Acclimatization

At long stay at height in an organism there come series of changes which short is reduced to conservation of normal vital activity of the person. This process is called as acclimatization. Acclimatization-sum of organism responses as a result of which the good general(common) state is supported(maintained), is saved a persistence of weight, normal working capacity and normal course of psychological processes. Distinguish full and incomplete, or partial, acclimatization.  In connection with rather small for stay in mountains for mountain tourists and climbers are characteristic partial acclimatization and adaptation-short-term (unlike final or long) adaptation of organism to new climatic conditions.

During the fitting to a disadvantage of oxygen of an organism there are following changes:

-as the cortex of a brain differs extremely high sensitivity to an oxygen failure, the organism first of all aspires to keep due oxygen stocking of the central nervous system in conditions of high mountains due to decrease of stocking by oxygen of other, less important organs;

In an appreciable degree it is sensitive to a disadvantage of oxygen and system of respiration. Respiratory organs react to a disadvantage of oxygen all over again deeper respiration (augmentation of its(his) volume):

Table 2
Height, m      0      5000      6000
Volume of inhaled air, ml      715      800      1000

And then and increase of frequency of respiration:

Table 3
Character of movement      Frequency of respiration
On a sea level      At height of 4300 m
Walking with rate of 6,4 km/hours      17,2      29
Walking with rate of 8,0 km/hours      20      36

As a result of some reactions caused by an oxygen failure, in a blood it is enlarged not only quantity(amount) of erythrocytes (red bloody telets, containing a hemoglobin), but also quantity(amount) of the hemoglobin (fig. 4). All this causes augmentation of oxygen capacity of a blood, that is ability of a blood to transfer(carry) oxygen to tissues increases and thus to supply tissues with its(his) necessary quantity(amount). It is necessary to note, that the augmentation of number of erythrocytes and percentage of a hemoglobin happens more expressed if the ascention is accompanied by an intense muscular load that is if process of adaptation has active character. The degree and rate of body height of number of erythrocytes and haemoglobin contents depend also on those geographical features or other mountain districts.

It is enlarged in mountains and total of a circulating blood. However the load on heart thus does not increase, as simultaneously there is a trichangiectasia, their number and extent is enlarged.

In the first days of stay of the person in conditions of high mountains (especially at malotrenirovannyh people) it is enlarged the minute volume of heart, increases pulse. So, at physically weakly prepared gorovoshoditelej at height of 4500 m pulse increases on the average on 15, and at height 5500 m-on 20 impacts in a minute.

Upon termination of process of acclimatization at heights up to 5500 m all these parameters decrease to normal amounts, characteristic for ordinary activity at low heights. Normal working capacity zherisunok a 4лудочно-intestinal tract is restored also. However at greater(big) heights (more than 6000) pulse, respiration, work of cardiovascular system and do not decrease to normal value(meaning;importance) for here some organs and systems of the person constantly are in conditions of the certain(specific) strain. So, even during a dream at heights the pulse rate makes of 6500-6800 m about 100 impacts in a minute.

Abundantly clear, that for each person the period of incomplete (partial) acclimatization has various duration. Much more quickly and with smaller functional deviations(rejections) she comes at physically healthy people in the age of from 24 till 40 years. But in any event 14-day's term of stay in mountains in conditions of active acclimatization is sufficient for the fitting of a normal organism to new climatic conditions.

For exception of probability of serious disease by a mountain disease, and also for reduction of terms of acclimatization it is possible to recommend a following complex of the actions spent both before departure mountains, and during travel.

Before the long high-mountainous travel including in a line of the route passes above 5000 m, all candidates should be subjected to special medical-physiological inspection. The faces badly transferring(carrying) an oxygen failure, physically insufficiently prepared, and also the pneumonia which has transferred(carried) during prehiking preparation, an angina or a serious flu, to participation in such hikes should not be supposed.

The period of partial acclimatization can be reduced, if participants of forthcoming travel in advance, some months prior to a yield(an exit) in mountains, will start regular employment(occupations) on obshchefizicheskoj to preparation, especially on rising hardiness of an organism: run on long distances, floating, diving sports, the skates and skis. At such trainings in an organism there is a temporary disadvantage of oxygen which that above, than is more intensity and duration of a load. As the organism here works in the conditions some(a little bit) similar on an oxygen failure with stay at height, at the person the raised(increased) fastness of an organism to a disadvantage of oxygen is developed(produced) at performance of muscular work. In the further in conditions of mountains it will facilitate the fitting to height, will accelerate process of adaptation, will make its(his) less morbid.

It is necessary to know, that at physically unprepared tourists to high-mountainous Travel the vital capacity of lungs in the beginning of a hike even decreases a little, the maximal working capacity of heart (in comparison with the trained participants) also becomes less on 8-10 %, and reaction of augmentation of a hemoglobin and erythrocytes at an oxygen failure is late.

Immediately during a hike following actions are spent: active acclimatization, a psychotherapy and a psychoprophylaxis, the organization of a corresponding(meeting) delivery, application of vitamins and adaptogenov (the agents raising(increasing) working capacity, an organism), full refusal of smoking and alcohol, systematic inspection of a level of health, application of some medicines.

