Almost Caucasus

Одинокий турист на границе the Report on a hike in Carpathians in the end of October, 2008. Usual August day. We cost(stand) at the Simferopol station, we meet new group … Suddenly Cyril suggests to go in October to Carpathians. In Carpathians I before was not, besides that serene summer day I still and did not suspect that in October happens coldly. By then at me it was still full of forces and energy. Then I also could not suspect that in September at me wild nostalgia on house edges(territories) and what that ridiculous weariness from полугодичного driving of groups on the Crimean mountains … will begin

Later


след медведя Tickets are taken, all circumstances are coordinated(agreeed), to a hike we go three together-th, Cyril and Тарас, we fly by plane, all is very beautiful, stewardesses, offer weight of different things, we fly with Тарасом, Cyril will catch up with us on a way … In self-summer to me have forbidden to use GPS the navigator, I do not understand than it(he) could do much harm it(him) …

up to Ivano-Frankovsk.


Stations, vagabonds.. All very much is not beautiful and is not cosy. We would agree with Тарасом that it(he) was silent we shall not reach yet in mountains and in general especially did not open a mouth. I easily talk, both in Russian and in a Ukranian language, and in the further at meetings with local the role of dialogue with them dropped to me …

Morning smoothly passes in Day.


At last that there has arrived Cyril, has brought a bottle сгущенки, HURRAH!!! … here I have understood that at us maids will not be exact and it is the validity and a hike will be severe, on 20 km a day at least + to spend the night in tent with two guys + to rise in 5 mornings... I Tighten(Delay) a belt(zone) потуже, I prepare for tests …

Floor of day we go in the bus already all together, we receive the miss(passing) in a boundary zone with Romania further.

At last that the hike has begun.


Ur!!! We leave gradually village Business and it is gone deep into MOUNTAINS, we leave in Carpathians, from people far away, in particular from vagabonds … but any more we shall not be about them.. Them as the road wide and while equal разъезженная than that and from that marshy, dirty seemed to me much everywhere …. We go along a rivulet. In comparison with the Crimean rivulets карпатские are simply huge, all time rustle also with a rough stream are carried away afar. Carpathians as it seemed to me, are similar than that to Caucasus if to cut off all that above 2 thousand, to clean(remove) glaciers and so on … very damp mountains … and woody with such beautiful and прикольными полонинами. We reach a road fork and the rivers, further upward, therefore it is necessary to be reserved by water … Road upwards it has appeared awful, wide but as after it(her) bulldozers go that it(she) has turned to a marshy mix in which legs(foots) rolled ours very deeply.

But soon we have seen traces of a bear and from impatience will meet it(him) have jerked were even faster … Rise long and awful but in signs preparation was given полугодичная and I escaped all time forward.. By the evening we have found полуразрушенную a избушку-кош-hut-small house and have decided таки to spend the night in tent. Fire wood burned wonderfully, was warmly enough and cosy. To sleep have laid down early and an alarm clock for 5 mornings …

беседа в горах

Morning of next day


Has begun with that that Cyril as it is necessary the example has set and the first has got out of tent and the beginnings already суетится. I did not wish to set an example of weakness and consequently shouted: « Day!!! », but forces to rise at once in itself did not find, in general process of awakening was hardly given. Woken Тарас all time muttered and was indignant … That's it and the next mornings approximately … looked(appeared)

The breakfast and forward Is continued yet long rise, we meet boundary избушку but in it(her) anybody, further in a wood more deeply already is visible the shepherd's refuge and … and full deadlock. Порыскали also have returned hardly back, have groped I forge that animal upwards тропку and … both long and tiresomely подымались after it(her) yet do not send on человеческо-machine road. Closely we come nearer to border, at all silence and expectation of wild delight.

The first people.


We continue to go, roads, полонинка with the thrown huts, for the first time we meet tourists. And the first disappointment, they in any way do not answer shouts of kind day. Probably it were the Romanian tourists or is simple Romanians. We meet crowd вуйков by the lorry Further, I talked as the others have grown dumb and stood as columns, has politely refused vodka and have gone(send) further … it has appeared again not so on road further and again we leave there where it is necessary. Presence of the navigator allows to find road when start to fornicate(wander). And here again the deadlock … further variants is a lot of. Cyril explains that real dudes from here leave on impassability to the right upwards.

Unlike Carpathians.


Our purpose priest Ivan, it(he) just also divides(shares) Ukraine and Romania. Here in general the landscape very little than is similar to Carpathians, peaked ridges with rockfalls and moraines. All this Мармарошский a file. But we see тропку on breakage and that we can not clearly restrain. Быстренько it is passable and on a sharp crest under tender and warm карпатским with the sun we arrange a meal. We admire kinds. Here it is beautiful. Around breakages and a crest with narrow тропкой. We gather and creep …

на морене ползем вдоль скал ползем по кустам

Скалолазо-траверсо-кустоцепляние


Тропка proceeded meters 15, further only a direction. Cyril has got not in that direction I behind it(him), Тарас observes of us, but costs(stands) on a place. We come back 5 meters back here still it is possible to stand to a three. We solve downwards … keeping for thrickets of a grass and on absence of all directions we go down very accurately. Why I have solved that that without a backpack to me will be easier and downwards … I See Тараса that runs to rescue(save) my backpack, it has not turned out … has departed far downwards. I behind it(him), the order … we See a track, more likely тропочку and can who is simple that time was passed(took place) on an inclined grass … below a moraine. Well and we траверсировать the slope means … glasses(spots) mist over, feature it is not visible, I creep, I catch up with children, we continue to clamber … all smoothly develops in скалолазо-траверсо-кустоцепляние, stones, bushes, impressions, … we creep, from a ridge on a ridge, there is no place back, forward it is impossible, downwards is far, the insurance is absent, we creep on devices. And here having overcome the last a stone-bushes I leave on a grassy slope, further only on all fours … has left, has become independent, ху … priest Ivan. I see beside a normal track on which we have not gone(do not send) ….

