Ants in the sugar bowl
Information that you can apply in practice, waiting for you at the end of the text. So if you want to learn something useful on the track to the base camp of Mount Everest, it is better to rewind to the section "Really useful information." Below I will try to show the way to the base camp of the highest mountain in the world, as it is seen, heard, felt and I passed. Sit back, we are immersed.
Переводчик
" Up there , you will not find all the answers . You just see how big the world . " Dzhamling Norgay , «Touching my father's soul».
Optional personal part
Fly to Kathmandu via Delhi is much nicer than Sharjah. Airport " Indira Gandhi " smaller , cleaner, passenger flow is weaker. But everything else is the same - a lot of staff , a lot of uncertainty about what to do next and how long to wait. Miss with a group of tourists Czechs. Do nothing - except that lie on backpacks , read or eat.
Or watch.
That's essentially a nice American couple . In the 1980-1990 's, they lived in Kathmandu, have been the main trekking routes in the Annapurna and Everest. Now they live in Texas, and a son and daughter - on different coasts of the USA . Thirtieth daughter family decided to celebrate together, reaching , out of habit , to the base camp of Annapurna .
Here an elderly Indian woman gets out of the bag liter bottles of shampoos , ointments , gels and foams . Pogranichnitsa form looks at her longingly . Clearly, this is goodies grandchildren , and very sorry , and very her mother lavishes the same gifts , but you can not miss , because the regulations and orders , and the chief - a downer ...
That lady in sari trying to smuggle two plastic swords, very similar to the Jedi lightsabers . With three guards running around with swords . Pofehtovali them . Claimed to agree with someone. Probably someone with someone they too agreed or fought . The Sabres have lain down beside little room for inspection , but not in the box with Confiscated . And finally , sabers were returned passenger.
But an employee of the spa , thinking that nobody sees , rinse your feet in a pool of lotus ...
Finally announce our flight . Of Prime Minister Indira Gandhi we fly to King Tribuvanu . On board offer non-vegetarian and vegetarian menus . In the ports show Himalayan range .
Photography airport and trunks
In Kathmandu, we are waiting for instructors Kirill and Sasha , familiarity with the guide with the Nepalese side , a meeting with the group and is a very exciting process - weighing luggage. On the route will suffer heavy things Sherpa porters . To do this you need to buy in Kathmandu trunk ( here, in the tourist area of Thamel , with a reasonable bargaining ) and pack things in it . Standard distribution of Sherpas - one porter for two tourists . Normative baggage weight - not more than 30 kg per Sherpa . But in order to fly on an airplane for local airlines , must meet the 20 kg. In hand luggage no more than 5 kg, and we have this problem : one camera weighs 2 . In addition, there are things that I'm not ready to give up under any circumstances - a lightweight down jacket and trekking boots replacement . Dima is the same situation . As a result of our common trunk and weighs 14 kg , but Shoulder backpacks fully selected limit of 5 kg . More about 3-4 pounds and wearing a wound . Lhakpa , Nepali guide, soothes, this trick has to go .
Local airlines flying fun. On the morning before you go to the airport , the terminal local flights. Already in the parking lot you stun chug motors. Runway - next to the road . See how cheerfully soar into the sky twin-engine airplanes . They then ply mode minibuses.
Aviavokzala room like a hangar . Competition are local tourists with bags of potatoes and onions. Racks airline hangar located on the perimeter and called in the direction of flight : Makalu air flying towards the mountains Makalu , Manaslu air - to Manaslu ... Yeti airlines - universal .
Schedule as it is, but - mode minibuses. We are waiting for their turn , sitting on the trunks and continuing to get acquainted with his teammates on the track.
Suddenly - inspiring the masses ! In the hands of Lhakpa appeared tickets. Pass from hand to hand their simple luggage. Industrial scales show that we all fit in the limit. And that means - flying!
Plane Photos
And then we can understand why it is so important weight limit . Airplane appeared really tiny . Climb inside. Well, the truth and the taxi . Inside there is enough space for 14 people and a stewardess , which may even be straightened to his full height to hand out earplugs and caramel . Since the partition between the cockpit and the cabin is not available, you can see every action pilots. Airplane howls , growls , runs up , jumps - and shoots up . For pilots this routine. For us - an unprecedented attraction, which we will tell our friends .
