Using the Rope

Moving ahead in a hazardous place, the climber should provide to itself successful and safe promotion on this site. The climber uses for this purpose the equipment and, first of all, a cord. The main purpose(appointment) of a cord-охранение: to keep the broken climber from the further fall. The Alpine cord preserves a life of the climber Without mastering by technics(technical equipment) of application of a cord it is impossible to make a little complex(difficult) ascentions; it is impossible even to spend educational and training employment(occupations) on rocks and on an ice, it is impossible to study(investigate) technics(technical equipment) lazanija on rocks. From first days of studying of bases of mountaneering it is necessary to familiarize with technics(technical equipment) of application of a cord.

Than above the technics(technical equipment) of the climber, the more difficultly a route, the use a cord as an auxiliary agent at lazany on abrupt slopes and walls is more often. Eurysynusic free draining offs on a cord. In receptions of the maximum(supreme) technics(technical equipment) lazany on rocks or on an ice such ways as "zajltsug", "pendulum", etc., are based(founded;established) on utilization of a cord and krjuchev.
Fig. 6. The units applied by the climber: A-"bulin", B-unit of a porter, In-weaver's unit, the ú-straight line the unit fastened correctly, the ñ-straight line the unit fastened incorrectly.

Any unit which is fastened by the climber, should be fastened and untied quickly, should be simple and strong. The strong unit should not be untied or be tightened(delayed) itself. Very much often on a difficult place it is necessary to fasten units few seconds, and it is necessary to make it precisely and without mistakes(errors). To fasten and untie units it is necessary automatically, it(this) can be reached(achieved) easily repeated; knitting of units. The fastened unit should not be slipping, at fall the tightened(delayed) loop can strangle the climber. It is very important to save vertical position of a body in case of fall, for this purpose it is necessary to tie a cord around of a body on a chest hardly enough to not slip out it(her) if arms(hand) are lifted. From slipping on femurs the cord surrounding the climber, is protected by braces from repshnura.

"Bulin" (fig. 6-А). The climber is surrounded with the extremity(end) of a cord and fastens unit. This unit quickly is fastened, untied easily. He enough prochen, but it is necessary to fasten it(him) very closely(attentively). In ligament(cord;sheaf) marginal climbers use this unit only.

“ The unit of a porter ” (fig. 6-Б) is fastened easily and quickly. The fastened loop is put on a body with not tightened(delayed) unit which is finally tightened(delayed) on a chest. In climbing ligament(cord;sheaf) this unit is applied to averages and for marginal climbers.
Unit Prussika
Fig. 7. Unit Prussika.

For linkage of two extremities(ends) of a cord weaver's and direct units are used.

The weaver's unit (fig. 6-В) is very convenient for linkage of cords of various thickness.

Direct unit (fig. 6-Г). At incorrectly fastened unit (fig. 6-Д) at hardly tense cord the extremities(ends) can slip out.

Unit Prussika is one of the original units applied in mountaneering. As this unit is fastened, is clear from fig. 7. “ take a chunk repshnura and make a loop, wrap this loop two times around of a cord, spending at everyone of a cycle one extremity(end) of a loop directly in the same direction inside ushka, obrazuemogo other extremity(end). Watch(keep up) that coils of a loop around of a cord went inside ushka ”.

The basic cord take ordinary diameter, the loop is done(made) of the extremity(end) repshnura, dlinoju 2,5 m, diameter 6-7 mm. If such loop tied on a cord to load, the unit will be tightened(delayed) also a loop remains motionless. If the loop is weakened(easied), not loaded, it is possible to move easily an arm(a hand) it(her) upwards and downwards. In it(this) is advantage of a loop with unit Prussika. As work of unit is based(founded;established) on abrasion, unit fasten only on a dry cord. On a wet cord, especially in cold weather to fasten this unit it is not recommended. Application of unit widely enough: mri ohranenii, at lazany, at salvage operations where he often renders the irreplaceable help. How to use unit, we specify at the description of separate receptions of climbing technics(technical equipment).
Rises
Rise on loops with unit Prussika
Fig. 8. Rise on loops with unit Prussika.

