Resque in mountains

Each amateur group, each participant of camp or occasion should remember, that the Soviet climber is obliged to go on the first call to the aid of sufferred disaster in mountains. If the group of climbers accepts an alarm signal, she immediately stops an ascention and is entirely switched to saving work, unconditionally submitting to its(her) principal. The group suffering(bearing) disaster, is obliged to give immediately a signal about it(this). There were events when climbers, thinking, that they will manage by own strength, eventually only worsened the position.

All ascentions are recorded at chiefs of saving items(points). The net of these items(points) for last years has grown in some times and covers almost all mountain districts. The group leaving on an ascention, as a rule, leaves data where and in what quantity(amount) she sends, leaves exact kroki ways and specifies terms of homing. Chiefs of saving items(points) have the right to change or forbid routes if the group does not have necessary equipment or its(her) participants malopodgotovleny.

The group leaving in seldom visited district, is obliged to label a way, and in conditional items(points) to leave notes about the further way. After homing the group reports it(this) in that camp or base where watch(keep up) for its(her) control for(term).

At failure(accident) it is necessary to render more likely probably first aid on a place of failure(accident) and more quickly to transport the victim to a place where can submit .vrachebnuju the help.

Immediately after failure(accident) of the patient is located in a place, safe from avalanches and rockfalls. It is necessary to lift the victim, approaching(suiting) to it(him;them) from that side where it(he) has less than damages. At serious fractures of the victim simultaneously podymajut some(a little bit) person: one supports(maintains) legs(foots), another - an ischium, the third - the upper part of a body. To the victim weaken(easy) the parts of clothes which are pulling together a body: belts, buttons of a collar, shnurki a boot. In mountains of the victim normally do not undress. It is recommended to take out from it(him) footwear in the winter and to inwrap an extremity in a paper, to put on dry toes(socks) ch gloves.

At the complicated respiration the victim needs to give sedentary or polulezhachee position, enclosing(laying) him under a back and under the incurvated knees the folded clothes and soft equipment. At fractures of ribs the wide pressure bandage is imposed; the patient keeps within on that side where fracture is found out. At fracture of an extremity, for example, anticnemions, from the patient the boot is necessarily taken out, and imposed, a retentive bandage (splint).

The victim deliver downwards with an extremity fixed in horizontal position, that protecting from sharp puffiness. At fractures of extremities, especially femurs, the patient transfer(carry) a head to a valley, avoiding pressure of the upper part of a body upon the damaged(injured) site. At fracture of vertebra(vertebrae) - cervical, thoracal and lumbosacral, at all serious damages of a skull delivery of the patient is made especially accurately. The victim necessarily keeps within on the hard basis, for example, on a board or on four skis clamped together. The board becomes covered by a thin layer of a matter. The transferring is made in horizontal position or with some inclination a head to a valley that the vertebrae was in a little bit stretched(a little bit dragged out) state.

At all events of serious mutilations and damages the saving group as in three or even four persons it is difficult to group to transport the victim on rocks or ice sites immediately causes.

At the open fractures plentiful bleedings are very frequent. Then on bleeding site the pressing sterile bandage and an ice are imposed. Delivery of the victim is made with the extremity raised upwards. During long transition from patients it is necessary to bandage densely bleeding site but so that the circulation was not broken. In a way it is necessary to monitor a state of an extremity. If blue discoloration is appreciable and have appeared murashki, it is necessary to redress and weaken(easy) a bandage immediately. Splints and other acting parts of fittings for transportation should not rub a body of the victim, such places are wrapped by a matter or bandage. At bandaging fingers on which the circulation in extremities is monitored are left not bandaged.

At fractures it is necessary to fix, fix the damaged(injured) site for what the climber uses the equipment. The extremity is fixed so that to grasp two next a knuckle. At fractures of extremities it is used ledorub, at fractures of a brush or a foot-cardboard from a notebook, a tablet, the spoon, ice and rocky krjuchja, at fractures bedra-ski a stick or a ski.
Transferring of the victim in a backpack
Fig. 32. A transferring of the victim in turned out rukzake.
Transferring of the victim on a cord
Fig. 33. A transferring of the victim on the folded cord.

