatyr-дага, but all so have strongly got wet and have frozen on a wind, and from the Э¬Ѕїєї-breaker the downpour again approached, and has been decided to go down in a beechen wood, on spending the night.

We have passed(have taken place) on jajle (with Turkic - a years(summer), solar pasture; this such plateau at top of mountain. Unusually beautiful. Especially on chatyr-даге, all gold and belokamennoe), among blossoming grasses and ant hills also have started to go down.

The rain has again gone. Road (clay and a stone) has washed away, I constantly fell and in general was convinced on own the priest what to go down more difficultly, than to rise.

At last, a beechen wood. A shock not smaller, than from chatyr-дага. Trees-elephants. I do not know, how other people concern to trees, but I in them am simply enamoured, therefore all road on a wood I would like to stroke each beech and to photograph, as at us in Urals Mountains I such never saw. As we Taras works as the forest warden, about trees it(he) knows extremely much. And it is very interesting about them tells. As if they its(his) good friends.

Have risen on spending the night on a glade among young beeches, near to a spring. Palaja foliage - rustling music. In a wood absolutely there is no grass, only leaves. The sun all was not. We merzli from damp clothes and the more merzli, the were more cheerful than a song and game. The wind at night has come. It(he) went on crones of trees seven-mile steps, equal, big, it(he) hooted all the night long somewhere there, highly and as well under it(him) it was slept!

And in the morning - there was a sun!

the Track on Demerdzhi to describe it is impossible. There Are no words in my lexicon, capable it to describe. Simply it needs to be seen. That is all over again all was very much budnichno. Have collected camp, long went through a wood, in shop send(have come) on Angarsk pass, have crossed Angarsk pass, again a wood, unpleasant, again uphill, again became nakrapyvat a rain.

And then we send(have left) on glade MAN.

Here my words also have ended.

On glade MAN from stones spirals and the circles passing in each other are laid out. On rocks flowers grow. When you cost(stand) on edge(territory) of breakage you feel a bird. And now always before us - the sea.

the Ascention on Northern Demerdzhi begins with a small rocky site, easy, any will consult. Then - on kozej to a track more or less across, but absolutely beside a precipice also it is necessary to concentrate, but such beauty around, that somehow does not concentrate! Below - Radiant, fortress Funa, horse club, Alushta, the sea (take with itself the field-glass! Necessarily!) … above all it(this) rises chatyr-даг on the one hand, Bubugan with another.

Vakh, what beauty! On pjatam for us there was a cloud. Again. For a dinner have risen to a saddle, between Northern and Southern Demerdzhi, opposite JUrkinyh rocks, in natural boundary Dzhurla. It has been decided to not break camp, and to leave volunteers (Nikita with callouses and Andrey Bolshogo with cold) with things, and to run on Southern Demerdzhi.

And only we have begun an ascention as has charged a rain! With a wind. Yes that this(thus) such! As soon as we uphill, so a rain and a wind! In general Southern Demerdzhi to us it was not gave. With chatyr-дага approached black (literally - absolutely black) clouds. Have returned to camp. Pending storms have put tents and have prepared for a storm. Olga Lebedeva has suggested to dance dance to the sun that weather to cajole. We have danced. Men, certainly, above us giggled. And it is absolutely vain! Because the storm has passed by and has looked out the sun! Have stayed the night in Dzhurle.

Morning was magnificent! Solnechno also it is windy. We go on Southern Demerdzhi. Nalegke. What there beauty! The sun, blossoming meadows, grasshoppers sing deafeningly … Below - the well-known Valley of Reductions. We sat on edge(territory) of breakage, by turns looked in the field-glass on Bubugan, chatyr-даг, aju-даг, the sea, Alushtu, on the kites soaring above us, and Taras told to us legends about these places. Beauty!

this day at us have descended(gone) from a route Alla with Nikita and Andrey Bolshoj. They through Radiant left to the sea. Nikita has rubred callouses, and in general they the first time have gone(send) to any hike and at once here in such! Andrey has strongly caught a cold. To leave it was sad. Such sincere there was a company …

Us remains seven, and we have gone(send) further. Natural boundary Dzhurla hozhenoe-»СУСхоженое a place, dirty and slovenly, reptiles-троповалы have dirtied all track, very unpleasantly. But it is short

Have risen up to the Arabian source (speak it(him) 300 years and water in it(him) sacred. I do not know, how about sanctity, but most tasty of everything, that we drank(saw) on a route), the track has turned to a footpath. Blockages of trees. A grass. Sensation of wild places.