Rise by means of a cord. We shall familiarize with two basic ways of rise by means of a cord: rise without assistance on loops Prussika and rise with assistance on a unary and double stapes.

These ways use at rises on rocks, on ice walls and, that is the most important, at vytaskivanii climbers from cracks when the climber who has failed there has not received serious damages and can independently move.

Rise on loops with unit Prussika (fig. 8). On the basic cord (it can be and a cord ohranenija) two loops are knotted Prussika. On the free extremity(end) of these loops are done(made) stremechki for legs(foots). Inserting legs(foots) in stremechki, the climber begins rise: lifts one leg(foot), an arm(a hand) moves above unit and, transferring(carrying) on the lifted loop gravity of a body, lifts other loop, then the released(exempted) leg(foot), etc. For conservation of vertical position of a body of a loop are passed(missed) under surrounding cord or for surrounding cord prishchelkivajutsja to the basic on a carbine; the last is more convenient: in this case the body is more close to the basic cord and does not fall off back. The basic cord is motionlessly fixed above.

Rise by a unary stapes (fig. 9). At this way of rise use one cord. To a climber being below drain off the extremity(end) of a cord with stremechkom. It is possible to use the second extremity(end) of a safeguarding cord by which it is tied rising. Having accepted this extremity(end) of the cord, rising passes(misses) it(him) under surrounding cord and inserts a leg(foot) in stremechko.

The upper climber fixes a cord in such a manner that on each extremity(end) going to rising, the loop fastened in unit Pruosika is put on. These loops in a snow are fixed on ledorube, on an ice or on rocks - on a hook with a carbine.

In a starting position rising costs(stands) a leg(foot) in stremechke, the cord safeguarding it(him) is fixed. Rise begins. A rising climber lifts a leg(foot) with stremechkom, having hung on a cord ohranenija. The upper climber chooses the released(exempted) cord and stretches it(her) probably further through unit Prussika. Then rising it is squashed on a leg(foot), releasing(exempting) a cord ohranenija. Now and this cord is fixed above.
Rise by a unary stapes
Fig. 9. Rise by a unary stapes.
Rise by a double stapes
Fig. 10. Rise by a double stapes.

Rise by a double stapes (fig. 10). On two extremities(ends) of a cord are knotted a porter petli-stremechki into which rising inserts legs(foots). Rising commands "left" and lifts the left leg(foot). On this signal pulling out tightens a cord going to the left leg(foot) rising, and stretches probably further a cord through unit Prussika which loop is strongly fixed on ledorube or on a carbine with a hook. Rising transfers(carries) then on the left leg(foot) gravity of a body, lifts the released(exempted) right leg(foot) and commands "right", etc.

At vytaskivanii from a crack on an ice cellar the cord strongly runs into edges of a crack, therefore before the beginning of rise it is useful to chop off a snow eaves and edges of a crack up to the ice basis. If it is impossible, under a cord enclose(lay) fixed rukzak or ledorub.
Draining offs

On difficult rocky sites draining off quite often appears more difficultly and more dangerously rise, and on such sites “ free draining off ” is applied. He is applied and with a view of economy of time, for example, on ice slopes. For draining off strengthen a cord so that it was possible to be drained off safely on her, and having drained off to extend it(her) to itself. For this purpose through the rope ring strengthened on a prominence(mamelon) or on a hook, the cord, which extremities(ends) is passed(missed) then are bound. If the dual cord nevertheless is short, draining off occurs(happens) on a unary cord. A cord bind then to an auxiliary cord and strengthen in an iron ring (fig. 11). After draining off a cord extend to itself for auxiliary. At pulling on rocks it is necessary to be careful of stones which the falling cord can carry away behind itself.
Ways of fastening of a cord for draining off
Fig. 11. Ways of fastening of a cord for draining off.

The draining off is carried out in several ways. The most reliable and simple enough is draining off Djulfera. The cord is passed(missed) in front between legs(foots), wrapped around of the right femur, through a chest goes on the left brachium, passes(takes place) on a back and at a girdle is cliped by the right arm(hand). At draining off by widely placed legs(foots) rest against a wall, rejecting a body back and being incurvated so that legs(foots) were perpendicular to a wall, and the upper part of a trunk is parallel to an escarpment, the climber as though sits down on air.
Draining off Djulfera
Fig. 12. Draining off Djulfera.