The entire flight takes 40 minutes : 5 minutes for taxiing , 30 in the air.
Below - some winding roads, and then they disappear . Lhakpa shows his village from Kathmandu to her shuttle bus (10 hours on the road ) , and the stop - another 4-6 hours. But that's okay , did not exist before and that.
Landing at the airport of Lukla can be called soft : pilots have enough space and slow down , and turn around at the end of the runway and taxied to the terminal . While we jump out , take out our belongings , things will wear the next group and run the following passengers have time to read that the airfield is named after Sir Edmund Hillary climbed Mount Everest ( and , in parentheses , Tenzing Norgeya . Name Tenzing generally very often will appear on route ) .
Airport appeared in the 1960s , during the construction of the hospital in the nearest large settlement of Namche Bazaar . Nobody thought that he would be in such demand . Now this place is widely known - primarily due to the videos, which deftly airplanes take off from the band , which begins and ends with a cliff wall .
All Lukla represents one long street , consisting of shops and hotels. We have lunch - and immediately go on the road. Today the program overnight halfway to Namche Bazaar .
Road to Namche - the basis of the circulatory system of the Himalayan tract. Each chocolate and cola , which is bought at the top, passes along this road . Goes to meet tight and tanned raznoyazyky crowd . Attempts to say " namaste " frowned upon .
I'd love to say that the main impression of the first day on the trail became incredible beauty of rivers and gorges. Or long suspension bridges (although they, too ) . Or the endless cabbage fields . But no. The main impression the first day of the track - it's livestock. Buffaloes , oxen , asses in all shapes and forms . Laden with straw , gas cylinders (VERY hope empty ) food ... They are everywhere . They go together , front and rear. All of them, except for the donkeys , very peaceful and people really do not notice . But they take place and wander slowly so that I want to yawn . Accounts for as much as tack and presses all horticultural fences to overtake and not be jammed .
photo " explosive " donkey
Our first lodge called "Shangri - la ". Finding Neverland , the present Eldorado . Well, mnogoobezhayuschee beginning!
On the same day accept "rules" :
morning and evening we will measure heart rate and blood oxygen content . Special tool , or " clothespin ", have Cyril ;
every day should drink more 3 liters of water. Desirable - hot tea ;
breakfast pledge to have porridge or soup . We begin the route at a height slightly less than 3000 meters , and the hot liquid food - the best friend of the stomach.
Food Photography
The next day the storm the first " steep climb " - 600 meters curves steps. If the track to the base camp of Annapurna road lined with neat, almost lovingly , to the pebble stone , the route to Everest plates lie ... and thank god .
For the first time , from afar, see Everest. And officially enter the territory of a National Park Sagarmatha . Registration of all securities involved Lhakpa , and our role is to ensure that the forward and stomp on local issues to proclaim : " Lhakpa Sherpa ! ". If the spell does not work , sit down and wait for the most Lhakpa . Fortunately, it is not necessary to wait long .
Photo of a boy and girl at the well
Namche Bazaar is climbing up the mountain crater . We have not yet managed to wean away from civilization , but neon signs , an Irish pub with souvenir T-shirts ("I was drunk at a height of 3500 meters! ") , An internet cafe and coffee shop with its own pastry contrasted strongly with all that we have seen and will see in the route. And Namche - this is the last chance to careless tourists how to equip , arm yourself with warm clothes .
Civilization is relentless, it traps us in the rooms : each room has its own bathroom , and on the third floor for Rs 300 per person , you can take a hot shower .
Photos soul
Shower always lurks in the most unexpected place , takes many forms, but they are all different not promise comfort. Gas shower - this cabinet of roofing material or any scrap materials. Usually within a column , hose, you - and nothing more. Turn the knob - and the room is filled with clubs pleasant hot steam. The problem is that the water to turn it off as steam cools . Therefore, it is necessary to dress in sports pace. A 'cool' lodges shower is better ignored.
Funny, but above and beyond Namche we will not see any full or stout man . Probably , it is a city - mesh all fatties settle pub and buy their caps with inscriptions heroic Everest Base Camp, Makalu, Kalapatthar 5545 ...
Our lodge closer to the upper part of town, and in the evening the windows offer incredible views . Night and early morning heard methodical, deep, soothing hum - someone spins drum with mantras on a mountain top and hits the bell .