Active acclimatization for climbing ascentions and for high-mountainous tourist hikes has difference in methods of its(her) carrying out. This difference speaks first of all an essential difference of heights of objects of an ascention. So, if for climbers this height can make 8842 m for the most prepared tourist groups she will not exceed 6000-6500 m (some passes in district of ridges the High Wall, Zaalajskogo and some other on Pamir). The difference consists and that the ascention on tops on technically complex(difficult) routes is made within several days, and on complex(difficult) traversam - even weeks (without appreciable loss of height at the separate intermediate stages) while in the high-mountainous tourist hikes having, as a rule, greater(big) extent, on overcoming of passes spend less time.

Smaller heights, smaller term of stay at these heights and faster draining off with appreciable loss of height in a greater degree facilitate process of acclimatization for tourists, and repeated enough alternating of rises and draining offs softens, and even in general stops development of a mountain disease.

Therefore climbers at high-altitude ascentions are compelled(forced) to allocate in the beginning of expedition(dispatch) about two weeks for training (akklimatizatsionnyh) ascentions for lower tops, differing from the basic object of an ascention on height of the order of 1000 meters. For tourist groups which routes pass(take place) of 3000-5000 m special akklimatizatsionnyh of yields(exits) through passes in height it is not required. The choice of such line of a route at which within the first week - 10 days the height of passes passed(taken place) by group would accrue(increase) gradually, as a rule, suffices For this purpose.

As the greatest malaise caused(called) by the general(common) weariness of the tourist which has not involved yet in a camp life, is felt normally in the first days of a hike even at the organization dnevki at this time it is recommended to spend employment(occupations) on technics(technical equipment) of movement, on building-up of snow huts or caves, and also prospecting or training yields(exits) on height. The specified practical employment(occupations) and yields(exits) should be made in good rate that forces an organism to react more quickly on razrezhennost air, to adapt to changes of climatic conditions more activly. N.Tentsinga's references are interesting in this respect: at height even on a camp it is necessary to be physically active - to heat snow melt, to watch(keep up) a state of tents, to check equipment, it is more to move, for example, after the equipment(installation) of tents to take part(participate) in building-up of snow kitchen(cuisine), to help(assist) to carry ready nutrition on tents.

In prophylaxis of a mountain disease correct catering services has essential value(meaning;importance) also. At height more the ration of a daily delivery should have than 5000 m not less than 5000 greater(big) calories. The maintenance(contents) of carbohydrate in a ration should be enlarged by 5-10 % in comparison with an ordinary delivery. On the sites bound to intense muscular activity, first of all it is necessary to use legkousvaivaemyj carbohydrate - a glucose. The enlarged consumption of carbohydrate promotes education of a lot of Carbonei dioxydum which the organism lacks. The quantity(amount) of a consumed liquid in conditions of high mountains and especially at fulfilment of the hard work bound to movement on complex(difficult) sites of a route, should be not less than 4-5 l in day. It is the most solving(deciding) measure of extirpation with a deaquation of an organism. Besides the volumetric gain of a consumed liquid promotes deducing(removing) from an organism through kidneys nedookislennyh products of an exchange.

The organism of the person making a long hard work in conditions of high mountains, demands raised(increased) (in 2-3 times) quantity(amount) of vitamins, especially what are a part some the enzymes participating in a regulation okislitelno-ó«ßßÔá¡«ó¿Ôѽý¡ÙÕ of-regenerative processes and closely bound to a metabolism. These are vitamins of group In where are most important В12 and B15, and also B1, В2 and В6. So, vitamin В15, besides told, promotes rising of working capacity of an organism at height, essentially facilitating performance of greater(big) and intense loads, raises(increases) efficiency of utilization of oxygen, activates oxygen exchange in cells of tissues, raises(increases) high-altitude fastness. This vitamin strengthens the mechanism of active adaptation to a disadvantage of oxygen, and also oxidation of Adepses at height.

Except for them, the important role is played also with vitamins C, RR and Acidum folicum in a combination to Glycerophosphatum of iron and Methacilum. Such complex influences augmentation of quantity(amount) of erythrocytes and a hemoglobin, that is on augmentation of oxygen capacity of a blood.

Acceleration of processes of adaptation influence also so-called adaptogeny - a ginseng, eleuterokokk and akklimatizin (an admixture eleuterokokka, limonnika and brown sugar). E.Gippenrejter recommends a following complex of the preparations raising(increasing) an adaptability of an organism to a hypoxia and facilitating current of a mountain disease: eleuterokokk, diabazol, vitamins A, В1, В2, B6, B12, With, RR, a pantothenate of a calcium, a methionine, gluconat of a calcium, Glycerophosphatum of a calcium and a chlorinated potassium. The admixture offered by N.Sirotininym is effective also: 0,05 g Acidum ascorbinicum, 0,5 g citric acid and 50 g glucoses on one reception. It is possible to recommend and a dry blackcurrant beverage (in briquettes on 20), containing lemon and gljutaminovuju acids, a glucose, chlorinated and fosfornokislyj sodium.

How long after homing to plain the organism saves those changes which have occured(happened) in him during acclimatization?

Upon termination of travel to mountains depending on height of a route the changes got during acclimatization from respiratory system, a circulation and contents of the blood pass(take place) quickly enough. So, the raised(increased) haemoglobin content decreases to norm(rate) for 2-2,5 months. For the same period decreases and the raised(increased) ability of a blood to carry of oxygen. That is acclimatization of an organism to height is saved only about three months.
However, after repeated departures mountains an organism original "memory" on adaptive reactions to height is developed(produced). Therefore at the next departure mountains its(his) organs and systems already on « the blazed paths » find a correct way for adaptation of organism to a disadvantage of oxygen more quickly