Rate of draining off is adjusted(regulated) by lowering back or podnimaniem forward the right arm(hand). In no event it is impossible to let out(release) during draining off from the right arm(hand) the free extremity(end) of a cord - then inevitably fall. But time probably fall it is necessary ohranenie and samoohranenie. For this purpose it is applied ordinary rope ohranenie from above. samoohranenie it is carried out by means of loop Prussika and it is especially important for drained off the last. On a cord on which are drained off, put on a loop with unit Prussika. The free extremity(end) of a loop ties round around of a chest. During draining off unit Prussika moves the left arm(hand). If now to let out(release) the free extremity(end) of a cord from the right arm(hand) the climber though will slide off, but, having tightened(delayed) unit Prussika, will hang in a loop.
Ohranenie

Under ohraneniem the sum of all receptions providing traffic safety is understood. For ohranenija the climber rising on rocks, some ways are applied. About samoohranenii we shall tell below, after the description of work with krjuchjami.

Ohranenie through a brachium (fig. 13). I will accept it ohranenie, the climber necessarily should keep a correct rack. Always it is known, in what side the drained off climber can be broken, and comrade safeguarding it(him) rises the face in this side. One leg(foot) is exposed forward in a direction of possible(probable) jerk and remains not loaded. To avoid stretchings of ligaments(cords) of an ankle joint, a leg(foot) expose a toe forward. Aggregate of these receptions protects from hazardous torsion of the case at jerk that could break safeguarding.
ohranenie through a brachium
Fig. 13. Ohranenie through a brachium.

The cord passes(takes place) through a brachium and undertakes in that arm(hand) which she moves or gets out. The arm(hand), same with the leg(foot) exposed forward, can be twisted for augmentation of abrasion by one coil of a cord. The free cord is accurately combined at legs(foots) safeguarding. During the moment of jerk the body safeguarding takes up the effort arising in a cord. The body safeguarding moves then forward, all gravity is transferred(carried) on not loaded leg(foot), the leg(foot) springs and by that softens, will amortize jerk. The final stopping of fall is reached(achieved) by that simultaneously the cord is pitted against it(this) falling. Stravlivanie should coincide with the beginning of jerk. Only owing to correct and, the main thing, well-timed stravlivaniju jerk can sustain both a cord, and itself safeguarding. To pit it is necessary for the length of 30-60 sm, depending on force of jerk. Force of jerk depends on depth of fall, weight of a falling body, toughness of a slope and its(his) character. Without well-timed stravlivanija cords at any way ohranenija no person will resist on legs(foots) after strong jerk and then ohranenie loses any sense as there is a so-called dead jerk.

At ohranenii on rocks it is possible to lean a back against a wall, and a leg(foot) to rest against a strong prominence(mamelon). Such rack is the most convenient for accepting on rocks. samoohranenie thus it is made through a hook.
ohranenie sitting
Fig. 14. Ohranenie sitting.

Sometimes on rocks ohranenie in a high rack replace ohraneniem sitting (fig. 14). It is necessary to sit down more conveniently: legs(foots) to rest against a strong prominence(mamelon), the cord can be taken through a brachium as it is described above, or to pass(miss) a little below a loin.

At ohranenii on an ice climbers dress cats and cut down greater(big) of a step for stojki-"lohanki". At ohranenii on a snow slope tread a sufficient platform. samoohranenie make through ledorub. All the ways long ohranenija through a body of the person it is possible to carry to soft ways. Here during the moment of jerk all safeguarding system springs and will partially amortize jerk. ohranenija we carry to rigid ways ohranenie through a prominence(mamelon), through ledorub and through a carbine on a hook. Amortization of jerk at these ways is carried out only due to stravlivanija cords or by means of special dampers.