 

One leg(foot) in the European Union.


Has had a rest. I swear on all that occurs(happens) and in a shower(soul) I understand that such will be remembered precisely for a long time. " Romanians - дурачки! " I shouted for pleasure of that there are that we just on border and ran that across Romania that on our party(side). And in fact it already the European Union. So we have made great travel on bushes. I calm down nut батончиком and we move further. I understand, that in a commercial hike, I to myself would not allow to go such tracks, and here to blame not whom, are guilty. We go on a good track along a crest, Romania is visible, Ukraine … is visible go and on devices so it turns out that already so a little bit in Romania … and on our party(side) тропок that and is not present. We go down so on a grassy slope, the blessing we have already trained, go down quickly. Spending the night on border, here it is cold. It is few fire wood but a supper вкуснейший, deserved in difficult карабканьях. A dream instant …
Along border.

избушка пастухов сияние Day as always begins in 5, hours have translated(transferred) so we rise in 4 Petrol torch rescues(saves) a situation and is had breakfast till a dawn. The blessing Cyril finds in itself forces will wake up in time that it is impossible to tell about us, we try to rise by a breakfast. I understand that it was promised unfairly when one person all time the person on duty, But after half a year of work as the instructor so would be desirable побыть the simple participant and as it is necessary посачковать a huge temptation … for today with rains and the sky gloomy, adjust(set up) itself on the worst. All the day long we go on wide road along border with Romania. Everywhere columns of the Soviet origin and the rests of a barbed wire. There are also small stone old columns from the чехословацко-Romanian border and then from чехословацко-Polish. First we go on a wood, then on a flat ridge and so all the day … Day tiresome and not amazing with impressions, but I find a horseshoe and understanding that is excess weight all the same I drag with myself. Where that it is turned off from border and it is gone deep into our party(side). Grows dark. We find полонинку and madly class small house.

The oven heats soul.


But I while type(collect) water. With it(this) of a problem, the design of a drinking bowl for animals is very complex(difficult) and I spend a lot of time. There is Cyril speaks that have found normal water and it is necessary to pour out all that so long typed(collected). An oven, a heap of fire wood. We prepare on a plate, we eat behind a table, we inside of the house and to us it is really class. Begins warmly and cosy … I can not believe to such happiness but it is a reality. Even we shall sleep today on полочках … as there was well and cosy, to leave(abandon) this place not so that it would be desirable, for pleasure have gorged on soup with garlic and happy(enough) were dragged to sleep. Later I still rose to enclose(lay) fire wood and to bear(take out) the lighted up log on street. Thanks you избушка that you so in time have appeared there.

Night. The good attribute … is removed(is taken off;dream) in the maid,

белый склон Черной горы

Next day


All as always early, but with an oven and from it(this) is pleasant and warmly, would not be desirable to leave from here. But it is necessary, for greater(big) plans for today. We leave and on priest Ivan that Black mountain with an observatory.

возле обсерватории в Карпатах

Way class the track is marked, weather супер, the rain таки was not. Kinds чудестные. We submit(conquer) black mountain, we go on an observatory … around a heap of jeeps with Poles, too travel. What terrible impression when so long взбираешся on top and there by machines(cars) happens, even to recollect it would not be desirable … coldly, we tear further on the main ridge, here it is beautiful and прикольно. All kinds open. The truth a wind was terrible. Halts and перекусы did(made) in which entrenchments here немерено, probably when that who that prepared for war. Where that after a dinner to our look has opened Говерла - a peaked pyramid and where that inside of me was played with music bewitching and mysterious … all inside of me was pulled to it(her). To cling soul and a body to reach to top of Ukraine and this feat tomorrow we shall make.

For now we turn off to озерцу Несамовите. Well we with Тарасом see, that Cyril again wishes to start up us on бездорожному to a slope, and we offer vividly variants of detour. In the answer a simple phrase: « do not pissing ». We go down really on a tolerant track. Evening very cold and мермишель cools down very quickly. A dream as always good. We fall asleep in an anticipation of tomorrow's conquest … good night!!!

Day last


привал перед Говерлой Not so that simply to subdue Говерлу, at us it has turned out only to 11-ти. And the way to it(her) has appeared long. From apart it(she) таки is more mysterious and after conquest the riddle disappears. In it(this) for me a greater(big) problem. I very much love places there where yet was not. And after their visiting any more very much. In general all time is necessary for me for good state of health sensation of that that new …. Those have met tourists too silent, it is visible too Romanians. Political top, a heap of monuments. Good weather and visibility, we decide where to move organizational further … it turns out that today and home … constant descent(release) and here Carpathians come to an end we leave in settlement. For a supper we prepare directly at station. In an electric train it is a lot of people and I on former do not love them in such quantity(amount) … then a train and night, vagabonds ….

Morning in Lvov


ретро минералка In lions we have arrived to 4м mornings and knowing that time especially is not present at once have begun our walk … lions there were very beautiful city … on its(his) buildings traces of set of riddles. And pedestals, bas-reliefs - about what that speaks statues to all this and only it is necessary to hear that to you wish to tell. We have run all over all lions in some hours and then very interesting person which has got to us drove us and told secrets of Lvov …

Postscript.


Now when I sit at home on a sofa and I drink tea in heat and a cosiness with pleasure I recollect all our adventures … it really interestingly and probably only in it(this) to year has understood that from a life it is necessary to take as much as possible, in fact a case can more and not turn up … Dare, success courageous only smiles …

Andrey Gipich, Pervomaisk