Far from settlements and a wood zone, among almost impassable ice and rocky sites as the fitting for transportation of the victim the strong and well driven(adjusted) litter serve. A litter and other fittings for a transferring of the patient should differ speed and simplicity of manufacturing from an improvised material, should be suitable for draining off on ice and rocky batches of scales.

If the fatality has occured(happened) in group of two climbers and the patient can be transported sitting, is used rukzak which is released(exempted) from things, straps are clasped(buttoned) on last hole. Turned out upside down rukzak it is put on a prominence(mamelon), approximately at height of a waist transporting. The patient sits down on the bottom third rukzaka, and as it is ordinary, straps rukzaka are put on shoulders transporting. The patient transfer(carry) on a back, arms(hand) at transporting are free from podderzhivanija the victim as that densely nestles on a back. Such way is very convenient.

The cord which is curtailed into some loops is in the same way used and put on, as rukzak. Under the patient the loop which upper part is put on as straps rukzaka is enclosed(laid). At more serious wounds when the patient is necessary for transporting in lying position, a litter for what two undertake shesta on 2,5 m in length and six half-meter slats are used. The width of a litter should not exceed 50 sm as at transportation of an arm(a hand) of porters should be lowered(omitted) upright. Two shesta are put on land on distance of 50 sm one from another, of 40 sm from each extremity(end) shesta become stronger from two sides slats on distance. Cross-beams become stronger parallel viscous(viscid). The third slat is located on 10 sm vovnutr from marginal and goes under the cores shestami, three other slats go on a headboard.

Two following slats are inserted between lobbies in parallel the basic shestam and clamped in the upper part remained cross-section(transversal). Then a litter are braided by a chunk repshnura. Repshnur put in zigzag fashion in the middle of a litter, half of free space is braided, and the cord passes(takes place) from above on longitudinal shestu, being crossed bypasses under it(him) and leaves to opposite shestu. The second extremity(end) makes the same, with that only a difference, that in the middle at each zigzag repshnur obkruchivaetsja around of the first loops, forming thus rhomboidal weaving. To the extremities(ends) of a litter straps which length depends on body height of the porter, in the upper part they obkruchivajutsja a matter become attached to not rub shoulders of porters.

When is not present shestov and slats, it is possible to build the fitting for transportation one shesta, by length in 2-3 m. of the Patient it is inwrapped in tent or in a sleeping bag, it is urged on basically in four points: at a head, in brachiums, at a basin and in legs(foots). For an attachment it is possible to use repshnur, wound by a matter, or strong cingular belts. It is necessary to watch(keep up), that the head did not sag. Transportation firn and a snow is made on a sled from four skis. Skis keep within equally spaced among themselves so that the width of a sled was 60 65 see From skis belts and alcoholizations are taken out. From a ski stick or from ledoruba two chunks on 65 sm are cut off, one of these slats is attached to the basis of alcoholizations, standing out on 5 sm from each side, and is fixed crosswisely, in some times. The second slat becomes stronger in noskovoj parts of skis also with a stock on 5 sm from both sides. postromkami the long chunk repshnura (5) serves. In the middle postromok do(make) a free loop in length in 1,5 m, adhering it(her) to the extremities(ends) of a forward cross-beam. The free extremities(ends) are crossed and lead to the second cross-beam, becoming stronger on its(her) extremities(ends). Remained after that the extremities(ends) postromok serve for priderzhivanija a sled behind. Adhering postromki, it is necessary to watch(keep up), that at movement draft was distributed(allocated) in regular intervals. A sled are dimmed by warm things.
Transportation rocks

Promotion on rocks with the victim is very complex(difficult). The knowledge of rocky technics(technical equipment) and skilful work with a cord solve here speed and success of promotion. If the climber has wounds of an anticnemion or a foot, he still can use on abrupt and steep sites a saddle. For this purpose two chunks repshnura such sizes that their length, folded double, was peer to length of the developed(unwrapped) arms(hand) undertake. One of such chunks is bound by a loop, by second one extremity(end) is fastened on a chest. It turns out fastened on a chest repshnur with the free extremity(end) and a loop.