Ohranenie through a prominence(mamelon) (fig. 15). The prominence(mamelon) should be equal and inclined to a rock. Acute edges of a prominence(mamelon) need to be brought down a hammer or to do a chamfer(groove). On acute to edge of a prominence(mamelon) the cord can be cut from jerk. During the moment of jerk it is necessary to pit and strong to press a cord. Safeguarding costs(stands) the face to a prominence(mamelon) and thus should see safeguarded. It is very reliable and stable way ohranenija.
ohranenie through a prominence(mamelon)
Fig. 15. Ohranenie through a prominence(mamelon).

Ohranenie through ledorub (fig. 16). On firnovyh and snow slopes the best way ohranenija is ohranenie through ledorub. By strong impact it is exhausted in a slope on the head ledorub with a light(mild) inclination to a slope. A bill will turn to a slope. If there was a dense firn ledorub it is hammered by several impacts with turns ledoruba that was to pull out lighter it(him) for following impact. At a leaky snow the place zabivanija ledoruba needs to be stamped preliminary.

The cord passes(takes place) for ledorubom to safeguarded. On a snow slope safeguarding holds one arm(hand) ledorub, and other arm(hand) gives out a cord safeguarded or holds ledorub with a knee then its(his) both arms(hand) are free. On dense firn it is possible to hold a cord two arms(hand) on both sides ledoruba. If safeguarded goes zigzags or it is direct upwards it is necessary to change direction accordingly a cord in the necessary side that in case of fall safeguarded the cord has not appeared from below ledoruba.
ohranenie through ledorub
Рис.16. Ohranenie through ledorub.

Ohranenie through a hook. Ohranenie through a carbine hanging on a hook, - the most reliable ohranenie. At ohranenii on rocks the greater(big) role is played with correctly chosen place for ohranenija and correct zabivka a hook. The hook is hammered in a direction to safeguarded on a level which depends on the one whom safeguard: bottom, upper or traversirujushchego the climber. The hook is driven in approximately in one meter from safeguarding.

Ohranenie through a hook represents a combination with ohraneniem through a brachium as the cord going from a hook, undertakes in the safeguarding same way, as well as at ohranenii through a brachium. The hook is hammered into clefts(rima) and in treshchinki rocks. Before to drive in a hook, by survey and a percussion of a hammer are convinced that a rock really monolitna. The sound should be pure(clean), sonorously clinking. If the sound of the deaf person slightly jingling zakolachivat the hook is impossible.

The hook zakolachivajut equal, direct impacts of a hammer which put(render) so that a hook in regular intervals entered into a crack. Zakolachivajut it(him) ushkom from top to bottom under a small angle and up to most ushka then the head frames an emphasis and resists vyskakivaniju (fig. 17). If the hook, having entered into a crack half, does not enter further, it(he) needs to be taken out and driven in again in other place. In general quite pertinently corrected: it is better to hammer in a short hook up to ushka, than long half. A hook hammered into a vertical crack of uniform width, it is necessary to check up impacts from above on a rib of a hook: whether he rotates about the axis, differently from jerk he will accept the position specified in a drawing 17-А, and can take off outside.
ohranenie through a hook
Fig. 17. Ohranenie through a hook: And-hook it is hammered incorrectly, B-it is hammered better, In-is hammered good.

To everyone treshchinke or clefts(rima) it is necessary to select a hook corresponding(meeting) on the sizes. At insertion the hook can enter into a crack at once on third and then zakolachivaetsja up to ushka. If he enters into a crack very quickly, from two-three impacts, it means, that the crack is wide also a hook can easily jump out. It is necessary to take out it(him) and to pick up thicker. Reliability of the driven in hook is checked on hearing: well hammered hook as speak, "sings", and badly hammered jingles. For samoohranenija safeguarding zakolachivaet for itself a special hook. The hook by shaking impacts on a rib is pulled out, and then pulled out by jerk; it is possible to apply a chain of two carbines with krjuchjami.

On ushko or on a ring of a hook the carbine in which the cord is latched puts on. On rocks use oval carbines. The carbine is hung so that the latch was outside from a rock and opened below. It is necessary to watch(keep up), that the cord was not twisted around of a carbine, and passed(took place) directly and moved smoothly.