Have risen on jajlu. To go on jajle - it is a pleasure. And the soul soars a body and has a rest. On a viewing platform have made a dinner. And long could not leave - so it was beautiful. From here the sea even more clearly was visible. And Fishing where we should finish a route. And even malorechenskuju church-beacon.. Rocks.

Skrjuchennye pines on them.
Taras has told:
- We shall go down in verhovja Haphala …
And all of us have amicably laughed. Because have learned to appreciate height. « To go down in verhove » is strongly, it is healthy.

Descent(Release) was heavy. Olga Sapozhnikova has ached (« the general(common) hrenovost »), at me has moaned left kolenka, and is serious. At each step - sparks from eyes. A beechen wood.

The stony track which has been filled up by huge beechen trees, fallen whether from a wind, whether from an old age. Roots through all track. Natural boundary Haphal. We have risen on a red glade, near to a mountain stream which somewhere below to turn to falls Dzhur-джур. Above us, above the highest trees - white rocks, foothills Tyrke.

All road us is accompanied with a wind. Fans on Ishachke, torments on chatyr-даге, rustles in crones of a beechen wood, blows off from a track on Northern Demerdzhi, brings a rain on Southern, pushes in a back on jajlah … And here we in Haphale.

Have gone down in verhove. Here grows krasnoknizhnyj a yew, at it(him) soft paws and a poisonous bark. Taras has told, that of it(her) did(made) cups earlier. In a gift to enemies. And like so have poisoned Mitridata. I do not remember, which. And the wind again sings the songs, somewhere is high, between stars. Haphal very beautiful place. But has put at all in it(this). In it(him) there is something especial, whether any secret that …

Good-bye, Haphal! From morning it is gone down to Dzhur-джуру. We go along the mountain small river continually forming baths. In one we have not sustained - were expiated. Water - oh! Taras has told somewhere +6 degrees. Invigorates! Places seem such on the present wild! But here we pass(we take place) rocky uchastochek, hung above the river … and we get in a civilization.

Hello people! What you sunburnt! What on you ridiculous jubochki both shorts! And dark glasses(spots)! And someone even on heels! Whence we? About, we therefrom (uncertain gesture somewhere upwards)! And there yes, there such … There simply other Crimea, unusual, not stereotypic. And we such proud protopali with the backpacks, dirty trousers and hair by beautiful Dzhur-джура. Here us have left(abandoned) Olga and Sergey, and remains us five.

To tell the truth, all we have got a bit tired by this moment. Well, we with Olga precisely. Has looked at us Taras and has solved, that on Karabi we shall not go. We shall reach a source over Alex and traversom, traversom up to CHiginitry. But somehow so has left … at all I do not know as, but in some hours to a course we send(have approached;have suited) to Karabi so close, that was simply silly to not rise.

And, certainly, from su-ата the rain has begun. And as! The Sign such: time we uphill, so from the sky a rain! Watered all the evening long. We send in addition(have reached) up to CHaban-CHokraka, have somehow dissolved a fire and have made a supper, have eaten in tents, knocking teeth about edges(territories) of mugs … and here has looked out the sun! As all the same here it is beautiful!!!!! It is not trusted, well, it is not trusted, that all will end already today, that so is fast... We Go on Karabi.

Any I have not seen « a lunar landscape », on the contrary, all very much solnechno and is bright. Upwards - downwards - and again upwards. Behind each new hill the sea is dreamed. Lizards sprinkle from under legs(foots). A strawberry. The sky sin. Here and CHiginitra. I Play for time, I go slowly. It would not be desirable to leave to the sea. And to leave it would not be desirable.

In CHiginitre it is not stopped. Time draws in. And it is a pity, there it is very beautiful. Vineyards. Roads. People. Here and Fishing. Hi, the sea! Long to you it was dear(expensive)!

I sit on a beach, I consider(examine) kameshki. On them hyphens and strips as if someone has drawn on them thin lines favourite plots. Here Ishachja a track and a cold of the Marble cave … here a rain above chatyr-дагом … and it blossoms a wild meadow on jajlah … it Taras tells to us tourist bajki at a fire … It was difficult? Yes, perhaps, that was.

But the first, that we have made, when have reached the Internet, it have rushed to look, what else there are routes at Cyril where we shall go next time …

- It is necessary to ask only again to Tarasu.
Certainly, to Tarasu, to whom else! Conductors, probably, all good, but in Tarasa we have directly fallen in love! And the most important - it(he) so loves Crimea! Really, seriously, and with all it is ready to share this love …

About, Ishachja a track, I never shall forget you! I shall not forget, because you have helped(assisted) me to understand, that that seems to us the purpose, it can appear only a presentiment, and forces, strangely enough, will suffice on all road because you are capable of greater, than even you for yourself have solved.

Son Tamara, the Chelyabinsk area