We hold dishes typically " rise - as slowly as possible down - as quickly as possible ." Therefore planned acclimatization foray into Kumdzhung - watch stored in the monastery yeti scalp . Scalp like a feral Nepalese crown pressed . Road unimaginably boring . But all species redeems first point to an array of Everest and Ama Dablam .
p>
Photo Namche . Photos of Radialka from Namche to Kumdzhunga
Path from Namche Bazaar in Dole - tedious " Tyagun ." Slowly up and down on ordinary deciduous forests ... Where fabulous riot subtropics which struck us on the way to Annapurna Base Camp ? Where giant blue butterflies ? All remaining kilometers below. Climatic zones , as layers in a cocktail or cakes in the cake , divide the mountains on visible areas . Entertain yourself glyadeniem the sides of the road and the reconciliation of experience with " performance eyepieces ." Incredible smell - it's probably the wrong tree , similar to the Japanese sakura cherry . Yes, exactly - it has some white berries . But arbutus, a little frostbitten . Here is the first ice waterfall.
When the going gets hard , I tell myself (and after - the girls from the group ) motivating tale. That's just around the corner , - DOLE Resort & SPA. Huge outdoor swimming pool , the water rises above the light steam . Beautiful Nepali girls spread guests cocktails. The hostess is already out of the lodge to meet us with a bucket of hot soup ... Oddly enough , the tale motivating.
I somehow forgot that we are in national parks . Local craftsmen much paint posters with various strange animals : barking deer, snow leopards , but almost dragons with basilisks . Though who would see it! And please - the right of the road peacefully browses bark deer! Fortunately, I go into the avant-garde group. We have three to five people before us and after us the road is empty and it is quiet. While feeding deer , we breathlessly trying to photograph her silently (pictured on the right somewhere ) . Finally, she removed with dignity . And we are waiting for a turn four pheasant. In the park hunting is forbidden . Animals just have not seen from any evil person . Get used to it , albeit with difficulty .
Photo olenihi
We have officially crossed the border to 4000 meters - a hamlet located at an altitude of about 4100 meters. Sleep on this occasion perfectly .
Way from Dole to Machermo - a vivid illustration of why you need to go the route early in the morning . Above us - snow . Beneath us - the land . During the night the road freezes and follow it comfortably. But it is necessary to warm the earth - and all under the feet of brown porridge . Go up to 3 hours, but it is not easy to meet us too go the group need to miss them . The road turns into a brown direction . Someone is trying to go higher , some lower. Soon becomes a matter of which three or four viscous ruts - " main " road . Terrible shame to see the snowy peaks of clean and slurp down.
Photos way to Machermo : road, flowers , " cotton " , Sasha and Katya looking map
In Machermo running clinic . Help can get free anyone - work item is sponsoring an international charitable foundation , and doctors are under contract for " interest" and the line in the biography : in America, most European countries and Australia with New Zealand ( where , incidentally , comes our doctor - lecturer) this is a very prestigious item in the summary.
Listen to a public lecture on the impact of altitude on the body and forms of mountain sickness (with pictures !) . After a really informative speech doctor takes the word representative of the International Association for the Protection of the rights of porters - there is such . Tells about the white man's burden (watch how many kilograms carries your Sherpa , what he wears , there is enough to eat ) . " Do any of you have a porter larger and more powerful than you? " - Asked the man menacingly . "I have ." - Squeaked tiny Indian.
At the end of the lecture , you can make a few good deeds: to measure the oxygen content in the blood for a symbolic 100 Nepalese rupees to buy souvenirs. We went even further: now in the infirmary there placard with signs of altitude sickness and in Russian .
Our next goal - Gokyo Lake . According to the description , this is the most high- freezing lake in the world . Some people from the group already feels height : average speed dropped , it becomes difficult to just walk up ( and someone - down here are all individually ) . But the sight of the first lake is worth it to overcome unpleasant ups and wind . Conveniently, each composed of a lake on the route " information desk " : on the plate are the coordinates of the lake and dimensions (length , width, depth - average , minimum and maximum ) .
Photo Gokyo
Surprisingly, the lake inhabited! On the second lake we notice Ogar - orange ducks. Because they not only see us, no doubt about it - they are real . Unfortunately, film them I did not succeed - the lake the size of a football field , and ducks swam about his business.