At vytaskivanii its(his) ice hook it is possible to pull out after rocking by a bill ledoruba under which the hammer (a lever way) is enclosed(laid). At ohranenii on an ice, before zakolachivaniem a hook, a hammer beat off melted crust of an ice up to the dense basis and beat out a platform or the small cavity. The hook is hammered in regular intervals and is unceasing light(mild) impacts of a hammer with a light(mild) inclination up. A hook zakolachivaetsja up to a ring. At zakolachivanii a hook the ice from pressure is distributed and melts. The formed water fills all furrows and chamfers(grooves) on a hook and, freezing, strongly covers a hook, not giving(allowing) him to get out. During ohranenija it is necessary to check up some times a hook as he can be loosened. If the ice around of a hook has melted, it is necessary to take out a hook and to hammer in it(him) into other place. Term of using the hammered ice hook is defined(determined) by time of day and temperature of air. It is impossible to leave krjuchja in an ice to use them at draining off.
samoohranenie

At all ways described here safeguarding will organize for itself samoohranenie, as a rule, through krjuchja or ledorub. The purpose samoohranenija - to avoid failure safeguarding.

On rocks and on an ice samoohranenie goes through a hook. The hook is hammered in the side opposite to a direction of prospective jerk. If safeguarding costs(stands) a back to a rock and the hook of the core ohranenija is hammered at it(him) on the right the hook samoohranenija is hammered at the left. In a hook the carbine is latched, and the cord on which it is adhered itself safeguarding (fig. 17-18) is attached to it(him;them) for a small eyelet from unit of a porter.
The self-insurance through ledorub
Fig. 19. Ohranenie a turn a brachium on a snow slope with samoohraneniem through ledorub.
The self-insurance through a hook
Fig. 18. Ohranenie on an ice slope through a hook with samoohraneniem. And-@-line a slope, In-position correctly hammered a hook.

At ohranenii through a hook a cord besides undertakes through a brachium.

samoohranenie, especially on dense firn, it is carried out through ledorub (fig. 19). Ledorub it is exhausted in a slope, and the loop going from safeguarding is put on it(him). At ohranenii the climber, traversirujushchego the slope under an angle, ledorub for samoohranenija should be hammered in a direction to rising. Then in case of fall jerk will be referred directly downwards, and samoohranenie, certainly, will detain safeguarding.

Safeguarding should remember always, that he preserves a life of comrade. Having bound by a cord, climbers bind for the period of a way and the lives. If the life of comrade is entrusted to you,-justify this trust! Be vigilant, closely(attentively) choose and examine a place from which you will safeguard comrade. Do not lean(base) on unreliable prominences(mamelon), not zakolachivaj in them krjuchja. Do not distract examining of mountains or conversations when it is entrusted to you ohranenie comrade. Be concentrated. In regular intervals choose or give out a cord, each detention irritates rising. Closely(attentively) listen to signals safeguarded. During the moment of jerk be not lost, etch it is how much necessary a cord and more strong clip it(her). Having stopped fall, fix a cord for prominences(mamelon), for ledorub or for a hook and establish(install) communication(connection) with fallen.

If the help is necessary to him, drain off to it(him;them) and render it(her). Take all the measures specified in the chapter(head) “ Saving work ”.

That it is reliable to safeguard, it is necessary to test practically on itself force of jerk. Only in practice it is possible to learn to pit a cord correctly. It is necessary to train ohranenie. For this purpose on a soft grassy slope at rocks make artificial fall with ohraneniem under direction of the instructor or throw safeguarded churku.

The climber should to learn organize independently ohranenie and correctly to apply this or that way.

L. GUTMAN, WITH. HODAKEVICH, AND. ANTONOVICH. TECHNICS(TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT) OF MOUNTANEERING
The MANUAL FOR BEGINNING(STARTING) CLIMBERS

It is approved by section of mountaneering of All-Union committee on affairs of physical culture, and sports at SNK SojuzaSSR

The STATE PUBLISHING HOUSE “ PHYSICAL CULTURE and sports ” Moscow 1939