The victim set on the combined loop, take for the middle between legs(foots), leveling all three extremities(ends). All this a construction clasp(button) a carbine, a carbine clasp(button) a thoracal loop. The victim sits on two loops and is supported(maintained) for the thoracal loop protecting from overturning in case of a loss of consciousness or remissions of arms(hand) from the basic cord. The free extremity(end) of a thoracal loop is used for the additional insurance in unit Prussika. After the saddle is bound entirely, the carbine is clasped(buttoned) for draining off on the basic cord. The victim one arm(hand) holds the straightened unit Prussika, and the second arm(hand) submits a cord that she was freely etched in a carbine. For draining off such place where the fallen patient can sit down gets out.

At draining off hardly suffered a litter or shest are fixed from both extremities(ends) by the cords, two climbers rise on each side a litter, preparing to draining off djulferom. Drained off comrades should be on special, additive(additional) ohranenii. Transporting undertake then a litter or shest to delay them from a slope. For this purpose the extremity(end) shesta or a litter is put in the incurvated elbow or on the leg(foot) pushed forward turned immediately to a litter. It is additive to the extremity(end) shesta the rope loop which is put on through a brachium transporting becomes attached.

At all events of draining off on rocks it is necessary to watch(keep up) not causing(calling) a cord of a rockfall; for this purpose the ligament(cord;sheaf) of skilled(experienced) climbers which find a convenient and safe way is sent forward.
Transportation firn and a snow

The most favourable contents for transportation firn and a snow--6-8 the person. For ohranenija are used alpenshtoki, ski a stick, on dense firn - ledoruby. At rises two persons leave with bottom ohraneniem on all cord, are fixed, exhausting during a snow a ski stick or alpenshtok. The others become on each side a sled. On a command(team) "tighten" upper tighten, and bottom in order to prevent jerk pripodymajut a sled, pushing them forward. When there are 2 or 3 m for the toing close up, accompanying rise, accepting ohranenie, then upper repeat again the same receptions. At draining off of all this it is made upside-down.

During all process of transportation snow slopes it is necessary to watch(keep up) a state of a snow on a slope to not get under an avalanche. If there is no opportunity to bypass an avalanche slope then all work is made with a small number of people. The others watch(keep up) a state of a snow, exposing the special signaller.
Transportation a valley

The patient delivered in a valley, can be attached on the same litter between two horses. Horses are put tsugom on the distance exceeding length of a litter or shesta on 50-80 sm from each side. A litter adhere the cords going from each side of a litter to a saddle or chrezsedelniku. The level privjazej should be identical. Comrades going sideways keep a litter from side rolling.

At transportation a motor vehicle of the patient with serious damages of a skull or a vertebrae, the machine(car) load sand on half of its(her) elevating opportunity. Occupancy is a little enlarged above back wheels. The patient keeps within across a motor vehicle, is closer to a cabin of the driver. Transportation of victims in an empty motor vehicle is hazardous. Rate of movement of a motor vehicle depends on a state of the patient and at good road averages 15 km at an o'clock.
Extraction from cracks and avalanches

Extraction failed in a crack should occur(happen) very quickly, otherwise the victim can freeze. Immediately after failure(accident) it is necessary to establish(install), in what state is failed. If the victim has an opportunity to move and help(assist), to him drain off one-two cords, and he on way Prussika or on stapeses podymaetsja upwards. If the victim is in the helpless state, drained off to them takes it(him) by means of comrades.

At avalanche accidents it is necessary to be drained off immediately after failure(accident) on a place of avalanche circus (if there is an opportunity) and to examine a surface in searches of acting parts of clothes, equipment or a body.

It is obligatory to expose the signaller who is on distance of visibility and audibility and at a repeated(repetitive) avalanche warns comrades, having an opportunity to be covered. If to external attributes it was possible to find out the victim, it is necessary to dig out immediately it(him), to put on warm things, to clear of a snow a mouth, a nose, ears and to result(bring) in consciousness. If to external attributes to find the victim the saving group was not possible, causes; the place of accident is labeled.

When it is necessary to cause(call) the help in mountains, resort to special alarm signals. Signals move every 10 secs: 6 times a minute are given any signal. The dark matter on a snow in the afternoon gives all the best, on rocks swing a white scarf, on an ice cellar-red a tissue. The alarm missile or a lantern which is exposed at night is applied and then hidden. If the signal is accepted, immediately given reciprocal which moves each 20 secs, three times a minute, at regular intervals.