While we were looking in vain lenses Ogar , ran back very thick creeper . Her sister then not again cross the road in front of me . Not fast - " in a comfortable pace ." Them I did not filmed .
Переводчик Google для бизнеса –Инструменты переводчикаПереводчик сайтовСлужба "Анализ рынков"
Отключить моментальный переводО Переводчике GoogleМобильная версияКонфиденциальностьСправкаОтправить отзыв
Plane Photos
And then we can understand why it is so important weight limit . Airplane appeared really tiny . Climb inside. Well, the truth and the taxi . Inside there is enough space for 14 people and a stewardess , which may even be straightened to his full height to hand out earplugs and caramel . Since the partition between the cockpit and the cabin is not available, you can see every action pilots. Airplane howls , growls , runs up , jumps - and shoots up . For pilots this routine. For us - an unprecedented attraction, which we will tell our friends .
The entire flight takes 40 minutes : 5 minutes for taxiing , 30 in the air.
Below - some winding roads, and then they disappear . Lhakpa shows his village from Kathmandu to her shuttle bus (10 hours on the road ) , and the stop - another 4-6 hours. But that's okay , did not exist before and that.
Landing at the airport of Lukla can be called soft : pilots have enough space and slow down , and turn around at the end of the runway and taxied to the terminal . While we jump out , take out our belongings , things will wear the next group and run the following passengers have time to read that the airfield is named after Sir Edmund Hillary climbed Mount Everest ( and , in parentheses , Tenzing Norgeya . Name Tenzing generally very often will appear on route ) .
Airport appeared in the 1960s , during the construction of the hospital in the nearest large settlement of Namche Bazaar . Nobody thought that he would be in such demand . Now this place is widely known - primarily due to the videos, which deftly airplanes take off from the band , which begins and ends with a cliff wall .
All Lukla represents one long street , consisting of shops and hotels. We have lunch - and immediately go on the road. Today the program overnight halfway to Namche Bazaar .
Road to Namche - the basis of the circulatory system of the Himalayan tract. Each chocolate and cola , which is bought at the top, passes along this road . Goes to meet tight and tanned raznoyazyky crowd . Attempts to say " namaste " frowned upon .
I'd love to say that the main impression of the first day on the trail became incredible beauty of rivers and gorges. Or long suspension bridges (although they, too ) . Or the endless cabbage fields . But no. The main impression the first day of the track - it's livestock. Buffaloes , oxen , asses in all shapes and forms . Laden with straw , gas cylinders (VERY hope empty ) food ... They are everywhere . They go together , front and rear. All of them, except for the donkeys , very peaceful and people really do not notice . But they take place and wander slowly so that I want to yawn . Accounts for as much as tack and presses all horticultural fences to overtake and not be jammed .
Photo Namche . Photos of Radialka from Namche to Kumdzhunga
Path from Namche Bazaar in Dole - tedious " Tyagun ." Slowly up and down on ordinary deciduous forests ... Where fabulous riot subtropics which struck us on the way to Annapurna Base Camp ? Where giant blue butterflies ? All remaining kilometers below. Climatic zones , as layers in a cocktail or cakes in the cake , divide the mountains on visible areas . Entertain yourself glyadeniem the sides of the road and the reconciliation of experience with " performance eyepieces ." Incredible smell - it's probably the wrong tree , similar to the Japanese sakura cherry . Yes, exactly - it has some white berries . But arbutus, a little frostbitten . Here is the first ice waterfall.
When the going gets hard , I tell myself (and after - the girls from the group ) motivating tale. That's just around the corner , - DOLE Resort & SPA. Huge outdoor swimming pool , the water rises above the light steam . Beautiful Nepali girls spread guests cocktails. The hostess is already out of the lodge to meet us with a bucket of hot soup ... Oddly enough , the tale motivating.
I somehow forgot that we are in national parks . Local craftsmen much paint posters with various strange animals : barking deer, snow leopards , but almost dragons with basilisks . Though who would see it! And please - the right of the road peacefully browses bark deer! Fortunately, I go into the avant-garde group. We have three to five people before us and after us the road is empty and it is quiet. While feeding deer , we breathlessly trying to photograph her silently (pictured on the right somewhere ) . Finally, she removed with dignity . And we are waiting for a turn four pheasant. In the park hunting is forbidden . Animals just have not seen from any evil person . Get used to it , albeit with difficulty .